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Comments
We say the problem is small as we do not forsee a need to drive with just the back windows down. We discovered the problem when I rolled the back window down by mistake (hit the rear window button instead of the front window).
Quick question: in the HL brochure the Bluestone HL has a gear box on top of the roof rack, does anyone know what make it is and possibly were it might be purchased? The dealer told me that Toyota doesn't sell these, that I should try some local Camper places. I did this and all they carry is the bulky tall ones. Nothing sleek and aerodynamic as the one in the brochure.
Anyhow, we all use the AC, right?
BTW, check out how the sunroof and headliner vibrates about 3/8" when you have the rear window down! Scary.
brgsmith
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-Steve
I just got my beautiful bluestone yesterday...yea! It came with a tire pressure of 40...and I can't seem to find the posts on tire pressures here. I've got the V6 AWD...at what pressure are you all setting your tires (bridgestones)? I know the door says 30 but I was thinking people were doing something different...any thoughts??? I did lower it down to around 35...should I go lower? Thanks!
I went with 32# front & rear.
-Steve
-Ret
Again IMO, start with the mfr. recommendations for the pressure respective to the vehicle loading, and adjust from there, staying below max. sidewall pressure. If it is not on a sticker on the door or door sill, it should be in your manual.
HTH
brgsmith
-Ret
See how much we learn from one another here?
-Ret
The rattle I am experiencing appears to be coming from around the front passenger seat area. I too had the rattle problem with the glovebox when we first received our HL, but after filling it with the manual and CD cases and other things it has gone away. The rattle in the seat area started around 4500 miles. I've got 5500 on it now. Plan to do some troubleshooting soon. It appears to go away when someone is sitting in the seat. Hmmm. It sounds like a very small rock bouncing around. I'll post what I find later.
With respect to tire pressure, I keep mine around 34 psig. The label on the door says 30 psig.
With 5500 miles we have not had any other real problems (other than the wind noise, which someone else is trying out a new molding).
However, if I'm correct HL has the same engine with RX300 and it requires super unleaded. Are there any different with theses 2 v6s? Can you let me know what the owner's manual suggested?
Thanks
The manual says: "for improved vehicle performance, the use of premium unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended.
That can be said of *any* car.
-Ret
I've had many new cars, and never believed in babying them during break in, and I've never had ANY engine trouble on a car I purchased new (knocking on wood). That's not to say I abuse the car, I just drive it normally from day one on. In my opinion, its more important NOT to set the cruise control to 55 (or any speed) on you brand new car and point it to the thruway, running at the same speed for a long time. By varying your speed, and letting your engine do some braking as well as propelling, you do a much better job of seating the rings in the cylinders. By winding the motor out a bit, I feel that you raise that wear ridge higher on the cylinder wall.
Now brakes are another story. Any time you have a brand new set of pads or shoes on a car, they make minimum contact with the rotor or shoe until they have a few hundred miles on them and are seated in. The less pad/shoe contact you have with the rotor/drum, the faster they will heat up and possibly glaze the friction surfaces or maybe even warp the rotor or create hard spots on the drum. So try to take it easy on new (or replacement) brakes, avoiding frequent sudden stops. Also, ALWAYS torque the lug nuts on all your vehicles, especially ones with rotors. In my opinion, improper torqueing is probably the single greatest cause of warped rotors.
I also think its very important to change the engine oil and filter within the first few hundred miles of a new engine's life. I try to do it within 500 miles. Here's my reasoning:
No matter how meticulous an engine manufacturer is, there are always going to be by-products of the manufacturing process (i.e. metal shavings, gasket materials, solvent residue, abrasives, etc.) stuck in the nooks and crannies of the engine. In addition, any machined surfaces that are in moving contact with other surfaces will shear off small bits of material as part of the normal wearing in process, with the most shearing occurring the very first time an engine is started. Why keep this material in you oil and filter for 3000 miles?
Sorry for the long rant, just wanted to share some of my opinions. Let me qualify all this by saying that I do have some backround, having worked in an automobile machine shop for many years, rebuilding engines, heads, alternators, starters, differentials, etc. Any comments or flames are welcome!
-Steve
lindau "Aftermarket leather upholstery" May 15, 2001 7:15pm
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Most modern engine control systems employ a gazillion sensors, and a good many systems use a "knock" or "ping" sensor to detect slight ping and then the computer retards the spark timing. This is a simplification, there are other adjustments being made, too. Any time the spark is retarded, the output of the engine is reduced a bit. High octane gas (91 to 93, depending on your locale) has additives that resist the detonation (ping). This allows the spark timing to be more advanced, and the engine to operate at a slightly higher specific output.
In the days before knock sensors and sophisticated computer control of engine management, the use of high octane gas didn't really do anything except stop the rattling noise under the hood, unless one was a shade tree mechanic or had their shop mechanic advance the spark timing to take advantage of the higher octane and thus reduce the tendancy to detonate. With a few to 5 degrees advanced timing, performance was noticably better, and gas mileage improved.
With today's computer controlled engines, it's as if one had a blurringly fast mechanic under the hood at all times, constantly adjusting what amounts to the position of the distributor housing (chances are your vehicle doesn't have one of these anymore) to attain optimum engine performance.
I used to think that folks using 91-93 octane were wasting money, but that was using my 60s and 70s automotive experience. Today, I can see where 91 octane might result in improved performance and possibly lower fuel consumption by allowing the engine to run with more advanced spark, in addition to other optimal settings.
brgsmith
I can hardly wait to get out on the open road and see how she does.
Hiyo, (Millenium) Silver, Away!
W
I think I have my glove box noise solved with the thing you put on kitchen cabinet doors, or actually the things you put on the bottom back of pictures when framed! Anyway, my mileage is not so hot, 18.7 in town. I haven't done alot of interstate driving. Any tips on how to improve this mileage? By the way my HL is the Red color
and there is only one other I have seen in my area
and that one is blue.
ON gas - the more important questions in my mind is does the extra $.20 - $.25 for 91 octane increase my MILEAGE enough to make it cost effective. On a 20 gallon fillup, I should get 360-400 miles at at 18-20 MPG. I'd have to see about a 10% increase in mileage (means going farther on the same amount of gas) to offset a 10% increase in price. And, gas is about $1.65 here in SE Houston.
with NJ,KS,AL,AR,UT,ID,LA,TO,and F. Any thoughts on this offer? I am not very good at this automobile buying. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Can you share with us your buying experience, if you don't mine. In terms of; how much you paid for your model (before tax),which dealer, are they willing to lower the price.....
Thanks.
Thanks for your insightful information. Is it safe to say we can use 87 octane on any engine without causing damage? If I understand this correctly engine performance is the only thing that may suffer from using the lower octane gas?
Thanks in advance for your input.
I am NOT saying that it is OK to use 87 octane in ANY vehicle. One should use the octane that the manufacturer specifies in the owners manual.
In my experience, recent (past 15 years) personal vehicles have all been spec'd by the manufacturer to use 87 octane. This included the late and unlamented 97 Jeep Cherokee which pinged like crazy on 87 in the summer. I would alternate tanks of 87 and 92, filling when the tank was about 1/2. No pinging following that regimen.
W.R.T. the HL, the manual says (paraphrasing) that 87 octane is fine, but performance might be improved by using 91. The HL might be one of the vehicles that has an engine management system that takes advantage of the higher octane (less tendancy to ping) and allows the engine to run at more optimum conditions (less retarded spark, etc.). This might translate into "more power" and less fuel consumption. As mkstring points out in #2340, one would have to evaluate the cost versus the benefit. A 10% increase in fuel economy (1.8 to 2.2 mpg) might be possible for a 10% increase in $$$ at the pump, particularly for someone in Indiana or Ohio as opposed to us PA "Highlanders" in the hills!
To reiterate, use the octane number that is specified by your manufacturer for the vehicle.
brgsmith
Our HL is actually my wife's car, and she does not get quite as good a mileage as do I, so this next statement is based on experience driving "my" car (a 1992 Acura). I have noticed the mileage has improved about 2-3 mpg of late. I think that is due to the blended fuel the Government requires during the winter for environmental reasons. I assume the gasoline is now back to the normal summer formulae.
I appreciate the comments regarding higher octane vs higher mileage. I am not interested in higher (faster) performance ... the HL is terrific on lower octane, but I wondered about the increase mileage.
Happy HL'ing to all.
http://www.vtec.net/news/items/681.html
My guess, based on quotes from seven dealers here, and what I've read in perhaps 1000 of the posts on this massive board, is that you be able to do around invoice plus $550 SE Toyota admin (can't get around it) plus $1000 or less. Other than the leather and console, most options are from the factory and the Edmunds pricing will help. Also, IMHO, the Toyoguard package is NOT worth the hefty investment, even if "the paint won't catch on fire" as one dealer tried to explain to me...
Try another dealer or get quotes from several internet site links (Carpoint, Autovantage, Edmunds, Autoweb ,etc.)
I did my homework, used to be in the car business with Budget, and had to negotiate for the first time in years. There is much variance in the market, so keep trying.
Good luck!
It saddens me to read your post. Being 17 does not excuse you from irresponsible behavior. But, I acknowledge what you describe is your "right" if that is your choice.
First, the HL is a beautiful piece of machinery to be driven "like a madman." Such behavior WILL eventually cause an accident, then think of the others that will be harmed.
Second, have you not heard we have an energy shortage in this country? Who pays for your gasoline? Papa?
I would not be feeling too good about what you have stated. When you get a bit older, you will come to understand the wisdom of that statement.
Others here might have some ideas also. Good luck.
Thanks for your answers. We'll be heading out on the road tomorrow. Compared to my 97 Explorer the Highlander ride is creamy smooth and very quiet.
pchiu -
I'm in Winnipeg and the sticker on my loaded Highlander Limited was 46,625 (silver with ivory leather). I paid $46,025 which is a discount of just 1%. We have what Toyota calls Access Pricing here in Manitoba and Saskatchewan and no dealer will discount the Access price. Access pricing is supposed to make buying hassle and pressure free for the customer, but I think a 1% discount on $46,000 stinks. And it's not really pressure free because one dealer wouldn't budge from a ridiculously low price for my trade. The dealer that I did buy from gave me a fair price on my trade but I really had to work long and hard to get it.Toyota is planning to expand Access Pricing to Alberta and then nationwide. I almost bought an MDX, but it costs almost $4,000 more and requires premium gas. The display on the MDX demo I drove showed 15.7 litres per 100 km with almost 2300 km on the odometer. I'm at 13.9 L/100km after two days of mainly city driving. I am very happy with my Highlander.