Running premium in a car designed for regular is just a waste of money. I just use top tier gas: Chevron, 76, Conoco, Texaco, and others.
I also heard that putting Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas or oil could benefit, but I have not tried this myself. I can never seem to find it, but I would like to try it.
I'm currently getting 29 - 31 mpg in the Accord and 22-25 mpg in the Firebird. I wonder how much, if any, the mpg would increase?
I've been stuck 21-24 in my Accord since winter started. Hopefully it'll rebound back up to 28 this summer. Although I have to say the combined MPG for my model year 2003 is spot on. My overall average taken since last march is 25 and change.
I can't see any reason to use it. It's essential thin oils. It's owned by Turtle Wax, you know. At least it was a few years back when I checked into what was in it. There used to be a fellow recommending it in every post
I use a good detergent gas (87 octane), good oil (changed regularly), and a bottle of "Techron" twice a year. I can't complain about the results, and I don't see the need for other oil/fuel additives. There are a million additives out there, and just as many claims of added performance and durability. To each, his own.
Walmart has 12 oz size for up to 12 gallons. Pepboys, advance auto, autozone and others including Meijers discount stores (like Target and Walmart in upper midwest) have it. Watch for sales, rebates, etc. Autozone just finished a rebate of $7.95 per bottle up to two bottles when the price was $7.95. I think Walmart is $5.95 for same 12 oz bottle. Don't overfill tank if using 12 oz size. Or just put in half of a second bottle. Put in while tank is low when you're ready to fill then add the gas right away.
It's essentially the additive package of Chevron (Texaco) gasolines. Has been for years. I used it because the mechanic fix it radio show in Cincy recommended it because of Chevron and BMW's use of it early on.
What you want is called Fuel System Cleaner. Black bottle. There is a similar Techron that says Fuel Injector Cleaner. I believe it's weaker. It's a cheaper price where stores have it.
I have a 2003 Accord Coupe. The drivers side headlight burnt out. It looks like I have to take out the battery to get my hands in there. Is this correct or is there a better way.
I think the owner's manual says to go through the fender well. Whether that's better than removing the battery or not, I don't know. Just make sure you have the radio code if you disconnect the battery.
Yes, you do go through through the fender in the wheel well. Tankbeans posted the procedure here (I think it was post 4163 but I'm too lazy to go check now) and IIRC, it is also in the owner's manual.
Someone posted somewhere that you can get to it from under the hood and had a mechanic do just that. Not sure if I read that here though.
I have a 2003 Accord Coupe. The drivers side headlight burnt out. It looks like I have to take out the battery to get my hands in there. Is this correct or is there a better way.
.....classic definition of 'a better way' lost on me ......but the local Honda dealer did it for 10 bucks.
.....went for a walk, read some car magazines, flirted with the service writer whose striking resemblance to Heather Locklear was sort of intimidating........
30 minutes later, the sailor was "underway as before." $10 plus the cost of the bulb......................
The owner's manual says to change the transmission fluid at 120,000 miles. But some history on Accord's previous V6 transmissions, causes me to change out 3 quarts every 30,000 miles. How dirty/clean the fluid looks at this change, should give you an idea if you need to do it sooner or later next time. There is a filter too (top secret). I changed my filter at 60,000 miles, on my 03 V6. Some things did change between 03 and 07.
I have recently bought 2007 Honda Accord LX SE with 60000 miles on it. I had the user car inspection done at Midas and came out clean with brakes being good etc..
Now I am having this problem that When I press brakes at speeds above 40mph I am hearing little squealing sound coming from front brakes on left hand side.. Is it due to some debris on the rotors? It is mostly happening when I brake at higher speeds.Do I need to do anything. I am planning to take it back to Midas and see if they can tell me different now from the Inspection report..
I have an '05 Accord, and got the same message. I am guilty of overtightening things, and what occurred was a tear in the gas cap gasket. I am sure this upset the balance of the fuel system (vacuum, pressure, whatever they call it). They replaced my gas cap under warranty (this occurred within the first year of ownership...bought the car new) and have made it a point to only go one or two clicks. Have not had any more problems with "Check Gas Cap" coming on. Hope this helps. The tear in the gasket was so small I didn't even notice it until they showed it to me.
Please help. My husband accidentally pitched the owners manual for the car. I just passed the 100000 mile mark on my car. Our local dealership is telling us we need to spend $1000+ on all these maintenance items. Can anyone tell me what the suggested 100,000 mile service appointment entails? Is all of this really necessary? Thanks!!
The 4 cylinder has no timing belt, so I don't see justification for $1000+ bill. If it was a V6, the timing belt would be more than half of that estimate. Do you have a list of what is included in this maintenance?
"THe CCA, etc. on the OEM is borderline. I think the OEM was ~430, and the replacement was ~750-800"
I have found no replacement options where the CCA is any greater than 500. The 51R model (correct size for the Accord) seems to be pretty much standard for the industry -- probably because they are mostly made by the same manufacturer. Even the exceptional battery, Optima Yellowtop (supposedly a better choice, if you can afford it) is listed at only 450 CCA.
For my money, what matters most is a battery which keeps its charge when not in use (like, say, parking at the airport for a week.) If Sears made the 51R in a Diehard Platinum, I think I would be willing to pay the premium for it. Unfortunately, they don't -- at least, not yet.
need help - the passanger side door lock on my 06 Accord EXL is not working... does not go up or down with the button or with the key flob button... is this something easy to fix or do I need to have bring it in to Honda?
I had the inspection done again at Midas and they were saying the brake pads and rotors on all wheels look good. Mechanic says squeaking sound is okay and I have to live with it (Surprisingly)
OR They told me I can have rotors rotated and put Ceramic pads on it to reduce the Squeaking but they are not guaranteeing anything
Just had the same thing on the passenger side. Dealer did it free--took three minutes. I bought the bulb and the service writer installed it himself. He did not remove the battery--just reached in the front fender through the hood. I have an '05.
I have an '05 manual 4 and I changed it at 60,000 and will do so again at 90,000. I should have done it at 30,000. I mistakenly thought that the manual did not have to be changed like the automatic, but not true. My service manager is always truthful with me about what needs to be done or not done. He strongly recommends it. Given Honda's problem with their automatics going bad at or around the 100,000 mile mark, I would especially do it.
First of all, I would never use some side group to replace them. I would only use Honda. You are most likely hearing the brake dust getting on the rotors. If so, not a problem. I just don't trust groups like Midas.
Ok so I ran outside in the 11 degree weather now to go to the store and I could not unlock the doors. The remote nor the key in driver's side would work. One click, two click, 10 clicks - nothing! With the key in, I can do full turn counterclockwise but maybe can only get it turned 45 degrees clockwise. I knew there was a way to open the windows with the key in so I tried holding the key counterclockwise - but to no avail. Trunk opens!!! Last was in the car fine with no problems maybe 10 hours ago when it was up near 30 degrees. Any ideas?
This one is easy. I had the same thing. There is "something" that freezes. The relay "clicks" as you say. It "sounds" like it is unlocking but it doesn't. An easy way to solve the problem is remote start. Once it warms up it opens easily. Should it be the answer? Of course not. I brought it to Honda to open the panel and lube the parts inside, but even then I occasionally had the problem. I don't think using the high pressure washer made the situation any better for me. Lately I haven't had the problem, even without using the remote start, so maybe the lubing of the internal parts of the door helped. Good Luck. Think Spring.
I've not heard about any 4-cylinder Accord automatics with a problem. The 2003-2004's had a problem, and the warranty was greatly extended, and a fix was put in place in early 2004.
You may well be right about that. I have had people tell me that that was the weakness of the car on more than one occasion. I had a friend with a 2002 Accord and his transmission went out at 100,000 miles, however Honda replaced it. A month ago, I purchased a new car for my wife (not a Honda). I considered either trading in hers or my Accord. He told me that it was a good thing that I had the 5 speed stick because the automatic transmission was their weak point. In the end, I let hers go and not my Honda.
Robgrave, I thought the Accord was a group 24 also (like my Odyssey). But I will need to check that later on!
So maybe the Accord size doesn't come with quite the CCA and reserve capacity of the 24 that went into my van
In any case, the Everstart Maxx (walmart) has been great, and is the best deal around. CR even gave it top marks (and featured it in the auto issue that just came).
I seem to have nursed my '05 through the winter, although it was real weak sounding starting the car the last couple of days after work. I don't think it would crank it in the morning after a couple of low-teens days if I didn't park in the garage!
"I seem to have nursed my '05 through the winter, although it was real weak sounding starting the car the last couple of days after work. I don't think it would crank it in the morning after a couple of low-teens days if I didn't park in the garage! "
It seems to be a problem with newer cars (and not just Hondas) that the battery weakens over time during winter months. The AAA guy who got me jump-started last week told me he's had many 2009's this season with the same problem. His advice: drive the car more often, and take longer trips! (My 2006 has only 10,000 miles on it.)
Well, mine is a 2005 that has seen 4 winters, and it was dead as a rock before I bought it from sitting. So combined with the fact that IMO Honda OEM batteries are marginal at best (OK, crappy), I probably got my moneys worth out of it!
Might have only lasted this long since my commute is 85miles/day since last sumemr (before that mostly short hop local), so it does get pelnty charged doing 2,500+ miles/month!
"... IMO Honda OEM batteries are marginal at best (OK, crappy)..."
I'm not so sure about that, stickguy. It's probably true that you can get a just-as-good battery for less (particularly if you install it yourself). Which batteries are actually better, well, opinions vary. As I said in a previous post, the same manufacturer appears to produce them, branding them differently.
It's the quality of the lead plates that's supposed to make the essential difference. "Pure lead?" "Virgin lead?" I've seen those claims in promotionals for premium-priced batteries. Is it just hype? I haven't the expertise to judge.
The Battery in my 04 exl v6 lasted all of 25 months , Honda picked up the labor to replace it and I paid for the battery, wow what sports, my biggest gripe was the original is way under capacity and when you looked at the owners manual they told you the policy was to replace this little POS with a 100 month behemoth, which it should of had in the first place. I had 3 Honda's in 7 years finally I gave up on the brand I liked most everything about the cars, but began to feel they were nickel and diming you on build quality, Bad batteries, Dim flickering headlights, brake warping, Cheap crap that said time to move on.
I read someone had trouble with the passenger side door lock. The other day, my mother could not open the door. It was stuck and the key fob didn't work, nor could I open it from the outside. Guess what was wrong???? I noticed the lock looked a bet lopsided - you're right! It needed to be screwed in a bit. That was all, so please try that. They are merely screwed in. I have a feeling that passengers fiddle with that more than we do on the driver's side. just try to screw it downwards. Voila. Anyway that was my fix. I hope if works for you
thank you for the tip - I will try it ....... This is why I love this Forum - people helping people..... we need to stick together - Thanks Rick - from the Windy City area...
I was driving home from work. Once I left I was accelerating and all of a sudden my RPM spiked up to the #3 to almost #4. I was slowly pushing the gas down and my car wouldn't accelerate or change gears. It felt like I was in neutral but I wasn't. Then later on in the trip back to my home the problem slowly didn't happen anymore.
Please keep in mind that I have to go get my car fix because the Honda Dealership found that I have to fix my "EGR insuffiecient flow" which they said a "EGR pipe kit" would do.
Could the EGR problem that I current have be the problem on the RPM? Or is there another problem to my car? Any pointers!!!
I plugged in my phone charger and went to the gym and go inside. Come back out, drive home and realize the phone isn't charging. Tried the other lighter plug. Tried the other phone and phone charger, then tried the ipod charger..nothing nada zilch.
I haven't checked fuses yet, but I thought if the lighter plugs didn't work something else would be out too.
The charge outlets do not charge on a Honda when the engine is not running. They do on my Big Three automobiles. I don't like that, but that is a Honda thing.
The charge outlets do not charge on a Honda when the engine is not running. They do on my Big Three automobiles. I don't like that, but that is a Honda thing.
Car is on on and running, still no go on the charge ports.
I think they don't want you to run the battery dead, but that is not the issue I am having.
Comments
I also heard that putting Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas or oil could benefit, but I have not tried this myself. I can never seem to find it, but I would like to try it.
I'm currently getting 29 - 31 mpg in the Accord and 22-25 mpg in the Firebird. I wonder how much, if any, the mpg would increase?
Anyone try Marvel Mystery Oil?
I can't see any reason to use it. It's essential thin oils. It's owned by Turtle Wax, you know. At least it was a few years back when I checked into what was in it. There used to be a fellow recommending it in every post
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
To each, his own.
It's essentially the additive package of Chevron (Texaco) gasolines. Has been for years. I used it because the mechanic fix it radio show in Cincy recommended it because of Chevron and BMW's use of it early on.
What you want is called Fuel System Cleaner. Black bottle. There is a similar Techron that says Fuel Injector Cleaner. I believe it's weaker. It's a cheaper price where stores have it.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Someone posted somewhere that you can get to it from under the hood and had a mechanic do just that. Not sure if I read that here though.
.....classic definition of 'a better way' lost on me ......but the local Honda dealer did it for 10 bucks.
.....went for a walk, read some car magazines, flirted with the service writer whose striking resemblance to Heather Locklear was sort of intimidating........
30 minutes later, the sailor was "underway as before." $10 plus the cost of the bulb......................
works for me,
best, ez.......
2007 Accord SE V6 auto
Thanks
Now I am having this problem that When I press brakes at speeds above 40mph I am hearing little squealing sound coming from front brakes on left hand side.. Is it due to some debris on the rotors? It is mostly happening when I brake at higher speeds.Do I need to do anything. I am planning to take it back to Midas and see if they can tell me different now from the Inspection report..
Please advise..
Thanks
Kushal
Meanwhile, perhaps some others here have suggestions for you.
I have found no replacement options where the CCA is any greater than 500. The 51R model (correct size for the Accord) seems to be pretty much standard for the industry -- probably because they are mostly made by the same manufacturer. Even the exceptional battery, Optima Yellowtop (supposedly a better choice, if you can afford it) is listed at only 450 CCA.
For my money, what matters most is a battery which keeps its charge when not in use (like, say, parking at the airport for a week.) If Sears made the 51R in a Diehard Platinum, I think I would be willing to pay the premium for it. Unfortunately, they don't -- at least, not yet.
is this something easy to fix or do I need to have bring it in to Honda?
OR They told me I can have rotors rotated and put Ceramic pads on it to reduce the Squeaking but they are not guaranteeing anything
Please advise,,
Kush
Ok so I ran outside in the 11 degree weather now to go to the store and I could not unlock the doors. The remote nor the key in driver's side would work. One click, two click, 10 clicks - nothing! With the key in, I can do full turn counterclockwise but maybe can only get it turned 45 degrees clockwise. I knew there was a way to open the windows with the key in so I tried holding the key counterclockwise - but to no avail. Trunk opens!!! Last was in the car fine with no problems maybe 10 hours ago when it was up near 30 degrees. Any ideas?
So maybe the Accord size doesn't come with quite the CCA and reserve capacity of the 24 that went into my van
In any case, the Everstart Maxx (walmart) has been great, and is the best deal around. CR even gave it top marks (and featured it in the auto issue that just came).
I seem to have nursed my '05 through the winter, although it was real weak sounding starting the car the last couple of days after work. I don't think it would crank it in the morning after a couple of low-teens days if I didn't park in the garage!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
It seems to be a problem with newer cars (and not just Hondas) that the battery weakens over time during winter months. The AAA guy who got me jump-started last week told me he's had many 2009's this season with the same problem. His advice: drive the car more often, and take longer trips! (My 2006 has only 10,000 miles on it.)
Might have only lasted this long since my commute is 85miles/day since last sumemr (before that mostly short hop local), so it does get pelnty charged doing 2,500+ miles/month!
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The Pads are Ceramic and he is saying it is common to have that squaeling sound and have to live with it..
OR he is suggesting to put new pads/rotors surfaced and see if this goes away..That is $230 worth..
I am in dilemma now..
Thanks
Kush
I'm not so sure about that, stickguy. It's probably true that you can get a just-as-good battery for less (particularly if you install it yourself). Which batteries are actually better, well, opinions vary. As I said in a previous post, the same manufacturer appears to produce them, branding them differently.
It's the quality of the lead plates that's supposed to make the essential difference. "Pure lead?" "Virgin lead?" I've seen those claims in promotionals for premium-priced batteries. Is it just hype? I haven't the expertise to judge.
we need to stick together - Thanks Rick - from the Windy City area...
Please keep in mind that I have to go get my car fix because the Honda Dealership found that I have to fix my "EGR insuffiecient flow" which they said a "EGR pipe kit" would do.
Could the EGR problem that I current have be the problem on the RPM? Or is there another problem to my car? Any pointers!!!
I plugged in my phone charger and went to the gym and go inside. Come back out, drive home and realize the phone isn't charging. Tried the other lighter plug. Tried the other phone and phone charger, then tried the ipod charger..nothing nada zilch.
I haven't checked fuses yet, but I thought if the lighter plugs didn't work something else would be out too.
Car is on on and running, still no go on the charge ports.
I think they don't want you to run the battery dead, but that is not the issue I am having.