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18mpg city.
24mpg hwy.
21 mpg combination city and highway, flat smooth terrain, conservative acceleration.
Only getting approx. 12 mpg.
I hope its because of still breaking in, only 3,100 miles & the very cold weather.
It seems that my mileage is not even close to those posted. Have any Highlander owners started out with poor gas mileage & increased after broken in?
BUT, that included a 5,509 mile trip pulling a 2800 lb. tent trailer over a number of high mountain passes--same load as above, plus travel/camping gear. For that trip, using premium fuel, the average was 17.79.
Taking out the trip with the trailer, the overall average comes out to about 19.55.
I get between 21.7 and 22.7 for mixed driving (nearly always right at 22 except if I use premium, then it goes up about .5 or so....not enough to pay for the difference)
In freeway driving I get between 23.5 and 25.5 (mostly right at 24 and again, premium gives me a slight increase of about .7 or so). I drive at 75-80 mph on freeway, so I am quite pleased with this mileage.
When I tow my 750 pound motorcycle or personal water craft (about 1000 pounds each counting trailers) the mileage drops to 21 on the freeway.
I recently towed a newly purchased boat from Jacksonville Florida to East Tennessee (uphill the whole way!!)at about 55-60 mph. The boat exceeded the tow rating of 3500 pounds....it weighs 4200 plus the trailer (5.7 Liter inboard/outboard V8 that is 24 ft. long on 26 ft aluminum trailer with alum wheels). I got 14 mpg and that 3.0L was working hard all the way (600 miles)
3,200 miles, all stop & go.
12 mpg. Easy acceleration. There must be something wrong. I have not seen any other messages with this same low mileage. Any possible causes or solutions?
How could a H2 Hummer get 10mph & HL 12??
I think you said it yourself.
3,200 miles, all stop & go.
The HL is rated at 18 city/22 hwy. If it's mostly stop and little go then your mileage will vary. As an extreme example, consider that if you spend "ALL" your time idling then you will get 0 mpg.
tidester, host
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Changed to synthetic at 5000 miles. Now it is 19.7 on the same trip. And, of course, it would go down to 19.2 on the way up, returning to 19.7 by the time we got home.
Last week I filled with 92 octane to see if it made any difference. I guess it did, but not worth it: it's still 19.7 at the end of the day but it only goes down to 19.5 on the uphill trip each day. Can't figure why that doesn't change the "end of the day" mileage, but it's obviously not enough to warrant the higher price, even though (as a percentage of increase) higher octane is a bargain these days.
If so is this something that the dealer can program?
thanks for any info!
By the way, I've got about 38K miles on it so far.
Do you fill up at the same gas station?. I ask because there is a slight possibility that their pumps may be calibrated incorrectly (ie it says 12 gallons when you actually got 11.5 gallons).
To really check your vehicle. Try going on a 100 mile trip in the country with no stop and go traffic. Then recheck your mpg.
If you don't get 18+ mpg - then you will know you have a problem.
Then my assumption would be that for every engine revolution the rear wheels would (want to) move the vehicle farther than the front. The rear wheels turn faster than the front for any given engine speed.
If the above assumption is correct then the rear wheels would always provide the primary motive force, would they not?
I have proven, at least to my own satisfaction, that the AWD RX300 on low traction surfaces is ALWAYS predominantly a FWD vehicle.
So what gives? Can anyone explain?
It could also be that you are assuming that the drive shafts are turning at the same rate of speed. Is it possible that they are not? This is a serious question as I am unsure if that is possible.
It would appear that with this disparate F/R final drive ratio the front wheels would be simply free-wheeling along, with the rears doing all the (motive force) work.
And maybe it was only my theory until I put the RX on the 4 wheel dynamometer. Then it became quite factual, if the front and rear wheels are not forced to turn at the same rate due to high roadbed traction then the front wheels get the majority of the available engine torque, 90/10 initially and only up to 75/25 if the low traction condition persists.
"Four-wheel drive models: Do not use tires of different brands, sizes and constructions. This may damage the drive system."
"Snow tires should be installed on all wheels." - max speed 75mph.
"Chain Installation. Install the chains on the front tires as tightly as possible. Do not use tire chains on the rear tires." - max speed 30 mph. There is also a large caution section about managing turns correctly with chains, so you will not lose control.
I've always used chains on front wheels only on FWD or AWD vehicles. It just takes good defensive driving and you'll be fine.
Just purchased in December. Was getting 15mpg with combination driving in Michigan weather. Now getting 18mpg with 2,400 mile on odometer. Anxious to see what we get with highway driving.
I'm curious that in all cases Toyota uses the singular "bolt" if they really want you to retorque eight bolts.
Jonas
7423 of 7940 Re: torquing the driveshaft? by mikey00 Dec 21, 2002 (2:51 pm)
It's really no big deal. There are 8 bolts on the driveshaft that Toyota claims should be re-torqued at 54 ft-lbs every 5k under normal driving conditions (not just towing). I did mine twice in the last 30k. There is no driveshaft on fwd. I don't actually do a complete re-torque, that is I do not loosen and tighten to 54 ft-lbs. I just check each of the 8 bolts to make sure they are at at least 54 ft-lbs. I question the need for this service but still do it because it is Toyota recommended, not like the many un-necessary dealer recommended fluid changes.
Do you have VSC/Traction Control on you HL?
Where do you get all this technical info on RX/HL? Do you have the factory shop manuals?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Low range/skillfull...
Lived about two miles back on a gravel then dirt road with lots of uphill/downhill slopes. My judgement was that low range was TOO low, granny grunt style.
Glad your's is a help.
I live in northern NH (we have had deep snow on the ground since mid November)(naturally, the drive has been plowed after every snow event). Yesterday, I left for church with it snowing, but only 1 inch on the drive. When I returned, it was a measured 9 inches deep, and snowing hard. I have a long 300 foot drive, and it is steep. The plow had left the entrance to my drive with a berm of about 14-18 inches. I did not think I could make it w/out getting the snow thrower out and clearing a path. The HL crossed the berm, and moved right up the 9 inches of snow without slipping. I was most impressed.
The AWD is not a true 4x4; it does not have a low range; I would not take it off road, but it sure goes when a FWD will not. Knowing I can get home when the snow is deeper than forecast is very comforting.
Happy HL'ing to all.
Now. I do not have traction control. Just a 2001 unlimited V6, AWD. Nothing fancy.
I do not know that a FWD HL could not have made it, but I know my FWD Acura would not have, and my neighbor's 2x4 pickup could not make it (even with CMU blocks in the bed). wwest has repeatedly spoken against the AWD and cited test to support the point. But admits to having zip experience with the vehicle in real world snow. I have, and without any doubt in my mind, I know it performs.
Up here in the north woods, weather forecasting is very questionable. When my wife leaves home, we never know when an unexpected snow will fall. It is a big comfort to me to know she will be able to get home, and up the driveway. Yesterday, the National Weather Bureau predicted nothing more than a 1" accumulation.
The HL is not a perfect vehicle, and there are features I wish were different. I do not want to continue the AWD debate, but I believe this aspect of the vehicle is better than spoken by the nay sayers, and I thought others might enjoy hearing from someone that drives in winter conditions daily over an extended period of time.
I really and sincerely doubt if the AWD version of the RX300 is a justifiable investment when compared to the FWD RX300 when both have VSC.
The ML AWD system was introduced to the world in 1997 and it's taken until now, next month, for Lexus to bring it to market.
The RX330 (ML's) AWD system is lighter, less expensive to manufacture, and if Lexus is brave enough to make the VSC's AWD firmware reasonably aggressive, might even be more capable than even the ML itself.
Now if the RX330 has the climate control fixed....
Dougweaver - bummer. Are you sure the deductible applies for glass breakage? Sometimes that's treated differently....
In the news, "the Highlander mid-size sport utility vehicle (SUV) posted best-ever February sales of 8,298, an increase of 7.9 percent." link (Yahoo)
Steve, Host
Check and flush the space between the sheet metal and the mud guards.
Shock tower/strut assemblies-and wheel well areas, paying close attention to the inner top lip of each well.
Rocker panels-front and rear. This is an area that is often over looked when washing the HL. Do yourselves a favor..wash it and apply a good polish/wax.
Lower rocker panels-this bottom portion of the rocker panels are, for the most part, sealed via crimp/spot welds, but there are crevices where salt has penetrated.As long as your underneath, give the underside a once over with the hose.
Inner door, bottom-check and flush the drain holes on each door.
Hatch/rear door area.
Finally, check your engine bay. Despite the plastic work on the underside, there was still a fair amount of sand/salt/etc in this area.
Guess I should flip through my policy that came in the mail today :-)
Steve, Host
#1- Heating system is really poor especialy to warm the feet.
#2- The wind noise
#3- Cheap speakers
I know wind noise was an issue with the 01's and Toyota dealers have changed the seals.Has anybody experienced wind noise with the 02's
Apparently, the answer to your question is NO and NO!
NipponDenso, the Toyota/Lexus climate control supplier has some idiot engineers that think passenger comfort means cool and dry airflow even when the radiant cooling quotient is the predominant human comfort factor.
NipponDenso designs these systems to first, always, cool the incoming airflow to as low as 34F and then hopefully reheat it to your comfort level.
oh well...
Steve, Host
Just a follow up question, do you stock tires or are they different from std Toyt supplied Bridgestone Dueler ?
Anyone else pls post your experiences, its far more enjoyable and informative to read real world expereience instead of tech speak.