Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

njdevilsrn · June 2001

Hello, I have a 2000 XLS, just hit 12000 miles today. About a month and a half ago, I noticed the coolant reservoir was completely empty, so I refilled it. About 3 weeks ago, I noticed it was about halfway down, so I filled it to the line again. Took it to the dealer yesterday, they checked it and said it was a-ok - pressure check, and oil was ok. No puddles where I park, no white smoke, nothing. They said they will look into it further if it continues, but I don't know what else to check.

mazman1 · June 2001

I have an idea.

When you come back from a trip of > 15 mins. Park in your driveway (hopefully on a level surface) and put a cardboard under the radiator/ engine area. Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Look for puddles. What this will do is check to see if there is any leak in the system after the thermostat has opened up and the engine is warm. It might be something as silly as a loose upper hose.

BTW, the dealers always say that, and they want you to come back for more service when the problem repeats.

Also, saw the NJ/Colorado game. Sorry they lost... but it was a good run. Their goalie was really having a good day. Maybe next year.

Good luck.

keto · June 2001

I'm thinking about keeping my '93 explorer that's been a great truck. It has 83k miles on it and I'm wondering if there are any relatively inexpensive ways to enhance engine performance such as custom air filter, fuel injector system, exhaust etc. Anyone have an older V6 OHV 160HP they have experimented with, or can recommend any good sites I might look at. I don't want to fix something that ain't broke, but would like to get a little more HP. Thanks.

hodog16 · June 2001

Hello,

I'm new to this board, and I've read the messages on this topic back until February, so forgive me if this question was discussed before then.

On my family's 1998 EB 2WD V6, we've been experiencing hesitation problems lately. It first occurred a few weeks ago, when the car would jerk and hesitate when I tried to accelerate when going 50+mph.

I took the car into service and they said that this problem was addressed in a service bulletin, and they recoded the computer to fix the problem.

Well, things were good for awhile, but then we found the same problem again, as well as the same hesitation now at idling. When these hesistations occurr at idling, the tach needle dips to around 500rpm.

The dealer on the second visit couldn't find any codes on the computer to fix, and these problems only occur after driving the car for awhile. anybody else experience this problem? Thanks for any help!

BTW, the explorer is confined to the garage for awhile, since it has 35,930 miles on it.

mazman1 · June 2001

You might have water in your gas tank or bad gas. What you can do it put some gas dryer/water remover in the tank and drive it at highway speed for about 20 mins and see if it improves. As a matter of course, I add a bottle of Gumout Extra fuel injection cleaner every oil change. That's what the dealer probably did when you had them check out your vehicle.

I would also try a different gas station. And I would not let the gauga go below 1/4 tank for a while. My explorer runs best with Mobil 87 octane. I've tried Exxon and Ammoco and they are ok as well. My truck runs worst with Getty, Gulf and Texaco.

Good luck

swschrad · June 2001

possibility of a lazy oxygen sensor exists... also issues with the EGR valve or vacuum lines in general have bedeviled me as well with similar symptoms. check over your vacuum lines really carefully, anything with funnelled or cracking ends needs to be replaced. it's sorta sensor roulette with multiple O2 sensors if that is the issue, so since no codes are being stuck, I'd do cheap things first, also replace the PVC valve just on general principle. if the vehicle acts up at a safe place to pop the hood and hink around with it, try hitting all vacuum hose ends/fittings with a little shot of water or window solvent in a spray bottle... if you catch one and the fumble or jitter stops or idle speed goes back up, you have a part or hose that has a leak to fix. I finally got stuck with an O2 sensor replacement when my Ranger 2.3L started up at -25 degrees but died hard just as the temperature was starting to rise on the engine.

broph · June 2001

just under the can nose. i have a 96 & sometimes it stays right in the middle. My neighbor thinks that it could be a bad sending unit. Has anyone had a similar problem & was it costly to fix? Thanks

Tom

smily1 · June 2001

I had a 95 ranger with the 3.0 that had the same problem. Sometimes it was fine and others it was goofy. I changed the oil and it was fixed. Found out through my father-in-law (Ford mechanic) that it is common with fords especially with the "green" oil from the factory. Obviously this is not your case but you might want to try using a synthetic oil or at least a blend and see if that dosnt take care of it. Try Mobile or Valvoline full synthetic.

gpdlt · June 2001

I had LTX A/T's installed on my 1991 Explorer at Sam's Club at 54,000 they are still going strong at 156,000. Keep them properly rotated and balanced and you should enjoy a long life out of them.

smithbauer · June 2001

J.D. Power's own quality survey has just named the 2001 Expedition as the highest quality full-size SUV you can buy. Sequoia came in fifth...lots of issues, which is uncharacteristic for Toyota...but perhaps they bit off too much with this launch into a new product segment. Read the Sequoia Town Hall postings to get a feel for the issues Toyota faithful are dealing with...

Also, the NHTSA website for crash test results (http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/testing/ncap/), indicates that Expedition is the only SUV that has ever received double five star crash ratings. The new Tahoe scored only three stars for the driver. The Sequoia hasn't been rated yet by NHTSA, but the Tundra on which it is based also scored only three stars...the Sequoia being heavier but with a common front frame design could be worse. I don't know why Ford hasn't used this in their advertising, but I have seen it on the window stickers of new Expeditions.

ace10 · June 2001

i'm no fan of the crash ratings systems but...

check out the ratings by the insurance institute for highway safety. the f-150 crumpled up like a paper airplane and the tundra was rock solid.

it's all a matter of agendas and viewpoints.

ace

masonmi · June 2001

The other day I had my oil changed and the dealership left off my oil cap, I noticed it today and found it under the hood, and put it back on, I only have driven it for about 15 miles with the cap off, would that have done any damage or would have dirt gotten into my engine?

mazman1 · June 2001

That is quite surprising to hear about the Expedition being better than the Toyota, especially since it is built on the same frame as the F150, which did so poorly in the crash tests.

Gotta just hope those airbags work!

mazman1 · June 2001

I'll give you a couple of answers:

1. Probably did nothing bad to your engine, but if the cap fell off its perch and hit the fan and richochet all over the engine, you might have lost your brakes, power steering, or worse on a highway and lost control.

2. Go on the assumption that the dealer drones just dont care. Check over the fluid levels before you leave the dealership. Check the oil dipstick. Check the things they are supposed to touch. Did they put on all the lug nuts back on the wheels? I once had Ford dealer flush my radiator. They forgot to refill it with fresh fluid and water... they just drained it and replaced the caps. It was a good thing I checked before I drove off, or else I would have ruined the engine.
I also had a different Ford dealer that left off 2 lug nuts on one of my wheels after a tire rotation.

Good luck

broph · June 2001

Thanks I'll give it a try.

Tom

captdavid · June 2001

New to this board so if this has been discussed please excuse me. On occasion (maybe every two weeks or so) our 1995 will not start. It turns over and then dies out. So we wait ten to 30 minutes and it starts up and away we go! No problem for another two weeks. The truck has about 60,000 miles and has been well mantained. Needless to say this is of some concern as we never know where or when we will be standed. I took the truck to the dealer and they were not able to find anything wrong (the bill was just over a hundred bucks!). Anyone have any ideas? Thanks in advance ....

mazman1 · June 2001

Lots of things can cause this problem, let me list a few, and you can take your pick:

1. You held down the gas pedal down while turning the key and flooded the chamber.
2. Fuel pump can't get any gas into the engine because the fuel filter is clogged or the vehicle has less than a quarter tank and is parked nose down.
3. Electronic ignition box - distributor module- gets hot and malfunctions.. When it cools down , it works fine... especially on short trips to the dealer, but on long camping trips, you are afraid to shut it off when you get gas because it may not restart.
4. Spark plug wires are worn. Should have been replaced already, so may not apply to you.
5. Fuel injectors are clogged. Easy fix.. Buy some Gumout fuel injector cleaner and dump it in the gas tank.
6. One or more of the Oxygen sensors is bad.
7. Computer module.. usually the ECM is malfunctioning.

Maybe you can leave it at the dealer overnight and have them try to start it the next day... maybe then they can duplicate the problem.

Good luck

ace10 · June 2001

the first you need to do is probably try to figure out under what conditions the problem occurs. is it wet/damp hot/cool outside? has the vehicle been sitting for a long/short period of time? is the fuel tank full or empty? etc....

i'll bet it only occurs on the first startup of the day. hence, the dealer was unable to duplicate. if so, next time park the truck at the dealer (or service center) the night before and tell them to not bother with service if it doesn't occur.

a lot can be determined if the conditions are the same when problem occurs. starting problems can be very difficult to diagnose.

ace

captdavid · June 2001

With regard to my starting problem. It always starts first thing in the morning. It does not seem to matter whether the fuel tank is full or near empty or what the weather is doing. When it fails to start my SO has driven a relatively short distance and parked for an hour or so. It is then that every couple of weeks it will not start. As I said, she waits 10 to 30 minutes and then it fires right up. I'm really scratching my head on this one. She thinks we should get rid of it because it has become "unreliable."

mazman1 · June 2001

Ok, now we are making progress. It cant be your fuel pump, although you should not ever let it go below 1/4 tank, as the gas goes away from the pump if the vehicle is parked nose down on a hill.

It sounds like it might be either electrical (ECM) or your fuel injectors. If you drive a lot of short hops with it, then you wet soak the injectors and they develop a residue. Have you tried Gumout or Techron gas treatment? This may help and is really a cheap solution ($10). Just put it in with the tank half full (10 gals) rather than full tank.

If you have not had your spark plug wires and plugs replaced, this could also be the problem. Clogged plugs perform worse when hot. I would also replace the PCV. ($2)

Good luck and please let us know how this advice works out for you.

zman3 · June 2001

I concur with mazman. While not having the same exact problem as you, I had an idling issue with my 95 Explorer. When it was restarted after sitting for about an hour or less, it would idle very roughly. It never died, buck it did buck like crazy.

Before dumping any money on diagnostics, I changed the plugs and PCV valve. World of difference. Idle is smooth now. You may want to make this your first shot.

cberes · June 2001

Had a similar problem with '93 XLT about 2 years ago-- would typically happen on hot, humid days and during my lunchtime errand runs. Would start up just fine and drive to first errand-- truck would sit for @15-30 minutes-- start . . .shake and buck like crazy, and usually die before I could back out of a parking space or get going down the road. At first, would start up after "resting a while"-- later stopped doing that (ultimately ended up killing my battery)and had to have it towed. Of course, it would start right up after being towed to the dealership . . . making me look like the complete fool.

This went on (and got worse and worse) for a period of 2 months or so (summer)-- never knew if I was going to get back from lunch or late afternoon errands-- it was ridiculous and VERY frustrating. Ford (when they finally duplicated the problem) told me it was PROBABLY the O2 sensors-- which would involve @ $1000 cost to TRY and fix (no longer under warranty, of course.) After 2 lunchtime tows to Ford, the third time I had it towed to my local old-time mechanic. He replaced the fuel relay switch at a nominal cost-- have never had this problem since.

Still have the XLT beast (@180k now)-- reading your post brought back all the frustrating memories-- hope this info helps!

enforcer · June 2001

I had the same problem in tahoe this year -- it only occurred when temp was below freezing and on the second start of the day.

At the time, i just assumed it was just frozen water in the gas line as i have not had any problems in warmer weather at sea level. The plugs are new, tank was full and level, etc.

Appreciate all the comments here as they suggest another problem. I think i will try gumout before paying for ECM service.

masonmi · June 2001

How safe are the products that you use as a gas additive to clean the fuel injectors of fords? I have a V8 engine is there a certain additive I should use and or brand, if i want to clean my fuel injectors? and will these give me problems over time with engine performance?

mazman1 · June 2001

I use Gumout xtra fuel injector cleaner after every oil change. It removes water and cleans the injectors. I put it in a 1/2 full tank and drive to almost empty before filling. I also add a water remover (also known as drygas) in minter months.

Chevron Techron and 3M Fuel injector cleaners are good as well. Just dont use them more often than every 3 months.

enforcer · June 2001

For those of you, like me, who have the Firestone Wilderness HT tires (these have not yet been recalled like the ATs) be forwarned -- as reported in today's Wall Street Journal:

"Mr. Johnson said the [House Commerce] committee also has evidence that at least two other -- the 16-inch Wilderness HT and 15-inch FR 480 -- actually have higher tread-separation claims rates than the Wilderness ATs that are being replaced by Ford. The FR 480s, which Mr. Johnson said were used in the early-to-mid-1990s on Ford Explorers, have a claims rate of 43 per million, Mr. Johnson said, while the HTs, which have been used since 1995 on Ford F-150 pickups, have a claims rate of 49 per million."

Hopefully there will be a further recall soon and we can all get Michelins or Goodyears.

ivorynga · June 2001

My check engine light is on... my limited has 95,000 miles on it. I checked all the fluids... all are fine. It is running smoothly, no rough idle, not running hot... When I turn the car off and back on, the light is off. However, after driving down the road a little bit, the light comes back on. Sometimes when sitting in traffic and moving slowly the car wants to die but doesn't... it catches itself and picks back up. Any suggestions? The dealer has it now...

mazman1 · June 2001

I'd bet its a sensor that is having a problem... the dealer can check this easily with a code scanner. The error code will point to the sensor that is malfunctioning or reporting a problem. Could be the oxygen sensor or a vacuum sensor. The solution should be pretty straightforward. The reason that the light comes on after a few minutes of driving is that the computer is trying to check out its systems and it takes about 3-5 minutes to survey the sensors and make adjustments, and then recheck the sensors. If one sensor reports an error, the computer turns on the check engine light.

mzoom007 · June 2001

Hi folks, I could not find anything via searching the threads for how to help the handling on an Explorer. We have had it for one year and compared to my previous 4x4 Ford trucks - full size Bronco or Ranger, the handling is just terrible. Particularly while braking on a rough or bumpy surface. It is just scary. 85k miles and we just replaced the shocks, brake pads and rotors and front bushings. Any aftermarket items or swaps to do to help this problem or is this just a feature?

I feel bad for Firestone - I don't think they are the problem here. Thanks, John

kurz2 · June 2001

hello mazman,
you seem to know a lot about explorers and you also seem to be quite satisfied with them (since you own one by yourself...) - could you give me some advice on what to check when buying a 97 or newer explorer with the 4.0 SOHC engine (the OHC is too weak and we don´t have the V8 over here) ? I´m looking at cars with less than 70000 miles on them - should I expect any larger maintenance problem coming up soon ? which maintenance / part exchanges should have already been done ? are there any special parts to check extra thoroughly ?
would be happy for response ...

mazman1 · June 2001

Thanks for hte special request. I hope I can help.

I owned a 1994 Explorer (with the v6 OHV) and I now own a 2000 Explorer with the v6 SOHC. First, let me say that the 1997-1999 versions of the SOHC had many problems.. to the point that Ford had to extend the warranty to 72,000 miles on the cam tensioners (there are 3 in the SOHC - two in the front and one in the back) and the lower manifold gasket. To change the timing chains on the SOHC, you have to lift the engine out of the vehicle.. which is very involved and can get very expensive if not under warranty. The OHV engine, although less powerful (especially if you are towing) still got me several speeding tickets. The OHV was much simpler engine and easier to service. That's my two cents.

What I would look at when evaluating ANY vehicle: These are easy to do without getting really dirty:

1. If you are buying it from an invdividual, ask to see the repair and service history. If the person really took care of it, they would save all of the repair work receipts. That's the kind of person to buy a used car from.. somebody who cared to change the oil every 3,000 miles and kept good records of any problems. When was the radiator last flushed? Hoses changed? Spark plugs and wires changed? Air cleaner changed?
2. look at the fluid levels and smell them (especially the tranny fluid) to check for a burning smell. Are the fluids uniform in color with no oil floating in the top of the radiator reservoir bottle (this can mean tranny fluid has breached the barrier and is in your radiator, and consequently, coolant is in your tranny).
3. Are there any puddles under where the vehicle is parked?
4. Check the air cleaner element. If it is relatively clean, the owner cared to change it and probably did not drive it in sand or mud which can get into the lubrication points in the suspension as well as rot the brakes, whcih are not so easy to see.
5. Is there a tow hitch on the vehicle? If so, how heavy a trailer was towed, and was it towing a boat? Many times when you have to launch a boat, the rear wheels can go into the drink. The salt water can rust the chassis as well as the brakes if not washed off immediately. Also a very heay trailer can put a strain on the tranny. The max load on most explorers is about 2500 pounds trailer, and 300 pounds at the tongue, unless there were modifications done.
6. Check the interior and try to decide that the odometer reading makes sense based on the condition of the drivers seat and carpet.
6. Look for muck in the tailpipe. This can be a indicator of a gasket leak allowing coolant or oil through the system.
7. Get in the car and before starting the engine look around to see that everything looks uniform ... no new seats or new panels.
8. Before starting the engine, push down on the brake pedal until the master cylinder is discharged. The with your foot on the brake pedal (without touching the gas pedal), turn on the engine. If the brake booster comes alive under your foot as the engine is started and returns to normal function quickly, then the booster and master cylinder are in good shape.
9. Drive the car with the windows open and the radio off. Listen for noises from the engine, brakes and suspension. When you step on the brakes firmly, does it stop evenly without a shudder or pedal vibration (could be warped rotors). Does the engine choke a bit when you get heavy on the gas and does it hesistate on launch after a stop light?
10. Lastly, talk with the owner and ask him right out why he is selling the car and was it ever in an accident, stolen or submerged in water (many cars are sold after a flood storm). Be wary of guys that want cash that day or are not too knowledgeable about the vehicle. They may have just bought it, found out that there is something wrong and want to unload it.

Good luck!

rte66r · June 2001

My newly ordered '02 Explorer EB (with V8) should be arriving any day. They've got Goodyear Wrangler AP tires. Are these tires OK or should I ask the dealer to put Michelin Cross Terrain tires.? I need a tire that gives a quiet smooth ride but behaves in the snow.

kurz2 · June 2001

Thanks mazman for your quick answer !
This is really GREAT help...
Just let me bother you with one more question : does this mean you would totally stay away from 97 to 99 SOHC models (damn - that was exactly what I was looking at !) ?

mazman1 · June 2001

I dont know whether I would definitely avoid a 97 vehicle, but like I said before, if you buy it from an individual that took maintenance seriously and took really good care of the vehicle, and replaced the timing chain tensioners, Firestone tires, for example, then its a good chance you will enjoy the vehicle for several years. Otherwise, you could be buying a migraine headache. The OHV engine has a simpler design than the SOHC, and is easier to service, although not as powerful if you need it for towing. I was able to acquire some speeding tickets with my 1994 OHV equipped vehicle.

Hope this helps.

hodog16 · June 2001

Hello all,

I just wanted to post the solution the ford dealer found for my 98 explorer's hesitation problems. First, thanks to mazman1 and swschrad for their responses--I passed on your suggestions to the service shop.

Turns out that one of the ignition wires would generate static charge after heating up (after driving awhile) which caused one of the spark plugs to misfire. That caused the engine to run roughly after heating up. Go fig, huh.

Thanks again and good luck to all,

jason

tallimeca · June 2001

I have a 2000 explorer sport, sohc 13k miles. Recently I started having some problems. Under acceloration, the vehicle/engine will hesitate until you back of the accelorator and reapply. As it hesitates, I noticed a pinging/clanking coming from the vehicle, sound sort of like a back fire or engine misfire. I checked the eec for codes, shows nothing. Was brought to the dealer, they installed the timming chain update and replaced the intake gasket which cause simmilar characteristics when cold. This didn't solve the problem. The check engine light only came on once, the night before the update was complete, but hasn't come on since, but I'm still having the problem. It's going into the shop tomorrow for another try at it. Anyone have any ideas???

mazman1 · June 2001

Maybe you have water in your gas tank, or you got some bad gas. I think a cheap solution would be to put some water remover ($1.99 at Autozone) or Gumout Xtra in the tank when half full and drive it.

You might also want to check the air filter and MAF sensor for a clog of dirt.

erock00 · June 2001

All,

I just noticed a problem with my AC. When at idle (stop sign or light), the AC system cycles on and off. I can hear it kick in/out and can feel the air go between cold and warm. The fan runs continuously. When at speed (1000+ rpm), the system runs continuously and correctly. Does anyone have any thoughts on this?? If the coolant level gets low, would something like this happen before the system shuts down completely??

Any help would be great!

swschrad · June 2001

what engine do you have, and is Ford still using a vacuum cut-out switch to turn the compressor off if the engine starts to get below a certain load point to insure it doesn't stumble when you have to get out of the way of a big old truck on the freeway, or die at idle? those two questions may well settle the case, and sounds like you have a v6 OHC and the a/c is cutting out because the vacuum is low enough to signal the engine is ready to choke. I don't notice it on my 2000 with the V8, but of course that's probably why....

tallimeca · June 2001

Maz,
Alright swapped in a new filter and cleaned the MAF. Swapped in a new fuel filter as well. Picked up the vehicle from the dealer for the second time in as many weeks, they still can find a problem, they are putting a call into ford to run a check to see if anyone reported similar problems and what they turned out to be before they start changing things for no reason. The only way I can somewhat replicate what happens while driving is to put it in park and hold the engine at 1000 rpms, when I do this, you can sort of hear the engine drop a bit and shake a bit, when this happens, I pull my foot off the accelorator and the rpms drop almost to zero and come back up to idle, sometimes it stalls. One of the techs tried telling me it was normal......hello??? Stalling is normal?? I'm at a little over 1/4 tank right now, I put some dry gas and fuel injector cleaner in before I left work. Any info??? One guy told me he had a very similar problem with his 97 sohc sport...turned out there was a tsb to replace the throttle body. I'm assuming that if this were a problem back then, my newer vehicle would have already had this taken care of in manufacturing.

sprankj · June 2001

Just found out my 1994 XLT Explorer has a completely rotted out gas tank as well as fuel lines; It's been a very well treated car, and with 117,000 miles the warranty is obviously gone. Has anyone experienced this before with this year of Explorer? I've called the Ford Motor Company and they've stated that their database doesn't have too many instances of this happening. Just paid $700.00 on new ball joints and now I'm going to have to pay $800.00 on a stupid gas tank! What a pain!

mazman1 · June 2001

I still think that your issue is fuel related. If the gumout cleans the fuel injectors, then that solves your problem, you have a solution. It still might be water in the gas tank that the engine is choking on. If you bought a tank of gas right after the gas station got a delivery (or when its tank was almost empty) you could have put a lot of junk in your gas tank, including a lot of water.

The TSB on the trottle body was to fix sticky throttles in the 1997 model. I dont think that is your problem. Next put gas in your tank from a differnt gas station, and not "gaseteria" brand.. my Explorer likes Mobil and Exxon and Amoco.. but not Getty and Gulf or the cheap stuff.

mazman1 · June 2001

Get a replacement tank from a salvage yard. It will cost you a lot less. You can then clean it up and repaint it. Its easy, you could even replace it yourself if you are mechanically inclined.

dterry727 · July 2001

I have a 99 DOHC (64000 miles) with AWD and dual range 4WD - standard configuration except 2WD, I guess. It shudders under moderate acceleration from a stop. Slow acceleration or hard acceleration works fine. I saw a message somewhere here that mentioned "clutch sensors", but I really don't want to search 795 messages looking for it. Can anybody help? Other than that, I think it's the greatest, tightest, most solid, rigid, fun vehicle I've ever driven - and more gadgets...that even still work!

roger57 · July 2001

I ordered a new 2002 Exp back in April. Still no delivery. The dealer is telling me the plant where it would have been built has been shut down, due to the tire replacement program.

This sounds bogus to me. I don't see any connection. Anyone have information re this matter?

Thanks

ryster · July 2001

The Lousville plant has been idle since the beginning of June and should remain so for the whole month. The last two weeks of June were due to the annual summer shutdown. Not sure if the first two weeks were tire related or not.

I had read somewhere that Ford was going to temporarily stop production of Explorers to free up tires for their recall.

The dealer is not lying...the Louisville plant is currently idle.

erock00 · July 2001

re my A/C problem....yes, I have the high output v6. But, I never have had this problem before. Would charging up the system solve the low vaccum problem, or is there something more complicated? You know how expensive A/C components can get.......

Thanks for your reply.

E

hughc2 · July 2001

I have a 1993 Explorer with 85,000 miles on it. I have a vibration coming from the front end of the car. The whole car shakes as though the alingment is way off. The entire front end has been replaced. Any comments or similar problems? He dealer sites some harmonic vibration in connection with the engine mounts/blocks.

Thanks Hugh

mazman1 · July 2001

Might be simple... maybe they did not repair it right? Tell the dealer to take it to Carnegie Hall to see if the harmonic vibration can get it an audition... then tell him to fix it right this time... no, seriously.

swschrad · July 2001

hmmm, something changed, then. you would need to have an a/c professional check the charge level, but you can check the air and vacuum streams yourself -- clean air filter, free rattle in the PVC valve, no cracking on any of the vacuum hoses, ESPECIALLY the ends, and no softening of the ends where you have rubber and not solid plastic vacuum leads. replace anything that isn't up to standard, it's all cheap stuff. the a/c should act up long before the brakes would, since vacuum assist is part of the power brakes, and there hasn't been vacuum advance of the carbs or distributor for a long, long time to kill mileage as an indicator. if that doesn't find anything, it's time to take it to the a/c guys. I do assume you have checked top and bottom of the drive belt, and it's clean, not chunking off gobs of rubber, shined up from slippage, and you don't have more than 1/2 to 1 inch of depression when you push in on the longest section between pulleys... and you don't have that gawdawful squeal in humidity that says tighten or replace the belt.

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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