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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • whatever1979whatever1979 Member Posts: 4
    It's a 6 cylinder but it's not a 4x4. The O/D light flashes non-stop very rapidly after the vehicle has been turned on and it stays on until vehicle has been turned off. I had a diagnostic done and they think it could be the "Solenoid sensor"? We'll see...
  • point3point3 Member Posts: 2
    ...CAN SOMEBODY TELL ME WHERE TO LOCATE DE TURNING LIGHT FLASHER ON MY 1998 FORD EXPLORER?...I OPENED UNDER THE DASH AND I DONT SEE ANY FLASHER BOX THERE.
    PROBLABLY I LOOKING IN THE WRONG PLACE..PLEASE HELP!!!
  • point3point3 Member Posts: 2
    MY TRUCK IS A 1998 FORD EXPLORER 4X2, 6 CYL.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    This is the way it is on my 1997 Explorer, V8. The 1998 is probably the same.
    It is near the brake pedal switch. The turn signal flasher plugs into a 5 pin connector.
  • sbccruz2005sbccruz2005 Member Posts: 1
    In the owner's manual it states that when the OD light flashes rapidly it could be a transmission problem and to have it checked right away to avoid severe repair. The OD has to do with your Over Drive, so how would that be a Solenoid problem? I have the same problem with my Explorer. It only happens when I'm trying to accelerate too fast and it causes the gears to not shift properly. In researching the problem I found that my vehicle has a sealed transmission system, I can't even pull a dip stick out to check and see if I have enough transmission fluid. I have to take it into a service shop. Just thought I'd let you know that.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    The OD has to do with your Over Drive, so how would that be a Solenoid problem?

    If the OD light is a trouble indicator for your transmission, to give you early warning before you end up stranded by the road - what difference does it make that it says OD instead of "Your solenoid is failing"? Take the advice, get it checked, and it's not fluid level - it's an internal failure or program failure.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    nvbanker is right, the OD light is an indicator to let you know that something is wrong in the transmission. You have to get the get the diagnostic codes read from the computer to see where the problem lies. It could possibly be a number of different things.
    Sbccruz2005 does not seem to know much about transmissions, not knowing the relationship of the Over Drive shift to the Solenoid. For your information, all the shifts in modern automatic transmissions are controlled by electric solenoids. The computer sends a signal to each solenoid to control each shift. There is a solenoid for every shift, the 1-2 solenoid, the 2-3 solenoid, the 3-4 solenoid, and the Torque Converter Lockup solenoid. Over Drive is 4th gear, so the 3-4 solenoid controls the shift into Over Drive. If the solenoid malfunctions, the shift will malfunction. Or if the hydraulic valves or circuits malfunction the shift will malfunction.
    This is coming from a guy who has sucessfully rebuilt many automatic transmissions. I have worked as a mechanic for a Chrysler Dealer, an Amc Dealer, a Chevrolet Dealer and Ammco Transmissions. I have retired from that work now.
    So bottom line is to heed the warning of the flashing OD light, it is doing it's job by telling you that something is wrong. Only be reading the computer codes can you know what the problem is. Any reputable transmission shop or dealer can read the codes and give you a diagnosis and an estimate.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • whatever1979whatever1979 Member Posts: 4
    I took it to get a diagnostic and it came up with 3 codes: the solenoid, the PCM or it could be the wiring. Well I ordered the solenoid had that put on and the light still came on so now we know it is in the wiring so that's next to check.

    Thanks
  • mrandy62mrandy62 Member Posts: 5
    I have a '92 Explorer, 300k+ miles (no kidding). Pulling a trailer, engine overheated. Added water, got it back home. Added more water only to see steady leak coming out of an area on passenger side of engine below valve cover. No water in oil. Some steam coming out exhaust, hard to tell (I live outside Houston, it's cold and humid) Any way to tell if it's a cracked head, blown gasket or cracked engine block without tearing into it? If so, what's the ballpark cost for do-it-myself repairs? Also, anybody ever tried this stuff called Steel Seal? Just saw it advertised on the internet $45 a qt. for repairing cracked heads, etc. "Money back guarantee" but I'm skeptical. Any assistance appreciated.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    If it is leaking like you say, especially steam out the exhaust, it will need to come apart anyway to fix it. You might try some of that Cooling System sealer called Bars Leak Pelletized Sealer. I used it before with good results for 2 months. It is not a permanent fix, but it can get you by for a while until you can get ready to pull the head. That sealer you describe sounds a lot like that stuff they sell in a tube called JB Weld, costs about $4 or $5. I don't think it will be able to seal the leak if the coolant is leaking into the combustion chamber and out the exhaust. You would have to clean the area of the leak very well, then you might try the sealant. The worst it could do is not work. If it doesn't work, then it's time to pull the head.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • mrandy62mrandy62 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the confirmation reply, I was afraid of that. I do recall others using the Bars Leak Sealer years ago with good results too. Thanks again.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    02 explorer xlt v8
    has anyone changed spark plugs on his 02 to 05 v8 explorers yet? mine has 100400 miles on it, wanted to have the plugs changed but dealer quoting $450. the plugs are coiled over...
  • m1ashooterm1ashooter Member Posts: 2
    How hard is it and what do you have to do to replace burnt out dash lights in a 97 explorer.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Not 100% sure on the Explorer, but on most modern cars, your dash lights are diodes integrated into your circuit board, and can't be replaced. You just by the circuit board and put the whole thing in. $250 is usually the cost for the board. I'd drive with a flashlight taped to my steering wheel pointed at the dash before I'd tackle the change out.....but that's just me... :shades:
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    You have to remove the instrument cluster. It has replaceable light bulbs on the back side.
  • daryll44daryll44 Member Posts: 307
    My wife and I noticed that our 2003 Mountaineer V8 seems to have gotten very loud. It's hard to tell what's going on, if anything....perhaps it's just getting older....it was purchased in September 2002 and now has 68,000 miles on it.

    The tires are Michelin MS LTX and have about half the tread left (maybe even less). Could it be the worn tires that got louder? I looked for exhaust leaks but could find none on a casual inspection. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Getting old in itself does not make the vehicle louder. An old vehicle can run, drive and sound like a new one, if properly cared for. Does it sound louder when rolling down the road, compared to when the vehicle is stopped.? Does the sound change with road speed? If so, it could be the tires. Do the tires ride smooth? Have the tires been balanced lately? Has the front end alignment been checked lately? A good thing to keep in the glove compartment is a tire tread depth guage, available at any auto parts store for about $4 or $5. Keep it next to your tire pressure gauge. You can use it to measure how much Tread is left on the tire, measured in 32nds of an inch. When you measure at several points around the tire and also on the inside and outside portions of the tread, you can see how evenly or unevenly the tire is wearing, If you compare one tires measurements against another, you can see how evenly or unevenly they compare to each other. What kind of sound do you hear, kind of a light roaring, groaning, whistling, or rumbling? Rolling noise can also come from the drivetrain, wheel bearings, ect.
    Does it sound louder when stopped with the engine running? Does the sound change with engine speed? Have someone stand beside the vehicle in Park and "Blip" the gas peddel once in a while, and see if the person outside can hear any exhaust sounds as they walk around the vehicle. Exhaust sounds can be deceiving, they can sound like a roar if a big leak, but small leaks can sound like small discharges, whooses or even clicking type noises.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • hoptoadhoptoad Member Posts: 2
    I have the same half lit dashboard problem on my 1995 Explorer XL I'm sure one or 2 bulbs are burnt out but I don't know how to get the dashboard apart.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    For a 1997 Ford Explorer, a 1995 may be similar:
    It is a pain to do this. Lots of screws amd lots of plastic to carefully and patiently bend and remove.

    1. Remove the lower plastic panel under the steering wheel, it has 2 screws from underneath on each side, and 2 screws to remove on the hood release. Once the screws are out on the bottom, grab the panel at the top corners and pull it straight back towards the rear of the vehicle. It will come off, but notice it has 2 "prong" fasteners, one on each side. Take a good look an them to see how they come apart and go back together, because you will see more of these. Set the lower plastic cover and screws aside.

    2. The plastic cover that surounds the radio and air condtioner control comes loose next, It has 2 screws that are located below the radio, they screw upwards. Remove the 2 screws and then pull the cover along with the radio and a/c control out from the dash a bit. Carefully try to move it out from the dash as far as you can without unpluging anything, maybe an inch or two. You will need all the slack that you can get.

    3. The plastic cover above the steering wheel comes off next. It surrounds the instrument cluster. It has 2 screws at the bottom, and 3 screws right above the instrument cluster, that screw upward. Remove all the screws, and pull the panel outward, pulling at the top corners, as each top corner has a "Prong" fastener that pulls out of the dash support. This part takes a lot of patience and "fanagling" to get it out. If you have a tilting steering wheel, you will have to angle it down. You will have to lower the gearshift lever down. The Panel will have the headlight switch and the dash dimmer module with wiring on the left side that will REMAIN connected. You must try to carefully wiggle the cover out to clear the dash and raise the right side up and rotate it to the left side.

    4. Once the panel is out and swung to the left side, and safely hanging by the headlight switch wires, you will see 4 screws that hold the instrument cluster in, two on each side, top and bottom. Remove the 4 screws and carefully pull the instrument cluster part way out. It has 3 electrical plug connectors on the back that are very hard to reach. They must be unpluged if you need to remove the instument cluster. You may not have to completely remove the Instrument Cluster, as I was able to reach behind mine and change a light bulb, leaving the electric plugs untouched. The light bulbs are special made to screw onto the printed circuit board, they twist and turn to come out, and go back in the same way. Be careful to not damage the printed circuit board. Once the bulbs are replaced, be sure to turn on the dash lights and test them to be sure that they work, before fastening the Instrument Cluster back in place.

    5. Once the panel lights are working ok, put everything back together in reverse order of dissassembly and test them again.

    For the moderator, I have never seen any pictures in these messeges. Is there a way to post pictures in these messeges or to attach them some way? It would make explaining things a lot easier.

    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • hoptoadhoptoad Member Posts: 2
    Wow. Thanks E.D. I'm not sure I want to tackle that. This is what I found on WikiAnswers:
    Q. How do you replace the lights in the dash of 1991 through 2001 Ford Explorer all models?
    A.
    Remove the screws from the top of the instrument panel. Set the parking brake and pull the shift lever down to improve access. Rotate the instrument panel to gain access to the back. The black bulb holders house the panel lights, the tan bulb holders house the sensor lights. Reach behind and grip the back of one of the holders. Twist it counter clockwise and pull outwards. Burned out bulbs will have a black coating. Replace with an identical bulb (194).

    I didn't think it could be that easy. What are they talking about?
    Thanks again,
    Jim from Sunny and COLD Colorado
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Wow, Colorado, it must be beautiful there, with that Rocky Mountain high and all. I've never seen it, wish I could. I'm stuck down here in all this warm sunny weather!

    Yes they gave you the very short version of how to do it. Their version is oversimplified, but it's not so hard that you can't do it. Just go at it slow and careful and you can do it. It will be good experience and it will help you to appreciate the "good old days" when you could just reach up under the dash and change the dash light bulbs.

    You must remove the lower panel under the steering wheel, because the top of it covers the 2 lower screws of the panel above the steering wheel. It comes off just like I said.

    You must remove the plastic cover that surrounds the radio and a/c control because the left side of it covers the the right side of the panel above the steering wheel. It comes off just like I said.

    The simple instructions said to pull down the shift lever for better acess, same as I said.

    The simple instuctions said to remove the screws from the top of the panel above the steering wheel. I said to remove those 3 screws plus the two at the bottom of that same panel. It pulls out and you rotate it to the right, leaving the headlight switch wires attached. It comes off just like I said.

    Once the panel above the steering wheel is out of the way, you see the instrument cluster and the 4 screws that hold it in. You remove the 4 screws and pull the insturment cluster out. It comes out just like I said. You may have to only pull it out part way to reach the light bulbs you need to replace. It is more difficult to remove it entirely because you have to twist it around and unplug the 3 electric connectors from the back of it.

    Once you have acess to the back of the instrument cluster, it is just like the simple instructions and I said, you simply twist the plastic bulbs and pull them out. The smaller tan ones are the smaller indicator light bulbs. The larger black ones are the dashboard illumination light bulbs.

    Just go ahead and do it, and you will see how everything fits as you go along. It will be fairly obvious as you go along. Just go one step at a time, one panel at a time. If you should get stuck, you can always put it back together. Print out these messeges so that you can have them beside you for reference as you do the job. You need some small 1/4 inch drive sockets or small nut drivers to remove the hex head screws.
    Let us know how it goes.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Yes, it can - but usually not the case with Michelins.
  • jlc10719jlc10719 Member Posts: 1
    My car has 44k miles and driving over speed bumps or slow turns makes a strange sqeaking noise. Does not feel like the car is handling any different but the noise is getting a little worse. I do have an appt later in the week, was just hoping to get more info before speaking to the dealership.
  • explorerkyexplorerky Member Posts: 3
    I have an '02 Explorer and it made front end noises on speed bumps, turns, etc. My front right arm had to be replaced.
  • d1725829d1725829 Member Posts: 1
    My windshield wipers sometimes only work on high speed. I was told there is a governor in the wiper system that goes bad and causes that. Anybody here this before ? Does anyone know where the interval wiper module is located on a 1991 Explorer ?
  • moviegunsmovieguns Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Explorer XLT V-6 that keeps showing the Check Engine light. Also, the engine chugs, pops, shudders and shivers. My local dealer (Galpin Ford) is unable to diagnose the problem. I have been forced to install new spark plugs about every 2000 miles, when the engine begins acting up. In addition to new plugs, I have new plug wires, new ignition module, I run 91 octane gas and I have had my injectors cleaned. A second delaer confirmed the diagnosis of the first and that is, "we don't know what the problem is". The only code shows fouled plugs. HELP!!!!
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I also have a 2000 Explorer XLT, but mine is a 5.0L V8, but there are a lot of things about engines that are similar in general. I am amazed that 2 different dealers can not figure out what is wrong with your vehicle. I doubt I can do much more over the internet, but I'll try, and I'm a little short on time tonight. So, explain exactly what is happening to the spark plugs that requires them to be replaced. Mine lasted 100,000 miles and still looked pretty good when I replaced them. If yours foul, are they wet black or dry black? Any sign of any physical damage, like to the electrodes or insulator? If they are fouling, it has to be determined if they are fouling with fuel or with oil. Do all the plugs look the same or similar? If the engine is running this bad, the exhaust will be polluted and will damage the catalytic converter. Check the exhaust to be sure the exhaust gas is coming out freely. What about the running of the engine, what happens as the problem progresses? Does the problem first appear as a high speed miss? Or bad idle or what? What DTC does the computer throw when the check engine light comes on? We need to check fuel system, ignition system, and exhaust system. Any possiblity the cam timing could have slipped? When the plugs are replaced, does the engine run as good as it's supposed to? Just give us as much concise information as you can, and we will see what we come up with.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • sandpusher1sandpusher1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all,
    New to the boards. Mom has the above Merc. She has been having a rumbling noise while driving. I do have some experience. I have narrowed it down to the front drive shaft. My question is, How do you remove the transfer case end of this shaft?
    It is a c/v type joint. Does it just pop out like a regular c/v? Does it have a clip on the end of the shaft that just takes a good smack to remove it or what needs to be done.
    Thanks in advance
  • moviegunsmovieguns Member Posts: 3
    E.D.,

    Thanks for the pretty comprehensive reply. After changing plugs (3 of 6 fouled with fuel, wet), the engine runs like it's supposed to run. As time goes by, I will notice a high speed miss every so often. Then, it will occur with more frequency and become more severe as well. Then the miss will become constant at both high speed, lower speed and at idle. Starting will produce a sharp "thump" as the engine turns over. Then comes the exhaust fumes as the engine runs very rich. Does this help you at all?
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    I don't mean to ignore you, but have been very busy, I bought a 2004 Toyota Highlander last weekend, I've got to service the other cars, and I've got to get the stuff together to do my taxes and get them done, so i'm short on time.
    Too many variables here, the miss is coming from the plugs fouling, so the problems boils down to what is fouling the plugs, could be too much fuel, could be bad ignition. I would check the spark at the end of each spark plug wire (don't get shocked), one wire at a time with engine running. See how long an arc you can draw from each wire to ground. All the arcs should be about the same length (over an inch long). A short arc means you found weak fire at a plug wire. Investigate the plug wire and/or coil pack to see where the problem is.
    Otherwise, someone is going to have to scope out the engine and do a proper diagnosis. You are just going to have to find a knowlegdable mechanic somewhere.
    Good luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    A few more things:
    Since the plugs were wet, are you sure that the plugs are fouled with fuel? Could it be oil fouling? Look closely, try heating the metal body of the fouled plug with a torch, if it is fuel it will burn off and dry quickly. If it is fuel, I would continue to look into ignition, as I said before. If you are sure there is no problem with the ignition system, then check the fuel system.
    If the plugs are fouled with oil, then you are looking at a different type problem, usually oil comes up past the piston rings, or past valve guides. If oil is on the plugs, do a compression check on the cylinders to be sure rings are sealing, however good compression alone does not insure that the oil control rings are working well, so it may take some interpretation of both compression readings and manifold vacuum readings.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • thestugots01thestugots01 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 explorer 4.0 6cyl. 4x4, and it ran great for the last year. Then just today it decided to act up, the engine sounded like it was bogging and just running like crap, then the check engine light came on and the CEL was blinking, what is the problem here, and what does a blinking cel like mean?

    thanks for any help,

    mike
  • dave166dave166 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '94 explorer 4x4 and while replacing the balljoints I broke the cast metal shroud that surrounds the abs sensor on the disc rotor side because I could not remove the small 12 pt. headed bolt. I have not found that part in my manual nor on any parts web sites for order. I do not think it is critical to the operation of the system since there is another bolt holding the sensor in place from the other side of the knuckle, however, it does appear to be a protective part for the sensor and I would like to have it fixed. Anyone know where to get one and what it's called? I really do not want to try the junkyard ticket.
  • moviegunsmovieguns Member Posts: 3
    Look into a Chilton manual. If that fails, try your local Ford dealer.
  • rusierusie Member Posts: 3
    4.0 OHV engine runs rough intermittently.Scanner shows engine is running lean.O2 sensors show o voltage.Ive been told its a vacuum leak.Ive listened and sprayed to find a leak.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • driverd0544driverd0544 Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2000 Explorer sport with 46,000 miles from an estate sale. 4.0 V-6, "X" Vin code for the engine. Completely dolled up with all the bells and whistles, power everything, and a beautiful black paint job with gray and white accents. This auto is spotless and I absolutely love it! Before the purchase I had it checked by a dealer and independent garage in the state it came from. Their reports were that all is OK with the vehicle. I, being the over cautious person who is totally anal over any small item and having a background in the auto repair industry, (back when anyone could still repair them without computer diagnostics), have noticed a rattle/knocking noise from the lower part of the engine---or at least it appears to be from that area, when at an idle. Haven't noticed any other noises when driving down the road, but also haven't stuck my head under there while the vehicle is in motion. When the engine is shut off it also has the same noise, except a bit louder until the engine stops its motion. Almost seems as something is loose? I do all my own maintainance, and have not noticed any metallic particulate in the oil that would be indicative of a lower engine problem. Anyone shed any light on this subject for me?

    Thanks
  • m1ashooterm1ashooter Member Posts: 2
    Hello

    1996 Explorer with power windows. The passenger side electric windows will not work from that side, both front and rear. The master control on the drivers side can raise and lower the passenger sides windows. Is this a fuse issue?
  • gyatesgyates Member Posts: 55
    It is a vacuum leak. The leak is where the plastic air intake plenum attaches to the top of the engine. There are some gaskets in there that go bad. I just had mine done on my '97 OHV. Cost a little over $100, inlcuding labor. The leak is almost impossible to find. Fix the leak first before worrying about O2 sensors.

    If you need some help, try this site, http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php.
  • enforcerenforcer Member Posts: 40
    Have not posted here for years so I thought I would provide an update (the Happy Ford Explorer Owners thread is long gone!)

    My '97 exploder now has 95,000 miles and still running strong (knock wood). We used to change the oil every 3-4 months but given the low mileage have bumped that back to 6 months. Every 2 years I take it to my mechanic who does his version of the 30-60-90 service which usually involves filter changes, transmission flush, etc. Replaced the radio with a cheap Alpine removable faceplate (Ford wanted $600 to install a CD changer - nuts!) and the battery a few years ago.

    Replaced the original deathstone tires at 71k miles (mine were never recalled) - so far the Michelins ride and wear nicely. I bought a lifetime alignment package from the local Firestone dealer (@$139 at the time) which has already paid for itself as the roads here are so bad that we need a new alignment every 6 months.

    So far the only major problems have been a broken thermostat, a/c leak (Ford never figured it out but my mechanic found the container leak), burned out dash light and broken seat lever (rusted). Not bad, but again I knock wood.

    I actually returned for an edmunds visit because the thermostat broke (again) and I wanted to find the TSB.

    Good luck to everyone with your exploders. Occasionally I think about replacing it with a more fuel efficient vehicle but the fuel savings would be more than offset by the payments. And the vehicle has held up far better than my brother's BMW X5.

    Is there still a working link to the Perpetual Ford Explorer Woes thread? The one in the first post is kaput.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Congrats on the longevity of your Explorer!

    The Perpetual Ford Explorer Woes discussion (as well as the Happy Owners one) got moved to the archives, and then the archives broke. They are still out there supposedly, and every once in a while we hear a rumor that they may get linked back.

    I guess you'll have to fix the thermostat and drive yours for another decade and hope those discussions come back in the meantime!
  • dave166dave166 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. The Ford dealer was my next move. After driving the vehicle for a few days, the abs light on the dash came on, so I'll probably have to fix something else now.
  • starlite1starlite1 Member Posts: 1
    In ebay there was a product which actually boosts your HP and gives very good mileage. Apparently it says that the installation is simple, does not harm warranty and has no side effects. Anyone out there knows a thing or two about it? Does it really not have any side effects at all?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds too good to be true, doesn't it?

    Check out Are Chip Upgrades Worth It? while waiting for responses. Check out post 75 there.
  • aberfoyleaberfoyle Member Posts: 6
    Hello,

    This is my first post and hopefully the first of many to come. Before my sophmore year of college Fall 04' started I got a 2000 5.0L V8 Ford Explorer with around 59,000 miles. Currently, the car has around 84,000 miles! I have come to this forum for some advice on how to maintain the car for years to come and hopefully continue to drive it, I am not car expert and any advice is greatly appreciated! I change the oil every 3000 miles usually and use the 87 gas in it.

    Recently I had a coolant leak and took the car into a mechanic. The V8 must be a tight pack especially to get to certain parts down low. I was told I needed to replace 4 hoses including the hose with the leak, and have it flushed. I was also having problems starting my car via turning the key only. Usually to start the car I had to turn the key and give the car gas. RPM would idle around .4 or .5. The check engine light was also on and when diagnosed said some sort of air valve needed to be replaced and something needed to be cleaned, which was related to my car not starting properly. Now that I paid them 665 bucks its seems to work great!

    Now that I am to this point, What sort of things can I do in order to drive this car for years to come. Thanks for your time!

    Kevin
  • aberfoyleaberfoyle Member Posts: 6
    Hello,

    This is my first post and hopefully the first of many to come. Before my sophmore year of college Fall 04' started I got a 2000 5.0L V8 Ford Explorer with around 59,000 miles. Currently, the car has around 84,000 miles! I have come to this forum for some advice on how to maintain the car for years to come and hopefully continue to drive it, I am not car expert and any advice is greatly appreciated! I change the oil every 3000 miles usually and use the 87 gas in it.

    Recently I had a coolant leak and took the car into a mechanic. The V8 must be a tight pack especially to get to certain parts down low. I was told I needed to replace 4 hoses including the hose with the leak, and have it flushed. I was also having problems starting my car via turning the key only. Usually to start the car I had to turn the key and give the car gas. RPM would idle around .4 or .5. The check engine light was also on and when diagnosed said some sort of air valve needed to be replaced and something needed to be cleaned, which was related to my car not starting properly. Now that I paid them 665 bucks its seems to work great!

    Now that I am to this point, What sort of things can I do in order to drive this car for years to come. Thanks for your time!

    Kevin
  • fabulousjlfabulousjl Member Posts: 6
    yeah i went to the wheel and tire store.. and they told me i couldnt put bigger than 16" wheels on my 1999 Ford Explorer because of the high roll over rating.. can i put 17" rims on and still be safe?
  • jmartyjmarty Member Posts: 2
    I have a 93 explorer eddie bauer with 115,000 miles on it. It was running good until 2 months ago. Now when i'm on the highway or going up a hill it starts to hesitate, sputters and then loses speed. It runs good up until 55 or 60 mph on the highway. Any ideas?

    I also had to replace one of the vacuum plugs 2 or 3 times. One of them keeps falling off, and the stem had some kind of fluid on it, anyone know what fluid it could be and why it's there? I'm kind of a rookie when it comes to repaires, and appreciate any advice. Thanks
  • tulsahogtulsahog Member Posts: 64
    The spare on my 2002 Explorer has never been used. It is time to replace the tires and was wondering if the spare could be used as one of the replacements even though it is about 6 yr and 3 months old.

    2 out of 3 dealers I called said if there were no visible cracks or ageing signs, it is ok to use. It looks like new with no cracks. Tire is a Goodyear RT/S and would buy 3 more identical tires if spare can be used.
  • electricdesignelectricdesign Member Posts: 681
    Keep up all regular maintenance, and it will last a long time.

    My 2000 V8 XLT has 150,000 miles and runs perfect, and I will drive it until 2011, when it will have about 200,000 miles on it. Then I will sell it to some lucky person who will drive it for yet a much longer time.

    Start with the basics, what kind of oil and fliter do you use. The 3k change is good with regular oil, but I use the synthetic oils and filter, Mobile One, it cost more but lasts longer and protects better. With synthetics, you can extend your oil/filter changes to 5,000 miles or even 7,500 miles. I do mine at every 7,500, which winds up to be about twice a year for me.

    Every 3K or 5K or 7.5K, whatever you choose, do the "normal sevice", Lube, Oil & Filter, plus check all the fluid levels, check all light bulbs, check battery, check fan belt, check cooling system, check spark plug wires, check-air-rotate tires, check brakes, check under chasis for any oil leaks and exhaust system, add 12 oz gas treatment to a full tank of gas, lubricate hinges, latches and window channels.

    Every 15K, in addition to the above, replace the air filter.

    Every 30K, in addition to the above, flush transmission fluid & new transmission filter, replace fuel filter, flush the brake fluid.

    Every 60K, some people will do the transmission flush and filter at 60K intervals instead of 30K intervals.

    Every 60K to 100K it may need spark plug wires. If you gap the spark plugs a little closer than the specified .054" gap ( I set mine at about .045" gap) the spark plug wires will last longer, because the voltage does not build up quite as high and stress the insulation.

    Every 100K replace the spark plugs.

    When replacing tires, have the front end checked and aligned. Mine needed ball joints at 140K miles. The rest of the original front end remains strong and true.
    Good Luck,
    E.D. in Sunny Florida
  • chandykchandyk Member Posts: 17
    99 Explorer XLT, 83K miles, all maintenance up to date.

    I was driving Explorer at night. The lights for the cruise on the steering wheel are illuminated on right side (Rsm, Accel). However, ON and OFF on left side are not visible at night.

    I cannot remember if they ever were lit or not. Can you confirm?

    Also, if they are supposed to be lit up, how do I fix it? Fuse? Light bulb?

    Thanks!
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