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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • rifferiffe Posts: 3
    I had my transfer case serviced today. BW4405 Fluid was not low, just very dirty. No change vehicle seems to be stuck in 4WD, I've checked the switching motor on the transfer case its working OK. I'm thinking its perhaps a shaft speed sensor (front or rear). Requesting information on these sensors. What the proper name for them if I call the Ford dealer to get pricing? Where are they located? Any info you can give me will be appreciated.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 12,041
    i think mine is just like that. i keep thinking the timer shuts off the lights and then they don't go back on when you open the door(usually the next day). i have waited in the garage a few times to see if the lights turn off after a bit, and they always do. you could always use the fob to unlock all the doors. i know my puddle and interior lights come with 1 push of the unlock button.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    yes, i know there is a 109 minute delay after which everything goes out to save the battery. what seems odd is that it is inconsistent like you, one hit of the key fob and everything lights up. guess overall its probably normal
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 12,041
    one thing for sure, i'm not going to wait 110 minutes to see if that works! i have always wondered about why the interior lights don't always go on when i open the door, but i figured i would just drive myself crazy, trying to nail down the circumstances.
    2017 Ford Fusion SE 2014 Ford F-150 FX4
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    sorry - typo. there is a 10 minute delay after which all power is cut off to save battery, not 109. i have tried (unsuccessfully) to duplicate the problem, but, at best, it is inconsistent.
  • I used to own a 98 Ford Bronco 4x4 fully loaded. I lost my left rear tire on the highway going 60mph+. I saw other Broncos with the same problem. Then my Bronco burned to the ground one summer eve. I swore to myself and friends that I would never buy a Ford product again. My father had a 95 Explorer Limited and kept it till 2003 when he replaced it with a 2003 Limited. He never had a problem with the 1995 Explorer. I bought a few Chevy’s and loved them till I was hired by Ford Motor Credit and got an employee discount. Just in time since I was incurring huge repair bills with my Tahoe. I thought since I was getting such a great discount I would replace my Tahoe with a Explorer. My Explorers window sticker was 34,000.00 I got it for 25,000.00.Paid cash..Pretty good deal. The leather interior is alright nothing special. After I had it about a month I noticed when going in reverse and turning in drive that the transmission seemed to slam hard. I took it in and that they said they fixed it. Well a month later same problem, did the same thing and was told it was fixed. I bought this vehicle in May 04 and now have 19,571 miles on it. I commute to Denver CO everyday and I am now noticing the same thing and also a hesitation when accelerating on the highway. The Ford dealer has no idea what to do at this point. Personally I think the dealers are a bunch of idiots. Seems like buying a good Explorer is hit or miss. Good luck dealing with Ford it seems like you have a long road ahead of you. Also this may help you a bit. Ford dealers receive a list of possible problems or defects (this is not a recall list) from Ford Motor Company and transmission problems and 4WD and torque are some of the problems listed. The dealer may show you the list if they like you and you ask nicely. They don't have to. I have the list for 2003 and 2004 but I will have to look around my office for it. When I find it I will list the problems that relate to you and the Company directed repairs. Might help.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Maybe GMAC is hiring :-)


    Is that Ford list the same as the technical service bulletins that get sent around?


    Steve, Host
  • just a update... looks like Ford has made the replacement of the rear diff a option if the customer wants to fix the limited slip problem...
  • gasooner, I just noticed same thing on our 2002 Mountaineer with 37K - did you ultimately fix yourself or take it to a shop? If so, how much was the fix? thanks
  • I have a 1999 Explorer XLT with a V-6 4,0 ltr SOHC with only 35.000 miles. Problem is car keeps on stalling and bad idle. Scanlizer said cam position sensor, cleared the code and installed new sensor, still the same, cleaned injectors, checked fuel pressure and fuelpump everything o.k Please could somebody help me with this problem because nobody here on Aruba can not even the Ford dealer, thanks very much Jan
  • gregb5gregb5 Posts: 82
    I've got the same problem as you do with the Limited Slip Diff. It's been chattering slightly for awhile now. I took it to the dealer yesterday, and after a few feet of test drive, the tech told me they'd replace the diff under the extended warranty. Should be fixed next week.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    Have they checked out the EGR valve? If that is stuck or there is a problem with the vacuum line going to the EGR valve the car will idle rough and/or stall out. I had this problem, removed and cleaned the EGR valve and the issue was resolved.
  • HI- I have a 91 explorer xlt with about 156k on the engine. I recently have been having problems with a sudden loss of power while driving.This does not happen all of the time but seems to be progressing. It all Started out on a very cold morning (almost felt like a stuck choke) the engine seemed to run with out misfiring but seemed to not be getting enough air- (bogging)it also seems to be spewing out black carbon in the exhaust at times. This seemed to happen primarily on cold mornings until lately when it is becoming more frequent. I do not feel like I am burning oil the truck has a somewhat normal exaust other than the carbon(no strong burning oil odor or smoke)I also noticed if I shut it off and let the truck sit a few minutes after the bogging it will run fine for a while until it progressively runs worse again. Any ideas? clogged converter? bad egr valve? Please help!! Thanks-
  • bmr4bmr4 Posts: 6
    The Overdrive O/D light no longer lights up before starting, and is inoperable when the shift button is pressed (it will not downshift to third gear) but does shift from 3 to 4 under normal operation.
    Is this the beginning of more woes?
    Just replaced the mass air flow sensor-$287.00 due to K & N filter oil element fouling the sensor. K & N does not respond to my message, and my mechanic tells me there is a FORD bulletin that does not advise K & N for this reason.
    Your reply much appreciated!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    A few models come with K&N's installed, so it'd be interesting to see the Ford bulletin. Try the K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? for more comments.

    Steve, Host
  • You may have a vacume leak driver side valve cover vacume tree also check hoses that come off there they may be broke ,some are little plastic things you can replace them with rubber. i had this problem plus i had a leaking modulator valve on the transmission letting trans oil to be sucked to this vacume tree making for slick a faulty hoses it kinda eats the rubber. Now this is the fun part every one will tell you that 91's do not have a modulator valve on the transmision but the auto zone and my mech. were wrong. so just check to see if these hoses are oily and spongy then if they are folow the one going to the trany if u have one have a mechanic replace it u have remove catalitic converter and it was a job. plus catalitic converter was pluged probably due to buning trans fuid. by the way if u have this problem check trans fluid level or u will get stuck somewere because your truck will not go in gear. good luck hope this helps
  • Thanks for the help, all of my vacuume hoses seem to be in order. I am also driving a 5 speed. Im not sure the tranny fluid is an issue. This has gotten to the point that I cant move it 50 feet without it running like crap and stalling. Again I wonder what the deal is with the black soot- This is something that has become progressively worse. It started on the coldest day this winter and went away for a few weeks. Now it has gotten much worse?
  • jo060jo060 Posts: 1
    Hey, I own a 2004 Ford Explorer, and every time it hits about 3000rpm it will make a spooling noise like a turbo charger. The noise comes from the the passanger side which is also the side the intake is on under the hood.
    I'm able to hear it with the AC on or off.
    Any idea what this is?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Does it happen at all temperatures or only when cold?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    If it's mainly occurring with the engine cold I would have a look at intake gaskets. Spray soapy water around the gaskets and the throttle body gaskets too and see if there is change or you see soap bubbles. Black smoke could be the PCm trying to overcompensate for the lean condition by dumping fuel. Mass air flow is giving it one reading, but the O2 sensors are a lot leaner.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    O/D problem sounds like an electrical problem within the O/D switch circuit. If it's shifting into 4 OK, then it's not likely a mechanical problem.

    I've heard a lot of things about oiled air filters in MAF-controlled cars, most of it bad.
  • bmr4bmr4 Posts: 6
    Thanks for your reply. I will keep an eye on it, and my teenagers easy on the gas!
  • 1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer 4WD, automatic transmission. This just started Friday, car is in park, reverse out of parking spot, put in drive and it will not drive forward. After going back to reverse and back to drive a few times it drives normally. Also noticed that it will not creep forward after applying the brakes and letting them up. I have checked the transmission fluid and that is fine. It almost feels like the brake is on one front wheel. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.
  • I had a similar problem with an 83 F-150 in December of 04. The problem was an easy fix! Check for exhaust leaks especially around the header. In my case the header bold had fallen out and after I replaced it the truck ran much better and the noise was eliminated.

    I think that the leak in the header allows cold air to enter back into the engine causing the diesel sounds.

    Check Exhaust manifold and all exhaust in front of the catalic converter

    If you have any questions e-mail me at

    Don't waste your money on the other crap non of thoes things should cause your engine to make a disel sound.
  • davevdavev Posts: 1
    I have an 02 XLT V8, and I have a few issues. The 4WD light keeps flashing on my dashboard, and when I try to engage the 4WD, it does not engage. I can engage 4Low, but not high.

    Also, last snow storm, I noticed a flourescent yellow fluid on the snow when I moved it to shovel. It was on the snow where the rear end was. Anyone know what that might be?
  • Well it does it cold or warm,that doesn't matter.What could it be???
  • Took my 2002 Explorer-Eddie Bauer to the ford dealer on Friday, February 18, 2005 because of hesitation at 20-30 mph and then again at 40-50 mpg. Dealer called back to inform me that I had a transmission problem-the overdrive piston was rubbing on the case. There's only 35,821 on the vehicle, however I've have it for about 31/2 years. I'm waiting to see if the extended warranty I bought will cover the repair costs. I'm also trying to see if Ford will cover it.
  • Where to start. I live in Australia and own a 96 LTD Explorer, which are a little unusual here.
    It started to o/heat which became the transfer hose from water pump to thermostat, all fixed. Yesterday all good then suddenly after being parked started up and felt like running on 3 cyl. Usual checks found an excess of water from tail pipe, but none in oil, removed plugs and three from the left side all sooted up and the others all clean. Removed inj manifold, 3 inlets clear, 3 oily and sooted up (same side as fouled plugs.) Feels like it is over choking, but have the feeling it is more sinister. Could it be a blown intake manifold gasket or electrical....Help it is hard to get advise down under. I am greatful for any ideas. By the way I have more worries, but this one is major
  • nitromaxnitromax Posts: 641
    The first thing I would do would be to check the compression of the cylinders....especially on the bad side. A blown head gasket could cause the same symptoms. Low compression will give you poor power. Water leaking into the combustion chamber would cause plug fouling and excess water in exhaust pipe.

    Another thing to check is to make sure that all of the plugs are seeing a spark.

    If it is the head gaskets,and you have to replace them, you should probably also have teh heads removed and have them magnafluxed to check for cracks.

    Good luck and keep us updated!
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