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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I have a 96 Explorer V8 with 121,000 miles on it. Outside of the tires cupping and replacing the throttle body plate at 42,000 miles, the car has been extremely reliable. The steering wheel began sticking at about 95,000 miles. It was only intermittent. Now it does it every time. What I mean by sticking is, as you go to turn the steering wheel the wheel stops and you have to give it an extra effort to get it to continue turning. Once you get beyond this "sticking" point it turns with no problem. It doesn't seem to hurt the performance of the vehicle but it is more a nuisance than anything else. I had it checked out by an independent garage (fluids, belt, etc.) and they saw nothing wrong. the only other thing is the steering rack. Could this be the problem? has anyone else had this problem? may consider getting this repaired since I will keep the vehicle as long as it lasts. The engine says it wants to go another 5 years.

    Thanks for any help.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds like a rack problem to me and it sounds like something that you should take care of right away for safety's sake. It's odd that your garage couldn't find a problem.

    Steve
    Host
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  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    1) I noticed the edmunds maintenance guide says you should have the fuel filter replaced every 10000 or 20000 miles. The Ford guide makes no mention of it. Anybody change theirs?

    2) Both front seat belts in my truck recoil when I get out (or a passenger) pretty much whenever they feel like it. Otherwise they lie limp and invariably I shut the door on them. Anybody else with this problem?

    3) Transmission service...many different thoughts here. Ford book says 30000 miles. Local dealer says they can just look at the fluid and see if it needs doing rather than automatically servicing at 30000. I am nearly due for 21000 mile service, and do a lot of driving in mixed traffic. Should I get it done now, truck is 18 months old, I own and want to keep the thing running for a long time. Also, should I go for a total transmission service with fluid, filter, etc. or just a fluid change?

    Thanks!
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    i got a 2000 explorer xls im wondering even though it has a electronic engine componets and fuel injection system i was looking at power max on tv it says it cleans tranny, engine and fuel,system is it true why? this explorer was made bad ive had many problems with the fuel system ford had to replace the catalytic converter after 20000 miles gasket tail pipe etc i change my oil all the time it dont help syntec blend so im wondering what can i do to make it sound like its clean or tune down the sound its a little loud what can i do ???? ps i have yr left on the lease planning to get rid of it jan 2003 would it be worth it? plus i have warranty it has almost 42000 miles on it .
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    does anyone with a 2000 xls know about problems after 40000 miles just wondering im aprroaching 42000 so im wondering what to expect besides church and the movies and work shopping thats all i drive i keep oil changed maintenance is kept up the main reason im asking is that ford which i have found out makes crappy cars and trucks simply so thats all thanks.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    The fuel filter should be replaced when you have a problem, or else at around 30K. Its an easy replacement, but it can get messy.

    The tranny should have the pan dropped, the fluid and filter replaced every year. The dealers give you the BS that they usually just change the fluid, but since to change the fluid you have to take the pan down anyway, change the filter too. It only costs $17 for a filter.

    The stupid maintenance manual also does not address the changing of the power steering fluid, which should be done every 24-36K miles, or if it gets really dark or burning smell is present.

    Don't forget to FLUSH the radiator every other year. It is important to clear out all of the gunk and sediment that collects in the bottom. Also have it pressure tested.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I was hoping you wouldn't say that. I have to get a bunch of maintenance things done in the next couple of weeks. So I will have them check it out. The garage that looked at it is out of business (owner decided to retire after his partner died). I was upset about that. It's so hard to find good, honest mechanics.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Well, I can't turn a wrench, but it doesn't sound like something you want to ignore too long.

    Small comfort, but you aren't alone with a steering problem:

    cwmoser "Isuzu Trooper" Jan 25, 2002 6:45am

    Good luck.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    I find it hard to believe that the dealer is hesitant to do work I request. When the thing was new and I wanted an oil change at 1500 miles, I almost had to have an argument to get them to do it. If I'm paying and it isn't warranty work, I don't see the problem.

    Makes you wonder how much of an interest they have in keeping the car running in good shape.
  • agarianagarian Member Posts: 3
    the interior door handles and plastic trim are breaking apart. can't buy new panels $480.00 for driver side at ford and left side unavailable, also can't locate any at a junk yard. would it be possible to use newer year panels(grey interior)? any after market companies? other than this problem it's a great truck i've had since new.
  • mikec2002mikec2002 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Folks. Disclaimer - Let me start out by saying I know next to nothing about car engines!
    Took in our Explorer with 68K miles on Thursday because it was idling really rough and seemed to be "slipping" when I went to accelerate. Going over 60mph felt like I was really pushing the car. After two days the dealer tells me that it wasn't holding compression and that they need to send the heads to the machine shop and replace the head. Is this normal for a car with so few miles. We bought it with 28K three years ago so we have done around 13K a year mainly around town and such. Had an extended warranty that expired last November even though we haven't gone over the 70K miles!! Typical! My main question is this though. We took the car in last July because it started over heating - air conditioning blowing hot air, lights on the dash came on etc. It was also making some funny knocking noises. Service dept. replaced the thermostat and away I went. Well now that it is out of warranty the price is $1790 to fix. After talking to some people more knowledgeable than myself, I am starting to thing that it might be related to the over heating last July and should be covered under the warranty. What are my chances of getting the dealer to see my way of thinking? They claim it's not related because they did a compression test last July and it checked out OK. Is there someone else I should be contacting about this other than the dealer? They claim to have contacted the "warranty guy" and all they can do is give it to me at wholesale rather than retail which will save me 20%. Something smells fishy to me and this just isn't adding up.

    Many thanks in advance for any info anyone might have.

    Mike
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I am not going to be a lot of help here, but it is more than plausible that your overheating was related to your head gasket issue. I just had the head gaskets replaced on my 98 Subaru Outback and the only symptom of a problem was engine overheating. The way it was diagnosed was not with an engine compression test, but rather they found hydrocarbons (combustion gasses) in the coolant. I would defer to someone such as mazman on this one, but I am not certain that you would see a loss of compression in the early stages of a head gasket failure. I think the problem probably existed while it was under warranty, but I don't know what your chances are of proving it. Good luck.
  • smokn14josmokn14jo Member Posts: 2
    I wanted to first thank each of you (mazman1, dtownfb and G159) for your input. I appreciate the speed of which I (we) received replies :)

    Sorry that it took me so long to reply back ...

    anywho, would it be safe to assume that if her truck makes such a noise then the linkage has already sustained considerable damage from the prior owner doing that very thing (driving on dry pavement in 4WD) too much? ? ?

    also, I don't recall if she has the 4WD (auto) option on her truck (i'll check tomorrow) but if she does, then from what I read of the previous posts in 'auto' mode it will not lock the front wheels, correct?

    Therefore, if the road surfaces are variable, such as black ice, some snow (wind blown drifts)... etc ... then it would be safe (okay for the truck) to run in 4WD auto?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    If she has 4WD Auto, tell her to keep it there during rain, snow or icy conditions. Otherwise keep it in the 2wd mode. 4WD Auto will not lock up her wheels, until it is necessary.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    If the damage is done .. no sense crying over spilled milk... Just get it fixed.

    On my 2000 Explorer, the knob on the dash has 3 positions 4WD Auto, 4wd high, and 4wd Low. I leave it in auto, and it never engages 4wd by itself.. even in snow. When I get stuck in snow, I have to turn the knob myself to put it in 4wd mode and lock the differential. I can unlock the diff by taking it out of 4wd high and backing up slowly a few feet.

    On my Expedition, there was an additional knob position that said 2wd. I basically left it there all the time. I manually turned the knob to 4wd high when I was in snow.

    To answer your last point, "yes", but try to avoid making sharp turns in 4wd high mode, as that puts a lot of strain on the linkages. Unless you are in Buffalo, NY, you will do better to be in 2wd.. especially from mpg perspective.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    Let me see if I understand. You had an overheating problem last year. You brought it in, and they fixed it by changing the thermostat. Was it fixed? Did the truck run ok after the thermostat change?

    Did they actually do a compression test last year? Do you have the service Repair Order that you can refer to that actually says they did it? If they did not do the work last year, you may have a case for an attorney. At the very minimum, I would talk with an independent mechanic you trust.
    After that, use the knowledge to speak with the service manager or the shop foreman at the dealership.. not some drone in the service writer uniform. If you feel put down and are not explained what is going on, or they are not willing to work with you, call the Ford regional rep... but only do that as a last resort.

    From what I have read here, if you have a head gasket problem, they can just replace the gasket. If the heads are fouled or there is damage to the pistons or valves, those can be indicative of some serious problem.. one that would not have been fixed with a $1.35 thermostat swap 6 months ago.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    i got a 2000 xls and im like 140 miles past the time im supposed to get a oil change ive got castrol syntec blend 5w30 in the engine the main question is how long will it or rather can i get at least 5000 miles between oil changes out of this oil i will start using ac delco oil filters so anyone answer this please thanks.ps i got 42000 miles on thus thing so far.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    Chances are the paper in the oil filter will go bad before then. Castrol Syntec is 80% dino oil and 20% synthetic. If you want to go longer between changes, change to full synthetic and upgrade to a heavy duty filter.

    IMO, changing the oil at 3K miles, spending $30 for a oil change is not a big deal. Its probably the single best thing you can do for the vehicle to keep it on the road. Changing the oil regularly helps the engine get rid of particulate dirt and makes sure the engine is properly lubricated (in case you go down a quart).
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    of course i got xls im wondering i wanna clean this engine some say oil does it but i think it does not can power max do the trick or they say as your mileage goes up you need to go up in octane i use shell is that true i got 42000 miles on it she will have at least 57 to 58000 when im done with it what can i do ...
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    Clean the engine... Do you mean inside or outside? I never really cared too much about cleaning the outside of the motor. I have seen some over zealous people that actually Armor-All the plastic parts of the engine.

    Regarding cleaning the inside, I use Chevron Techron Fuel system cleaner every 6 months. I also use Isopropol Water remover in the winter to get rid of bad gas and condensation.

    Regarding Oil changes, I change the oil & filter every 3 months or 3,000 miles.

    Hope this helps.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    whats your take on snythetic oil ripoff or no doubt it should be in any car etc. plus who really makes the best if you drive alot like i do and go like 200to 300 miles past oil change due point castrol or amsoil mobil who let me know i know who makes the best filters ac delco right ??? oil and air.plus for what kind of truck or minivan thast the question.
  • raaizinraaizin Member Posts: 31
    How do you remove the front rotors on a 96 explorer with control trac. I removed Calipers and associated hardware but rotors wont budge. There is a center net in the axle, must I loosen this, or is corrosion holding rotor on hub
  • epp1epp1 Member Posts: 48
    Hello,

    I have a '99 XLT 4WD with the SOHC 6. 39K miles. Lately, I been experiencing a strange phenomenon while driving that essentially feels like the tranny slips or disengages momentarily while travelling along at speeds of 40-whatever. It is a sudden jerking sensation that I can feel through the throttle and the passengers can feel by the jarring effect.

    I had the tranny serviced - new filter and fluid. This seemed to temporarily solve the problems, but no less than 250 miles later, it began acting up again. I do not lose any tranny fluid on the underside of the car or on the garage floor.

    Has anyone experienced something similar? I call ed the dealer and was told there was no recall he was aware of that coincides with these symptoms.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Sean
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    I asked a similar question on this board a few months ago. According to several of my local Ford dealers (Central NJ), the Ford company line is that they do not recommend using synthetic or blend oils in their vehicles as the vehicles were designed to run with "dino" oil in them. Now, as far as running the car 200 or 300 miles over the oil change due point, is that 3300 miles or 5300 miles between changes. I never go more than about 3000 miles between changes, and I think most people on the board, including mazman (who I think uses a synthetic or blend oil) would agree not to go past 5000 miles with any type of oil in there.

    PS...no insult intended, but can you try to put a period or comma somewhere in your posts, they're kinda hard to read.
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I would bet the only reason that ford dosnt recommend synthetic or a blend is that they dont want their vehicles to last that long. Tell me how do you design an engine to use only inferior oil? And no, seal leaks/shrinkage is not an issue any more. All of the same great oil additives are in synthetic that are found in dino. More information can be found in the maintenance board under "synthetic motor oil".

    98 V8 AWD 52k on mobil 1 full synthetic.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    Oil:

    I use Castrol 100% Syntec 5w30. Syntec Blend has 80% dino 20% synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is also very good oil. Where it really comes thru for you is if you are very hard on the engine.. lot of city driving, hot climate driving or off roading. Synthetic oil is superior to dino oil because it can withstand colder as well as hotter engine temps without breaking down or coagulating into sludge.

    A big consideration is to use a quality oil filter.. not a piece of junk. The filter wears out or gets gunked up before the oil wears out. Fram makes an inferior product in my opinion. I use PureOne, made by purolator... but if you change the filter regularly, at about 3,000 - 5,000 miles the filter you use probably does not matter.

    epp1:

    Sounds like one or more of your clutches is malfunctioning. I'd have the tranny in to see a tranny professional (does not have to be the dealer unless under warranty.. they just send it out anyway) soon before you cause any damage to the unit. Just driving around can damage a malfunctioning tranny.

    Good luck
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    Yes. Lots of off road driving and a leaded foot.

    Also, its my understanding that the ford motorcraft oil filter is made by Purolator and makes it much cheaper than just buying the Purolator brand. Yes, I do know that its not exactly the pure one model but its much better than most.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    so a oil treatment will not hurt a ford?? i think the way to do it is just pure in the crankcase right? not that i have lead foot got into a doggone lease and didnt know what i was doing i know now it will have like 59000 on it bye 1-03 when i git rid of it as far as doing the oil treatment every oil change is that the way to go????? thanks ps. is stp good???
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I know this is not directed at me, but why do you need to clean out the engine when all you are going to do is turn over the ford next year? You wont see any long term benefits form it nor will you see any immediate return for your extra expenses. My advise to you is save your money. Oil changes are all you are obligated to as far as that area is concerned.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Oil treatments only hurt your wallet. No manufacturer recommends them, but the reason is they have no proven benefits and have not gone through any manufacturer's testing. It is certainly not because manufacturer's don't want their engines to last. People's main motivation for getting a new vehicle is the desire to owning an improved newer vehicle, not that they wore the old one out. Most vehicles traded in have engines that will last through several more owners.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    I agree with Smily1. I would not bother spending the extra money. Just change the oil & filter regularly. You do not even need synthetic oil if you are getting rid of the beast in 10 months.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    i guess my question is even though i am getting rid of this truck. would it hurt to put a treatment in it. it runs like crap NOW so i guess im looking at the time i do have it. next yr is another thing. not being shallow but since i got it brand new it was made wrong. manafactured wrong ford makes crappy cars & trucks. thats why im thinking since i have it i want to sound & run better thats just me any answers appreciated. the other owner thats his thing me well im different.tincup your right when you said people want a new and improved vehicle. as you see i did not get that. so as you see thats why even though it history next yr i want to get all my $$$ worth plus i got more problem with this truck so thats all i wait for respones.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Oil teatments have no effect on vehicle performance or how they run except in rare cases where they burn oil. IMO they are a waste of money.
  • jphdxljphdxl Member Posts: 32
    Steve: Sorry about the poor choice of words.

    Has anyone had any experience trying to get Ford to buy back one of
    their pieces of garbage.

    My 97 EB V8 has 50k miles and is now running (although 'running' may
    overstate its condition) on engine #3. Had it in last week for another
    oil leak which was supposedly fixed, and now is leaking again. There
    have also been many other major problems 'fixed' during the last 5
    years.

    My extended warranty is expiring at the end of the month (best thing I
    ever bought) and I'm petrified of having this thing one day outside of
    warranty.

    How likely are they to buy it back or give me an extension on the
    warranty? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Jphdxl, no biggie (this topic tends to bring out "colorful" language) - thanks for reposting.

    I had company two days ago and noticed the guy was driving a very nicely detailed Explorer, so I asked him about it. In addition to the wax job he had just spent $4,500 on an engine rebuilt at 60,000 miles. I believe he said his was a '97 too.

    He complained to Ford and they tossed in $500 on his repair bill. So I wouldn't hold my breath about getting any special favors in your situation, but it's worth a shot looking into your state's lemon laws and talking to the dealer and Ford reps.

    Good luck.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Lemon Laws only apply during the original Factory Warranty period in some states, some limit it to a lot less, none would extend to either six years out or 50,000 miles. About the best jphdxl can expect is maybe an extension on his present extended warranty. For a good summary of Lemon Laws of all 50 states check here:

    http://www.autopedia.com/html/HotLinks_Lemon2.html
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Excellent point and thanks for the link, Tincup47.

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    In reference to questions about buyback, Ford is horrible to deal with. I had a '99 XLT that had every problem in the book. Cam tensioners, faulty windshield, warped rotors, bad ball joints, squealing piston seals, leaky rear hatch, broken horn, all in 14 months. I went round and round with the dealer and with the Ford rep. The best they did for me was offer my truck and $3000 for a 2000 XLS or $6000 for an XLT. And this was on a Ford junk truck that was just over a year old with less than 15000 miles. My advice is to ask them (that never hurt) but I am almost positive they will tell you that you are up the creek without a paddle. Start looking over the car ads, take the hit now instead of the aggravation later.
  • dude4adaydude4aday Member Posts: 3
    Oil changes, I think is misleading.

    From Motor Week, Pat Goss explained that using the ODOMETER as a measurement for changing oil is pretty useless.

    His example:
    10 miles/hour * 300 hours = 3,000 miles
    30 miles/hour * 100 hours = 3,000 miles
    60 miles/hour * 50 hours = 3,000 miles

    Thus, the odometer reads the same mileage, yet one car has used the oil 6 times longer.

    You may say 10 miles/hour is invalid. Well, not necessarily. Suppose, I deliever mail from my car. The engine sits from stop to stop idling.

    He suggested installing a hour tracker like in fork lifts, boats, and planes.
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I agree, the odometer is not that accurate for establishing oil change intervals by itself. Car companys must have some way to give the customers a point of reference. That is why they have severe and normal driving conditions in your maintenance guide. Even calculating the number of hours an engine operates is almost useless. Factors that best define a need for oil change are:

    -total # of engine revolutions
    -engine temp
    -rpm
    -engine duration. eg: do you drive for 30m or 30sec before you turn it off.
    -engine load

    There is more I am sure. If your car or truck dose not have a computer to calculate these variables then the best we can do is use our judgment guided by the manufacturers minimum guidelines (LOL).
  • manvinmanvin Member Posts: 1
    I took my 2002 explorer in for it's first oil change while the oil being changed the counter man came to me (I was sitting in the customer waiting area) and asked I wanted a tire rotation and I said yes, WOW was that a mistake. the oil change was quick the service man said that they were now going to rotate the tires. One hour later I thought to myself this is taking to long, as I was walking towards to window I could see that they were putting on the wheel nut covers back on thats when I notice that my 2002 explorer was lifted up by the small cross member between the engine and the transmission. I could not see how or where the back was lifted. Remember my Explorer was up on the lift for an HOUR. man did I get excited! The dealership told me not to worry that they will stand behind the Explorer 100%. Will the truck lost its smooth ride and they won't do anything about. small bumps are becoming a nightmare. I been asking the dealership to please contact a Ford Explorer Engineer to find out what undo stress was caused. I need help (for peace of mind). can anybody out there help. I purchased not leased. Do Ford Engineers read this forum page. thanks
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    and tell them exactly what happened. if you have a lawyer, cc them on the letter, and make sure the letter says you did that. send it registered mail.

    dealers have insurance to handle such a deal... but since they won't talk to you, you should also cc: the state commerce department where they do business.

    and send a copy to the general manager of that dealership... again, all parties should be noted on the letter, as direct addressees, such as

    Zone Manager
    Ford Motor Company
    1313 Thatstreet
    Someplace, Else 00000

    cc: Foolem, Billum, and Runn
    Attorneys at Law
    666 Nowayout
    East Hell, Else 00000

    Hon. Blather Onandon
    Commerce Commissioner
    State of Confusion
    12345 Capitol Fumble
    Capitolcity, Else 00000

    General Manager
    DORF Ford
    1 Bad Place
    Blackhole, Else 00000

    enclosing copies of the service order and bill, completely describe your excellent adventure, and detail the further misadventures with your dealer. Nothing will happen for several weeks, so follow up. If nothing happens after that, add your local consumer reporter at the TV station to the mailing list, again as a named addressee, along with copies of all pertinent correspondence. At this time, you should also add the Dealer Relations Office, Ford Motors, Dearborn, MI to the named mailing list.

    in my humble opinion, after a foobar of this nature, somebody owes you a new car. As in 2.1 miles on the odometer, with a free extended warranty and a nice cake to celebrate with.
  • vtburgvtburg Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Explorer with 28K and have a sinking feeling my transmission is dying. Before today I would get a sharp vibration from under the front seats whenever accelerating uphill or on a long grade while the car was loaded with more weight than just me. Turning off overdrive would make the vibration go away but after taking it in twice the service dept. never was able to replicate it. Then yesterday I pulled into my apartment and put on the parking break (the lot is on an incline), after I let my foot off the regular break I felt and heard a 'thud' from roughly the middle of the chassis. Then finally this morning I noticed the engine and the tachometer would race or 'jump' concurrently after pulling away from a stop light and accelerating to ~30 MPH or the 2500-3000 RPM range. Just before pulling into work my Overdrive light began to flash. So I have a service appointment tomorrow, how bad is it going to be?
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    Your vehicle is under warranty, so don't worry about the cost of the repair. Just make sure you get it fixed before it leaves warranty. Make sure the Repair Order states exactly what you describe... that way if the problem happens again when you are out of warranty, you have it documented.

    Good luck. Don't drive too aggressively until the dealer appt.
  • vtburgvtburg Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reassurance. I heard from the dealer today, said the 3rd gear is totally gone and they are going to start to tear the tranny down. Since I bought the car used last November(forgot to mention that) I am being extra careful to document everything. But to be on the safe side I had Roadside Assistance come and tow the car in this morning.
  • njdevilsrnnjdevilsrn Member Posts: 185
    Hey, I know you recommend the Chevron Tecron (Fuel System cleaner - spelling?) - how much do you normally spend on it. Target had a bottle (I would assume that is the correct one to use in the Exploder) that treats 20 gallons for $9.99. The one meant for cars was like half the price. Is this about right, I really dont feel like burning a couple of bucks worth of gas to save $.50 somewhere else! Thanks.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Interesting that you talk of that vibrating noise when going up hills. As I too have noticed the same thing on my 2000 XLT SOHC Explorer. It only happends once in a while and only when the overdrive is engaged. Since it seems to be nothing but anoying it doesn't bother me. It only buzzes and thats the end of it. I know its not normal but I figure its a lease vehicle and if something happends with the vibration to cause a problem its covered under warranty. Is it possible that your 3rd gear was ripped to shreds due to you turning off your overdrive to often to get rid of the buzzing? My Explorer while not perfect with its timming chain tensioners clattering (that noise mysteriously dissapeared) and a bucking feeling that seems to come with wet weather it has been a good vehicle. Maybe I just see things differently because I only leased. It just seems like Ford keeps shooting themselves in the foot with their vehicles lately. I hope with your rebuilt trany that your buzzing will be history. The best of luck with your vehicle.
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    I generally pay $10 for Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner (not the fuel injector cleaner). I buy the big bottle and add it to the tank when it is 3/4 full to have a higher concentration of the stuff. Then I drive it to almost empty. I do this about every 3 months. In winter time, I add a gas line antifreeze when it snows or is very cold.

    If you belong to Costco, I think they sell Techron for a buck or two less than Autozone.

    Hope this helps!
  • rysterryster Member Posts: 571
    Hi!

    My question relates to my parent's '00 Mountaineer, but figured it is the same as an Explorer so I would post it here.

    '00 Mountaineer 4x4, 4.0L SOHC engine, 21K miles. The truck will idle very roughly (albeit sporadically) at normal operating temperature. It feels like it wants to die, but never does. While this condition is present, the truck will also accelerate suddenly when pulling away from a stop or light(with very little pressure on the accelerator, the engine will race and the truck will pick up speed very quickly). Not a good thing when in dense traffic!

    In any event, the dealer replaced the MAF sensor but the condition remained. It is going back in on Friday to have the condition evaluated again. We are requesting the IACV be replaced and the TPS be checked and replaced if necessary (under warranty of course). Do these seem like reasonable culprits? When the engine is running/idling correctly there is no sudden acceleration, so we are assuming this is a idle adjustment/throttle adjustment related problem.

    Anyone else have this problem with their Mountaineer/Explorer? If so, what was the resolution? My '00 Explorer does not have this problem (although I have the 4.0L OHV engine in my truck).

    Thanks!
    ryster
  • mazman1mazman1 Member Posts: 229
    I think there was a recall on the throttle control cable and linkage. The main symptom was "sticky accellerator". Check the recall and tsb data on www.alldata.com

    you might also wish to have them change the gas filter and clean the injectors if that does not work.
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