Toyota Highlander

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You mean there's something else besides Microsoft's Internet Explorer?

    Can you say Opera?

    Or how about NetScape and it's next incarnation, Mozilla! :-)

    I won't tell Bill if you won't!

    tidester, host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I much prefer Bill, but I try to throw a bone to the AOL stuff and Opera now and then ;-). After losing file after file in Lotus 1-2-3 and then discovering Excel, I can find little wrong with MS. Win 2.0 wasn't good enough to replace Desqview but Win 3.1 was the ticket.


    Why haven't you put a pic of your new ride up in Toyota Highlander Owners: Photo Gallery yet Scanner?


    Steve, Host

  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    I don't think he really cares, he's too busy giving away money.
  • briegelbriegel Member Posts: 139
    Steve...Great to come across someone else who was a devoted Desqview user! I totally agree with your comment!

    Buzz (RX300 owner who seriously considered the Highlander, and who is very tired of Williard West!)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Yeah, and Mitch Kapor had the spreadsheet monopoly back then too - that really irritated me!

    wink, nudge

    Steve, Host
    (oh yeah, the down arrow still works for those messages you'd rather ignore)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    NOT Williard.
  • nimrod99nimrod99 Member Posts: 343
    Correct me if I am wrong - but from searching on the internet (especially Japanese websites - which I can't read) it looks like the Highlander AWD is set up with the transmission driving both front and rear drive trains.

    I would expect if the VC was after the front transaxle - you would get the effect wwest proclaims (90-10 front to rear torque distribution). However as the VC is between the transmission and both front and rear drive trains - then each would get a 50-50 split.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    The RX and HL both have an open center diff'l with the transmission driving the input to the center diff'l. If traction is roughly equal (high or low) front and rear then the torque distribution from an open center diff'l will also be roughly equal.

    But now let's say one front wheel hits a spot of ice and begins to spin. Left to itself the center open diff'l (along with the front open diff'l)would simply route ALL of the available engine torque to that one wheel.

    In the RX and HL the VC is connected between the two output shafts of the center diff'l and if it had the correct fluid formulation it would very quickly "stiffen up", effectively "locking" the two center diff'l output shafts together. Moderate locking at first and then if the condition persisted the VC fluid would increase the locking coefficient to the point wherein 50% of the engine torque would become available to the rear driveline.

    The problem Lexus had to overcome was if the driver suddenly and severely applied the brakes while the VC locking coefficient was fairly high then the severe braking on the front wheels would be coupled through the locked drive train to the rear wheels. Forcing the rear wheels to turn as slowly as the front during braking can oftentimes lead to loss of control.

    Some vehicles with a VC for center diff'l "locking" use an over-running clutch in the rear driveline so the rear wheels can "over-run" the front wheels during severe braking while the center diff'l is (partially) locked.

    Lexus chose the "docility", SOFT, route to overcome the potential for this problem. The native, initial VC coupling coefficient is practically non-existant, and the attack rate at which the VC increases its coupling coefficient with disparate traction front to rear is very shallow.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    I'm getting sort of tired saying this, but you love talking about the AWD systems in the HL and RX in grandiose terms that obfuscate the fact that the systems work perfectly well and effectively for the great majority of owners. Lexus didn't need to overcome the problem you're talking about because "if the driver suddenly and severly applied the brakes while the VC locking coefficient was fairly high", then the brakes would apply to the rear wheels via the rear brakes the same time that the front brakes apply and all four wheels would slow and stop at the same time.

    I and several other people posting here have given multiple examples of how the AWD systems in these vehicles work effectively and efficiently. How you get yourself into these situations that you say that you do and as often as you do continually amazes me. These are not built to traverse the antarctic. If you wanted to own a vehicle that will do so, buy a Landcruiser or LX470.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I'm getting sort of tired saying this, but...

    My mouse has a wheel that let's me scroll past stuff I don't want to read by simply turning it with my index finger! Works great!

    tidester, host
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    That's true. I'll try to keep my comments a bit more on topic.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Sorry guys - I had to remove the last few posts as they contribute NOTHING to the discussion! :-)

    tidester, host
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Awww... shucks.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Ever hear of brake proportioning valves?

    Yes/no?

    They were used in the "olden" days to proportion the brake pressure so the rear wheel brakes didn't recieve as much pressure as the front.

    Early ABS? Typically rear braking only.

    Today we have automatic brake pressure distribution electronically.

    Modern day anti-lock braking cannot work on the rear wheels/tires if the front wheels are turning slower and are coupled to the rear wheels via a "locked" center diff'l.

    That's one of the reasons we're seeing many new 4WD vehicles that will only fully lock the center diff'l in low (granny grunt) range, and other that automatically unlock when the brakes are applied.
  • jwfjwfjwfjwf Member Posts: 21
    Tidester, you said, "Sorry guys - I had to remove the last few posts as they contribute NOTHING to the discussion!"

    But in fairness, neither do the self-indulgent monologues of an expatriate from another board...
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    But in fairness...

    In fairness, I won't mention the names of those whose posts were removed - end of story.

    tidester, host
  • sportsterersportsterer Member Posts: 27
    somebody open a window, quick, them mule fritters are gettin' strong again...
  • gwkisergwkiser Member Posts: 326
    "In fairness, I won't mention the names of those whose posts were removed - end of story."

    (waving arm and frantically jumping up and down in the back of the room)

    CAN I??!!!
  • mr_physicsmr_physics Member Posts: 14
    I want to run some cables behind the dash and within the console of my 2002 Highlander. Could some one give me some guidance on..
    -how to get access to the underside of the dash
    -how to get access to the interior of the console
    -how to remove the radio
    -a convenient point to tap into always-on 12v.

    I want to install a neat, semi-permanent cable set for a Garmin StreetPilot III GPS, with power cable, speaker lead, and external antenna lead.

    Hoping someone can help.

    Cheers
    G
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Do what I do when faced with this type of dilemma. Take a phillips screw driver, a flashlight and some needle nose pliers to the garage and have at it. I find that by removing enough fasteners and screws, I will eventually get things apart. When re assembling, you will also need a roll of duct tape and a trash can to throw the... ummm... extra screws away.
  • mr_physicsmr_physics Member Posts: 14
    That is what I am trying to avoid. Extra parts = rattles later!
    I tried your method with my BMW E36, and got really frustrated (black screw heads w. covers, black plastic, dark garage, etc). A web search helped enormously, but the HL has not been out long enough or it attracts a different type of owner.

    There are plugs on the sides of the console, obviously covering screw heads, and I can see the screws that need to come out to move the lower dash panel. Just trying to avoid excessive disassembly.
    Trying NOT to run a 12V line from the other side of the firewall.
    I cannot understand why Toyota has BOTH 12V outlets switched with the key. At least one should be live at all times for low-current applications such as mobile phone chargers, GPS etc. They should learn from the Germans.

    G
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    It drives me nuts too that they don't leave one of the 12 volt plugs on all the time. I have a Tundra with the lighter and two power plugs and you would think that they would let me use one without the key.

    BTW, how do you like the Garmin? My dealership doesn't do a huge amount of aftermarket accessories but the dealership my girl friend does. I was telling her about the Garmin unit and she is thinking about offering them to her customers as an after sale. It seems a natural on things like the HL and Sequoia where you can't get factory navigation.
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    "I cannot understand why Toyota has BOTH 12V outlets switched with the key."

    To protect the type of person who would plug in a coffee pot on a timer I'm sure is mostly why. Toyota has a lot of room when it comes to figuring out the electrical little things.

    "how to get access to the underside of the dash."

    Put your head on the floor and look up to access the lower dash area. Access to the upper dash area is slightly more difficult. The dash is actually one big piece, though it appears to be upper and lower halfs.

    "how to get access to the interior of the console."

    I have a 2001 that doesn't have a full console, but my shifter cover was held on with screw head clips that pop loose with a good tug in the right place. Be careful, as there was a lot of metal inside of mine.

    "how to remove the radio."

    To access the radio, simply pry loose the inserts in correct order that surround the radio/climate control. Be careful not to scratch anything.

    "a convenient point to tap into always-on 12v."

    You're on your own with this one. I'm sure there are several possibilities, but I would use the inconvenient + terminal on the battery with a in line fuse.
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    Steve,

    Seen one... you've seen them all.

    Just imagine your typical HL with break dust on the wheels. :-)
  • mr_physicsmr_physics Member Posts: 14
    It is a really good unit, but none of these things passes the "would I give it to my dad" test (I am 50+). Magellan 750 (Hertz Neverlost) might, but at $2K US is a bit much.

    Screen is great! Highly visible in almost any light, and automatically switches to light-on-dark night mode at local twilight. Backlight has to be turned almost off for night driving.
    Display is only configurable to a degree. Some of Garmin's other units let you choose which data fields you have on screen, but this one does not. I like to see altitude and heading but you only get speed, direction of travel or to next turn etc.
    128 MB of downloadable maps means you pretty much have to have access to a laptop when you travel long distances.(Whole US + limited CDN coverage on 2 CDs)
    Voice prompting works well. Optional UK voice gives it a bit of "weakest link" flavour.

    Mounting on the HL is not that hard. I used a couple strips of superlock fastener (plastic velcro-like stuff from RS) to stick a RAM mount centrally over the clock area. Using the longer RAM arm, you can move it freely so that the passenger or the driver, or even both, can see it and use the controls. Power cable and custom speaker cable snake down the right side of the dash, held in place by tap-in coax clips. Speaker is stuck under the console, in the tunnel, with more superlock.

    GPS Rcvrs are nice for us Canadians when we travel in the US, so we can get a nice, visible, speed readout in those old-fashioned units folks use down there.
    BMW Motorcycles is now marketing the unit with their machines as well.
  • duckshooterduckshooter Member Posts: 156
    "a convenient point to tap into always-on 12v."

    Is there a fuse block inside the passenger area? I used this in my 4Runner. Internal lights work without the key in the ignition - locate the terminal on the fuse block. Pull the fuse. Wrap the exposed wire around one leg of the fuse. Plug it back into the fuse block with your wire on the downstream (after the fuse) side - this protects your Garmin... or you can just use an inline fuse on the Garmin and not worry about upstream, downstream. When you push the fuse in, the pinching secures the wire in place. Just be sure not to short the fuse with your wire - it defeats the protection of the fuse. Worst case, you may burn your fuse out and have to switch to the next bigger size, but I don't think your Garmin will draw more than my Passport radar detector - and that's how it was wired for 8 years.
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    Duckshooter,

    I haven't seen the type of fuse you are thinking about used in vehicles for quite some time. Anyway, exercise extreme caution when attempting to tap in to a multiplexed electrical system.
  • thensleythensley Member Posts: 4
    Reference my message 6853:

    Gosh, was it what I said or my tone of voice?
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    A belated thanks for the scoop on incorporating links to message numbers in posts.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    I can't speak to the dash but to remove the center console (it comes out in one big piece):

    1. Remove the decorative hammered metal or woodgrain plastic bezel encompassing the gear shift lever by pulling straight up on it from the inside, remove the connectors to the cigarette lighter and 12V outlet, and remove the three screws securing the console to the dash.

    2. Snap-off the two plastic caps on the bottom of either side of the console and remove the screws.

    3. Remove the felt from the bottom of the inside of the main storage compartment in the console and remove the two bolts.

    4. Remove the console while disconnecting the connector between the dash and the console. I believe either one of the front seats, or one or both of the armrests attached to the front seats, will need to be removed; otherwise the console will be trapped by the armrests attached to the front seats.

    One place an always-on 12V line exists is where the main 12V power line enters the radio/cassette/CD player (blue and yellow wire; pin 1 on Limited models; pin 4 on non-limited models); this line connects to the 25A RADIO NO. 1 fuse in the engine compartment.
  • mr_physicsmr_physics Member Posts: 14
    Exactly what I needed. I don't really need to take the thing out. Just want to tap my Garmin power line into 12v without using the sockets,run a serial NMEA line to a data logger, and hide the speaker for the GPS. I hate loose cables and stuff plugged permanently into the cigar lighter outlets.
    I was thinking of running the power from one of the reading lights or from the garage door opener in the sunshade. Console sounds simpler. Might grab power for a radar detector up top, though.
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    Thensley,

    What exactly do you want to know about fuel cap error codes?

    The ODB II port is located at the bottom of the dash, close to the hood release. I would imagine that the codes are still the same.
  • thensleythensley Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for the reply.
    Just wanted to know if there was some error code associated with the fuel cap. Found on another group that leaving cap loose could cause a check engine light. That is all I needed to know.

    Thank you again for the location of the port. I am used to finding them under the hood and also had one vehicle where it was under the top edge of the carpet. I do admit to only making a cursory effort to find it and apologize for that.
  • oldconcholdconch Member Posts: 3
    I got linked to post #6818 (tks bluestone03!) for programing instructions for keyless remote and I understand the need for nemrod99's "disclaminer" but was interested if anyone has tried and either succeeded/failed with the instructions? BTW When I was searching the web I did see a TSB on this subject(EL010-01) that was issued for 02 HL but was unable to get to it without subscribing to a service.
  • pasqualpasqual Member Posts: 22
    Does anyone know of a decent H/L maintenance manual besides the outrageously priced factory volumes
  • roadrunner70roadrunner70 Member Posts: 241
    MANY MONTHS AGO, SOMEONE SAID THEY HAD AN ENGINE VIBRATION PROBLEM AND THAT THEY WERE TAKING IT IN FOR EVALUATION/REPAIR. IF THAT PERSON IS ON THIS BOARD, PLEASE TELL US WHAT HAPPENED.

    I HAVE DRIVEN SEVERAL 2002 HL W/6CYL. ENGINE AND I CAN DEFINITLY FEEL THE ENGINE RUNNING WHILE SITTING AT A LIGHT IN DRIVE WITH THE FOOT ON THE BRAKE, BUT THE ONE I OWN IS WITHOUT A DOUBT THE VERY WORST. sINCE BRAND NEW, IT HAS BEEN BACK TO THE DEALER FOR THIS SEVERAL TIMES, BUT THE DEALER SAYS ITS OK.

    I CAN'T ACCEPT A $30k PLUS VEHICLE WHICH IS SO CRUDE, BUT UNLESS I WANT TO TRY AND LEMON LAW THE VEHICLE, THERE IS NO SOLUTION EVEN THOUGH TOYOTA MUST KNOW THEY ALL VIBRATE TO SOME DEGREE. ANYONE HAVE ANY THOUGHTS ON THIS PROBLEM. I SUSPECT A BAD MOTOR MOUNT(S). ANY TSB ON THIS??
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I think everyone would appreciate it if you would turn off you caps lock! :-)

    tidester, host
  • troyy2ktroyy2k Member Posts: 91
    Is the Bluestone Metallic a new color for 2003? It appears to be a slightly different shade of blue than the 2002 model. Has anybody else noticed this?
  • troyy2ktroyy2k Member Posts: 91
    I am in the process of considering leasing either a 2003 Highlander Limited, or a 2003 Acura MDX. Because of the higher residual value of the MDX, it seems I would be paying the same, or even a little less, to lease a $35,000 Acura MDX than if I were to lease a $31,000 Highlander. Am I wrong here? The 36 month residual on the Acura is something like 62 percent, and the highest residual I've seen on the highlander is 55 percent.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    The color code is the same, so the color itself should be identical. What you may be seeing is the difference that the metalic paint makes depending on how the light hits it.
  • landdriverlanddriver Member Posts: 607
    troyy2k, also note the Highlander comes in two different shades of blue: bluestone metallic and indigo ink pearl.
  • scannerscanner Member Posts: 295
    Troyy2k,


    Residual value alone doesn't mean everything since its based on MSRP. In my area a $35K MDX goes for $35K, but a $31K HL can be had for $28.5K all day long.


    Vehicle.....MSRP.....Capitalized Cost.....Residual Value......Real World Cost

    HL............$31K........$28.5K.................$17K @ 55%.........$11.5K

    MDX.........$35K........$35K....................$21.7K @ 62%......$13.3K


    http://www.edmunds.com/finance/leasing/articles/43093/article.html


    Go shopping and negotiate some real world values to be certain.

  • troyy2ktroyy2k Member Posts: 91
    I have a general question regarding the VSC option on a 4X4 v6 Higlander. I live in Southern California, where it rarely rains and never snows. Would the VSC be of benefit on dry pavement (i.e. in emergency handling on dry pavement), or is it only beneficial in snow or rainy conditions?
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    I've played with the VSC and it is extremely difficult to make it engage on dry pavement. It is not impossible but nearly so. While at a "ride and drive" I managed to engage it on an Avalon and the instructors didn't believe me until I told them I heard the audible alarm.
  • stevesr1stevesr1 Member Posts: 28
    I am looking for a factory center console to put in my 2001 grey interior Highlander.

    If you have a 2002/3 and would like the walk-through aisle we could arrange a trade. These are all just bolt-in plastic pieces for the most part.

    I would also appreciate it if anyone could let me know of any of these that might have been totaled and sitting in a salvage yard somewhere.

    I can best be reached at:

    slund347 "at" ieee "dot" org <-- some assembly required due to SPAM prevention!

    Thanks,

    Steve
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Please, no buying and selling (or trading) on Town Hall. Try the local wrecking yard - most of those guys are hooked together with computers and can search all over. Or you might find one on eBay.

    Steve, Host
  • lexus_addictedlexus_addicted Member Posts: 24
    Toyota really needs a 3rd row seat in the HL to maintain its competitiveness. Honda Pilot got one, Acura MDX got one, even the cheap Suzuki XL7 got one.

    Do you think Toyota will manage to add a 3rd row in the current HL design or will Toyota wait for the HL redesign to add a 3rd row seat?
  • 03bluestone03bluestone Member Posts: 47
    I have been told - from those who have tried the Pilot, RX300, and HL- that the 3rd row seat in the Honda Pilot is only suitable for kids (or very short adults) - and that the 2nd row legroom is less than the HL's. I am very happy with the generous amount of HL's second row seat's legroom and would hate to see Toyota decrease it at the detriment of 2nd seat passengers just so they can get in more small bodies in the vehicle - unless they increase the overall length of the vehicle.
  • 03bluestone03bluestone Member Posts: 47
    Per KBB the rear legroom for the Highlander is 36.4 inches, but the Honda Pilot rear legroom is only 30.2 inches - 6 1/4 INCHES LESS ! (It seems to me that this would be uncomfortable for tall adults on long trips.)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    My guess would be that until or unless Toyota adds a third seat to the much larger 4runner then none of these smaller "two seaters" will get a third seat.
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