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Comments
Instructions are in the user manual and are simple to follow.
They provide a service that people are willing to pay for. Unclogging a drain is even easier but many choose to call a plumber.
tidester, host
I will look in my serivce manual tonight to see if its in there
HL's V6 and Camry's V6 and Lexus ES300's V6 are the same 1MZ-FE design except that Camry's V6 still doesn't come with VVT-i.
How come the 1MZ-FE in Camry and ES300 come with a ULEV cerfication and HL's V6 is only LEV?
Isn't the addition of VVT-i help reducing emissions?
I can write up the steps - should people want to know how to add extra remotes, or replace a damaged remote, or even clear the old code with a fresh one. I don't trust service people with my vehicles - just had too many bad experiences.
http://community.webshots.com/user/candyman85233
Enjoy!
/Ron
I recommend going to a Toyota Service dept, or buy a service manual
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The add mode is used to register a new recognition code while still retaining codes already registered. This mode is used to add a new transmitter. If the number of registered codes exceeds 4, the previously registered codes will be erased in order starting from the first registered code.
The rewrite mode is used to erase all previously registered codes in order to register all new recogition codes. This mode exchange the transmitter or door control receiver for a new one
The prohibition mode is used to erase all the registered codes and disables the wireless door lock function. Use this mode when the transmitter is lost.
The confirmation mode is used to confirm how many recognition codes have already been registered before the additional registration of the recognition codes.
A) Make sure the vehicle fulfills the following conditions
1) No key is inserted in the ignition
2) The driver side door glass is fully open
3) the driver side door is open(the other doors are closed)
4) the driver side door is unlocked (the other doors are locked)
b) Select a Mode
1) Insert the key into the ignition key cylinder, then pull it out (perform this operation once again within 5 seconds)
2) Close and open the drivers door twice
3)insert the key into the ignition key cylinder, then pull it out
4) Close and open the driver side door twice.
5) Insert the key plate into the ignition key cylinder, then close the door
6) To select a mode, turn the ignition switch from ON to LOCK at approximately 1 second intervals as follows
Add mode: lock-on-lock
Rewrite mode: lock-on-lock-on-lock
Confirm mode: lock-on-lock-on-lock-on-lock
Prohibition mode: lock-on-lock-on-lock-on-lock-on-lock-on-lock.
7) within 3 seconds after a mode has been selected, the mpx ecu automatically performs lock-unlock operation to inform the operator which mode has benn selected. (the lock - unlock sequence will match the lock-on sequence numbers.
Hint when the confirmation mode has been selected and 0 codes are registered, lock-unlock operation is automatically performed 5 times.
When the confirmation code is selected and the lock-unlock operation has been performed twice as shown in the illustration below, the number of registered codes is 2 (not the timing will be 2 second intervals not 1 second).
c) Register the transmitter
1) within 40 seconds after the add mode or the rewrite mode has been selected, simultaneously press the lock and unlock switches (transmitter) for 1 to 1.5 seconds. Then press either one of the switches for more than 1 second
As the pads wear - the caliper pistons move to keep the pads close to the disk. The increase in volume behind the piston requires extra brake fluid. Thats why the reservoir goes down.
I wouldn't add fluid to the reservoir unless its below minimum. When it comes time to replace your brake pads - the pistons have to be pushed back into the calipers. The extra fluid had to go back into the reservoir - you may overflow the reservoir.
Does anyone have any experience/insight regarding HL performance on sand? We live on long Island, NY and drive on the beach in the summer - tire pressure is lowered to 15psi - I have been in a subaru outback AWD that went fine on the beach ...any information would help. thanks
We have 34,000 miles on our 2001 and haven't done any major services yet. I am not planning on doing any major services until about 60,000. What do y'all think?
Happy HL'ing
The service was expensive, though. I probably could've done most of it myself.
Variable valve timing helps reduct emissions, yes, but a big piece of it is also the number and type of catalytic converters used, as well as little things like how quickly the converters light off (a function of where they are located in the exhaust line) as well as how the car is programmed to run when it is cold (when most of the emissions occur) and other stuff like that. All those factors are bound to vary a little between models.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Maybe I will wait until 90k to get any major service...who knows.
HEY! My check engine light came on also, and they said it was the gas cap thing too! Must be standard training for the service techs. Turned out to be a disconnected hose that somehow came loose in the engine compartment.
Just keep them clean using a good leather cleaner/preserver and enjoy.
Solara is in the same situation, its version of the 1MZ-FE also lacks VVT-i.
Camry's V6 is praised by all the online reviews for its quietness and smoothness and it is powerful enough, but bashed for its lack of power when compared to competing V6s like Honda's and Nissan's.
The 1MZ-FE in HL, RX300, ES300, Avalon, Sienna all have VVT-i though.
My question is why Camry's V6 lacks VVT-i, but still get a ULEV certification, but HL's V6 has VVT-i, but only with a LEV certification. Toyota currently has only one V6, the 1MZ-FE.
Lexus IS300 and GS300 get the inline 6 cylinder.
For many months now I have been theorizing that the Chrysler T&C minivan's AWD system is greatly superior to that of the RX and the HL. My theory was based on the fact that the T&C AWD system had a method for uncoupling the two drivelines, front and rear, when the brakes are applied resulting in the need for disparate rotational rates front to rear.
The front brakes do about 80% of the work required to stop the vehicle and in so doing they very often turn very slowly. If that slow rate of rotation were to be coupled to the rear driveline then loss of control would oftentimes be the result.
The T&C has an over-running clutch in the rear driveline for just that purpose, allowing the rear wheels to turn at a higher rate than the front during braking.
But, up until this morning I had no T&C with which to prove out my theory. My daughters 98 is here at the moment.
So I jacked it up so all four wheels were off the ground and repeated the shade-tree mechanic's AWD test that I performed on the 01 AWD RX300.
As it happened I was not able to block the rear wheels from turning in exactly the same manner as the RX. The 98 T&C wheels do not have wide enough openings to insert the light pine 1X2' with the thin dimension to "shear". So in this case the T&C had to shear the 2" dimension if the rear wheels were to turn.
With my foot firmly on the brake and the engine at idle I shifted the transmission into gear and then started releasing the brakes. The right rear 1X2 sheared virtually instantly, at engine idle. To be sure this wasn't a fluke I blocked the right rear with an oak 1X2. The left rear 1X2 sheared virtually the instant I started releasing the brakes.
I repeated the test one more time just as assurance.
The RX300 rear wheels would not shear the thin dimension of the 1X2 even with the engine RPM raised to 2000.
Anyway, I just had to try the one place that was always a challenge in either my wife's Camry, or my old RWD Volvo 945T (LSD). My daughter's old daycare driveway - a steep hill with a nice off-camber entrance apron.
First, I was able to negotiate the off-camber entrance with no problems. I came to a stop at the bottom of the hill, and just punched it. Up the drive it went. No wheels spinning, no theatrics. Just dug in and went.
Good enough test for me. The Camry might have made it, but not without finessing the gas pedal. The Volvo wagon (best rear-wheel-drive car in snow I've ever had), would have been stuck.
My old '85 Cherokee was great in 4WD, but really terrible in 2WD. I remember always shifting in & out of 4WD with that thing between the slippery spots and the dry spots to avoid adding stress to, and winding up the gear-driven mechanical components.
No need to worry about any of that with an always-on, fluid-coupled system.
Just don't drive it downhill on that snow and ice before checking that your insurance is fully paid up.
Thanks in advance!
Gary
2001 H/L V6 2WD 'Base'
Millennium Silver
On a slippery downhill surface inertia will oftentimes cause the rear of the vehicle to pivot around the "braking" point.
trdgt Mar 2, 2002 6:50pm
Steve, Host
I have seen mentions of an error code associated with the gas cap. I looked back through a bunch of pages but could not find that subject. If someone has a link or message number or synopsis I would appreciate it. Also would like to know where the diagnostic port on the HL is located and if the error codes for the HL are the same as most other Toyota models.
Thanks
goldston "Toyota Highlander Owners: Problems & Solutions" Jul 26, 2002 2:14pm
Steve, Host
You mean there's something else besides Microsoft's Internet Explorer? Better not tell Bill Gates. :-)
Dave
With the $500 over invoice silver HL.