Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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Classic? Collectible? Special Interest? Just Old?
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Comments
If you buy it, just plan to use it and enjoy it. I don't see it having an collector car value now or in the future. Nothing wrong with buying what you like, that's important!
i have 2 1970 saab cars ( both model 96)for sale.one runs great the other is a parts car.i would like to sell both.
dave
Prices for older cars are dictated by supply and demand, not rarity, so that's why the big engines are worth so much more. That's what people want.
The price asked for the Swinger seems fair enough. I'd guess all fixed up like new you'd have a potential value of around $3,000, but not all that many buyers at that price.
I could see buying a relatively mint-condition, relatively competant, relatively unpretentious little beast myself, rather than a lot of relatively special, historically significant cars that never ran right and had evil handling even when they were new.
For example, I'd rather have a slant-6 Swinger than its contemporary, a BMW 320i.
To remove it or restore it will add to the price of a car that really needs to remain cheap in order to remain quaint and charming. And restoring a vinyl top is like restoring a polyester suit.
And of course the buyer would have to be content with 'quaint' and 'charming'. If the buyer is looking for 'classic' or something, this is the wrong car.
Please Can You Help,
Kristina
Thanks for any help,
Sean
No telling really how many are left...they also made them for a few years, so all in all, there are probably a fair number of them around, at least enough to satisfy demand for them at this time.
Thanks,
Kristina/co host Our Turn
Let's see what's in the new June 2000 Hemmings MOtor News....(flip, flip)...looks like the 64-67s are going for about $1,000 solid but unrestored, around $3,500 needed light cosmetics and around $6,000 for a fully restored one.
SO looks like you'd find a running decent builder for around $1,000-1,500. But I would avoid a rusty car under any circumstances, unless the rust is merely surface (paint worn off). Rust, as you know I'm sure, is like an iceberg...you only see the tip of it.
Nice thing about older bugs is their simplicity and parts availability, as I mentioned. You can order an entire rebuilt engine delivered to your house for probably no more than $700. Try THAT with a Mercedes Benz (more like $7,000).
Kristina/co host Our Turn
The /71 Skylark is a durable car, but you'd be old and gray before it would be worth any more than it is now, and even then the rise in value would only be inflationary adjustments. Drive it and use it up if you'd like, but don't restore it or "save" it. As Dennis says, it was a very common car and since values are determined by supply and demand, there are many more of them out there than people want to collect.
Michael Bruce Associates
PO Box 396
Powell, Ohio 43065
For pricing info, you can check in here when you've found something that you can describe in detail to us.
These earlier Camaros are pretty simple and reliable cars. What you need to watch out for is cars that have been modified or faked. I'd say the best buy would be a 69 with the 350 V8 and automatic. It's a good performer and has a rugged drivetrain.
good luck in your search,
Shifty
I recommended the 350 because you get almost the same performance as the big block for a lot less money...so that's what I was thinking.
My family has a 1940 Cadillac, 40-60 Special, 4-door, black with 14,000+ miles, that supposedly was used in one of the "Godfather" movies. I'm trying to identify the best method for determining its value. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
It's for sale, too at this URL:
http://www.cars-on-line.com/65marlin2481.html
It is a unique looking car, not what most think of as beautiful, but definitely distinctive in its own 1960s way. You should be able to find a very nice one for not a lot of money, so shop a lot and bargain hard for a deal.
it has a 350 sb chevy, a 2in body lift, orig rear end, and 4wheel drive, new int, new paint comp,yellow, it is in very good shape.
I paid 1,000$ for it before it had been rebuilt.
was that to much?
I purchased this car new and drove it for a couple of years. It's been in storage for several years now.
It has 17,000 miles on it, has never seen snow and salt, and has no rust. Between storage fees and depreciation, it currently would be a financial disaster to sell. How old must a car be before it's considered a classic car and could this car attain that classification, or value to a collector, and worth if I keep it? (What
would it be worth?) Otherwise, what's my best strategy for disposing it at this time?
This being the case, you need to sell as soon as possible. Given the low miles, you might try an E-Bay auction, which will cost you about $50...you might get (I've seen this) people paying over blue book because of the low miles. I think this would be your best bet.
joetro@pacbell.net
mr_shiftright@edmunds.com
My books show the J code in 1964 corresponds to a 394cid engine with 10:25 compression and 330 HP...if it were a 345HP it would have an S suffix, and if it were export it would have an E suffix.
So it's probably a stock engine although we have no way of knowing if it's the original stock engine that went in the car in 1964. In this type of car (commercial) that wouldn't be very important anyway.
As for pricing, the commercial vehicle market is a small niche and is a bit tricky to peg accurately, but as a general rule I'd say they follow the pricing of the 4-door cars with perhaps a small premium over that for special equipment...but an ambulance or hearse usually won't pull the same money as a two door hardtop or convertible.
Thanks!
www.hometown.aol.com/dpage35925
Last of all, don't expect these cars to go up in value unless it is a convertible.
Shifty your host
1) I’m not sure exactly what year it is, so is there any ‘easy’ way to identify this? The present owner is not really an enthusiast and knows very little about the car. He only bought the car as an advert for his business.
2)Are there any known weak areas of the car, either mechanically or bodywork wise that I should be aware of?
3)And what was the earliest model year, which could run on lead free fuel. Leaded fuel is no longer available over here in the UK and replacement fuels are very expensive (over $7 per gallon) so this has to be taken into consideration
I know that the mid seventies Cadillac’s havn’t got the street cred that 50’s and 60’s models bring, however I’m not buying the car with the intention of making a profit somewhere down the line, I just think it would make a nice weekend cruiser. Not to mention this is a lot of car for the money, and here in the UK it’s different enough at least to have some street cred.
As most of my experience with American cars has been limited mainly to Fords, Lincolns and Chrysler’s any advise would be most appreciated.