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Comments
I just recently noticed a low speed (30 or less mph) noise when coasting or braking to a stop.
The noise is coming from the right rear (Had a brave passenger lean out and listen).
I replaced the brakes and rotors nearly 1 year ago. I also completely removed the parking brake shoes and adjusters from both sides to see if that was the source of the noise. Since that didn't do it, I took both rear rotors off and inspected the backing plates to make sure they were not making contact with the rotor. Then I swapped the rear rotors and the noise was still on the right side.
I put the vehicle on a 2 post lift, placed it in gear, and with a rag in hand, applied drag to the right rear by pressing on the inside sidewall. I was able to recreate the noise. So, I replaced the right rear wheel bearing and seal. I noticed the C-Clip was wearing more toward the outer diameter on the side that faced the side gear, so I put it back in facing the other way to start fresh and reduce lateral movement of the axle.
The noise is still there and I am getting desperate.
Has anybody else had experience with this elusive noise?
Thanks in advance.
Use this link to find a hunter near you.
Hunter balancer
Getting Chevrolet to honor the new vehicle warranty that I paid for in the price of the truck is like pulling teeth.
I have a problem that I cannot get fixed. I have had the vehicle to the dealer 3 times and they cannot find the problem. Here are the symptoms.
When I apply the brakes, the truck starts bouncing in the front end. I have replaced the rotors and brake pads and the ball joints are supposedly good. Had them checked out the last time in, and I was told they are ok. I have bought new upper and lower to replace the old ones, but was told it would be a waste of money.
So I guess my question is, should I go ahead and have them replaced anyways, and also have the steering link replaced along with the front end bushings?? Anyone ever come across this problem??? The truck has 190K miles on it and the ball joints are the originals, but I do grease them, along with the rest of the lube points, with every oil change.
Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004B
Date: January 05, 2005
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke)
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop.
Cause
A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition.
Diagnostic Tips
There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include:
^ Symptoms - Propeller Shaft
^ Knock or Clunk Noise
^ Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580)
^ Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin # 02-04-17-001
^ Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin # 01-07-30-042
^ Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin # 03-07-30-028
Correction
Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below.
Follow the service procedure below.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection.
Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint.
3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange.
4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange.
5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case.
Note: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal.
6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press.
Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint.
7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers.
8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring.
9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket.
10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear.
11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke.
12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke.
13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint.
14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring.
15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections.
16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating.
17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information.
18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint.
19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom.
20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup.
21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear.
22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear.
23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups.
24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups.
Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup.
25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup.
26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove.
27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place.
28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer.
29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove.
30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case.
31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft.
32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts.
Tighten
Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N.m (19 lb ft).
33. Lower the vehicle
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
That has been a common problem caused by the bug deflector. Buy some window sealant from Checkers and reseal the windshield.
-2 or 4wd?
-When did this start?
-Some of the dealerships have a vibration tracking device. Costs about $2500 so not all of them have it. Has this been used at any of the 5 dealerships?
2 wd.
Problem started several months ago and has gotton progressively worse.
Yes, has been checked on 2 different machines-nothing found.
Hunter GSP 9700
Most harmonic vibrations start at around 50-55 mph. The fact that yours start at 40 is unusual. The only thing that happens at that mph is the torque converter locks up at 39 mph and driving at that speed had generated some amount of complaints as the engine tends to lug which might be associated with a type of vibration. Not sure if this would be the case as you've had the truck for awhile and would've noticed this sooner if it was a problem.
Was anything replaced on the truck prior to this happening?
Had it 12 months bought new 5.3L auto. Been in shop 8 times for vibration and noise problems at 1500 and 2000 rpm, at 1500 rpm I shift down so I just stay in 8 cyl just to avoid noise.
Got the runaround at first then they handed me a bulletin #06-06-05-001B that states vibration and noise is normal when engine is in 4 cylinder . I belive thats their new way of repairing problems just write up a bulletin. I was also in for a vibration at 60 mph (noticed mirrors shaking), they replaced tires seems to have worked. Been a Chevy man since first truck in 87 very dissapointed on this one.
I read on-line that changin the stock spark plug wire with a Taylor 8 or 10mm wire will help, and at the dealer they told me that if I do that I will void my waranty.
Has anybody else experienced this problem, or do you know how to fix it?
Thanks.
As far as the dealer voiding warranty...who did you talk to at the dealership? And would they put that denial in writing? I seriously doubt it. Plugs and wires are consumable items and are covered under the Moss Magnuson Act which prohibits the manufacturer from forcing you to use their products by voiding your warranty.
Since it seems to be an idle problem, you might also want to check/clean your idle air controller.
Let me know if you hear anything else or if you change you spark plug wire set. Thanks.
I'm from Quebec Canada, and have a mix of steering/vibration/wheel problems with 2005 sierra 4x4.
have been hearing clunky sound from left front wheel and rough ride since 20,000miles
Dealer couldn't or wouldn't identify the problem.
Then had the lube job done, then some sort of column repair and still not up to par.
Then went to an independent shop where they found that the bushing for the left side torsion bar was totally finished. Last night started to get a serious grinding noise from the same area, perhaps a bearing or CV joint, but I suspect it is all related. Some serious flaws going on here.
Has anyone else checked /and or had torsion bar problems?
Also, limited slip doesn't always work
Frustrated and pissed off
Same truck (2003 4X4), same problem...Has anyone found a solution to this mysterious noise?