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Comments
Remove the spaces to make the links work
http://babelfish.altavista.com/urltrurl? lp=ja_en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.toyota.co.jp% 2FShowroom%2FAll_toyota_lineup%2FKlugerV% 2Fmechanism%2Findex2.html
DVD/Navi
http://babelfish.altavista.com/urltrurl? lp=ja_en&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.toyota.co.jp% 2FShowroom%2FAll_toyota_lineup%2FKlugerV% 2Faudio_navi%2Findex2.html
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/KlugerV/mechanism/index2.html
Paste it into the translate line at this site
http://world.altavista.com/
and select Japanese to English
Do the same for this link
http://www.toyota.co.jp/Showroom/All_toyota_lineup/KlugerV/audio_navi/index2.html
We've owned a LTD Highlander for 7 months now, and have truly enjoyed it. In fact, I sometimes feel like we're the family in the Highlander commercial; the family that's never home because they're always going places like the mall or to the beach, etc.
Today I brought my Accord V6 to the Honda dealership for an inspection and oil change. During that time, I test drove the Pilot EX (with leather) and was truly impressed. In a number of respects, the Pilot was a better vehicle than the Highlander. In comparison to the Highlander, the driver seat was firmer and more supportive. I also found the acceleration was better; I could really feel the 'G' force. I had test driven a current model CRV not too long ago, and thought that the shifter on the Pilot was the same type (one that comes out of the dashboard). However, that was not the case. The Pilot's shifter was on the column and quick and easy to maneuver. The 3rd seat was down and out of the way, so I could see that there was clearly about a foot more cargo space from the tailgate to the back of the second seat, in comparison to the cargo area of the Highlander (quite a bit of room in the Pilot). Finally, the Pilot's wider and taller center console allowed me to rest my arm on the console; unlike the Highlander, whose console height is just below the level of the seat. In the Highlander, you can use the fold down arm rest attached to the side of the seat, but the problem with that is that the arm rest is too narrow, and your arm tends to roll off to one side or the other of the arm rest. Also, when putting on the seat belt, the Highlander's arm rest should really be in the up position, otherwise it's tricky to attach the seat belt.
Despite all the minor shortcomings I've mentioned here, where the Pilot EX surpasses the Highlander LTD, there are still other areas that I believe the Highlander bests the Pilot. Overall, I feel the dashboard layout and appearance of the Highlander LTD has a more distinguished look than the Pilot. Granted, I concede that the wood grain look is only that, I still find that the appearance and the layout has a more rich look. I like the style and features of the Highlander's head unit as well (the radio with the built-in 6 cd changer). The Highlander has a double din sized radio, which I prefer, because the buttons are larger and easier to locate, especially when driving becomes a bit hectic (my Accord came with a double-sized radio, and really like it in that car, too). One negative here though, the sound quality of the 'premium stereo' in the Highlander LTD is not premium at all. I had all the speakers changed out (too much boomy bass) and added an amplifier for added power. But I did keep the radio to maintain the stock look and for the better AM reception (than any aftermarket head units I've seen), so I can listen to the Red Sox and Boston's WBZ radio when I'm in Maine. I prefer the size of the Highlander over that of the Pilot, because it suits our needs. The Pilot's a little too big for us. In fact, I'm afraid that the Pilot, with it's 6 inches of additional width (compared to the Highlander) would be more difficult to navigate into our 1 car garage. I find the Highlander manageable to negotiate into the garage, and into most parking spaces. Currently, the Pilot doesn't offer a sunroof as an option (at least from the factory, I think you can order this from the dealership, though). The Highlander's sunroof is nice and large, and is really fun to have. I prefer the shifter on the floor, as it is in the Highlander, as compared to the column shifter on the Pilot. I have more leverage with a floor based shifter than I do with one on the column.
I could go on, but overall I feel both vehicles are nice. I believe the competition will be healthy for both car makers.
Nissan interior bike rack instructions: http://www.xterraparts.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/InteriorBikeCarrier_Instr_pg1.html
I have been keeping the control set at the lowest possible (65 F) and cycling the compressor by hand with the A/C On/Off button to guarantee maximum efficiency. Do I need to do this or is the system smart enough to do it by itself?
Thanks,
Steve
From what I can determine these plastic components are just "bolt-on" and should directly fit. Apparently the Japaneese 2001 Kluger already had the console that was added to the 2002 model.
If you are interested in discussing this further off-line I can be reached at:
slund347 "AT" ieee "DOT" org <--Some Assembly Required!
Thanks,
Steve
The way your climate control regulates the cabin temperature is by chilling the A/C evaporator to about 34F, ALWAYS. All system airflow, fresh and recirc, is first passed through the COLD A/C evaporator to be chilled and hopefully "dried" in the process, then all or a portion of the chilled airflow is routed through the heater core using the "blend" vane/door to make the final determination of system outlet temperature.
When the system is active, heating or cooling, the A/C compressor control is a simple bang-bang servo, it is turned on when the condensor, high pressure side, refrigerant pressure declines below a certain value indicating the lack of availability of liquid refrigerant for cooling the evaporator.
Up until I acquired my first Lexus, a 92 LS, I had NEVER encountered an A/C system that ran the compressor below about 47F. Below about 55F the A/C compressor is a complete waste of energy, at least for purposes of cooling.
But.
Down to about 45-47F the system can be reasonably efficient for dehumidification purposes, a clear aid in more quickly removing condensation from the windshield interior surfaces and keeping the interior atmosphere free of gaseous water vapor, keeping the relative humidity low.
In the earlier Lexus models a low OAT, outside air temperature, 35F, was used to determine when to shut the A/C compressor cycling off.
But here's the real question, if the A/C compressor system is basically useless for cabin cooling below about 55F, why run it at all below that temperature, except in defog/demist mode, in which case it can only be used for that purpose with a reasonable expectation of efficiency down to about 45F?
What I have described above was, I believe, the predominant control method for simple automotive A/C, or luxury car "climate controls" up until about the early to mid-1980's for Japanese manufacturers, and about the early 90's for American.
So what changed?
The conversion from freon to the new less efficient, significantly less efficient, refrigerant, R-134a.
Automotive air conditioning system have ALWAYS exhibited a problem of mold and mildew odors, when you shut your system down in the evening there will ALWAYS be a thin film of previously condensed moisture left on the cooling vanes/surfaces of the A/C evaporator. Mold, bacterial spores, LOVE a damp, dark environment wherein they thrive mightily during the times when the plenum temperatures are above 55F.
That same thin film of moisture would also often be the source of a high humidity "breeze" coming from the system, sometimes fogging your windshield and windows up, when you first started up the car on a relatively cool morning.
Windshield and window fogging would also sometimes occur when these older A/C system designs would automatically shut down at an OAT of about 45-47F. Many of us never even took note of those latter occurances because they were usually only a slight nuisance because another aspect of the older design is that they ALWAYS used HEATED airflow in defog/demist mode.
Now we enter the era of R-134a.
How do you overcome the rather serious loss of cooling efficiency that seemed to be inherent in the switchover from freon to R-134a?
The A/C evaporator core in the 1984 Lincohn had 2500 square inches of cooling surface, the one in my 1992 Lexus has over 10,000 square inches. Remember that thin film of moisture on the evaporator surfaces that hangs around for hours, even days after the system is shut down? Now multiply it's mold and mildew breeding capability by a factor of at least four.
The new A/C evaporators got much more complex, almost to the point you might call them metal sponges. But regrettably simply making the A/C evaporator more dense and complex still didn't balance the equation.
So..
Better insulate the cabin, sure. Better cabin sealing against leakage of already cooled and conditioned airflow, sure. Reduce the level of cabin atmospheric outflow, exhauster airflow, sure.
But we're still not there for luxury class vehicles like the Lexus series.
Oh, the longer we leave milk in the refrigerator the more likely it's temperature will be lowered to the minimum. So, how can we move the system airflow so very sl o w l y through the system that it is cooled and dehumidified to the absolute maximum.
More insulation, sure, helps with road sound isolation too. Less air leakage, double up on the door and window seals, win-win, even less cabin road noise also. Reduce the exhauster size? Well no, the US government regulates those issues. But what about if you put the exhauster in a predominantly high air pressure area? Say at the bottom of the rear quarter panel where "at speed", the air pressure will always likely be higher than the cabin atmospheric pressure, especially if we can keep that blower speed down.
Japanese NipponDenso engineers:
Oops, we've got a problem, these damn Americans are continually complaining about the horrid mold and mildew smell coming out of the climate control airflow ducts, what can we do?
Well, we could run the A/C compressor all the way down to the absolute minimum, the longer we can keep those microbes coated with a thin covering of condensed moisture the less they will out-gas. The only downside is loss of gas economy, running the A/C compressor below 45F will be a complete waste of energy.
Done.
But people are still complaining about gym-socks odors...
Oh, I know, coat the A/C evaporator with a porous nylon mesh and embed an anti-microbe agent, chemical, into those pores. Problem solved!
Oops, got another problem, once the anti-microbe agent leaches out of those pores they then begin to act like a sponge holding condensed moisture for days on end until an almost "magic" atmospheric vapor pressure level is reached. Customers are reporting instances of sudden, seemingly spontaneous and almost total fogging over of the interior surface of their Lexus windshields as a result.
The US government is also beginning to ask "what, exactly, is in that anti-microbe coating, and how do we know what the long term effects might be on human metabolism?".
Oh, I know, instead of shutting down the A/C compressor with a near, or sub-freezing OAT, let's use the A/C evaporator's downstream airflow temperature sensor's indication that the evaporator core airflow is near freezing and if at the same time we increase the level of recirculating air the A/C compressor might never be shut down. No instances of sudden or spontaneous windshield fogging ever again.
The best way I have found to prevent the A/C compressor from operating needlessly is to put a switch in series with the high/low refrigerant pressure switches and leave the circuit open unless I want the compressor to operate. I have alleviated, mostly the instances of sudden window and windshield fogging by being certain the sunroof is fully open each night in the garage. And I have a Bi
And I have a Bio-zone UV source plugged into the rear power outlet to help combat the horrid odors.
There are also aftermarket devices that will run the system blower automatically about an hour after system shutdown to purge the remaining thin film of moisture from the evaporator vanes but most likely only into the cabin as a whole.
GM is including such a device in many new models.
Many new cars have now added built in pollen filters in hopes of denying the mold and mildew microbes the airborne "food" they need to live and thrive.
But, even today, Lexus, NipponDenso, and Denso engineers haven't fully figured out the proper equation needed to most quickly defog/demist your windows and windshield so you must remember to turn up the system heat at the same time you activate the defog/demist function.
A Lexus expert, under oath in a court of law, testified that my actions, turning up the blower speed to more quickly defog a suddenly fogged over windshield, were detrimental to the actual need to quickly defog the windshield.
In the "quick" instance, he was correct. In the Lexus design they rely strictly on the system's ability to dehumdify the airflow routed to the windshield in defog mode, thereby creating enough vapor pressure of the airflow near the windshield surface to evaporate the condensed moisture from that surface. And what he was telling the court was that the slower the airflow is over the chilled evaporator surfaces the more it will be dehumdified and the quicker the windshield will be cleared.
The problem is that Lexus and Denso have the whole vapor pressure equation wrong. A much greater vapor pressure differential can be created, much quicker, by simply opening the mixing vane to the full heat position. DRAMATICALLY increasing the rate at which the windshield will clear, and in the process heating it to bring its surface dewpoint beyond the point of promoting condensation.
Could it be ??
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
The operative words are "too far" and "too long" and my note wasn't addressed to anyone in particular except to note that I found yours entertaining! :-)
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
I am looking for a base model AWD 6 cyl Highlander.
The only option I require is the stability/traction control.
I do not want the added price/options of the limited.
Dealers in the Southeast region cannot help and carsdirect.com could not find one.
I am willing to travel to pick one up.
Thanks
I like it better than the NHTSA because the offset crash testing is done at 40 mph instead of 35.
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/0117.htm
To me it's a must have, we use it all the time.
It's darkly tinted, has an auto open and close feature, and doesn't have any issues yet(knock on faun wood). As for wind noise I hear a little but when you close the cover it's pretty quiet.
The Highlander is a very quiet vehicle to start with.
AC condensers all have drains, I haven't had any problems with ours. We live in eastern MA and have had it working overtime this last week ourselves.
I did have a Maxima a number of years ago and it clogged up all the time. It didn't leak into the car though, but that is where the HL cabin air filter is located.
I am currently out of town and don't have the info with me.
Thank You.
Re: Sunroof
We have a sunroof on our HL, but we very rarely use it. If we had the choice, we wouldn't have chosen it. But with the other options we wanted, almost all HL's came with a sunroof.
You may also find a dealer in the middle of nowhere who has one to sell but that is also tough. Order the Highlander the way you want it and wait for it, ask you dealer to locate (if it is out there) and get it for you. The real question is which vehicle do you want the Highlander or the Pilot. Both seem nice, neither has make me faint styling. But I like the Highlander better for interior styling and potential comfort.
The original equipment filter is 90915-20003. There is a very slight size difference, (new one is shorter)
Is the YZZB1 an updated filter?
Hate to take a chance!!! THX!!
Thanks.
I've been thinking about getting an aftermarket sunroof for my HL. If you get it, let me know how it is. : )
Used 01 HL. Aren't brand new 02 AWD HL's available for about $30k? Doesn't sound at all like a good deal if my $30k number is even close.
Now, if I were the type of person who liked sunroofs and it wasn't possible to get a HL with one unless I got a bunch of other options that I didn't want to pay for, I'd have to consider it.
As a salesman, I have had dozens of roofs installed over the past 9 years. As a dealership, we probably have 15 done a month. Of those, we do see a small number of them come back with problems. Those problems are nearly always electrical and are fixed quickly. I have never seen one installed that had leaking problems or any other failure beyond the first few days (again, wiring problems that were fixed).
Aftermarket roofs don't add to resales value. I want to be careful how I phrase this so bear with me. In five years, if you want to sell it and you have a factory roof, you would generally take the base price and add for the roof. With an aftermarket roof, you just wouldn't add anything for the extra equipment. This means that one with an aftermarket roof will not be worth as much as one with a factory roof but will be no less than one without any roof at all. Does that make sense?
Thanks
Perhaps the majority of us simply wouldn't even consider purchasing a "modded-up" used vehicle so our votes never actually come into your equation, just a lower sales price as a result of less competition for buyers.
You NEVER see us in the market so we don't get "counted".
On my 01 AWD RX I see no circuitry, active or passive, in the shop manuals to suppress these events. Therefore I would not be surprised if the generated EMI/RFI event were sometimes of a great enough magnitude to cause the engine ECU to "burp" momentarily.
I saw one post recently wherein an aftermarket HID install caused the TRAC fail indicator to be continuously on.
If you happen to have the cruise control enabled then it might even be that ECU that "burps".
With a 4 cylinder this is expected, with a 6 cylinder heavily loaded this can be felt by some.
I have only slid the roof back into the full open position ... maybe twice, and for only a short time. But I do like the feature that allows you to cant the rear open ..... and have used it that way frequently .... especially in cool weather.
We live in New England where the heat is not normally a factor. I do like the light that comes in, and normally ride with the shade open, but the window closed.
Would I buy another with the moon roof? Only if it came at no additional cost.
Happy HL'ing to all.