Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Have ya rebooted? Power it down, and then repower it, with the battery cable or by pulling the plug on the unit. It may start it back up for you.
  • ash7ash7 Posts: 1
    Hi...Did you manage to get a dyagnosis of you problem problem...It appears i may have the same problem and fear it could be the Transmission!! :(

    When the vehicle is warm the rattle isnt too bad..but when i first set off and accelerate it sounds like a bag of spanners being rattled until i ease off the gas???
  • The paint is peeling from the front edge of the hood of my 2003 Explorer. The dealer says that it is due to wear and tear, but that is ridiculous in a two year old car. I've done 50,00 miles so I'm out of warranty. Also the leather on the drivers seat is splitting, they told me that was because someone had been sitting in it (!)
    has anyone else had this happen? What should I do? I'm definitely not paying to get the whole hood resprayed, or the seat mended !!!
  • josuejosue Posts: 2
    I have a ford explorer 1996, it always start in the mourning, but after driving for a 10 min. and try to start a gain one or two hours lates, it won't star, only cranks, and smells gasoline, after six or seven times in two minutus it's star like with no problem, I have changed the Air Control Valve, and it's has the same problem? What could it be,, any one Knows???
  • kernkern Posts: 5
    My wife and I bought a 2002 Eddie Bauer Explorer in January of 2005. For the first seven months of this year, we didn't experience any problems. In just the last few months, we've both noticed (she drives it more than I do) that as we climb the fairly steep roads up to our house, when the transmission downshifts, it really shifts extremely hard. Also, when backing out of the garage up a slight incline and you put it in drive, it may take a few seconds to shift from "R" to "D". Our mechanic changed the transmission fluid but it didn't have any effect. The car has about 65K and has been maintained extremely well (I bought it from my boss who drove it as his company car). Can anyone tell me if this is a known issue with the '02 Explorer and if so, does it sound like it is an adjustment or does it need a new transmission?

    In addition to this problem, as you turn the wheel to the right, a loud humming sound comes from the front end and I know it isn't the tires. Is this a wheel joint?
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    The paint is peeling from the front edge of the hood of my 2003 Explorer. The dealer says that it is due to wear and tear, but that is ridiculous in a two year old car. I've done 50,00 miles so I'm out of warranty. Also the leather on the drivers seat is splitting,

    Unless something got on/in the paint- it SHOULD NOT be peeling. As far as the seats are concerned, this IS A WIDESPREAD PROBLEM on both the Explorer and Expeditions. This leather is too thin and is JUNK!

    Now, I need to be honest with you---the way Ford is hurting right now in the marketplace, you can bet your last dollar that it is going to be very difficult to get a "good will adjustment" on your car. I would try to have them repaint the hood, and go to a good aftermarket place and just pay to have the seats redone. I would write a letter to Ford and say that you are not happy and have a very subtle point about buying something else next time around!!
  • chuck1chuck1 Posts: 1,405
    I don't know what the front end sound is (are you sure it's not the famous bad rear-end?). On the transmission, it is not uncommon for these transmissions to need a "reflash" of the computer. And it's possible the trans-solenoid is bad as well. Both of these are common problems with this transmission. If you did not take you car to the dealer for the transmission flush, it's very possible your mechanic did not know about the above. Now of course, the first thing the dealer is going to tell you is to flush the transmission, and when you tell them it was done elsewhere, I suspect you will get limited cooperation on your issues......
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You likely have a solenoid failing from bad transmission fluid - there is a recall out on that, did your car participate? If not, you may be covered still. If it was, you have a problem......sorry :( The transmission may be toast by now. That solenoid failure will eat up your transmission pretty fast if not quickly dealt with.
  • thanks i will let you know
  • I have been experiencing the same problem, except now I get very hot air even on the Maximum Air setting. This started about the same time my ignition switch bell started going off even with the key out. I was wondering if the two problems might be connected.
  • I have a 1994 Ford Explorer. About once a week right after starting the car the idle goes haywire. The engine runs at 250 RPMS instead of the Normal 1000 RPMS. During these times the car stalls out when the driver is not giving it gas. The problem seems to occur more when the engine was been ran recently as opposed to after the car has set all night. Finally, it seems to go away for awhile (2 weeks) after replacing the air filter. Any ideas?
  • Ash7, the description of your problem doesn't quite sound like ssimonton's. Any other symptoms that make you fear the transmission?

    About a year ago my Ranger did exactly what you describe. There was a rattle under acceleration when cold that would stop if I let off the gas. It didn't do it when warm. The problem was a loose shield on the catalytic converter. I repositioned the shield and the noise was gone. Exhaust resonance can cause shields to vibrate and make strange noises that come and go depending upon heat and throttle position.

    With your vehicle cold and transmission in Park, try bringing the engine speed up to about 1500-2000 RPM slowly. Can you hear the noise under those conditions? Or hold the brake firmly with the transmission in Drive and step on the accelerator a bit to put some load on the engine/driveline. If you can duplicate the noise while having someone else listen carefully from outside, they might be able to pinpoint where it is coming from.

    I certainly hope it is nothing serious. Please let us know.
  • I have an 99 explorer and at 14,000 I had a knocking in my engine which I thought was lifters. Took into dealer, they replced engine with a rebuilt... Now I am at 78,000 miles and just took it in and they told me I had cracked head and gaskets needed to be replaced. I know one other person that had engine replaced and now I beleive I have a defected engine and that is why the head cracked. I am an easy driver and have never had the car overheat. I found a leak when I took it to have oil change at Jiffy lube. I would like to see if other people are having the same problems because I am writing a letter to Ford.
  • alman08alman08 Posts: 282
    at near 57k miles on mine, the tranny started to have rough downshifts. after the 60k miles service at the dealer which included a tranny flush, the tranny has been running very smooth again. you said your mechanic did the tranny flush for your car, however, were you referring your mechanic as a ford dealer? don't know if independent shops will have the proper equipment to do tranny flush on these transmissions.
    someone on here said there was a recall on these transmissions, but he didn't tell you that the recall did not apply to 02 models.
  • Does the 95 Explorer have an ignition relay switch? Turn the ignition and get a click but it does not crank. Flip the shift into park several times and it starts fine. Battery ok. New starter and solenoid. I need to know if this model has an ignition relay - before I do anything else. Getting expense!
  • kernkern Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info. What would be the down side of telling the dealership that we think we need a transmission flush and see if they come up with the trans-solenoid diagnosis?
  • kernkern Posts: 5
    A recall??? I hope you're right and I'm going to start checking into that. Thanks.
  • ajmtbmajmtbm Posts: 245
    no recall on the '02. there was on the '03 but i think it centered around the tranny being filled with the wrong fluid at the factory.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You know - my 94 developed a miss in the engine at about 120,000 miles. My son worked at the local Lincoln dealership, so I told him to have the techs check it out. They told us we needed a new engine and that one cylinder had a hole in the piston. I didn't want to put an engine in the truck being as old as it was, so we just gave it to my son's Girlfriend. Her dad put a new plug in that cylinder, and the truck's still running fine. You can't always trust the techs at the dealerships - even if you work there.... Get a second opinion. I wish I had.
  • I appreciate your comments, but in this case you are far out in left field. My comment about the service department being GREAT was very sincere and truthful. They ordered the part based on a response from another responder to my problem at my request. My vehicle was never checked by a service technician. They accepted my word and the responders word how my problem could be solved. At the time I took my vehicle in for the replacement is when it was discovered that there was no rear air due to no third row seats. Yes, I trust this service department completely because they have earned this trust over a 15 year period. I'm sorry that your experience with Ford Dealerships have been less than desirable, but there are always the exception. Just give them a try and work with them. You know that none of us are perfect, and we all make mistakes. Criticism comes easy and sometimes not due. I'm proud of the professionalism shown by this Dealerships Service Department and I'm very fortunate to be one of their customers for so long and am looking forward to continuing my relationship. Just hope and trust that you are having an experience that is satisfactory to you at the Dealership of your choice. Thanks again for your comments.
    By the way, I haven't heard the noise since the additional freon was installed.
  • I have a similar problem with my 2004 Mountaineer. When I come to a stop and go to put it in Park, the shift gets stuck just past Reverse and will not go further towards Park unless I stop pushing it, and then resume the shift. Then it will go into Park. So it will never go in one continuous shift from Drive into Park - I always have to pause at Reverse for a moment, and then resume.

    I am about to take it in for inspection and have them look at this. Would like to know what the real cause is so that I can tell the Dealership up front instead of only hoping that they fix it.
  • biomanbioman Posts: 172
    Your original message stated:
    "Want to update you on my previous problem. The service manager ordered an expansion valve to replace the faulty one assuming that my vehicle had rear air since it was an EB edition. Well, guess what. my vehicle doesn't have the third row seat; therefore no rear air and no expansion valve. My vehicle doesn't have a front expansion valve. The AC system was 2 oz low with freon so maybe that was causing my problem. We don't know. I will be picking up my vehicle today and will keep all posted if the problem was corrected.

    Should there any further information on this subject please advise me. My service department is simply GREAT and willing to assist in any way to cure the problem.

    Thanks for all the help."

    Now you state that a service tech never looked at your car and that you and another "responder" provided the information used to diagnose the problem and order parts. This is not a very good procedure to diagnose and repair a vehicle. Are you or the "responder" trained auto mechanics? You dealership's service manager may be a nice person, but the vehicle should have been checked out by a tech whose qualifications were a known entity. The service manager should not have trusted you and the "responder" he should have had the AC checked by one of the tech he works with. I remember bringing my Explorer in to a auto repair shop and I was sure that the problem was a bad front wheel bearing. The service manager responded with:"We'll see". Turns out that the tires had to be rotated. I may know something about cars, but I am not a trained automobile mechanic. You are right none of us are perfect. That is why we sometimes get a second opinion. In situations like this the second opinion must be preceded by knowledge gained from first hand observation by a trained professional.

    Now that we have all of the information, I think, one might be able to say that your dealership may not be that bad. In this case they made a bad decision based upon bad business practices.
  • Hi everyone, i am having a real big problem with my buddies 4x4 explorer. first off he was driving it and it needed front breaks bad, he dident know the extent of the problem but called me and asked if i would do it for him, so i did, what happend as he explained it was he was driving it and turned into his subdivision and hit the breaks the passenger side caliper locked up pulling the truck to the right and then he let off the breaks gave it a little gas and it was still pulling to the right he then hit the breaks again as pulling into his driveway and said he heard a "pop", well i pulled it appart and the pass. caliper had overextended and locked open due to the pad being woren down so far that it was metal on metal. he went and got new pads, both new front calipers and both rotors, i installed them, got it all back together blead the breaks with the pumping the pedel method, and when finished the pedel still went right to the floor, went through and re-blead just to be sure and there was no air, next thing we thought of was the master cylinder so we replaced it and blead the breaks again still no luck, talked to the guy at the parts store he said it needed to be power blead, so we brought the truck back to my place hooked up the power bleeder and and blead them again still no luck, so as of right now the truck has no breaks until the pedel is firmly pushed into the floor, we drove it around my yard and i checked out the fronts after and the rotors had not even heated up at all, it seems as if there is not break action in the front at all any ideas?, Thanks for the help
  • My problem is that on the front passenger side the lock button will unlock my locks but not lock them. The button is fine the actuator is fine and the wiring seems fine. There is power going to the door for unlocking it but it doesn't seem to have power for locking it. Tried to trace problem but am I missing something, a controler or breaker. Here's the funny thing the drivers side works all the locks just fine.
  • Ok, I have a 94 ford explorer as well. My problem seems similar to yours. I'll try to start it, it'll turn over but the engine doesn't fire (start). If I leave it for a'll start. My mechanic checked the battery and alternator and they were fine.....he said it was the fuel pump, so he replaced it. It was fine for a month or so........but my problem keeps coming back, happened again last night? Not sure what the heck is wrong? Any ideas? Could it be a relay?
  • I have this situation with my 94' Explorer. I'm not sure if it would be the same problem as your's but while I'm driving it, the RPM's will go up and the car will just shut off. It does this randomly whenever it wants. I then sit there for about ten minutes and then it will restart but I am trying to figure out why it shuts off randomly like that. If you could help that would be great thnx.
  • Sorry, mine doesn't do that when I drive. Just when I go to start it. I'm pretty sure it must be some sort of faulty wiring, a blown sensor, or a relay. Its hard to figure it out. My mechanic said he doesn't know unless it happens again.

    Good luck!
  • kernkern Posts: 5
    I was referring to my mechanic as in "no boat hitch" on the back of his truck. I will ask about the proper equipment that was referenced and see if he has it or not. Do you know if the dealer "flashed the computer"? How about the trans-solenoid, did it have to be replaced or serviced?
  • Any Idea why my ABS light goes on and off. . I'll start my car its off next time its on. Being doing this about 3 months. Brakes are good . Mechanic told me it may be worn wheel bearings. :cry:
  • Had the same thing happen to my '97 Eddie Bauer. I went to a you-wrench-it salvage yard and pulled a multi-function switch (3 screws to remove the steering wheel cowling and 2 star screws to remove the switch). Total cost $15 and 15 minutes to swap out. Local dealer was willing to do diagnostics on the electrical system and estimated somewhere between $500-$750 once they figured it out.
Sign In or Register to comment.