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Comments
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
By the way - I agree dealers SUCK BIG TIME. The dealer where I purchased my car has a moto that "We are not satisfied until you are satisfied" That is a joke! They could care less. The owner did not even think I deserved a response to my letter - not even one that said NO. The General Manager was really rude to me and insinuated that I am a lier, etc. One thing is for sure I will never purchase another Toyota if I ever get another vehicle!
The recommended tire pressure from the manual and door label is 30 psi cold. Are you sure your dealer didn't raise the tire pressure from 32 to 37 and 34? Sounds like your dealer really does "suck big time!" Why don't you find another? Then again, it just might feel bumpier if you're talking about a smooth road.
I've been trying to figure a way to get the electric door locks to automatically lock for the longest. I'll give the HL rollover test a try. Thanks for the tip. ;-)
(I'm trying to break my economics training by not listing all my assumptions before making a point.)
Seriously, I don't know how the ride could have gotten worse after lowering the tire pressure. It certainly should have helped. Is it possible that the roads you are driving on got worse? I know that sounds like a stupid question, but this winter has been very bad in some areas and there are more cracks and pot holes than ever.
Concrete is more expensive because if not poured on a really solid, well prepared underlayment, it will soon start cracking and once that happens in northern climates ice in the cracks soon makes matters a lot worse.
So, a concrete roadbed, if properly laid, will, for a much longer period, provide a much smoother ride and greater visual distance at night.
But our government officials get much greater kickbacks....eh....political contributions, from the asphalt industry. In the short term they can provide (slightly) less expensive roadbed renovation and pass the difference to the politicians.
After getting into the car to drive home, I realized that would have to have been one hell of a turn to get your elbow up there. Never mind...
Cliffy 1 - As to the dealership - I guess you have heard that one rotten apple in the barrel spoils the rest. In this case the largest Toyotal dealership in the mid-atlantic area and a top rated Toyota dealership is definitely a rotten apple and has tainted my perspective considerably of dealerships in general. I am still trying to resolve the seat comfort issue without success. Their latest idea is for me to trade the vehicle in on a 2004 Sienna at over a $7,000 loss to me - they should think again! If I do trade the Highlander in on another vehicle they certainly will not get the sale, especially since they speakth with forked tongue. For all of you who have had a good relationship with Toyota dealerhips or work for good dealerships congratulations - I certainly wish I had/or will have the same experience. I am currently looking for another dealership to do the warranty service, etc. on the vehicle, so wish me luck. By nature, I am not a complainer, but this has been a major problem for me and one that I think should be addressed properly by the dealership, especially since they took back vehicles for less serious problems and also let customers take the vehicle overnight for an extended test drive - both of which they refused me. To date I have diven under 500 miles in 2 months because of the back pain. I usually do over 500 miles in 2 weeks.
Junepug - I did try the back headrest in the front - they are not interchangeable in my HL, even the service department tried it and found the same problem. If you changed the headrests then you also have a problem with the front headrest - what is the issue and did you let Toyota know by calling the customer service number? Please do so if you have not so that they will know to correct the problem in future vehicles and maybe do a recall on this one. They told me if 100 people complain then they probably would look seriously at doing something about the headrest.
On the 2003 base model with cloth seats, the rear head rest does fit in the slots for the front headrest. The ratchet operation does not work however.
Wouldn't other drivers be blinded by you having (high beam) lights on all the time? Especially if they (other driver) flashes his lights at you to get you to take them off high beam and you hit them both high&high beams... and if you did blind someone with your high beams are you liable for any accident?
Best regards, Philip
If this will blind other drivers, are there any other sugestion? I am driving alot at night and heavy rain condition. Thanks.
I own a White, 2001 V6AWD.
I was thinking of replacing the stock steel rims.
I wanted to stay with the same size and diameter.
225/70/16 - but, the original rims are 16 by 6.5.
Is there any harm in replacing to be a 16 x 7 rim and will the extra .5 inch cuase issue with turing diameter or rubbing / suspension components.
Thanks in advance to all who reply.
Greg
I tried several versions of the PIAA, even one wherein I had to use a relay to support the extra amps.
Nothing compares to HID, NOTHING!
As we get older we lose our color night vision first, HID provides a wider spectrum of light, bringing back some of what we have lost.
HID also provides a much sharper, more definitive, cutoff, allowing more light at a greater distance without blinding oncoming drivers.
You can find the instructions at the following two pages.
http://vmac.org/~weston/teg/9005conv/
http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Upgrade/More_light.htm
However, as long at you're getting new rims, why not upgrade to 17s or 18s? Now THAT would look sharp! : ) Of course, it would require some modifications...
Pictures at CL in the RX photo gallery under wwest.
wwest - where exactly are the pictures. CL ? Thanks.
If you say the spacer work well, then maybe I can go to a 17 x 8 rim.
Let me know and thanks to both in advance.
Greg
I'd recommend just making sure that you get the road chemicals washed off within a reasonable amount of time. There is some protection from the factory and the chemicals used today are not as corrosive as they were in the past (at least that's what the word is in Virginia).
I personally am completely satisfied with the headlights on the Highlander -- they're way brighter than the lights on my previous car, and I've never experienced any visibility issues myself -- isn't that what the high beams are for (assuming there are no other cars ahead that would be blinded)? I'm perplexed by the pre-occupation by a seemingly significant percentage of drivers with HID (high intensity discharge (electric arc-based)) headlights.
The improvement is unbelieveable.
Great looking RX, nice rims and x-terrains.
I will be looking into 17 x 7 rims for my Highlander.
Thanks. Greg
junpug, OUCH! I am sorry, but I did not get the impression that you just tried moving the back headrest to the front seat to see if it made a difference. I took your posting to mean that you did that because you were having a problem also. Please forgive the assumption - I am so desparate that I am grasping at anything that might be a solution or a help (such as someone else with the same problem). Unless you experience the pain that I am in you do not know how desparate I AM - I should not have to pay over $27,000 and be put in this much pain everytime I drive this vehicle. I am driving it, but for less that 40 miles each time - which means that I am unable to go for long trips, etc. By the way, I already tried changing the headrest, but the back one does not work because it cannot be held in place where it would do me any good - all it does is hit me across the upper back. I do appreciate the fact that you tried to offer a suggestion. Thank you for that.
As for the bumpy ride - I took the vehicle in for its first oil change and had the tire pressure checked. They said that each of the tires had a difference pressure - they put 32 psi in each and the ride is much improved - even the backseat passengers remarked on the smoother ride. I guess the dealership's gauge was faulty.
My wife (as a passenger) has always expressed reluctance to use the "map" light in the RX since it has only one bulb that illuminates both the driver's and passenger's side. It has irritated me that Lexus cheapened the product in this manner.
So.
The dome/map light fixture assembly, dome, and separately switched right and left map/reading lamps, from the Ford Aerostar fit nicely in place of the dome light just behind the front seats.
Ford P/Ns
1L3Z-13776-AAB lamp [non-permissible content removed]'y inc bulbs.
F5TZ-13783-A lens
Comes in black only but Rust-Oleum "textured sandstone" spray paint is an almost perfect match for an ivory interior.
Two new mounting holes need to be drilled.
The Aerostar [non-permissible content removed]'y has four mounting holes and some have electrical connection functionality also. The one nearest the driver's seat is used to pick up a circuit grnd (used self tapping sheet metal screw) to the map light switches and the one to the rear and diagonally across from it needs a plastic 10/24 screw to avoid an electrical connection. Two screws seems to work satisfactorily.
There is an OEM two wire connector, one side carrying +12 volts (always "live", you'll need to be careful not to leave map light switches on). The other side is driven by a solid state current sink circuit to switch the dome light on and dim it slowly to off.
You can stop here or:
I used two diodes, a PNP darlington transistor and a resistor so that all three lamps illuminate and extinguish (slowly) simultaneously.
Transister NTE271, Ic=10A Hfe= 1000 Min.
Diodes NTE5801, PRV=100, 3A
Resistor 1K ohm at 2W
Frye's Electronics
Collector to grnd, emitter to dome bulb "low", and diode cathodes. Anodes of diodes to low side of map bulbs. Base connected to OEM current sink source and resistor. Other resistor end connected to +12 volts.
All three bulbs then illuminate with open door and extinguish slowly together. Extra illumination of front seating area at night is quite helpful and map bulbs can still be operated individually with the switches embedded in the assembly.
Do not try to energize all three bulbs from the OEM current sink source. Lighted current draw is only about 3A, 10W/bulb, but the instantaneous current draw for three "COLD" bulbs might be 10 or 15 amps and I do not know what the OEM current sink source capability is.
Now when we realize the GPS/Nav is leading, has led, us astray at night my wife can freely consult a map without interfering with my forward vision.
Thanks
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/cars/msg0122241726983.html?2- - 8789
This board has been very helpful.
I am reporting an intermittent steering vibration when braking at 65-70mph. Brakes recently checked to be OK. Anyone else have the same problem? Any suggestions what might be wrong?
Thanks!