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tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I passed on this repair - especially considering I'm looking at possibly not having this vehicle a year from now.
The two diagnostic codes received from an OBDII scan tool were:
P0125 (Insufficient Coolant Temperature For Closed Loop Fuel Control)
and
P0136 (Oxygen Sensor Circuit Malfunction - Bank #1 Sensor #2)
Any ideas on what short and long term issues I might have not replacing this oxygen sensor?
Bud H
Due to medical issues, my husband is no longer able to drive. I was thinking of trading in both Highlanders and getting one 2007 4WD Highlander Limited. I went to our dealer to discuss this possibility and he agreed that it could be done at minimal out-of-pocket cost to us.
My rationalization is that we only need one SUV and I would like to start with a new SUV with no mileage; I don't want to have to buy a new car for many, many years.
I would welcome any opinions on this. I love my 2001 Highlander and was wondering if there are any major changes (other than the so-called 3rd-row seating that I really don't want) that I should know about. Have there been any known maintenance problems with the 2007s?
Again, any opinions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you!
However, from something more than an economical point of view there comes a good feeling of owning a new vehicle that you can't put a dollar sign on. And if you are up in years, as I am, it may cross your mind that this "could" be your last vehicle.
My opinion boils down to: if you can afford it without placing any financial hardship on yourself, go for it.
Further, there will be no repair bills for more than 3 years. Also the new models are safer with more safety features.
Edit: Found this from a google search: it's for the Rav 4, but may apply to the HL:
1. Make sure the car is in Park and the parking brake is disengaged before you start the car.
2. Start the engine.
3. Engage the parking brake.
4. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
5. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
6. Disengage the parking brake.
7. Fully depress and hold down the brake pedal.
8. Engage the parking brake, then disengage it (while holding down the brake pedal).
9. Engage the parking brake, then disengage it (while holding down the brake pedal).
10. Release the brake pedal.
11. Engage the parking brake.
12. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
13. Fully depress the brake pedal and then release.
In the meantime if you disconnect the MAF/IAT sensor module while the engine is idling the engine will die, reconnect the module, restart the engine and for the next few drives cycles your will have a meaningless CEL but a "meanful" VSC/Trac "failure" indication.
This entire Toyota/Lexus FWD based AWD product line, RX, HL, Sienna, is AWD for marketing purposes only. No real AWD capability on wintertime roadbed conditions, ice, packed snow, etc, certainly not on an incline.
While this isn't a "rush," I think I can get a better deal on a 2007, particularly since the 2008 is going to be a new model.
I think toyotagal hit the right button for me. First, I wouldn't even know how to go about selling one of the Highlanders. Well, I guess I could figure out how to do it, but I really don't want strangers coming to my house and test driving a vehicle, negotiating price, etc. The thought of that gives me a knot in my stomach because I would have to handle it on my own.
Second, this could be my last new vehicle purchase. With my husband's illness and future prognosis, the last thing I want to do is have to worry about replacing a car. I know that both Highlanders have relatively low mileage, but with my luck lately, I'm afraid that I will sell one and in a year or so, the one I keep will start having problems. I guess having a brand new Highlander will give me some feeling of long-term security. And yes, that "new car feeling" will definitely be a pleasant diversion for me.
Logically, selling one of the Highlanders, keeping the other one, and having the money from the sale makes the most sense. But if I can pull the trade-in off with minimal money out-of-pocket---and there are no known probems with the 2007---then my heart tells me to trade-in both cars and get a new one.
Thank you all for your input, it really is helpful.
You can run the numbers at Edmunds.com (Used Car Appraiser) and figure out what your trades are worth, and get a True Market Value number for the new Highlander and that'll keep you in the financial ballpark without getting hosed too badly.
You can also compare real world pricing in the Toyota Highlander: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion.
Not to make fun of you as I'm sure you had good reason to move the car. However, it is kind of humorous when you think that a car has enough "common sense" not to begin driving on ice.
hatch opening 37" wide at very bottom/floor, 50" at widest about mid-height in the opening. Inside 37" across floor between shock-tower covers, 52" across the top of them. Hatch opening 32" high, max inside 34". Depth 36" to back of rear seats up, 74" to the back of the front seats. (I've carried 4X8 sheets of plywood with the hatch ajar and tied-down).
Here's the scenario I'm worried about: My spouse has am unfortunate tendency to lock his keys in the car (we won't go into why). So we made a copy key (no chip) just to open the door. All well and good if he then remembers to pick up the chip key to start the car. But if he forgets and sticks the NON-chip-key in the ignition, is he stranded?
All doors on my HL lock if you simply hit the interior lock button before closing the driver's door. Very easy, old habit. Never a problem for me because I just automatically pocket my keys when I'm getting out, but absent-minded-professor hubby has a bad habit of setting his keys down before picking up his briefcase.
When we bought the car, we only received three keys, two masters and one valet. Hubby uses one master, the second master is stored at home (required to make a replacement), and I use the valet. The backup non-resistor copy is kept in his wallet.
When ever he stars the car and turns on the blower, the AC and recirculation buttons light up and stay on for up to 2 minutes then shut off. Note that even if he shuts the AC,(pushes the button), it stays on during this time. He says he has regular AC, no climate control. Does this sound familiar to anyone? What happens when winter arrives?
We have a 2004, and recirculation button doesn't light up unless you press it. That may have changed by 2007.
Not only does the AC run in Defrost Mode (whether desired or not!), there is a subtle change to the way the Temperature knob operates. There is a new, subtle detent for "Max" position at full counter-clockwise rotation. This turns on the AC in Recirculation mode. Turn the knob a few degrees clockwise, and now the Recirc and AC can be turned off and will stay off.
I just leave the knob a little bit off the Max setting, and it operates like the earlier years' models.
It's probably not such a bad idea to initially run the A/C on a coolish, <65F, but BRIGHT sunny day if the cabin temperature is significantly ABOVE OAT. At least until the cabin temperature, air AND materials/surfaces, has been reduced to the point wherein your comfort level can be sustained by "importing" the coolish outside air.
BUT.
It is SHEAR IDIOCY to run the system in recirculate at "this" time, with the interior cabin atmosphere significantly above OAT. It would undoubtedly be best, better, to initially run the system in "fresh" and with a reasonably high blower speed in order to QUICKLY move the overheated cabin atmosphere out the too tiny (intentionally so, DENSO US) EXHAUSTER port.
It's a puzzle to me how Toyota and Lexus can be sensible enough to tell us to lower the rear windows to quickly remove the overheated cabin atmosphere in this situation and yet at the same time FORCE the climate control into recirculate. Indicates a SEVERE lack of communication between their climate control supplier/designer, NipponDenso, Denso US, and themselves, maybe.
The obvious proper procedure would be to use fresh mode for that first two minutes and THEN switch to reciculate mode provided there has been no recent episode of coolish or COLD climate operation. NEVER use recirculate in cool or COLD climates.
IDIOTS...!!
(Appropreate CR's, line/sentence/paragraph deliniators are present in my original, but...)
1. There is a C-best option that will allow you to prevent the A/C compressor from operating automatically FOREVER if that is what you wish.
2. There is a c-best option that "unlinks" teh A/C form operating automatically, with NO indication to you of same, in defrost/defog/demist mode.
3. There is a c-best option to prevent the system from automatically switching from heating mode (footwell and WINDSHIELD outlet airflow) to cooling mode once the cabin atmosphere has been warmed to a level close to the desired comfort level.
This one is fairly important since one of teh MAJOR flaws in this design is the fact that the interior surface of the windshield is not kept warmed via system airflow in cooling mode.
4. There is a c-best option to prevent the system from automatically switching to recirculate at initial startup.
The above list is at least 3 years old and given the extreme level at which this entire design is FLAWED I'm sure that by now there are others, with even more to come. Check with your service manager to get a complete list of c-best options.
Each time I go in to have one changed I am quoted ~$50. But then the charge has always been waved since getting it done is always such a hassle.
For some reason Toyota and Lexus tries to keep the c-best settings under wraps. The list is almost always "buried" in some drawer somewhere and only "found" if you express CERTAIN knowledge of a given technique, setting.
And be careful even then, I have had instances wherein teh service manager produced an incomplete list, substantially foreshortened, and tried to tell me that was all there was.
Since many of these settings can readily improve the safety of a given vehicle I have no idea as to why the secrecy efforts.