The autozone one is good. I went with the everstart (I think) from Walmart. Whatever the better level store brand was. About $75 installed, and top rated recently by consumer reports.
THe CCA, etc. on the OEM is borderline. I think the OEM was ~430, and the replacement was ~750-800.
I don't know if I properly labled my problem. Very occasionally when I brake the engine rpm's go up and the car wants to surge forward. It occured in a parking lot when I was going slowly and also when braking for a signal from 40 mph. The solution is to release the brake and reapply pressure quickly, or just press the brake harder if a car is in front of me. Anyone have a similar probem? If so, how was it resolved? Thanks for any replies. Ralph
I had the battery replaced under warranty at Walmart last fall. The Everstart MaXX only lasted 8 years instead of 9 for the warranty (great!!!). The battery still worked well but the starter didn't sound right sometimes. Walmart's test said it was going out.
But I made a big deal of changing it myself at home to keep power connected to maintain settings. All of a sudden they decided they had to change it because it was a warranty replacement--but they had the setup to keep power to the car while they replaced it. They used small clamp cables like jumper cables to connect the terminals on the old battery while they switched the new battery into the holder.
I'd recommend the yellow Maxx batteries from Walmart and require them to maintain your settings. Lots cheaper than a dealer and a better battery I'd suggest (Johnson Controls IIRC).
I just replaced my tires, old ones worn and small bulge in the sidewall on one, and the service adviser at Tires Plus told me that my transmission fluid and I can only assume coolant have gone brown, there are arrows pointing I think to both, and also that my serpentine belt was cracked. He said there were five cracks per inch, whatever that means.
Anyway, I got estimates from him for the above mentioned services and they are as follows:
Trans Flush - Versa Trans 164.99 He put in the parts list EA63 Transmission fluid service kit and up to 15 qts of fluid Serpentine Belt 91.99 Along with Battery replacement 118.98
All told with tax and labor comes out to 375.96. What do you all think. I know every recommends not having the tranny flushed so I'm just trying to get opinions. Do you think I'd fair better at the dealer? Mine only goes based off of the manual posted on the Honda website.
P.S. If it makes any difference I'm currently at 59,286 miles. Thanks for any replies.
I just got my quote from the dealer. How does this sound, The 60k service would run $309.98 and would include the transmission fluid change, engine air filter, cabin filter, tire rotation, brake inspection, oil change, and full vehicle inspection.
If do any of your own work most of that is pretty easy to do on your own. Changing the tranny fluid might be tough. I would recommend if you have someplace do that for you that you pay extra to have the make a drain bolt for the Tranny Oil pan. Dealers may not do it but a tranny shop will.
Also, I am just under 60K, but I think you are supposed to wait until the MM (Maintenance Minder) tells you it is time to change the tranny fluid.
Good luck either way! Price sounds reasonable to me for everything they are doing. As long as that includes all the parts and disposal fees, if any.
I have an 03 and was informed when I had my tires replaced that the fluid was going brown. I just want to get it done, especially since I'm not mechanically inclined at all. I was also told that my serpentine belt was getting ready for replacement.
I'm going to bring in my list of stuff that was checked to see if I can pair down my bill. I don't need the air filter done, was told that that was still okay. I'm figuring I'll do now since I'm getting my tax money.
Thank you for your feedback. Especially since Tires Plus wanted to do a tranny flush and I've heard flushes are a no-no.
To me tranny flushes are still debatable. It should be done right. But I am pretty sure they were just trying to sell you a service you don;t need. If you know you are not mechanically inclined they can tell and they prey on that.
+1 Bump on the 120K for the Tranny Fluid change ( I have an I4 Manual).
Also, if you are not mechanically inclined you should go to a few different shops. It may be hard to find but great mechanics are out there who will take care of you. It is usually a family owned or single owner shop. Chain shops and dealers have to please shareholders and are pushed to sell as much as possible.
I guarantee you can change the cabin filter yourself. It literally take under 2 minutes. Requires you to move one attachment arm (which is a pop-out), grab the filter pull it out and slide a new one in. If you can put in a DVD you can change the cabin filter.
Anyway, take each recommended service to a different spot until you find someone you trust. You will know when you find one. My guy gives me free services fairly regularly. Cheap services, but free. he knows that when something big comes up I will go to him. That is what good mechanics bank on. They don;t have to worry about shafting people to pay the bills. they take care of the small stuff, cheaply and expect that you will return and pay of the big stuff when it happens.
I am trying to locate some posts regarding Engine Oil and OCI's.
The section i am looking on was related to OCI frequency and being too soon. Something about particles in the oil that can damage the engine but are eventually captured by the filter or broken down through normal wear.
I am also looking for info regarding factory break-in oil and how it's composition differs from "normal" oil that one would use in a change.
Thank you all for your input. I am planning to do the tranny because when I checked it a few months ago it was turning on me and I drive pretty rough most of the time. I'm not going to do the filters since I've done the engine filter within the last 6 months and am just looking for the cabin. I'm going in for my next oil change soon and am going to see how much I can shave off for everything that doesn't need to be done.
I know of a good guy close to me who is a former coworkers good friend. I'm thinking I might go to CarX and see what they think.
Part of it is because I have an extended warranty and I want to keep it intact. Don't want to skip required maintenance.
This seemed like the most appropriate forum to post my question...
I can't find an easy tool to compare different trim levels of the '07 Accord side-by-side. In particular, I'd like to know the specific differences between the '07 Accord LX V6 Sedan and the '07 Accord EX V6 Sedan.
Here are the differences that I'm already aware of:
You might try the search feature either in this specific discussion or at the Accord group level, since not all oil posts for this generation end up in this topic.
You might also find some helpful information in the oil topics over on our Maintenance & Repair board. You can use the search feature there, too.
I am having this problem with '07 Accord Coupe. Going back today for a second look at the local dealer. Last time around, the mechanic tightened a bolt, but I forgot to ask specifically on which part. The sound didn't occur for the rest of that day, but as soon as I took it out the next morning it was rat-a-tat-ing again.
Is it coming from one of the front wheel wells? The only reason I ask is because I had a rattle coming from my passenger wheel well on my 95 Accord Sedan. It ended up being a bushing on the stabilizer bar, I believe. I remember it was a bushing that gave out, not sure whether it was the stabilizer bar or just what it was.
ok, long post here.. but I know this info would be helpful to me so I'd like to think it's helpful to others.
I started talking a while back about getting the major 110k and 120k services done: changing the coolant, Spark plugs, changing transmission fluid, inspecting the valve clearance, air filter, and cabin air filter. I thought I'd give a breakdown of what I did to help out anyone approaching this mileage with their Accord. The post I'm replying to has the breakdown of what I did for parts - I had the prices matched at my local Honda Dealer in Laurel, MD. Here's a copy and pasta again of what I got and what I paid:
a) Air Filter / Genuine Factory Honda Accord engine air filter - $20.49 - bought two of these b) Micron Air brand Pollen Filter - Also called A/C or Cabin filters. Fits Years 2003-2005, for other years - $15.95 - bought two of these too c) Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF-Z1 - $6.11 - bought 5 of these d) Genuine Factory Honda long life antifreeze/coolant type2 - 1 Gallon Container 50/50 prediluted. - $11.73 - bought 2 of these
Final price - $136.20
I got four of the the NGK Laser Iridium 1ZFR6K11 (stock no. 6994) spark plugs for $9.99 each (discussed in more detail in this post).
The air filter and cabin air filter I was planning to do myself. The air filter is done - did this w/ my little brother's friend. I pasted him some of the posts starting with this one by Tallman1. I need to figure out how exactly to do cabin air filter now.
Lastly, after shopping around with my local dealers, the best price I found to do pretty much labor only (a valve gasket was a part that was involved) was Sport Honda in Silver Spring. The prices for each item were as follows:
- Transmission Service - labor only $41.60 - the fluid exchange that you read about is only to address a certain condition - if you have that condition we will address it, but the $41.60 will NOT include a flush 2) Engine Coolant replacement - labor only $62.40 3) Replace spark plugs $104.00 4) Valve Adjustment $ 156.00 + $14.00 for gasket Final price I paid: $378.52
For reference, had I not had my own parts, the services would have been as follows:
Transmission Fluid Replacement - fluid $36.00 washer $4.00 - Labor $52.00 - our present special $79.95 (a savings of about $12.00) the fluid replacement consists of about 3 quarts... the procedure that you are quoting - 'three successive flushes w/ roadtest' is only done if there is a specific problem with the transmission fluid being burnt -Honda does not recommend a flush of the system unless there is an actual problem - If in fact this procedure was needed the price would be $249.95 - I would be suprised indeed if it turned out to be necessary.
Spark plugs - Honda platinum $100.00 regular installation $104.00 /$204.00 - there is a si Valve Adjustment - Honda Valve cover gasket $14.00 + labor charge of $156. - when done together - special price is $349.95 - As it is necessary to remove the valve cover to inspect the adjustment there is no seperate charge for the inspection Honda engine coolant for your vehicle $22.00 + labor $72.80 - Special $86.95
Last, Honda gave me a courtesy inspection which I think ended up covering all the items that should be inspected at 120k (and 110k?) as per the manual/ownerlink. I took a little time to compare what was covered in the inspection and try and match to what should have been done:
- Check front and rear brake wear -- We discussed brakes so I believe this was done
- Check parking brake adjustment -- I see the green marked for "parking brake" so I assume this is ok?
- Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots -- I see green check mark by drive shafts boots/constant velocity boots & bands so.. ok?
- Inspect suspension components -- green check mark by shock absorbers/struts/suspension.. so, ok?
- Inspect driveshaft boots -- see green marked for drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots & bands
- Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS) --see green for brakes lines/hoses/parking brake cable so believe it's ok.
- Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids -- see green AND red marked here - the choices are oil/coolant/power steering/brake fluid/windshield washer/automatic transmission I think the red is for the brake fluid, other fluids are ok?
- Inspect exhaust system# -- green check mark by exhaust system
- Inspect fuel lines and connections# -- this one I don't see.
All in all, it seems like I had almost everything in the 120k service done by the dealer. I wonder how much it would have cost had I just walked into the dealership and said "I need a 120k service - how much?"
I am wondering how much it would have cost if you did everything yourself. All of those items are relatively easy to do. Maybe the Valve Inspection/Adjustment and TF exchange would be a moderate job for a home mechanic to do.
When I get there I plan to do all of that myself. The one job I will probably farm out is the TF exchange. The reason for this is I will want a real drain bolt installed. That way I can do it myself the next time it is required. It can be very messy to attempt TF changes if you do not have a lift. I put my car up on 4 Jack Stands and I am imagining it to be to messy for me to do in my garage.
But if you don't do your own work. Labor at $514.12 and Parts at 136.20, for a total of $650.32 seems ok. I looked up the first STEALERSHIP in my area and found a special covering the same services and parts for $349.31. http://www.hondamissionvalley.com/auto-repair-specials.aspx It did not include the coolant change, but did include tire rotation and a car wash. That price seems to be the same as your parts cost (granted you did buy a couple extra parts).
Overall if you are not looking for a headache then for the piece of mind I think you got a fair price. It may not be the cheapest ever found but it seems like a moderate price. I agree that you would pay more if you did not bring in your own parts. It seems to me that place is living up to the STEALERSHIP moniker.
I advice anyone to begin to learn how to handle their own service. You will save literally thousands or dollars per vehilce over you life even compared to someone who is a professional haggler/penny pincher. And you get the staisfaction of knowing every aspect of your car and when ou should actually be doing something to it, instead of listening to the recommendations of a Service Advisor.
Hope I didn't rain on your parade. I do think you did fairly well with those prices. It could have been much worse or a little better. To me it just reinforced my desire/need to handle my own work. BTW, I am a home taught mechanic, I know that isnt' saying much, but over the years I have learned a lot and it has saved me thousands of dollars on auto and motorcycle service.
well, the long term goal is to learn how to do more and more of my maintenance items. Where I am right now, I couldn't have really done anything on my own so I'm not beating myself up for that. I'm trying to be really active on properly maintaining not just the 2004 Accord I4 I discussed, but also my wife's 2007 Accord I4, my dad's 2007 CR-V, and my new car - a 2008 Lexus IS 350.
I'm sure there's a way to do a little better, but there's only so much more time I could have spent trying to look to save the next dollar. You had given a summary of:
"Labor at $514.12 and Parts at 136.20, for a total of $650.32"
My parts were at $136 for the coolant, transmission fluid, air filter, and cabin air filter. My spark plugs were at $40. and labor was at $378 so the total of all this is what I paid for everything.
But yeah, looking at that $349 major service promotion.. Seems the runaround I did to save money doesn't seem too far from what's covered in here. I only do big maintenance things like this so often in the car so I'm not upset.
I recently cleaned my blades with alcohol because I remember this post and it cleaned off so much black garbage it wasn't funny. They definitely work better almost like new, they're only a month and a half old.
I also recently had problems on my 2007 Accord Ex-L. Rear brake pads were shot at 25K miles, dug into the rotors. Initially the service manager at the dealership was willing to cover rotors, but not the pads or labor!? I have never had a problem like this before with any other brands of cars. Absolutely unacceptable, in my opinion; especially for a Honda. I was not surprised to find others from this forum who have been experiencing this problem. We should continue with documentation. It's a bummer to think that this is going to happen again to me, all the while affecting my gas mileage at the same time. I am seriously rethinking ever buying a Honda again. Oh yeah, after arguing my case, the dealership decided (reluctantly) to cover service and parts under a "good will" policy. They need to officially recall and address the problem.
Just make sure after you use the alcohol swabs on the wiper blades is to spray some Windex on a paper towel and wipe the blades down again, Sometimes to much alcohol on the blades will dry the rubber up quicker and within a few months when it rains you will start to see streaking on your windows when it rains. What also works well and is a little safer is window washer fluid, drench a papper towel and then clean your blades off, you can also use new coffee filters there actually great for cleaning glass they never leave any lint behind.
I was wondering if there was a way to disable the "feature" that times out on the door locks if I don't get there fast enough. When I unlock my doors, if I don't get there in time it re-locks them. I have found this "feature" to annoying as all get out and would like to disable it. I didn't see any information in the manual about it and I was wondering if it was something I could do myself or had to go to a dealer (either to be reprogrammed or traded in). 2007 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl/5spd manual Thanks for any input.
Sorry, as far as I know, all Hondas with keyless entry do this, including our most recent Hondas including a 2000 Odyssey EX, 03,05,and 06 Accord EX, and a 2007 Civic EX.
Sorry, as far as I know, all Hondas with keyless entry do this, including our most recent Hondas including a 2000 Odyssey EX, 03,05,and 06 Accord EX, and a 2007 Civic EX.
It's not programmable as far as I know.
Wow, thats just miserable, thanks for letting me know. I will just it to the list. Its hard to believe the same company that gave us the original Civic SI and CRX is like this now.
Eh, I take that back, the '07 isn't a bad car, just a bad choice for me.
Miserable? Not to me. I work at a hospital in a rough part of town. I have to get things out of my trunk all the time (I'm a courier for the hospital from time to time) and hit the lock or unlock button once in a while when i'm trying to get the trunk button (my hands are full of stuff so I can't see what I'm doing). I always lock it back manually, and even make it honk to be sure, but I don't know how many times I've done it when I DIDN'T know I did it, and my car locked back for me.
Lemme ask ya, not trying to be smart here, but just how much time does it take you to get to the car when you hit unlock? I don't unlock the car until I'm, well, about to get in it. I'm not seeing the big problem; I see it as a security feature. I'd appreciate some insight into your thinking!
Lemme ask ya, not trying to be smart here, but just how much time does it take you to get to the car when you hit unlock? I don't unlock the car until I'm, well, about to get in it. I'm not seeing the big problem; I see it as a security feature. I'd appreciate some insight into your thinking!
Add weather and a small child. The RKE for our other vehicle has more than 3' of range so I can actually unlock the car before picking up the 22 month old and the diaper bag and the gloves/hat/jacket and whatever I bought, walk out to the car, open the hatch and put the stuff down, then go open the back door and put the lil guy in his car seat.
With the Honda, I have to put the kid and the stuff down, get the key fob out of my pocket, open the trunk, put everything in the trunk, get the key fob, unlock the door, open the door and put the kid in his seat. It is much more of a pain from November through March/April when the white stuff falls from the sky and or its just uncomfortably cold, or the rest of the year on the days its raining.
Also, the car is in the garage at night. Every time I go out there to get something out of the other car, I just go get it. With the Honda, I have to go to the kitchen and get the keys and bring them with me, since if I just hit the unlock button from the kitchen, the car probably wouldn't hear it anyway, and if it did, it would be locked again by the time I get out there.
When I got that car, I was actually excited because I never had a car with RKE before. Unfortunately, its really not "remotely" helpful the majority of the time.
Oh and the window roll down feature is nice, but about half the time I activated just trying to get all 4 doors to unlock and getting them to stay unlocked until we all get in, so I get a nice wet snowy seat too. :sick:
I'm glad there are use cases that seem to work for other people, like I said, its not a bad car, just a bad choice for me.
I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX, and I can't get my trunk to open using my key thob. I can hear it actuate but it never opens, it works fine with the manual release. Any thoughts?
The same thing happened to me last August on my 2006 Accord EX. I took my car back to the dealer to have it repaired. I retrieved my invoice: It was a "faulty trunk latch assembly." A new trunk latch assembly was installed. My car was still under warranty at that time, so I can't give you an idea of cost.
Just bought 2006 EX. Only a couple complaints. Yup, trunk won't open with remote except occasionally with multiple attempts. At least I know I'm not crazy. I can live with it, not worth expense of a repair . . . yet.
Heh-heh.... I remember when I bought my 06 Accord I had the same problem because I didn't realize one needed to hold the trunk button down longer than you do for the door. Lucky for me I figured it out before I took it back to the dealer.
I have a 2007 Accord coupe and found a little way to bypass the automatic door lock feature. I haven't tried it overnight so I don't know how long the doors will stay unlocked, but I know I can keep the doors unlocked for at least 15 minutes (that's how long I tested it before I got bored, locked the car, and went back in my house). The thing is, you have to be near the car to do this otherwise the car will lock its doors in 30 seconds or so.
First, press the unlock button twice to unlock all of your doors and then open just the drivers side door and shut it. When I did this, the doors would stay unlocked. I could then open the passenger's door or the trunk, do whatever needs to be done, and the car won't lock its doors on me until the engine is started or until I lock the doors with the keyfob.
Just wondering if anyone ever get this message on their Accords?
My coupe has had the "check fuel cap" message appear at least 6 times since I bought it new 2 years ago. Everytime I bring the car to the dealership, the message mysteriously disappears as if nothing is wrong.
I always tighten my gas cap 10 clicks, so I know the cap isn't loose. And the problem usually happens when the weather changes from cold to warm.
The dealership tested the gas cap and tells me that everything checks out ok, so they won't replace the gas cap under warranty, and my warranty will run out next March, so I want the problem fixed while the car is still under warranty.
Any ideas?
By the way, the "Check fuel cap" message appeared yesterday afternoon and I didn't touch the fuel cap at all. I was planning to take the car to the dealership this afternoon, but as soon as I started up the car to go to the dealership today, the message was gone. How aggravating!
What year is your car? For 2003-2005, 3 clicks is sufficient to close off the tank. Starting in 06, one click should do it. Ten may be tearing the thing up, I don't know.
It's a 2007 Accord coupe with a 4 cylinder engine. Automatic tranny. I've been told that you can't overtighten the fuel cap because it just clicks after you tighten it enough.
I've never had problems like this with my old 2003 Civic sedan, or my 2001 Pontiac Firebird.
It makes me wonder if it's a computer problem or a faulty fuel cap. :confuse:
The message is not actually related to the fuel cap. The car checks the evaporatvie fuel system (or whatever the right term for that is), essentially testing for vapor leaks. But, the most common reason for that is a loose fuel cap. So that is the 1st thing to check.
Since it happens to you repeatedly, without having touched the gas cap, and they tested it, the problem could be elsewhere. There could be a vapor leak elsewhere in the fuel system, or just as likely, a fualty (or oversensitive) sensor tripping the light.
It's under warranty. Let the dealership do the troubleshooting. They can give you a free loaner and start the car themselves several times until they get the message. They are putting the job of troubleshooting the problem onto you. It's under warranty and something's not right.
Hi, my friend drove my car yesterday and he said my idle seemed a bit low. Is 750 at a dead stop too low and is something that I should have adjusted? Thanks for your help.
Also he said that if I run a tank of Premium per month it would clean out excess carbon and reduce the amount gas consumed over the long run.
Hello folks, anyone have issues with Rust on a 03 Accord EX-L?
I recently noticed rust on one side of the rear passenger window (the pillar.) Its extremely annoying and the dealer will not repair it under warranty (extended.)
they are charging $300 + to replace the part. Anyone have any ideas? Sanding and re-painting will only fix the issue until rust re-appears after a year...
It's not the octane, that cleans the fuel system. It's the detergents. Use a high detergent gas (top tier), or use "Techron" occasionally, with the cheap stuff. The detergents are usually the same, regardless of octane rating. Premium has no more detergent than regular. I always try to use the same brand and octane. If your car doesn't run well on a certain brand, try another brand, till you find the one that works best, and stick with it. I use Texaco regular, because it's "Top Tier", and because I can usually find one wherever I go.
Thanks for the input. I usually buy gas from SA so I'm guessing that's about as Top Tier as you can get. I might run another can of seafoam soon.
I run seafoam once in a while. My friend said to run some through the crank case, but to wait until the day or two before my next oil change. He said any sooner could mess up the oil and cause thermal breakdown. Does that make sense. Or can I run a can for the entire change interval, 4-5k miles?
>Also he said that if I run a tank of Premium per month it would clean out excess carbon and reduce the amount gas consumed over the long run.
I'd suggest the 20 oz size Techron 2- 3 times per year. The premium fuels tend to have more detergents, however they tend to leave more deposits so it must be a tradeoff. The Top Tier is a marketing thing; other brands have as much and as suitable detergent packages as those brands. They just don't join in the marketing group.
There's no problem. I've just been told a can of seafoam once in a while will keep things Kosher. Of course my dad was telling me this. I'm always trying to keep up with my car. I don't want something to go wrong and I want to get good mileage. I'm never sure if I'm doing something unnecessarily or not, which is why I linger on the board.
Comments
THe CCA, etc. on the OEM is borderline. I think the OEM was ~430, and the replacement was ~750-800.
Deal one is overpriced for what you get.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Anyone have a similar probem? If so, how was it resolved? Thanks for any replies. Ralph
Works fine with the manual release, but every time I try to use the key-thob I hear it actuate but it never opens. Thoughts?
But I made a big deal of changing it myself at home to keep power connected to maintain settings. All of a sudden they decided they had to change it because it was a warranty replacement--but they had the setup to keep power to the car while they replaced it. They used small clamp cables like jumper cables to connect the terminals on the old battery while they switched the new battery into the holder.
I'd recommend the yellow Maxx batteries from Walmart and require them to maintain your settings. Lots cheaper than a dealer and a better battery I'd suggest (Johnson Controls IIRC).
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I just replaced my tires, old ones worn and small bulge in the sidewall on one, and the service adviser at Tires Plus told me that my transmission fluid and I can only assume coolant have gone brown, there are arrows pointing I think to both, and also that my serpentine belt was cracked. He said there were five cracks per inch, whatever that means.
Anyway, I got estimates from him for the above mentioned services and they are as follows:
Trans Flush - Versa Trans 164.99
He put in the parts list EA63 Transmission fluid service kit and up to 15 qts of fluid
Serpentine Belt 91.99
Along with Battery replacement 118.98
All told with tax and labor comes out to 375.96. What do you all think. I know every recommends not having the tranny flushed so I'm just trying to get opinions. Do you think I'd fair better at the dealer? Mine only goes based off of the manual posted on the Honda website.
P.S. If it makes any difference I'm currently at 59,286 miles. Thanks for any replies.
thanx
Also, I am just under 60K, but I think you are supposed to wait until the MM (Maintenance Minder) tells you it is time to change the tranny fluid.
Good luck either way! Price sounds reasonable to me for everything they are doing. As long as that includes all the parts and disposal fees, if any.
I'm going to bring in my list of stuff that was checked to see if I can pair down my bill. I don't need the air filter done, was told that that was still okay. I'm figuring I'll do now since I'm getting my tax money.
Thank you for your feedback. Especially since Tires Plus wanted to do a tranny flush and I've heard flushes are a no-no.
Owner's manual for my 6M indicates the two air filters(cabin air plus engine) in addition to oil filter/oil change + tire ro.......
The 6M has a 120k service (lubricant changeout) interval. Autos may differ.
You can easily do the cabin air.....there's a DIY around here somewhere. Honda dealer charged me for the engine air filter only: zero labor.
The whole 60k was about 75 bucks. Rotation free by my tire guy (wants to sell me some MXV4 Michelins soon!!)
all the best, ez...
+1 Bump on the 120K for the Tranny Fluid change ( I have an I4 Manual).
Also, if you are not mechanically inclined you should go to a few different shops. It may be hard to find but great mechanics are out there who will take care of you. It is usually a family owned or single owner shop. Chain shops and dealers have to please shareholders and are pushed to sell as much as possible.
I guarantee you can change the cabin filter yourself. It literally take under 2 minutes. Requires you to move one attachment arm (which is a pop-out), grab the filter pull it out and slide a new one in. If you can put in a DVD you can change the cabin filter.
Anyway, take each recommended service to a different spot until you find someone you trust. You will know when you find one. My guy gives me free services fairly regularly. Cheap services, but free. he knows that when something big comes up I will go to him. That is what good mechanics bank on. They don;t have to worry about shafting people to pay the bills. they take care of the small stuff, cheaply and expect that you will return and pay of the big stuff when it happens.
Good Luck!!!
The section i am looking on was related to OCI frequency and being too soon. Something about particles in the oil that can damage the engine but are eventually captured by the filter or broken down through normal wear.
I am also looking for info regarding factory break-in oil and how it's composition differs from "normal" oil that one would use in a change.
Please help!!!
And Thanks in Advance for any help.
I know of a good guy close to me who is a former coworkers good friend. I'm thinking I might go to CarX and see what they think.
Part of it is because I have an extended warranty and I want to keep it intact. Don't want to skip required maintenance.
Thank you for your continued input.
I can't find an easy tool to compare different trim levels of the '07 Accord side-by-side. In particular, I'd like to know the specific differences between the '07 Accord LX V6 Sedan and the '07 Accord EX V6 Sedan.
Here are the differences that I'm already aware of:
Interior- LX: Cloth Seats EX: Heated, Leather Seats
HVAC- LX: Manual EX: Automatic Dual-Zone Climate Control
Stereo- ?????
EX- HomeLink standard; Navigation optional
Any other differences that I'm missing?
Thanks for any help you folks can offer!
http://automobiles.honda.com/certified-used/2007/accord-sedan/specifications.asp- x
You might also find some helpful information in the oil topics over on our Maintenance & Repair board. You can use the search feature there, too.
Hope this is helpful!
I started talking a while back about getting the major 110k and 120k services done: changing the coolant, Spark plugs, changing transmission fluid, inspecting the valve clearance, air filter, and cabin air filter. I thought I'd give a breakdown of what I did to help out anyone approaching this mileage with their Accord. The post I'm replying to has the breakdown of what I did for parts - I had the prices matched at my local Honda Dealer in Laurel, MD. Here's a copy and pasta again of what I got and what I paid:
a) Air Filter / Genuine Factory Honda Accord engine air filter - $20.49
- bought two of these
b) Micron Air brand Pollen Filter - Also called A/C or Cabin filters.
Fits Years 2003-2005, for other years - $15.95
- bought two of these too
c) Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF-Z1 - $6.11
- bought 5 of these
d) Genuine Factory Honda long life antifreeze/coolant type2 - 1 Gallon Container 50/50 prediluted. - $11.73
- bought 2 of these
Final price - $136.20
I got four of the the NGK Laser Iridium 1ZFR6K11 (stock no. 6994) spark plugs for $9.99 each (discussed in more detail in this post).
The air filter and cabin air filter I was planning to do myself. The air filter is done - did this w/ my little brother's friend. I pasted him some of the posts starting with this one by Tallman1. I need to figure out how exactly to do cabin air filter now.
Lastly, after shopping around with my local dealers, the best price I found to do pretty much labor only (a valve gasket was a part that was involved) was Sport Honda in Silver Spring. The prices for each item were as follows:
- Transmission Service - labor only $41.60 - the fluid exchange that you read about is only to address a certain condition - if you have that condition we will address it, but the $41.60 will NOT include a flush
2) Engine Coolant replacement - labor only $62.40
3) Replace spark plugs $104.00
4) Valve Adjustment $ 156.00 + $14.00 for gasket
Final price I paid: $378.52
For reference, had I not had my own parts, the services would have been as follows:
Transmission Fluid Replacement - fluid $36.00 washer $4.00 - Labor $52.00 - our present special $79.95 (a savings of about $12.00) the fluid replacement consists of about 3 quarts... the procedure that you are quoting - 'three successive flushes w/ roadtest' is only done if there is a specific problem with the transmission fluid being burnt -Honda does not recommend a flush of the system unless there is an actual problem - If in fact this procedure was needed the price would be $249.95 - I would be suprised indeed if it turned out to be necessary.
Spark plugs - Honda platinum $100.00 regular installation $104.00 /$204.00 - there is a si Valve Adjustment - Honda Valve cover gasket $14.00 + labor charge of $156. - when done together - special price is $349.95 - As it is necessary to remove the valve cover to inspect the adjustment there is no seperate charge for the inspection Honda engine coolant for your vehicle $22.00 + labor $72.80 - Special $86.95
Last, Honda gave me a courtesy inspection which I think ended up covering all the items that should be inspected at 120k (and 110k?) as per the manual/ownerlink. I took a little time to compare what was covered in the inspection and try and match to what should have been done:
- Check front and rear brake wear
-- We discussed brakes so I believe this was done
- Check parking brake adjustment
-- I see the green marked for "parking brake" so I assume this is ok?
- Inspect tie-rod ends, steering gearbox, and boots
-- I see green check mark by drive shafts boots/constant velocity boots &
bands so.. ok?
- Inspect suspension components
-- green check mark by shock absorbers/struts/suspension.. so, ok?
- Inspect driveshaft boots
-- see green marked for drive shaft boots/constant velocity boots & bands
- Inspect brake hoses and lines (including ABS)
--see green for brakes lines/hoses/parking brake cable so believe it's ok.
- Inspect all fluid levels and condition of fluids
-- see green AND red marked here - the choices are oil/coolant/power
steering/brake fluid/windshield washer/automatic transmission I think the
red is for the brake fluid, other fluids are ok?
- Inspect exhaust system#
-- green check mark by exhaust system
- Inspect fuel lines and connections#
-- this one I don't see.
All in all, it seems like I had almost everything in the 120k service done by the dealer. I wonder how much it would have cost had I just walked into the dealership and said "I need a 120k service - how much?"
When I get there I plan to do all of that myself. The one job I will probably farm out is the TF exchange. The reason for this is I will want a real drain bolt installed. That way I can do it myself the next time it is required. It can be very messy to attempt TF changes if you do not have a lift. I put my car up on 4 Jack Stands and I am imagining it to be to messy for me to do in my garage.
But if you don't do your own work. Labor at $514.12 and Parts at 136.20, for a total of $650.32 seems ok. I looked up the first STEALERSHIP in my area and found a special covering the same services and parts for $349.31. http://www.hondamissionvalley.com/auto-repair-specials.aspx It did not include the coolant change, but did include tire rotation and a car wash. That price seems to be the same as your parts cost (granted you did buy a couple extra parts).
Overall if you are not looking for a headache then for the piece of mind I think you got a fair price. It may not be the cheapest ever found but it seems like a moderate price. I agree that you would pay more if you did not bring in your own parts. It seems to me that place is living up to the STEALERSHIP moniker.
I advice anyone to begin to learn how to handle their own service. You will save literally thousands or dollars per vehilce over you life even compared to someone who is a professional haggler/penny pincher. And you get the staisfaction of knowing every aspect of your car and when ou should actually be doing something to it, instead of listening to the recommendations of a Service Advisor.
Hope I didn't rain on your parade. I do think you did fairly well with those prices. It could have been much worse or a little better. To me it just reinforced my desire/need to handle my own work. BTW, I am a home taught mechanic, I know that isnt' saying much, but over the years I have learned a lot and it has saved me thousands of dollars on auto and motorcycle service.
I'm sure there's a way to do a little better, but there's only so much more time I could have spent trying to look to save the next dollar. You had given a summary of:
"Labor at $514.12 and Parts at 136.20, for a total of $650.32"
My parts were at $136 for the coolant, transmission fluid, air filter, and cabin air filter. My spark plugs were at $40. and labor was at $378 so the total of all this is what I paid for everything.
But yeah, looking at that $349 major service promotion.. Seems the runaround I did to save money doesn't seem too far from what's covered in here. I only do big maintenance things like this so often in the car so I'm not upset.
Thanks for the tip.
Sometimes to much alcohol on the blades will dry the rubber up quicker and within a few months when it rains you will start to see streaking on your windows when it rains.
What also works well and is a little safer is window washer fluid, drench a papper towel and then clean your blades off, you can also use new coffee filters there actually great for cleaning glass they never leave any lint behind.
I didn't see any information in the manual about it and I was wondering if it was something I could do myself or had to go to a dealer (either to be reprogrammed or traded in).
2007 Honda Accord EX 4 cyl/5spd manual
Thanks for any input.
Thanks to Elroy for posting this in the past. The old manual had it but the new ones do not.
Post 2748
It's not programmable as far as I know.
It's not programmable as far as I know.
Wow, thats just miserable, thanks for letting me know. I will just it to the list. Its hard to believe the same company that gave us the original Civic SI and CRX is like this now.
Eh, I take that back, the '07 isn't a bad car, just a bad choice for me.
Lemme ask ya, not trying to be smart here, but just how much time does it take you to get to the car when you hit unlock? I don't unlock the car until I'm, well, about to get in it. I'm not seeing the big problem; I see it as a security feature. I'd appreciate some insight into your thinking!
Add weather and a small child. The RKE for our other vehicle has more than 3' of range so I can actually unlock the car before picking up the 22 month old and the diaper bag and the gloves/hat/jacket and whatever I bought, walk out to the car, open the hatch and put the stuff down, then go open the back door and put the lil guy in his car seat.
With the Honda, I have to put the kid and the stuff down, get the key fob out of my pocket, open the trunk, put everything in the trunk, get the key fob, unlock the door, open the door and put the kid in his seat. It is much more of a pain from November through March/April when the white stuff falls from the sky and or its just uncomfortably cold, or the rest of the year on the days its raining.
Also, the car is in the garage at night. Every time I go out there to get something out of the other car, I just go get it. With the Honda, I have to go to the kitchen and get the keys and bring them with me, since if I just hit the unlock button from the kitchen, the car probably wouldn't hear it anyway, and if it did, it would be locked again by the time I get out there.
When I got that car, I was actually excited because I never had a car with RKE before. Unfortunately, its really not "remotely"
Oh and the window roll down feature is nice, but about half the time I activated just trying to get all 4 doors to unlock and getting them to stay unlocked until we all get in, so I get a nice wet snowy seat too. :sick:
I'm glad there are use cases that seem to work for other people, like I said, its not a bad car, just a bad choice for me.
First, press the unlock button twice to unlock all of your doors and then open just the drivers side door and shut it. When I did this, the doors would stay unlocked. I could then open the passenger's door or the trunk, do whatever needs to be done, and the car won't lock its doors on me until the engine is started or until I lock the doors with the keyfob.
Maybe this might work for your car too.
Uh... when you open any door, the car stays unlocked.
It is getting to the door before the 30 seconds is up that he has problems with.
My coupe has had the "check fuel cap" message appear at least 6 times since I bought it new 2 years ago. Everytime I bring the car to the dealership, the message mysteriously disappears as if nothing is wrong.
I always tighten my gas cap 10 clicks, so I know the cap isn't loose. And the problem usually happens when the weather changes from cold to warm.
The dealership tested the gas cap and tells me that everything checks out ok, so they won't replace the gas cap under warranty, and my warranty will run out next March, so I want the problem fixed while the car is still under warranty.
Any ideas?
By the way, the "Check fuel cap" message appeared yesterday afternoon and I didn't touch the fuel cap at all. I was planning to take the car to the dealership this afternoon, but as soon as I started up the car to go to the dealership today, the message was gone. How aggravating!
I've never had problems like this with my old 2003 Civic sedan, or my 2001 Pontiac Firebird.
It makes me wonder if it's a computer problem or a faulty fuel cap. :confuse:
Since it happens to you repeatedly, without having touched the gas cap, and they tested it, the problem could be elsewhere. There could be a vapor leak elsewhere in the fuel system, or just as likely, a fualty (or oversensitive) sensor tripping the light.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Also he said that if I run a tank of Premium per month it would clean out excess carbon and reduce the amount gas consumed over the long run.
Is there truth to either of these statements?
I recently noticed rust on one side of the rear passenger window (the pillar.) Its extremely annoying and the dealer will not repair it under warranty (extended.)
they are charging $300 + to replace the part. Anyone have any ideas? Sanding and re-painting will only fix the issue until rust re-appears after a year...
It's not the octane, that cleans the fuel system. It's the detergents. Use a high detergent gas (top tier), or use "Techron" occasionally, with the cheap stuff. The detergents are usually the same, regardless of octane rating. Premium has no more detergent than regular. I always try to use the same brand and octane. If your car doesn't run well on a certain brand, try another brand, till you find the one that works best, and stick with it. I use Texaco regular, because it's "Top Tier", and because I can usually find one wherever I go.
My two cents on the subject.
I run seafoam once in a while. My friend said to run some through the crank case, but to wait until the day or two before my next oil change. He said any sooner could mess up the oil and cause thermal breakdown. Does that make sense. Or can I run a can for the entire change interval, 4-5k miles?
I'd suggest the 20 oz size Techron 2- 3 times per year. The premium fuels tend to have more detergents, however they tend to leave more deposits so it must be a tradeoff. The Top Tier is a marketing thing; other brands have as much and as suitable detergent packages as those brands. They just don't join in the marketing group.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I appreciate all the tips.