Dodge Dakota 4x4 Problems
I reecently installed some additional driving lights on my 2002 V8 dodge dakota and had to remove my console front trim in order to mount a switch to control the lights. i have removed this front panel numerous times working with my radio, so i am familiar with how i need to disconnect all the electrical wires from the AC unit, the airbag switch, the headlight switch ect. after i mounted my switch i contiued to re-connect all the connectors listed above, including the four wheel drive switch. after re-connecting everything i turned the ignition on and started it up and the "Service 4X4" light came on.
Now i am not able to change from 2wd to 4wd or anything. the LED that usually indicates weither it is in 4wd or 2wd is not on in either position. but with the driving lights on the backlight on the switch itself is ilumnated, but it will not change to 4wd...
Anyone have any ideas???
Now i am not able to change from 2wd to 4wd or anything. the LED that usually indicates weither it is in 4wd or 2wd is not on in either position. but with the driving lights on the backlight on the switch itself is ilumnated, but it will not change to 4wd...
Anyone have any ideas???
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it out of 4-wheel drive without stopping, killing the
engine and waiting several seconds. Some one said it might
be the vacuum actuator on the front differential. Another
guy said it was the vacuum switch on the front differential. I'm still trying to find out if I can fix it
myself. c38clark@hotmail.com
Any ideas?
Thanks for your help!
I'll post the resolution. Thanks again!
They found that the front wheel bearing was on the verge of failing. They told me that it was not considered part of the drive train. In reviewing the warranty, the following is stated:
Front wheel drive specifically states, “front wheel bearings”.
Rear wheel drive states, “drive shaft assemblies”.
Four wheel drive states, “drive shaft assemblies (front and rear)”.
Is not an “assembly”, a complete shaft, along with bearings?
Having both front and rear drive when in a 4x4 mode and a front wheel drive specifically states wheel bearings, then why are the bearings not covered under the warranty?
The dealer stated that the wheel bearing was not covered. I contacted Daimler Chrysler Customer Service and was told that the interpretation of the warranty is up to the dealer. This is like the fox watching the chicken coop.
Has any one had similar experiences? and, is there any way of contacting any one technical within Daimler Chrysler's higher eschelon that has access to the group that wrote the warranty?
Your comments would be appreciated/
Thanks,
GEOBCON
This factory-dealership arrangement often makes the dealerships look like the bad guy. In reality, if DC "approved" replacement of your wheelbearing, then the dealership would GALDLY do it. (it is guaranteed pay for them at that point)
The last time Chrysler had the 70,000 mile warantee...they nearly lost the company. The only reason they offer 100,000 now is because the competetion offers it. The vehicles are not any better or worse than they were before.
DC, GM and Ford all offered 100,000 mile warantees to improve sales and make the bottom-line look better in the short-term. .... this was very shortsighted on their part. Over the next several years as the vehicles get older and start to need repairs... they will ALL be in a bind. Time for them to pay the piper!
At any rate, I had to accept their definition and was able to use a courtesy rntal car and get a senior citizen discount which saved me about $100.00. So much for Daimler Chrysler service.
Merry Christmas.
GEOBCON
Thanks,
geobcon
As I write this, I am looking at my 2000 Factory service manual. There are exploded views of the C/V joints on the driveshafts. There are about 30 other diagrams explaining other parts. (like how to dis-assemble the C/V joints and inspect the balls.)
There is another chaptor describing the "C205F" front axle assembly. This chaptor goes into detail about the guts of the differential.
You could order your very own factory service manual for your 2003 Dakota from any Dodge dealership. (and perhaps even online from Dodge)
I got the factory service manual as part of my "barganing" when I orderd up my truck from the factory. The salesman are eager to 'close a deal' by agreeing to throw in the factory service manual.
I have a factory service manual for every automobile I ever owned. I find them to be very helpful. They describe every screw, wire, electric plug and compoenent in detail. There is a description of how every component works. These books pay for themselves very quickly since I can now diagnose and repair most problems myself.
Thanks for the response. Does your manual show the wheel bearings as part of the front drive shaft assembly? I'm having a bone of contention with Daimler-Chrysler and the dealer regarding my 100,000 mile warranty on the drive train. I had the front wheel bearing replaced and they told me it wasn't covered in the warranty because it wasn't specifically stated other than "the front drive assembly". My 2002 Dakota is a 4x4. The warranty states specifically for a "front wheel drive" that the "wheel bearing" is covered. Not so on a 4x4. It doesn't call for a wheel bearing other than "the front drive assembly". If your manual shows a wheel bearing on the "the front drive assembly", could you give me the chapter and verse? If it does, I'd like to get back to the dealer and recoup some of my costs.
Thanks in advance.
GEOBCON
There is nothing specifically called "the front drive assembly". That is just an arbatrary name that can cover whatever they want (or dont want) to cover.
Dont forget... those 100,000 mile warantees are only offered so they can SELL the vehicles - not to actually cover or protect the buyer. They are purposfully written to be ambiguous about what they cover.
Otherwise your speedometer will be incorrect and your ABS brakes may misbehave.
15 inch = P235/75R15 XL
16 inch = P265/70R16 (8" wide wheel only)
17 inch = P255/55R17 (with R/T package only)
Regards,
Dusty
My 01 dodge dakota began shifting into 4 wheel drive when I go around sharp corners and especially city driving. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the transfer case shift motor and charged me $747 dollars. A week later it was doing it again but by the time I got it back to the dealer it stoped doing it and they said it was fine. I know this problem is going to come back. Years ago I did have the recall done for the transfer switch programming. Any help would be appreciated.
If the wiring is good and you've got a solid electrical ground to the transfer case and the transmission, the TCCM is about the only thing left.
Good luck,
Dusty
I would suggest that you look at the ADJUSTMENT of the 4x4 linkage. It sure sounds as if the xfer-case is not fully going into 4Lo. This is often caused by the linkage between the lever and the xfer-case needing to be adjusted.
I am curious... you say that "Winter is coming, and I'l like to get this fixed ASAP!".... do you *really* use 4lo that often? The "lo" setting on the Dak xfer case is EXTREMELY low. I find that when in "lo", 5th gear on the xmission is about the same a 2nd when in "hi". Cocenquently, I use 4lo about 1 time a winter. (and the winters here in Vermont are serious.)
I live in Eastern Oregon, so winters get pretty bad, and I am out in the mountains a lot. So I do use it fairly often. Although with my canopy on, I'm very pleased with it's performance in snow. I'll take a look at that linkage, and give an update as to how it goes. Thanks.
When I orderd my Dak, I poured thru every option and specifically chose options which would give me the very best snow-traction. In addition to what I mentioned above in the way of powertrain..... I also opted for the "trac-loc" rear end and "tire-n-handling package". (31x10.5R15 tires -- that is 31inch tires!!)
I am impressed that chryslers "trac-loc" limited slip differential with its cone-shaped clutches can easilly make both rear-wheels spin on dry pavement. I have to be careful when the gas-tank is low on fuel because the rear end can easilly slide out from under me in first gear with too much throttle.
With this setup, I have TRUE 3 wheel drive when in 4hi/lo. (Both rear and one front must slip for me to lose traction)
Without "trac-loc" rear-end, I would have 2-wheel drive when locked in 4Hi/lo. (One front and one rear can spin to lose traction)
I would expect that you have the "trac-loc" too.... as I recall it was MANDITORY to get "trac"loc" when the 4.7L was coupled to the 5speed manual. (The ordering-computer automaticly added the "trac-lock" when that combo was selected.)
My rear brakes are still factory with 80K miles on the odometer. (I do take them apart occasionally to clean/adjust)
Check out this photo of the last brakes/rotors which I took off my Dak.
While we are at it... here is photo of my running boards.
My Homemade intake and modified AC system (gets real cold now!)
As for front axle... mine has been troublefree. In fact, in all my years of following Dakotas, I have never EVER heard about any issues with front axle in the 2000+ Dak. (Independant Front Suspension design)
I am curious--- why are you asking about the front axle?
I run RedLine lubes in all gearcases. (front/rear diff., xfer, xmission and powerSteering)
Ron
I realized an immedeate 2-4 MPG increase on the highway. (went from ~18 to ~21MPG) The reason for this increas is 2-fold.
1) Group5 synthetic lube is thinner that dyno-oil so there is less wasted power due to "gear churn".
2)More slippery lube wastes less power due to lowered friction.
The protection that group5 synthetic lubes offer is the very best available. When the pinion-seal on my rear diff blew out and lost most of the fluid, I was in the middle of a 4-hour trip with a sofa in the back running at 65MPH. There was NO DAMAGE AT ALL to the differential gears.... All I had to do was replace the seal and re-fill with RedLine again.
thanks
prs
When I select 4h or 4L on the dash it shifts into gear fine
sometimes with a clunk.
But when I romp on it in 4x4 it makes a clunking sound
like two gears grinding.
Has anyone had this problem and
could someone tell me if it
could be the transfer case shift motor, or the chain?
thanks
You really need to ascertain if it is the xfer case which is not fully enguaging.... or the front wheels.
Thanks All
Steve
The phyisics behind it is that when locked into 4WD, all the wheels are essentually LOCKED TOGETHER. When you try to turn sharply, the OUTSIDE wheels need to spin faster than the INSIDE wheels to keep up... this causes the driveline to "wrap up" and you feel that walking sensation. (as if the front wheels are trying to take steps) There is a HUGE amount of torque built up in the driveline when the wheels are locked together but need to spin at different speeds.... SOMTHING will eventually snap.
That is why the owners manual says to NOT USE 4WD on dry pavement. You are lucky you have not ripped a driveshaft out from under your truck!!
If your "shop" does not understand this phenomen about a 4WD... run away from them fast!
4WD is only really useful in a STRAIGHT LINE and can actually cause you to slide off the road in the snow if you are not prepared for the effects of the wheels being locked together around a corner. Also, NEVER use 4WD above 40 MPH... you can get killed if you do not undersand the physics of a 4WD system at those speeds.
I was able to push my Dakota from about 18MPG to over 21MPG by simply changing all gearcase fluids from dino-oil to synthetic Red Line lubes.
This included changing the following fluids.
*)Front Differential
*)Rear Differential
*)Xfer Case
*)Manual Xmission
*)Power Steering
Since Red Line lubricants are true Polyol Ester synthetic fluids, they are far superiour to most other so-called synthetics. (and also more expensive due to the cost of Polyol Ester basestock)
There are several reasons for the increase of MPG.... including
1)Less Friction
2)Less gear-churn reduces wasted power (thinner oil still provides better protection!)
A bonus is that I will NEVER EVER have to change these fluids again because of the superiour protection provided by the Red Line lubricants.
The ability of the RedLine differential lube to protect WITHOUT fluid saved my gears. All I did was install new seal and refill with RedLine Gear Oil. If this leak had occoured while running dino-lube, I may not have been so lucky.
BTW: The RedLine Gear Oil CONTAINS the special additive for Limited Slip Differential (LSD). There is no need to add anything but the RedLine.
I'm supposed to leave for college 5 hours away on Monday afternoon. I highly doubt this is gonna be a quick fix, especially in a small town. Any ideas as to exactly what the problem is, or ways to temporarily fix it? Also, how necessary is that plastic piece behind the bumper? Should I have it replaced or just pulled the rest of the way off?
Also, you may wish to scrutinenize for any other damage underneath the vehicle.
Cheers,