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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Engine and Underhood Problems



  • We recently did a motor swap on a 97 GMC Sonoma 2.2L 4cyl. In the process we got the firing order confused. We are trying to find the firing order for the vehicle... does anyone have any suggestions? We were also told that it is possible that number one is closer to the firewall can anyone shine some light? :sick:
  • Firing order is 1,3,4,2 number 1 is in the front of the engine. Your coil pack is numbered 4,1,3,2 or 2,3,1,4 depending how you look at it. Number 2 on your coil pack is the post closest to the engine block.

    Engine 4 3 2 1 front
    Coil pack . 2
  • kunesjskunesjs Posts: 1
    Hey did you get this resolved? I have the same issue!!! Do you have any advice?
  • dontom13dontom13 Posts: 3
    i had problems with my heater and 4 wheel drive, i did't have any problem with loss of power, but if you have problem with your heater or 4 wheel drive i can probably help let me know
  • drizztdrizzt Posts: 1
    I just swapped a 4.3l from a 2000 S10 to a 1996 S10, it runs but has a miss and low power. Do I need to swap anything like control modules and what not over with the engine?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Well I think the PCM software would be different.
  • I bought my 2000 chevy s10 4.3 4x4 a year ago with 49000 miles. It ran like a dream until about a month ago. I now have 58000 miles and recently have been experiencing a drop in power when accelerating. In March I had a magnaflow muffler installed and it increased the juice, but now im losing that juice. It will speed up gradually until about 3rd gear, then it loses power at about 2500 or 3000 rpms at 50mph and needs to kick into passing gear to make it to 60mph. Could this be an engine problem or tranny?
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Have your catalytic converter checked for plugging.
  • zengetsizengetsi Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    Hello Forum. i have a problem thats concerning me. when i drive my truck to work in the morning (its usually a 30 minute drive to and from) after 15 mins of driving i stop at a red light and when it turns green i give it some gas its seem like the gas doesnt go to the injector and starts to make a "boom boom boom" sound.. so i put the car in neutral and turn off then on the car and its works. same thing happens coming home from work. does anyone have a solution? thank you in advance.

    Friends tell me to check the gas filter. could that be the problem?
  • troyce2troyce2 Posts: 2
    I have a 98 with a 2.2L bottom end rebuild and new head installed. I bought the truck not running guy thought it had bad set of rings. I find when i took it apart that had a hole in the head next to valve guide seat. New coils,plugs,wires. It still has misfire on #3 I have moved the injector on #3 to #1 no change. replaced all o-rings on injectors. Fuel pressure is where it should be did compression check had 175 LBS on all four cylinders. Did leak down compression check and they where 12% to 14% on all cylinders. Moved coils around and had no change. I have checked continuity on all injector wire back to pcm. checked voltage to module to coils have 12 volts. I have pressure checked intake manifold to 30 psi. Still can not find the problem. PLEASE HELP!!!! I'm running out of ideas.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Put a noid light on #3 and see if the PCM is commanding the injector on.
  • troyce2troyce2 Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    I did that and it was flashing. On a scanner that a friend has he can tell the injector is firing a 4.3 milliseconds the same as the rest.
  • 00mickx00mickx Posts: 3
    My guess is the TPS (throttle position sensor) - good luck!!!
  • mode1mode1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 S-10 4cyl. and had the same problem especially when it rained and was damp out.... it was very frustrating. It went on for several months. Finally, I found a mechanic who knew what it was. Coils! Replaced both of them had NO problems since!
    Six cylinders have 3 coils
  • ricky16ricky16 Posts: 10
    i have a 96 s10 2.2 5 speed stop at a stop sign and went to take off and would not rev up over 2 grand it idles good and starts good but just will not rev up i have checked every thing i know of all sensors converter. put on scanner all it showed was bad map sensor put 1 on no change could use some help from someone please. checked compression 110 on every cylinder checked fire it is good if you might be some help i would like to hear from you help please !!!!!!!!!!!
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    Did you change fuel filter?
  • ricky16ricky16 Posts: 10
    yes changed filter checked fuel pressure 65 pounds ran compression check it was good but thanks for the help if you might know any thing let me know i am at wits end
  • I just bought an 82 S10, 2.8 V6, no idea how many miles on it since the odometer doesn't work. There were some rattling noises when I bought it, the owner said it was the exhaust manifold, needed a new gasket. Well, the noise has gotten worse, and I'm not sure it's the exhaust. The noise is a steady, LOUD, metal clacking noise, doesn't seem to change in intensity or speed regardless of whether I'm idling or accelerating. It seems to be coming from driver's side lower engine. I have almost no mechanical experience or knowledge, and I realize I probably bought a major headache, but does anyone have any ideas?
  • Have you gotten under the truck and looked or felt around for something loose?
  • I had somebody tell me it sounded like loose torque converter bolts, and that it was easy to tighten them. I crawled around under there looking for what he described, but no luck. There is some sort of brace, looks like it goes from the transmission housing to the bottom of the engine or suspension, that has the bolt missing on the transmission end, but the noise isn't coming from there. I have a Chilton's manual on the way, hopefully I'll figure it out. From what I've read here and elsewhere, could be lifter noise, but I'm wondering just how loud lifter noise is, cuz this is LOUD. If it is, I've read that it could be a bad oil pump.
  • The problem i see with loose bolts or lifters is that you said the noise didn't speed up with engine rpm. If it was either one of those the clanging would get faster or slower with engine rpm's. If it remains constant i would think it's something outside of the motor? Crawl underneath with the engine running and see if you can pinpoint the source of the noise. (Set the emergency brake, block the wheels, ....etc... to be safe)
  • eronieroni Posts: 9
    I would like to know, (from a kind person who has the service manual) the correct torque for the following bolts in a 2.2 liter VIN 4 GM engine of 1994, used in the GMC Sonoma (and other models):
    a) Flex plate (flywheel) to crank shaft bolts.
    b) Flex plate to torque converter bolts
    c) Push rods bearing bolts.
    d) Crank shaft bearing bolts.
    e) Drive shaft rear U joint bolts/nuts.
    f) Bell housing bolts.
    g) Oil pump bolts.
    h) Oil pan bolts.
    Thanks a lot, in advance, for the help.
  • s10fan_kys10fan_ky Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    Does anyone have a vacuum diagram for a 2001 Chevy S-10 Crew Cab 4x4 4.3 V6 that they could send me? It is not in the manual that Autozone has, nor can I find it online. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have replaced batt,distrib,alt,plugs,wires heads gaskets cad convert and muffler and now have a problem that stumps everyone..on hot day with air on going uphill it loses power and rpms go up and down. Once over hill she runs ok and if I turn air off before hill it doesn't do it at all
  • My 2002 Sonoma has the same problem. Giakamo, did you get yours fixed? What was wrong? Anyone with any other ideas, please respond!!!
  • Did you find the answer to your problem mikeythekat? I have the same problem.
  • gmc4x4s15gmc4x4s15 Posts: 2
    edited November 2010
    okay just bought a 1987 s-15 with a 2.8 liter v6 when i try and start it after its been sitting and cooled down it takes forever to get it to fire and then when it does fire i have to keep pumping the gas for it to idle and even then it runs really rough and tends to die. after it warms up it runs good usually but sometimes will die on me.......replaced the gas tank, sending unit, all new fuel lines return and sending, new filter,new tps, new map sensor, and a new air filter. im pretty knowledgeable when it comes to motors but im stumped help is much needed
  • okay today was different. i read on a similar post to turn the key on and hold the gas petal to the floor. so i did this and it fired immediately still had to do it a couple times but it didn't take as long to get it running this time. any other ideas will help
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