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Problem has been solved. I have been redeemed! No more stalls or starving at start. I also had stalling when coming off freeway (high speed to low) with nose pointing down.
My case was this - pulled tank - stem of fuel pump/sending unit combo was snapped/broken allowing that stem to float with full tank or fly around with empty tank. Also had crack in the hose that sucked up the fuel - probably had bad suction. AAAAaaaaaaaaaaaand - there is a small plastic reservoir that is attached to the gas tank, within the tank. It holds some fuel and I assume that fuel can stay in the res. and feed the pump when the tank around it has a low level of fuel. That res. is pressed in. Mine became loose and moved from where it should be. It was floating and banging around in the tank. Would hear it clanging around when stopping suddenly. That res. moving probably snapped the stem and broke it off. For me I wouldn't have known that unless I pulled the tank. Hope you get this solved.
Oh, and the Ford parts counter helped me see a schematic of the tank. You might ask them to show you to see if you have a reservoir w/in the tank. That res. is not sold separately. A new tank is an arm and a leg. I got a used one from the junk yard. Came off a Ford Explorer or maybe a comparable Mercury Mountaineer. Once again I can go loooooow and almost run out of gas if I want .
Another test might be to let the tank go low. Park w/nose pointing down but in a place where it's clear to coast to the level. Usually if I was in such a place I could turn key on but not crank engine, unlock steering, put gear in neutral, coast to level, wait a bit and then it would start and get me to the gas station.
At the service station, they pulled the codes and those indicated that the car had indeed stalled. Our service rep told us that we needed to get the PCM software upgraded.
That seems to have covered it. BTW, the car had a nearly full tank of gas at the time. Last weekend I tried to reproduce it, at the same driveway again, with less gas in tank and it was fine.
The plastic retainer tabs are designed to hold the male quick connect upset on fuel filter stems. To disconnect, you can buy a set of fuel line discconect tool set at Sears at about $10. You put the tool over fuel filter stems, and slide inside the quick connect. That disengages the plastics locking tabs from locking upset on fuel filter stems.
There so many different quick connect designs on fuel lines that is tough to say how to disengage one by hand. I have some small quick disconnect tools. E-mail me your address and I will send a 3/8" and a 5/16" tool. I think the fuel supply line has a 3/8" OD.
Lubricate the ends of fuel filter with some motor oil to prevent cutting the O-rings in fuel line connectors.
Joe
Appreciate any input/experience/suggestion
at 220000 miles and original tranny, would it be smart to replace them even if they can be adjusted?
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
My 2003 Explorer XLT sport 4x4 with 57K miles was doing this when I turned the wheel slightly and took off from stop, or when I was pulling in my driveway. Under my $800 extended powertrain warranty, the dealer replaced Trac lock clutches, ring & pinion, and all bearings . It appeared that the items were replaced under several TSB numbers.
Joe
BTW, the A/C motor on my 94 Explorer was giving me trouble a few days ago. Everytime I switched it to MAX the fan motor seemed to slow down. It turns out a plastic bag had gotten sucked up under the dash and was blocking the inlet. Fortunately it was too big to get into the fan motor. I pulled it out and it's been working great ever since.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks
2.9% APR financing for 48 months
3.9% APR financing for 60 months
5.9% APR financing for 72 months
You also can get $2007 cash back in addition to the low interest financing. If you don't take the low apr you can get an additonal $1000 cash back for a total of $3700. I've seen better incentives from Ford in the past.
The main thing to watch for is that you get the best deal you can get and then take off the rebate. Dealers will sometimes try to put the rebate on the front end making you think you're getting a better deal than you actually are.
There are also a lot of variables you didn't give here. Is it RWD or AWD? V6 or V8? Which running boards are you talking about?
I'd go to Edmunds.com and look at their new car pricing and True Market Value reports. It's not hard to navigate.
Good luck!
Sometimes, at the end of the model year, you might get a dealer to do slightly better but if the Dealer does, then they are not submitting it to X-plan and getting the commission. (or they are and they are hopeing they won't get audited in the next 2 years. This means they are going to be taking a really really crappy deal.
There is nothing about the Explorer that you described that suggest that a dealer should take a really crappy deal on it. For instance its not one of the Orange Ironman editions.
The Whole point of X-plan is to provide the plan member with a great low price and the CONVENIENCE of not having to haggle.
Mark.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF
Thanks for the reply
When you first turn the key you might hear a 5 sec buzz from the back if the fuel pump is working.....
Mark.
Is this a carb, or fuel injected engine? And what makes you think that not getting gas is the problem, is there some other history of problems that you'd like to share? You could just as well have a bad ignition switch, battery, coil, timing chain, etc.
What can I do with this?
Check your carspace mailbox (mailbox link is upper right corner 'mailbox'). I've sent you some info which should help.
I checked it and there is nothing there.
Edit...okay, have resent. Please check again. If you don't have, try sending yourself a note from your own other personal address to make sure your carspace mail is working correctly. Or else, send a note to me with a different email to send to, whatever is easiest.
Again,
Thanks alot
Cindy
Hi Paul, my name is Rosemary, We had a 2002 Ford Explorer. I put it in gear and the shift lever bar broke out of the steering column. My husband was told by our local ford parts dealer. The steering column (Part number 4L2Z-3C529-DA) for the 02 Ford Explorers, is not available. The steering column has been on back order for over 5-1/2 months. Our Son went on the Internet and bought a brand new ford factory, steering column that will fit the 2002 Ford Explorer and Ford Mountaineer - with this (Part number 5L2Z-3C529-A). Paul, you still looking for a steering column? if so - have ford order this (Part number 5L2Z-3C529-A). it will fit, Good Luck Rosemary.
Stavros IT WILL FIT, GOOD LUCK, Paul
The side mirror circuit (which is hot all the time), has nothing to do with the computer. Running from the mirror switch up to the battery using the schematics, there is a 5amp fuse F2.16, then a 60 amp fuse on p13-9 F1.29, then the battery.
If the fuses 'appear' okay, then get out a digital multi-meter and start measuring the voltage from the battery out toward the switch to see where you loose the voltage.
btw, you have turned the mirror switch to the left to select the left mirror....correct? and then to the right to select the right mirror.
The front end will also need an inspection by an expert, as the popping and dragging could come from several sources. You can check the most obvious parts by checking to see if the brakes are dragging or if any front end parts are loose.
Good Luck,
E.D. ISF