Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
As for SUVs, I have a '97 Isuzu Rodeo with 120K miles on it. All I've done are 2 sets of pads, 1 set of tires and oil changes. Still purrs like the day I took it home. Sorry to hear about all the problems with the Fords...
-mike
I'd look at the trooper if I were looking at the Explorer Limited, cause they are a little bigger, and far more reliable.
-mike
mine. Appears that the hubs are going and wondering if any of you went with the manual hubs
instead. Supposedly it's doable and will cost
a lot less (~$350 vs. $880), but then there is
the hassle of having to stop the car to engage
them. I realize that I need to determine how much
convenience is worth, but would like to hear from
others if they had any problems going this route.
Regarding the ABS light, it comes on at various
times and can stay on for hours. The dealer
diagnosed the problem as a bad hydraulic control
unit and the cost is ~$850 to replace it. Any
others have this problem? Does the cost sound
right?
I have never used this dealer but did get a
recommendation.
Thanks in advance.
Eddie
With all my experiences with Ford on my 96 Explorer you can almost rest assured I will NOT trade for a new one this fall. Quality is NOT job 1 for them, and service is job $$$$$$$$$$.
It all comes down to the bottom line. It's all BS.
1. A car SHOULD run for 150,000 miles without a major service, with exception to brakes and timing belt changes.
2.What some people consider "runs well" could mean "oh, I've only had to rebuild the transmission, or replace the A/C, or this is only the second engine."
---lets face it people, these are not common problems, a "WELL" build auto should last with no major services except for routine maintenance.
--and no, replacing the transmission or engine is not routine maintenance, due to what some may think.
--People who have never owned a well build car figure that these expensive repairs and constant services are normal, thats because that's all they have ever known!
--But, due to the criticism I still plan to get into the American market and purchase an Explorer, at least it's cheaper to repair and it's the trendy thing to drive. Who needs to save money.
Thanks!
Good Luck
BUY A BOOK SOME TOOLS AND HOPE FOR THE BEST.NOW
WITH COMPUTERS,ABS,AIRBAGS,AND SECURITY SYSTEMS
YOU NEED TO BE TRAINED AND SKILLED.HERE'S THE
PROBLEM, DEALERS DO NOT WANT TO PAY WHAT IT
WOULD COST FOR A MASTER MECHANIC.I WORK IN THE
COPIER REPAIR FIELD AND IT IS TYPICAL TO TRY
GET THE CHEAPEST TECHNICIAN. AS A CUSTOMER I DON'T
MIND PAYING $60 HOUR FOR QUALITY SKILLED PEOPLE
BUT OFTEN THEY ARE TRAINEES.MY EXPLORER HAS BEEN
PERFECT FOR 26K MILES AND IF IT DOES NEED WORK
I HOPE THE MECHANIC KNOWS WHAT HE'S DOING.
tie down hooks in the back. thanks for the help!
Scott
tie down hooks in the back. thanks for the help!
Scott
I owned a 1997 Explorer XLT for two years. Because of some family changes that were forthcoming (buying a house, marriage) I decided to trade in this excellent vehicle and purchase a 1999 model of the same. My rationale was to have a safe, reliable car for even more years to come.
Boy, I could not have made a more incorrect decision. This 1999 model has been in the shop 14 times since April 1999. I have gone as far as filed a lemon law complaint with Ford because of a recurring pinion seal problem (this was finally repaired). This vehicle has had the following work done in this time...
-a replaced windshield (factory defect)
-horn replaced (broke after 4 months)
-pinion seals x3 repairs
-front brake rotors replaced (warped at 12,000 miles)
-rear suspension assembly replaced (one of the components was completely split in two...and this vehicle has never been driven off road!)
-ball joints and support arms in front end (broken at 10,000 miles!)
It will return to it's second home this coming week to have the engine "dieseling" looked at, as well as engine hesitancy.
I have spoken to both my Ford sales manager at Dayton Ford (South Brunswick NJ) and the Ford district rep. They claim these are not "driveability problems", and that if it were the case of a bad engine or transmission they might be able to help me. The only consolation they could offer is $1,000 off the purchase of a new one. I could do better myself.
As for me, I will fight until Ford does something or my warranty runs out. I am not getting $32,000 worth of a vehicle and certainly not the customer service you would expect for having made such an investment. DO NOT BUY AN EXPLORER OR FORD MOTOR COMPANY PRODUCT. THEY WILL GLADLY TAKE YOUR MONEY, BUT THEN TURN AROUND AND SHRUG OFF YOUR PROBLEMS, OFFERING LITTLE ASSISTANCE TO YOU, THEIR CUSTOMER.
thanks again!
scott
are only part of a package to get results. You
have to modify the intake and exhaust system too.
It's not cheap and may not be legal.When I got
my Explorer I thought just get a chip and I'll
have more power.The people selling the chips
may tell you it makes a difference but unbiased
3rd parties say different.
horsepower and about 25-30 more lbs ft of torque.
I guess this coupled witha K&N filter might yield
better results. I certainly don't want to put
in a whole new exhaust system, too much money. So your chip made no difference at all?
Scott
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy1.cfm
Also one of my 100,000 mile Platinum plugs went cold after 17,000 miles. It made the engine hesitate when it was cold. I swear who ever the engineer was that made it to where you had to get under the vehicle to replace a spark plug ought to be the poor fella that has to replace it.
This was my first Ford product and it has been in the shop more than all of my other GM products combined. This will probably be my last.
Engine:
91-current Explorers use a 4.0 OHV (overhead valve) V-6. It was the sole V-6 engine until 97 when the SOHC (single overhead cam) version arrived. They are the same engine only the SOHC uses different heads. They are based on the old 2.9 V-6 used in the Ford Ranger from 86-92. They are built in Cologne, Germany and are a very good design. Both engines are still offered, the OHV is on low-line XLS, XL models from 97-current. XLT and above gets the SOHC or the 5.0 V-8 (96-current).
Problems with the OHV are most commonly dieseling sounds. Most of the time this is due to "piston slap". The pistons slap on the insides of the piston skirts. It can be caused by a simple manufacturing defect in a wrist pin/connecting rod of very little tolerance. Piston slap is very rare and engine failure due to it is extremely rare. It normally will not damage the engine any more than everyday use. It is more annoying than anything. Overall this is an extrememly reliable engine and is good for more than 200K of service or more without incident. Early models also had EGR problems if equipped with an EGR valve.
Problems with the SOHC are stalling, vibrations while turning and knocking sounds on startup or hard acceleration. Stalling can be due to a bad program in the ECC (engine control computer) or a warped intake manifold/bad intake gasket. It can also be caused by fuel with high alcohol content or a loose gas cap. The ECC can be reflashed with an updated program, the intake is usually solved with a new gasket and sometimes a new intake manifold. The manifold leak causes a vacuum leak in the cylinders causing it to stall. Try different brands of gas and always tighten the gas cap. Especially the twist and click type. Vibrations while turning are caused by the power steering hose/exhaust vibrating under steering pump load on the engine. There is an update for the hoses and an exhaust bracket that makes those noises completely disappear and makes the steering smooth as silk. The knocking noise is the timing chain tensioners, specifically the tensioners. The original design had the tensioners mounted to the engine block with nylon anchors. They would break and cause the timing chain to rattle against the timing covers. After several redesigns, they have finally made them steel and should solve the problem without further incident. This noise usually starts around 20K and worsens. It normally will not cause any engine damage but is not good for the engine either. I've had all three of these problems with my 98 and all three are fixed for good. It is smooth as silk.
Other problems are phantom wipers, premature transmission failure, premature rotor warpage, rear wiper failure and rear suspension noises.
Phanotm wipers is caused by a defective multi-function switch. Some corrode and some were bad from the supplier. It makes the wipers activate themselves when turning the signals on or making turns. It has been updated and should not cause any more problems once replaced. 97 and newer Explorers have speed dependent intermittent wipers. The faster you drive the faster the intermittent wipers wipe (the shorter the intervals). This is a conveniece and can be turned off (see owners manual) don't confuse it with phantom wipers.
Premature transmission failure is most often a result of lack of maintenance. The tranny should be serviced every 15-30K miles depending on towing, driving habits, etc. I think the owners manual is far to lax on freqency of this service. I think it says 50K. I do mine every 15K, I tow a lot and do a lot of city driving.
REar wiper failure is a lot of times due to the rear wiper getting stuck in it's holder on the hatch. Try turning it on and freeing it by hand (be careful). I've done this a couple of times and it has never failed since. The holder is a little tight and needs to be loosened up. It helps to use it more often too.
Rotor warpage is present on almost all newer vehicles and is mostly due to driving habits. The brakes get hot and something as simple as driving through a mud puddle or a car wash quick cools the rotors and they will warp. The tires and suspension on Explorers help amplify the problem. Just living with it seems to be the best. Mine are slightly warped on both my F-150 and my Explorer and it comes and goes with weather and brake usage. Don't ride the brakes, brake hard, and do your best not to get hot brakes too wet. Also, air wrenches can warp rotors too. Always request hand torquing of lug nuts whe you have service performed.
There is an update on the rear suspension bushings that will solve the bed spring sound some of you have.
that's about all I know about the Explorer. when I get time I will dig out my invoices and post part numbers and any others TSB numbers I have. I do not work for a dealer but I am lucky enough to have a good service department. Ford has designed many updates to parts and worked to correct some of these problems. I think that many of you aren't hearing of them for some reason. My Explorer has had almost every problem I mentioned except for the tranny problem. All of this was fixed in one trip and four days sooner than projected. Ford sells almost half a million of these a year. Most folks I know haven't had any problems with Explorers but for as many as they build there are bound to be some problems (many times supplier problems not Ford). Sometimes it's common sense problems (rotor warpage) that folks aren't aware of. I love mine. I drive the hell out of it and the great service department has made the problems seam minor. I hope this info helps. Take it to the dealer with you. I will post part/TSB numbers ASAP. Good luck.
The problem is the left camshaft hydraulic chain tensioner located behind the thermostat housing and threaded into the left cylinder head. When a hot engine is started, the oil pressure is low enough to prevent the tensioner from working properly causing the chain to rattle until the oil pressure increases gradually silencing the noise. Ford has produced 3 different tensioners for this chain with the second and third designs supplied to their dealers to correct this problem (usually on warranty vehicles). The third design corrected the problem on my engine. The first design tensioner can be identified by the gold color of the 1 1/8" head (looks like a bolt head). The second design looks the same except it is black. The third design is black and has a 2" extension protruding from the top of the bolt head.
hicaira, I understand how you feel. If I did not have such a great dealer, which seems to be the norm on these boards, this Explorer would be long gone.
I worked at a Toyota dealer in 93-94. I saw many a Camry with engine problems right off the truck. Avalons had windshields falling out and a host of other problems. They were always fixed and no one cared. If a Ford had a problem, people say "I will never own another Ford" Many of Fords problems are no worse than Toyotas in most cases. It is the biggest brainwash I have ever seen. People will actually spend 10K more for a Toyota and if it has problems you'll never hear about them. My fathers 92 4x4 pickup V-6 auto. is the biggest POS that any of my family memebers have ever owned. He drives his company Explorer to avoid driving the truck. He is on his fourth pass side front hub, third AC compressor, brakes every 8K, there is a rattle in the A pillar that no one can find (very strange problem). He has babied the truck it only has 70K miles and still smells new. AS a 80's Toyota fan, I am truly shocked that ever Toyotas quality has fallen in the last 15years the way it has. I had a 84 Celica GT once that was absolutely one of the best looking, designed and most reliable cars in history. Toyota builds nothing close to that now. It's a real bummer. They ALL have problems now.
After a couple of shouting matches in the service and sales department of my Ford dealer, I got them to help me out of my 1999 Explorer. Name a problem Explorer is notorious for, this truck had it, and then some. In 15 months of ownership, this truck was out of service for 17 days. It had the windshield replaced (factory defect), horn replaced (broke), 3 trips for pinion seals, ball joints and support arms replaced, rotors replaced, a broken rear suspension link assembly, the timing belt tensioner problem, and a mysterious steering problem which would cause the truck to loose its path in turns after the front end made a loud clunk.
Last week I purchased a 2000 Explorer XLS Toreador Red with the Sport Package. Bottom line, if anyone out there in the New Jersey area sees a 1999 Platinum (dark gray) Explorer XLT with appx 14000 miles on it on a used lot or auction. DO NOT BUY IT!!! It is a death trap.
Hoping to have better luck with this one, njdevilsrn.
There are other electrical problems as well--driver-side passenger window won't operate; 4WD is activated without the button being pushed; and, new for today, the dome light stays on in spite of all doors being tightly shut and swtich on dash being turned off.
Meanwhile, in what my review of this BB indicates is SOP, the dealer is passing the buck. First they said the gap on the sparkplugs was incorrect (it wasn't). Then they said it was the aftermarket alarm on the car...so we disconnected it and the troubles have continued. I agree with many of the other sentiments posted here--dealers want to do nothing more than sell cars, they could give a damn about fixing them under warranty (we bought an extended warr.). It makes it all the more clear while I prefer imports. The Explorer is my wife's, but not for long if this trouble continues. My car is a trouble-free volvo 850 wagon, a manufacturer which unfortuatnely, since I bought the car, has been purchased by Ford! Thankfully they aren't serviced at the same dealerships!
Any suggestions you have, please let me know. Post them here and/or email me at tommy_i@msn.com.
Thanks.
P.S. We just bought new tires, Michelin LTX's ($415 at Costco). The Explorer, when it actually starts, drives twice as well as it did with the OEM Firestones--more quiet, smoother ride and better handling. It was every bit worth the extra $50 versus getting Firestones. Now, I just hope we can get the electrical issues resolved or we'll be trading it and the new tires in on an import.
Also, it that is not the problem, maybe you can try to burp the gas cap, and try to start the car again.
Good luck.
Any other suggestions? I am not ready to trade it in, but don't like the thought of my wife being "stranded" again. We actually looked at a (I hate to say it) minivan (Toyota Sienna) tonight. But I continue to pin my hopes to the collective knowledge of Edmunds readers and posters!
Thanks!
Anyway, the bottom line is that for a little more money, I can get a Ford Explorer XLT. Should I save the extra money and steer clear of the Explorer or is it worth the risk? I've never owned an American car and am hesitant because of their poor reputation.
Thanks for any help.
Nick
it sounds as if the fuel pump may be going. It will happen without regular filter changes on MPI engines. There is also a chance that one of the ignition components is overheating, coil pack, etc. does it do it hot or cold or anytime it feels like it?
For the dome light, I believe there is a TSB on the door jamb switches. It was a supplier problem on some F-150, Rangers and Explorers with the door jamb switches inside the door.
The window is probably a defective switch or motor, it happens (even with Siennas and Volvos)
dokealoke, Ford sells more Explorers than Toyota sells Camrys. The car in which most folks refer to as the benchmark for reliability. I used to work at a Toyota dealer, I can honestly say buy what you want. These days you are taking the same chances with all makes, you just hear about more American car problems because there are more American cars. Good Luck.
http://www.usatoday.com/money/consumer/autos/mauto716.htm
It states that their MAY be a problem with the firestone tires that Ford is putting on their SUVs (including the explorer).
It appears that the tread comes off some of the tires during operation. The article states that there is data to support that this has even happened with the tires when the vehicle was traveling less than 20 MPH (though 55-75 MPH is more typical)and less than 2000 miles of use.
I am concerned as I have just purchased my second Ford Explorer (loved the first one, and so far so good with the 2nd) and they have the Firestone tires.
Has anyone had this terrible experience with the tread coming off, and if so, did you contact Ford/Firestone?
What did they say?
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Jaq
I can honestly say I will never buy another Ford.
By the way, I currently have mine for sale.
Good Luck, and purchase the extended warranty.
I'd say that the warranty at a $1300-1500 price is probably a good bet, since the odds are pretty good that you will have a major service done after 36,000 miles.