Toyota Highlander

1…4445474950…211

Comments

  • gtalaveragtalavera Member Posts: 15
    A friend's lexus RX300 was stolen recently having owned the car for only 2 weeks. Wondering if the HL will be a popular vehicle. Also wondering if the keyless entry and factory alarm would prevent this from happening with my highlander. I understand the the key has a computer chip and without it you can't start the car. The only way it will be stolen if someone uses a tow truck.Now my friend also had this feature how is this possible? is this feature useless?
  • rivestrivest Member Posts: 10
    When I picked up my Limited Highlander I was able to adjust the Midrange right off the bat. I didn't need to go through any of the steps you listed. So, maybe Toyota is aware now.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    My mid range trick only applies to those without the JBL stereo. If you have either variant of the JBL, you don't need to go through that. Sorry if I wasn't clear on that point.
  • chitowntimchitowntim Member Posts: 7
    Can anyone tell me how wide the area between the front seats is? I have a portable floor console video system in my Chrysler minivan, and am expecting delivery of my new Highlander next week. I am curious to know if this will fit in the HL.
  • hawkeye70hawkeye70 Member Posts: 43
    I measured the minimum space between the front seats at 7-3/4" with the cupholders removed. Without them removed, there is 7-5/8" minimum clearance. They are easily removed with a phillips screwdriver. Of course, you may want a little more clearance if you will be moving the seats.
  • jreajrea Member Posts: 26
    I'm still trying to confirm the source of my right front passenger-side rattle, but I think I've isolated it to the glove box latch. With the glove box door open, I've not heard the rattle yet.
  • georgep5georgep5 Member Posts: 1
    We have had our Highlander for almost 3 months now and love it except for a small problem we discovered yesterday. If a rear window is rolled down when driving at normal speed (40 to 55mph), it sounds like a helicopter is about to land on the roof of our Highlander. The noise does not occur if the front windows are rolled down as well and the noise is much worse if only one rear window is rolled down. Has anyone else experienced this problem?

    We say the problem is small as we do not forsee a need to drive with just the back windows down. We discovered the problem when I rolled the back window down by mistake (hit the rear window button instead of the front window).
  • purcatpurcat Member Posts: 13
    I love my HL. But have one question about a noise I hear in the glove box. When we press the door of the glove box, or the lock, the noise seems to stop. We have things in the box, but they are not making the noise. I read from one of you that putting the manuals in stops the noise. Can anyone else suggest something?? New lock, window molding around box? HELP!
  • seankat1seankat1 Member Posts: 6
    First, I have to say, thanks to all that share info on this post, the information received has been very helpful in my HL purchase. I am new member of the Bluestone HL Club, my HL is a V6 FWD Limited with leather, fender flares and drop hitch.
    Quick question: in the HL brochure the Bluestone HL has a gear box on top of the roof rack, does anyone know what make it is and possibly were it might be purchased? The dealer told me that Toyota doesn't sell these, that I should try some local Camper places. I did this and all they carry is the bulky tall ones. Nothing sleek and aerodynamic as the one in the brochure.
  • brgsmithbrgsmith Member Posts: 14
    This is kinda sorta common on a number of cars, some worse than others. The airflow past the open rear windows alternately compresses and expands the air inside the vehicle. Cracking a front window relieves the cyclic pressure wave. Both our old Cherokee and Explorer would do this. Volvo 240 and Pontiac Bonneville not as bad. In former times when cars had side vent windows or floor/foorwell vents this didn't happen.

    Anyhow, we all use the AC, right?

    BTW, check out how the sunroof and headliner vibrates about 3/8" when you have the rear window down! Scary.

    brgsmith
  • hawkeye70hawkeye70 Member Posts: 43
    Congratulations on your Bluestone HL . You have some features on yours that some of us would like but couldn't get (factory hitch and fender flares). As for the cargo box, I know of 3 brands that make the aero-shape boxes. I believe the one shown in the HL brochure is by Packasport. The other brands are Thule and Yakima. The Packasport is a superior product IMO, but also 2-3x the price. It is fiberglass and can be painted to match your color. The Thule and Yakima are ABS plastic and are available in black or white, depending on the model. I bought the Thule Adventurer. It seems a little flimsy when open, but it travels well and holds quite a bit of camping gear. For info on these boxes:


    http://www.packasport.com


    http://www.thule.com


    http://www.yakima.com

  • sjzsjz Member Posts: 33
    Read my post #2296. I spent a couple of hours one day pinpointing the source. I had the whole glovebox out, thinking that there might be a wire resting on top of the plastic box insert. If you want to do a quick elimination of the latch, just run a piece of tape across the front of the glovebox door, right over the pull down latch. My problem was nothing more than excessive play in the actual latch lever that you pull to open the glovebox door. It seems like a little thing, but maybe the door amplifies the sound somehow. When the door is open (since the latch on the door is now sprung), the play is taken out of the lever, and it doesn't rattle. When the door is shut, the latch is "cocked", and the play is there.
    -Steve
  • seankat1seankat1 Member Posts: 6
    Hawkeye70, thanks for the information. I couldn't find the Adventurer model at the Thule web site. Is this an old or new product that just might not be on their site? Do you have a picture of the HL with the gear box to share with us?
  • mcw31762mcw31762 Member Posts: 15
    Hi all,

    I just got my beautiful bluestone yesterday...yea! It came with a tire pressure of 40...and I can't seem to find the posts on tire pressures here. I've got the V6 AWD...at what pressure are you all setting your tires (bridgestones)? I know the door says 30 but I was thinking people were doing something different...any thoughts??? I did lower it down to around 35...should I go lower? Thanks!
  • sjzsjz Member Posts: 33
    Good luck with your new HL!
    I went with 32# front & rear.
    -Steve
  • reticent1reticent1 Member Posts: 70
    MCW, congratulations on your new bluestone Limited. :D To all who've gotten their great new HLs, bravo! Since the Motor Trend article blasted out there with such praise and acclaim for this fine SUV, the freeways here in CA seem to have lots of new ones out there as well. Thanks for the info about the rattle (it's come up for us a few times) and the wind whistle for the roof rack. I do learn an awful lot from the boards. So do our service folks.

    -Ret
  • brgsmithbrgsmith Member Posts: 14
    The manufacturer's recommendations (and I don't know what they are for the HL) are based on a number of factors including the tire itself, sidewall stiffness, unsprung weight, spring rate, damping rate (shock absorber rate), vehicle weight, handling characteristics, loaded vehicle weight, and ride comfort. The recommendations do not necessarily match the max tire pressure on the sidewall. That said, if the recommendations are for a pressure that is fairly low, the outside edges of the tire may start wearing before the center of tire. I try to keep the tire pressure on my vehicles so as to result in even wear across the face of the tire. This often yields the optimal contact with the road, and (IMO) the best handling.

    Again IMO, start with the mfr. recommendations for the pressure respective to the vehicle loading, and adjust from there, staying below max. sidewall pressure. If it is not on a sticker on the door or door sill, it should be in your manual.

    HTH

    brgsmith
  • sartosarto Member Posts: 13
    Wow! Hey thanks for the tip, cliffy1. Your instructions were accurate. It was like finding a secret room in a game. When I had my audio on radio, the sound was somewhat off prior to your tip. I started off with your settings and played around there. Thanks again. I had my HL since May 28 and put in 1222 miles on it. Just now weaning it from break-in period. I've only got an I-4 so I'm kinda careful breaking it in. I'm enjoying every minute of it.
  • reticent1reticent1 Member Posts: 70
    That also works with the MR2 Spyders too...but as with an Echo, the radio setting for the mid-range goes back to the usual default when you turn the car off... so when you start your car, make it a habi to adjust the midrange before you get going into drive or reverse. I made it a habit myself. Dunno why it self-defaults every time one switches the car off, but it does. Neat feature!

    -Ret
  • deerlake7deerlake7 Member Posts: 176
    There must have been a batch of Highlanders made when when a person on the production line was asleep. I, too, had the now infamous glove box rattle. The dealer fixed mine in about two minutes by tightening up the latch as well. Also, when I first picked up our Highlander in February, I noticed there was a bit of driveline vibration. I didn't think too much about it as the two demos I drove had the same thing. Now, after 3000 miles, it seems to be disappearing and overall, the driveline seems very smooth. Perhaps this is part of the overall breakin.
  • reticent1reticent1 Member Posts: 70
    I have made it a point to check every Highlander we now deliver to see if there's a loose latch. I'd rather make certain we deliver a trouble-free car without any doubt!

    See how much we learn from one another here?

    -Ret
  • hawkeye70hawkeye70 Member Posts: 43
    The Thule Adventurer box is last year's model. It was replaced by the Mountaineer. I bought it at Sportmart on a closeout deal about 2 weeks ago. No pics yet, but I will try to remount the box soon and post a pic on the HL club site on Yahoo.
  • dean2sm1dean2sm1 Member Posts: 34
    My apologies to tdore, and thanks to cliffy1. One should keep his mouth shut unless he's 150% sure. I screwed up partially because of the rather usual Japanese to English translation, with the Dingy towing comments 25 pages away from the regular towing section. Incidentally, I bled my tires down to 31 from 38 found four weeks after ownership; should have checked sooner.
  • chadhburkechadhburke Member Posts: 27
    gwkiser,

    The rattle I am experiencing appears to be coming from around the front passenger seat area. I too had the rattle problem with the glovebox when we first received our HL, but after filling it with the manual and CD cases and other things it has gone away. The rattle in the seat area started around 4500 miles. I've got 5500 on it now. Plan to do some troubleshooting soon. It appears to go away when someone is sitting in the seat. Hmmm. It sounds like a very small rock bouncing around. I'll post what I find later.

    With respect to tire pressure, I keep mine around 34 psig. The label on the door says 30 psig.

    With 5500 miles we have not had any other real problems (other than the wind noise, which someone else is trying out a new molding).
  • razzy2razzy2 Member Posts: 10
    I got my Highlander Limited yesterday. The book says do not go over 55mph for 1000 miles. I'm planning a trip this weekend, about 125 miles each way. If I travel at about 70 mph for about 2 hours and then again the next day, am I going to damage my vehicle?
  • maj1maj1 Member Posts: 37
    Can anyone tell me what type of gas does the Highlander require?
  • reticent1reticent1 Member Posts: 70
    regular unleaded, 87 octane's fine.
  • maj1maj1 Member Posts: 37
    Thanks for your information Reticent1!
    However, if I'm correct HL has the same engine with RX300 and it requires super unleaded. Are there any different with theses 2 v6s? Can you let me know what the owner's manual suggested?
    Thanks
  • reticent1reticent1 Member Posts: 70
    Owner's manual recommends on both engines 87 octane.

    The manual says: "for improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended.

    That can be said of *any* car. :D The manual specifically says that, and the part about "improved..." is on every Toyota owner's model manual.

    -Ret
  • sjzsjz Member Posts: 33
    Good luck with the new HL!
    I've had many new cars, and never believed in babying them during break in, and I've never had ANY engine trouble on a car I purchased new (knocking on wood). That's not to say I abuse the car, I just drive it normally from day one on. In my opinion, its more important NOT to set the cruise control to 55 (or any speed) on you brand new car and point it to the thruway, running at the same speed for a long time. By varying your speed, and letting your engine do some braking as well as propelling, you do a much better job of seating the rings in the cylinders. By winding the motor out a bit, I feel that you raise that wear ridge higher on the cylinder wall.
    Now brakes are another story. Any time you have a brand new set of pads or shoes on a car, they make minimum contact with the rotor or shoe until they have a few hundred miles on them and are seated in. The less pad/shoe contact you have with the rotor/drum, the faster they will heat up and possibly glaze the friction surfaces or maybe even warp the rotor or create hard spots on the drum. So try to take it easy on new (or replacement) brakes, avoiding frequent sudden stops. Also, ALWAYS torque the lug nuts on all your vehicles, especially ones with rotors. In my opinion, improper torqueing is probably the single greatest cause of warped rotors.
    I also think its very important to change the engine oil and filter within the first few hundred miles of a new engine's life. I try to do it within 500 miles. Here's my reasoning:
    No matter how meticulous an engine manufacturer is, there are always going to be by-products of the manufacturing process (i.e. metal shavings, gasket materials, solvent residue, abrasives, etc.) stuck in the nooks and crannies of the engine. In addition, any machined surfaces that are in moving contact with other surfaces will shear off small bits of material as part of the normal wearing in process, with the most shearing occurring the very first time an engine is started. Why keep this material in you oil and filter for 3000 miles?
    Sorry for the long rant, just wanted to share some of my opinions. Let me qualify all this by saying that I do have some backround, having worked in an automobile machine shop for many years, rebuilding engines, heads, alternators, starters, differentials, etc. Any comments or flames are welcome!
    -Steve
  • drew_drew_ Member Posts: 3,382
    Another Toyota Highlander owner is asking about aftermarket leather in the Aftermarket & Accessories message board. Perhaps someone could offer some advice in that topic?

    lindau "Aftermarket leather upholstery" May 15, 2001 7:15pm


    Drew
    Host
    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • dan1555dan1555 Member Posts: 9
    I have found that by using premium gas (91 octane) the performance of my HL increased noticably. It feels more powerful and is a little quicker with the higher octane gas in there. I have the V6 2wd.
  • brgsmithbrgsmith Member Posts: 14
    There are jut as many BTUs of energy in a gallon of 87 octane as there are in a gallon of 91. The difference in performance arises from the way in which the BTUs are burned. While it is true that one need not use an octane rating higher than that required to keep the engine from "pinging" under load or acceleration, the use of 91 octane MAY result in improved performance in SOME vehicles. Here's how:
    Most modern engine control systems employ a gazillion sensors, and a good many systems use a "knock" or "ping" sensor to detect slight ping and then the computer retards the spark timing. This is a simplification, there are other adjustments being made, too. Any time the spark is retarded, the output of the engine is reduced a bit. High octane gas (91 to 93, depending on your locale) has additives that resist the detonation (ping). This allows the spark timing to be more advanced, and the engine to operate at a slightly higher specific output.
    In the days before knock sensors and sophisticated computer control of engine management, the use of high octane gas didn't really do anything except stop the rattling noise under the hood, unless one was a shade tree mechanic or had their shop mechanic advance the spark timing to take advantage of the higher octane and thus reduce the tendancy to detonate. With a few to 5 degrees advanced timing, performance was noticably better, and gas mileage improved.
    With today's computer controlled engines, it's as if one had a blurringly fast mechanic under the hood at all times, constantly adjusting what amounts to the position of the distributor housing (chances are your vehicle doesn't have one of these anymore) to attain optimum engine performance.
    I used to think that folks using 91-93 octane were wasting money, but that was using my 60s and 70s automotive experience. Today, I can see where 91 octane might result in improved performance and possibly lower fuel consumption by allowing the engine to run with more advanced spark, in addition to other optimal settings.

    brgsmith
  • toyotawalttoyotawalt Member Posts: 15
    I'm not sure about all of the above, but I do figure up the mileage on the receipt when I buy gasoline (I don't trust all that mpg info on the info center, although it's pretty close to what I got). I've been getting 20.3 mpg consistently with 87 octane unleaded, and 22.4 mpg with 93 octane Shell.That's with a V6-4wd Limited edition, with VSC, etc. on a mixed driving routine.
    I can hardly wait to get out on the open road and see how she does.
    Hiyo, (Millenium) Silver, Away!
    W
  • brad_22brad_22 Member Posts: 154
    Where/how can I get this option? Anyone have a pic?
  • purcatpurcat Member Posts: 13
    I really enjoy reading everyones opinions and comments! Steve seems to be very knowledgeable.
    I think I have my glove box noise solved with the thing you put on kitchen cabinet doors, or actually the things you put on the bottom back of pictures when framed! Anyway, my mileage is not so hot, 18.7 in town. I haven't done alot of interstate driving. Any tips on how to improve this mileage? By the way my HL is the Red color
    and there is only one other I have seen in my area
    and that one is blue.
  • mkstringmkstring Member Posts: 53
    I ran between 2000 rpm and 4000 rpms (65-85mph) during my break in an varied my speed every 20-30 minutes (i.e., let up off the gas and accelerated back). I called Toyota Owner Services and even asked the intent in the wording on not remaining at one speed for an extended period of time. I got told 30 minutes or less at one speed. There were some long posts about oil changes and such. I think my feeling is follow the owner's manual.

    ON gas - the more important questions in my mind is does the extra $.20 - $.25 for 91 octane increase my MILEAGE enough to make it cost effective. On a 20 gallon fillup, I should get 360-400 miles at at 18-20 MPG. I'd have to see about a 10% increase in mileage (means going farther on the same amount of gas) to offset a 10% increase in price. And, gas is about $1.65 here in SE Houston.
  • nevrlandnevrland Member Posts: 3
    I am shopping for a Highlander right now and am finding that the center console is readily available in Jacksonville, Florida since we are a port city. What is confusing me is $145/$199 listed invoice/msrp - yet this dealer has added $225.00 for the console because it is not "a factory installed option". My best offer so far is $32,120 for 2WD,6 cyl.
    with NJ,KS,AL,AR,UT,ID,LA,TO,and F. Any thoughts on this offer? I am not very good at this automobile buying. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • pchiupchiu Member Posts: 72
    As there is not much Canadian pricing in this board, and I am looking in the Highlander.
    Can you share with us your buying experience, if you don't mine. In terms of; how much you paid for your model (before tax),which dealer, are they willing to lower the price.....
    Thanks.
  • maj1maj1 Member Posts: 37
    brgsmith

    Thanks for your insightful information. Is it safe to say we can use 87 octane on any engine without causing damage? If I understand this correctly engine performance is the only thing that may suffer from using the lower octane gas?
    Thanks in advance for your input.
  • brgsmithbrgsmith Member Posts: 14
    Maj1:

    I am NOT saying that it is OK to use 87 octane in ANY vehicle. One should use the octane that the manufacturer specifies in the owners manual.

    In my experience, recent (past 15 years) personal vehicles have all been spec'd by the manufacturer to use 87 octane. This included the late and unlamented 97 Jeep Cherokee which pinged like crazy on 87 in the summer. I would alternate tanks of 87 and 92, filling when the tank was about 1/2. No pinging following that regimen.

    W.R.T. the HL, the manual says (paraphrasing) that 87 octane is fine, but performance might be improved by using 91. The HL might be one of the vehicles that has an engine management system that takes advantage of the higher octane (less tendancy to ping) and allows the engine to run at more optimum conditions (less retarded spark, etc.). This might translate into "more power" and less fuel consumption. As mkstring points out in #2340, one would have to evaluate the cost versus the benefit. A 10% increase in fuel economy (1.8 to 2.2 mpg) might be possible for a 10% increase in $$$ at the pump, particularly for someone in Indiana or Ohio as opposed to us PA "Highlanders" in the hills!

    To reiterate, use the octane number that is specified by your manufacturer for the vehicle.

    brgsmith
  • skyrebskyreb Member Posts: 129
    From the very first fill-up, I have been getting better than 22 mpg (as high as 25), however, understand we live in a small New England village and there is no "city" driving. My V6, 4WD, unlimited now has 3500 miles. Interestingly, the Ford Escape manual, advised not to check mileage for 3000 miles and many report it was poor until about that mileage .... I am not sure what that means, maybe the Toyota engine is machined to closer tolerances and did not need the extended time to "seat?" I have discovered my best mileage is in the 45-55 mph range, and slightly less at highway speeds ... actually that did not come as a surprise.
    Our HL is actually my wife's car, and she does not get quite as good a mileage as do I, so this next statement is based on experience driving "my" car (a 1992 Acura). I have noticed the mileage has improved about 2-3 mpg of late. I think that is due to the blended fuel the Government requires during the winter for environmental reasons. I assume the gasoline is now back to the normal summer formulae.
    I appreciate the comments regarding higher octane vs higher mileage. I am not interested in higher (faster) performance ... the HL is terrific on lower octane, but I wondered about the increase mileage.
    Happy HL'ing to all.
  • bblachabblacha Member Posts: 160
    looks like the low-end Highlander will soon have a competitor in a bigger, better CR-V
    http://www.vtec.net/news/items/681.html
  • integraintegra Member Posts: 8
    are you still out there lurking? I live in Mass also and was wondering if you could provide the name of the dealer where you bought your HL? You can email me if you prefer. Thanks.
  • dan1555dan1555 Member Posts: 9
    using 91 octane gas, I average about 12.0 mpg on my v6. I also drive my HL like a madman though... but hey I'm 17, so I'm sure you guys will probably be driving a little less aggressively and therefore get better gas mileage.
  • ehl3ehl3 Member Posts: 30
    Please see my post #2270 and the pricing outlined therein. Unless one of those options is gold plating, you can do better, probably much better. I am in Miami and my car will come through SE Toyota Dists in Jax as well. The line about the console is bull -- the pricing for the SE Toyota installed console is the same as that for the factory installed one, just a different code. The SE Toyota leather is a bit more than factory though, and factory is not available ($989 invoice), though the distributor leather also come in grey, which you cannot get from the factory.

    My guess, based on quotes from seven dealers here, and what I've read in perhaps 1000 of the posts on this massive board, is that you be able to do around invoice plus $550 SE Toyota admin (can't get around it) plus $1000 or less. Other than the leather and console, most options are from the factory and the Edmunds pricing will help. Also, IMHO, the Toyoguard package is NOT worth the hefty investment, even if "the paint won't catch on fire" as one dealer tried to explain to me...

    Try another dealer or get quotes from several internet site links (Carpoint, Autovantage, Edmunds, Autoweb ,etc.)

    I did my homework, used to be in the car business with Budget, and had to negotiate for the first time in years. There is much variance in the market, so keep trying.

    Good luck!
  • skyrebskyreb Member Posts: 129
    I will take your post at face value.
    It saddens me to read your post. Being 17 does not excuse you from irresponsible behavior. But, I acknowledge what you describe is your "right" if that is your choice.
    First, the HL is a beautiful piece of machinery to be driven "like a madman." Such behavior WILL eventually cause an accident, then think of the others that will be harmed.
    Second, have you not heard we have an energy shortage in this country? Who pays for your gasoline? Papa?
    I would not be feeling too good about what you have stated. When you get a bit older, you will come to understand the wisdom of that statement.
  • gwkisergwkiser Member Posts: 326
    Don't know if your distributor can help with a regional option like the flares. Here in TX, Gulf States Toyota does not offer any. However, I know that Southeast Toyota (FLA,etc.) does. I have no idea what they cost. As an alternative to the regional option, you might consider somebody like Bushwacker ( http://www.bushwacker.com/ ) who specializes in these sorts of things (HL not on their web page yet). I sent them an e-mail and they sent their latest catalog which had an insert describing their flares for the HL (p/n 30904-02, no price given). You might be able to call and ask some questions at 800-234-8920.

    Others here might have some ideas also. Good luck.
  • kiowa01kiowa01 Member Posts: 2
    Anybody out there had any experience towing a trailer with V6 HL? I've got a Coleman camper that weighs approx 2000lb and am concerned about towing it with a 3.0L engine. Thanks in advance for information.
  • razzy2razzy2 Member Posts: 10
    SJZ and Mkstring -
    Thanks for your answers. We'll be heading out on the road tomorrow. Compared to my 97 Explorer the Highlander ride is creamy smooth and very quiet.

    pchiu -
    I'm in Winnipeg and the sticker on my loaded Highlander Limited was 46,625 (silver with ivory leather). I paid $46,025 which is a discount of just 1%. We have what Toyota calls Access Pricing here in Manitoba and Saskatchewan and no dealer will discount the Access price. Access pricing is supposed to make buying hassle and pressure free for the customer, but I think a 1% discount on $46,000 stinks. And it's not really pressure free because one dealer wouldn't budge from a ridiculously low price for my trade. The dealer that I did buy from gave me a fair price on my trade but I really had to work long and hard to get it.Toyota is planning to expand Access Pricing to Alberta and then nationwide. I almost bought an MDX, but it costs almost $4,000 more and requires premium gas. The display on the MDX demo I drove showed 15.7 litres per 100 km with almost 2300 km on the odometer. I'm at 13.9 L/100km after two days of mainly city driving. I am very happy with my Highlander.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Your Privacy

By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our Visitor Agreement.