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Ford Ranger Lighting and Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    You didn't get one/both cables down tight. If one is just 'cocked' it may not be making enough contact to transmit enough power.

    Or, one/both of your cable have corrosion inside the insulation. Moving them around to change the battery made the final break.
  • kingvjackkingvjack Member Posts: 2
  • wesb3000wesb3000 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 94 ranger 2.3l 4cyl manual transmission that i cant get to start.i'm not getting any spark at both of my coil packs.i've replaced one of them recently.i've also replaced the crankshaft sensor,the ignition control module,timing belt,and the computer.my battery is brand new.ihave checked the relays and they are good.the wiring harness has no damage to it that the wires maybe cut.any suggestions
  • tiresmantiresman Member Posts: 2
  • tiresmantiresman Member Posts: 2
    where are the relay for activate signal to left or right it is ford ranger 89 2.9 liter automatic and can u show me the image if possible thanks
  • shepdog1shepdog1 Member Posts: 2
  • shepdog1shepdog1 Member Posts: 2
    I am the owner of 96 Ford Ranger with approximatley 150,000 miles on it. It is four cylinder with an AT. A couple of months ago the OD light started flashing while running approxmately 55 MPH and the odometer stopped working at the same time and the trip mileage stopped working. I pulled over, cut the truck off and the light reset .A few miles later the OD light came back on and eventually the check engine light came on. My truck is now in the shop again for the third time. The first time the trasmission computer was replaced and the second time the celonoid switch was replaced with no success. I have had no problems with the speedometer. I believe the OD light flashing is related to the odometer breaking at the same time but my mechanic has wasted $600.00 fixing false check engine codes. Any suggestin would be very much appreciated.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Hey all,

    Recently our 1999 Ranger XLT 4 WD with 133,000 km was parked unattended and within sight (200ft away). Our keys and keyless entry controls were on a picnic table.

    Without warning the lights started to flash and the horn sounded as if someone had activated the panic alarm.

    This has now happened another time.

    Is this a sign of bad things (electrical) to come? Any insight is very much appreciated.
  • jhelsleyjhelsley Member Posts: 2
    I have a '93 3.0L Ford Ranger. Lately my volt gauge has been bouncing around and my headlights, dash lights and dome light constantly pulsate. I have checked to see if all wires to and from the starter and alternator are tight, and found nothing unusual. Does anybody have any ideas??
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Bad alternator?

    Parts house will check this for free.
  • jhelsleyjhelsley Member Posts: 2
    i ran a volt meter to the alternator and im getting a good reading... i guess that wouldnt totally rule that out. the strangest part is that occasionally it will straighten out but then for no apparent reason it will start bouncing around.
  • roadie409roadie409 Member Posts: 4
    Check the recent Ford recall concerning cruise control wiring harness. Recall #05S28
  • straifstraif Member Posts: 2
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    One year old truck.

    Make your life easier.

    If the milage is 36,000 miles or less, take it to a dealer for a free repair.
  • cwilkinscwilkins Member Posts: 2
    I have a 87 ford ranger 2.9 engine with 5 speed. After fuel relay clicks on it will not click off. Fuel pump runs all the time engine won't start...if starts floods out. I've changed relays, cleaned and changed battery cables. Gets plenty of fuel, fuel pressure 40 lbs and holds, when relay switch by passed, 9 round wire on relay won't click off after 5 seconds fuel pump keeps running. Changed relay twice HELP
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Not really sure about this, but I think there is a fuel pressure regulator in the fuel rail line - this is what cycles the relay on and off. Sounds like this regulator is bad.
  • bilzbobagginsbilzbobaggins Member Posts: 1
    87 Ranger 2.3 no spark...was driving and died at 40...spins over fine...timing belt good...distributer spins...replaced coil wires button and cap....still nothing....help me please

    thanks

    and it is getting fuel
  • esmithesmith Member Posts: 13
    I have a 98 Ranger that the fuel gauge always reads full. I pulled the bed back enough to gain access to the sending unit and wiring harness. The sending unit as well as the connector at the harness next to the unit, has no voltage with the key on. I cannot find anywhere in a manual that shows how the fuel gauge and sending unit are wired, therefore no troubleshooting tips. Does anyone have a starting point? Thank you
  • num18num18 Member Posts: 3
    Hi - I have a 97 Ranger with the factory-installed fog lights in the bumper. I replaced the fog lights with OEM parts and they worked fine. Soon after, they stopped working and the green light on the fog light switch also stopped working. In talking to some folks they feel that even if the fog lights were the issue, the green fog light switch would still work, so the issue must be electrical.

    I have replaced the fog light switch but that did not solve the issue. I have verified that no power is getting to the lights by testing it at the connection point of the fog light. I am looking for suggestions on what else could be the issue. Thank you!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Somewhere there is a relay in this circuit. You are not going to have all the power for two fog lights going thru the switch that turns them on and off. The switch is turning a relay on and off, which then puts power to the lights.

    Find this relay and test there. The relay may be bad, wiring bad back to the switch, or power line from the relay to the lights.

    Ground ok on the lights?
  • num18num18 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks! Even though I had checked the related fuse in the truck, I did not know there were more fuses in the engine area with the relays. The fuse for the fog lights was blown but unfortunately the replacement fuse breaks immediately after attempting to turn on the fog lights. I also swapped the relay - there are four of the same and I swapped them all with each other and that did not make a difference. My next test is to disconnect the fog lights and see if the fuse breaks without them connected. Any additional thoughts or tips would be appreciated. Thanks again!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, with a fuse blowing, you have a short to ground.

    Since it does not blow until you turn the lights on, the first place to look would be at the lights back toward the relay. When the relay powers up the light circuit, it goes to ground and blows.

    The short might be back toward the switch, this part might also be protected by the same fuse as the lights. Usually don't work like this though, because the lights probably pull 10amp or so, while the switch should be protected with a 5amp or less fuse.

    Also look around the housing of the light itself, the bulbs also. Corrosion here could be grounding out the bulb
  • roadhawgjrroadhawgjr Member Posts: 1
    I own a 94 Ranger it was wrecked but ran i picked up another 94 from a guy hauling that was pulling one across the scales at a scrape yard he said the motor was blown and didn't fill like fixing it he sold the trans out of it so i put my motor and trans in it but it wont fire I've replaced the entire wiring harness from the dash to under the hood swapped computers everything under the hood came out of my running truck i changed the bump switch and it fired till i changed the fuel tank that he knocked a hole in to drain the gas the ignition module is out of my running truck and I'm at my wits end can anyone help me :sick: :confuse:
  • num18num18 Member Posts: 3
    Bolivar - thank you very much for your help! I was able to find that the passenger side light was the culprit. Even though I did not find any corrosion when I took the light apart, it did begin working after reassembly. I did clean the male prongs of the connection just to be safe (even though I did not see anything obvious), so maybe it was there. Regardless, your input definitely lead me to the solution and I couldn't be happier. Thank you again!
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, my little heart is just going pitty-pat.

    For 95%+ of my postings, there is never any feedback. People mostly just vanish, with me never knowing if they got their Ranger running, or just torched it and collected the insurance.

    Even if someone came back and told me I was a dumb$$$, and such-and-such was the real problem - this would be very useful to me and everyone else reading the forums.

    Especially for the 'common' problems. I've seen several problems come in here multiple times, but I don't know what to recommend to people. Especially 4-wheel drive ones. It would be so nice for people to post back here 'Remember my such-and-such problem with the so-and-so symptoms, well I replaced the thingamabob and fixed it right up!
  • rnocerarnocera Member Posts: 1
    I just scored a 1993 Ford Ranger 4x4, 5-speed, extra cab for a measley $500. It needed/needs very little work ie: steering column (got one), cap (got one for $50), rear spring hangers (getting those installed next week). However, what I really want are the fog lights. There are holes in the plastic under bumper specifically designed for lights. Where can I get these lights without going to expensive dealer? Also, when I got the steering column from the local junk yard I was told that the 93 Ranger with tilt column was rare. Is this true? I need the cover for the column as well. Can anyone help me?
  • toolshelltoolshell Member Posts: 1
    Hey guys. I need some expert advice. I have a 96 Ranger 4.0L 4x4 in which the speedometer stopped working tonight. I was driving down the freeway with the cruise on, glanced down at the speedometer one second and it was working fine, then next second it was sitting at zero. The trip meter and odometer aren't working either. The cruise still works, and everything else on the cluster works. I stopped to visit some friends and when I started driving the truck the speedo worked again for about 30 miles then stopped.
    I have a feeling it is just in the gauge cluster... and I just might have to replace it...
    anyone have some ideas?

    Thanks
  • johnnym564johnnym564 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 88 ranger 4 x 4 .It has been running perfect. I turned the wipers on and everything died.wont turn over no radio nothing but headlights and door buzzer work. I checked fuses and reset safety switch, which didnt kick out anyway. Does anyone know what could have happended.
  • johnnym564johnnym564 Member Posts: 3
    tracked a corroded wire inside left fender cut all that stuff off.back on the road thanks
  • radioflyrradioflyr Member Posts: 1
    PCORVEY, Wednesday my son's 91 Ranger ignition locked up the same way. Unfortunatly the parts guy at NAPA told him to drill out the ignition key cylinder, BIG MISTAKE! now I am preparing to see what I can do to get it the mess out. Did you get a chance to replace yours? any suggested starting point? Thanks
    RADIOFLYR ;)
  • singstreamsingstream Member Posts: 3
    I have several electrical problems:

    1. My 99 Ranger used to give me an audible warning when I left my headlights on after turning the engine off. (I've already drained the battery once.)

    2. The dome light does not turn on when I open the driver's side door, but will turn on when the passenger side door is open.

    3. I turned off the passenger air bag when my niece was riding in my truck. Now I cannot get it to turn back on.

    These problems did not occur at the same time, but have accumulated over several years.

    Suggestions on how to fix these?
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Number 1 and 2 may be related. The 'door open' switch is on the lock mechanism (it is not a 'push button' on the door frame) inside the door panel. You will have to remove the door panel to get to this switch. It is on the linkage near the outside door handle. Replace the switch or you might be able toclean it with WD40 or electrical spray cleaner.

    If you get this working, this door open switch may trigger the headlights on warning 'dinging'. I'm not sure of this, but maybe....

    No idea about 3. Maybe it is just the switch, which should not be much to replace.
  • singstreamsingstream Member Posts: 3
    I tried to pull the panel off, but the screw keeping the manual window opener has a screw with a star shaped screw head slot. Do I need to go to the dealer for a special tool? I was able to see the switch you mentioned,
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Dealer, no. This is a Torx head screw. Go anywhere and buy you a set of Torx Head screwdrivers in various sizes.
  • fotd1fotd1 Member Posts: 2
    Love this old truck, but now it's cold and now doesn't always start. Plenty of fuel pressure; spark and injectors fire intermittently when cranking. PCM checks out in another vehicle. Sounds either like a bad sensor or wiring/ground issue. Any clues where to look?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    You may want to read through the Ford Ranger Starting Problems discussion to see if someone had the same problem and resolved it.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • jima109jima109 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 ranger with 172k miles. recently my wipers have been coming on for reason that I can tell. they usually come on at high speed, the go to slow speed, and sometimes to intermitten. sometimes I can make them go off by turning the switch on and off, but that doesn't always work. lately I just pull the relay out and put it in the glove box. I've replaced the wiper motor, the multi function switch and the relay but the problem is only getting worse. what's left? anyone else have this problem and, especially a solution?
  • vasolinivasolini Member Posts: 3
    My fuel gauge stopped working. I have a full tank and it's reading "E"! All other gauges and lights in the dash are working. Is there a seperate fuse for the gas gauge? Or maybe the sending unit is bad?? Does anyone have a schematic that shows the fuel gauge? Any suggestions are welcome.
    (1994 4cyl. Splash regular cab)
    Thanks,
    Mark
  • laynrbrlaynrbr Member Posts: 6
    Hey everyone! I've just brought my ranger out of a five year retirement for the sake of fuel mileage. It ran when I parked it but now I have no power to the fuel pump in the tank. My Chiltons manual shows a fuel pump relay but I can't seem to trace it down. Is the relay in the pump itself? All fuses are good and I can't find any bad wires. Does anyone have an idea on where to look for the problem? I'm out of ideas!

    Thanks!
    Laynrbr
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    The relays are usually beside or inside the fuse box under the hood. There may be 2 or 3 of these, many times they are identical. Fuel pump, power windows, etc. I would first pull all of them and clean the contacts. Then if still dead, start switching them around. If the fuel pump starts, you still don't know which one is bad, but you do know one is bad and you need to buy a new one.
  • laynrbrlaynrbr Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the information bolivar! I'll check it out.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    On occassion my 99 Ranger XLT 4L headlights begin to flicker on startup and at idle. When I turn on the headlamps the flickering stops.

    Any ideas?
  • kolijakolija Member Posts: 1
    1992 ford ranger 2.3. takes alot of cranking to start, but when it starts it runs great. check engine light comes on after starting and tach is not reading accurate. Any body else ever have the same problem?
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    Hey all,
    Today my running lights stopped working, I have low and high beams. For a day or two prior to them stop working, the running lights would flicker on vehicle start-up.

    Is this a fuse?

    Thks in advance,

    Dave
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    With your other message, a wild guess would be a bad headlight switch???

    Or bad multi-switch. This is the the switch on turn signal stalk. I can be used to dim your headlights, right?
  • juliea777juliea777 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 bought in the summer of 2004. Every year when it gets below around 40 in temp the voltage guage wont go over about a quarter for 10min or maybe 10 miles then it jumps to normal about half way up the guage. Had the ford house look at it, they replace alternator, later the batter all in the first year. The problem persists. This year Im driving over a hour to and from work. One day it didnt kick up and i tried to get it home knowing I was running the batter down. Got it home, replaced the alternator. Battery was still good. Problem still remained. Replaced two relays. Problem still remains. Mechanic friend bypassed all wiring from alternator to battery with additional wire. Engaged alternator immediately. Is there another relay? Could it be the wiring? I do have some internal electrical problems also like dome light staying on. Cd player and its ghost. Could it be the brain? HELP,,,IM SICK OF THIS TRUCK
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    I took to checking and replacing the relay switch (main control box under hood) for the washer pump and its is now working fine. Weird thing, before I touched the old relay I started the truck up and the running lights were working.

    Now I am confused.
  • buster15buster15 Member Posts: 38
    The running lights are still flickering, when I turn on the headlights no flickering is observed and all lights (fog, high, low beams) work.

    Any suggestions?
  • esmithesmith Member Posts: 13
    Are you still having the fuel gauge problem as of this date?
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