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Dodge Dakota Transmission Problems

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  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Nothing specific, but if it's any consolation, my 2005 does a similar thing. It only does it on occasion when the truck is first started up and driving out of our court (maybe 100 yards). After that it's fine. Has done this from day 1.
  • jamoka3jamoka3 Member Posts: 9
    I got the Haynes manule yesterday and read through it and it showed there were several resons for it to do this... the TV cable miss aligned, trans. filter/ fluid conditions, and the adjustments of the bands. Well since I need to drop the trans pan to adjust the bands screws by specifications of the book i can change out the fluid and filter then also... Or should i just take it to the dealer?
    I just got this truck about a month ago maybe put 400 miles on it tops!
    I got a 3 month 4500 mile C.A.R.S. warranty from the used car dealer with the purchase of my truck, but im not sure how the cars warranty works... any suggestions?
  • litfoot67litfoot67 Member Posts: 6
    Hooked up a code reader,got the code P0753 D1 shift solenoid A Electrical generic1/1. Any ideas :sick:
  • litfoot67litfoot67 Member Posts: 6
    I realize this post is from 06 but thought it would be worth a shot. Do you still have the online transmission manual available? I have a 97 dak that is driving me nuts.
  • keith47keith47 Member Posts: 1
    I was just reading up on this issue for my own reasons and, depending on your transmission, the TV cable to the transmission could be out of adjustment. Apparently if there is too much slack, the truck will shift late and hard, if it is too tight, it will shift early and my slip. It was fairly easy to adjust and the procedure is in a Haines manual. It's worth a try before replacing the tranny.
  • litfoot67litfoot67 Member Posts: 6
    OK here is the total story. My brother in law bought the truck new in 97 and drove it until 2007. He then gave it to his dad/younger brother. He said it didnt shift right then. About 3 months ago I acquired it after it sat for about a year with a blown head gasket from overheating. I replaced the heads and now I have a truck that will not shift auto or manual. The only code I get is in the post above. Anybody care to make a guess?
  • litfoot67litfoot67 Member Posts: 6
    I changed the transmission relay next to the battery and now my truck has all its gears and shifts perfect. Thanks for all the help!
  • aslee1aslee1 Member Posts: 1
    Found similar issues on the forum but never an answer. My 5.9L auto will not shift out of 1st until around 4500RPM and only after I let off the gas. I tried replacing the transmission speed sensor after reading the thread but to no avail. Should I be looking at the TPS?

    once it shifts it is fine for all other gears no issues. Shifts to R, P and N fine. Any thoughts?
  • newberndnewbernd Member Posts: 1
    Please check the kick-down lever. I have a 98 4x4 and the return spring on the kick-down lever on mine was horribly weak. It would require you to run up the RPMs before it would shift and then would hit like a ton of bricks. The lever is on the driver's side, up by the front. You can also follow the cable that comes from the throttle body down to the tranny. After tightening up the spring mine shifts 100% better.
  • rghillyardrghillyard Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Dakota, 4.7 auto. Recently we started having trouble getting the trans to come out of park. It's not torque locked, just won't shift out of park. Any ideas why it would do this?

    Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Nothing specific, but doesn't the ignition switch also lock the tranny shift lever, so that you cannot shift out of park when the ignition switch is in the off/locked position? Maybe your problem is with the ignition switch?
  • bassinbob1bassinbob1 Member Posts: 2
    Take the boot off of the shifter and grease with lithium grease. You will not have the problem again. Did it on my 2002 Dakota Sport. I found the resolution on Edmunds before. Thank god because I was just getting ready to take it to a dealer. Who knows how much that would have cost. This happened when it got really cold and the only way it would come out by itself was by warming the car up with the heat on. It usually took about a half an hour to release. Good Luck!
  • thaedthaed Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Dakota auto 5.2l magnum v8 that was running fine all summer and has recently started to idle around 400-600 rpms when warm. Recently i was about to leave town and around 45 mph it made a nasty clunk sound, so i stopped and headed back home. Now when i am at a stop light it will rev up and down 200-400 rpms each jump with my foot on the brake. Anything would be helpful, i have checked all the fluids and they are fine.
  • 05blkdak05blkdak Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I'm new here. Hope someone has an idea about my problem.

    I have an '05 Dakota 2WD - 4.7L. When I am braking i get a pulsation as if I am gently pumping the brakes. There is no sensation in the brake pedal but feels like a brake problem. I have changed the front rotors and the pulsation is still there. Could it be the rear drums even though there is no pulsation in the pedal?

    Also I have a delay in shifting from park to any gear . I have to wait about 20 seconds until it decides it wants to go into gear. I have only noticed this since the cooler weather has set in (Sept or so).

    Any thoughts?
    :confuse:
  • tina_lynntina_lynn Member Posts: 1
    Hello Evryone

    I have a 2001 Dodge dakota sport V8 automatic. About a year ago I was on a road trip and and while i was doing 120km down the highway It stated reving up to 3000-4000 RPM and it would slow down from 120km/hr to 80km/hr while going up a hill and the engine ligth came on. When I got it back home it just went away and I haven't had a problem for a whole year. Till now! It started doing it again but now seems it's having issues with coming in and out of second gear.When I reach 60-80km/hr it revs up to about 2500-3000RPM and it's jerky like it's shifting hard. But when I'am going faster(100-120km/hr) It's fine. What can be the issue. Is my transmission going on me?
  • corriec1corriec1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 02 dakota 4X4 with 4.7 engine. I went on trip to see my daughter-had check engine light but it has had that for a long time. It was very cold here in Virginia when I arrived and on my way I stopped for pit stop. When I went to pull off, the transmission was starting to slip but I drove it another 30 minutes to my daughter's house. When I got up next morning, it would not shift out of park! I got on here and saw this post about the cable going to the transmission so I went out and operated it manually a couple of times-let it pop back in place after releasing it. I got in truck, started it up and wala..it came out of park and shifted just fine!! Thanks a bunch for your post!! :)
  • sawsagesawsage Member Posts: 1
    I have a 92 dakota 3.9 atomatic. It started shifting late (at high rpm). I drove it about 30 miles that way. Then it started slipping really bad. I mean it would barely move.... maybe 10 feet at a time..... then it wouldnt even go into gear. I got a dolly today to get it home... got in it and drove up on to the dolly! it didnt slip at all! After I got it home I drove it around the block a few times, it shifted great and it didnt slip. I put it in park to open the garage door then couldnt get it to go again.
    Any ideas?
  • bjess2000bjess2000 Member Posts: 1
    I have a dodge dakota 2000 slt. I noticed after leaving and upon coming back i noticed transmission fluid on my driveway. Looked uderneath and sure enough dripping from a plate covering the transmission was red fluid. because of the coverring I couldn't see were the leak was coming from any ideas? thank you.
  • [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 0
    This is an update to my previous entry. I won't go into details, but I found out that the culprit was the 1/2 (first bank, downstream) oxygen sensor. It shares the same voltage with the trans governor sensor. I had codes P0138 - 1/2 O2 sensor voltage high, and P1763 - Governor voltage high. The first bank is the side of the engine with cylinders 1, 3, & 5. The second bank has cylinders 2, 4, & 6. The upstream O2 sensor is before the catalytic converter, and downstream is after. If you have these codes, unplug the sensor, and if the problem goes away, replace the sensor.
  • sailinsolo27sailinsolo27 Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone,

    I own a 2000 dodge dakota with about 140,000 miles on the engine. About 6 months ago I started having problems with the vehicle while driving on the higway. I will be going 75-80 mph and the rps will just start to rev up to between 2500 and 3000 and it will not go back to normal on its own. I have found that the only way to get the rmp to go down is to put the truck in neutral, while going 75-80, and coasting down to about 40 where I can shift back into gear. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this and how do fix it? Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks.
  • matty8matty8 Member Posts: 1
    I just got back from a weekend trip and had the same thing happen to me... The advice I got was to get some cleaner and try to find the leak first. There are a few places where it could leak. Where the dip stick goes in and where it connects to the engine were a couple suggestions.
  • donavan2donavan2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 dodge dakota 2wd with a 318V8 and an automatic transmission. Same as #43, mine was rebuilt by a guy who does this on the side.He put in an overhaul kit,new filter and new ATF. Also replaced solinoids in transmission. He checked and cleaned allelectrical connections including dash on/off switch. It shifts fine for 1,2 &3 but will not shift into OD. He claims that it needs a new SMEC computer. I would like a second opinion before i buy . Thanks in advance Donavan2
  • moparfreak2moparfreak2 Member Posts: 1
    i have 1990 dodge dakota 4x4 with a(a500transmission with overdrive),,the problem is ,the transmission chatters when i step down on the gas to hard,it also bucks when i drive down the road? any suggestion,,and does anyone know if i can put a 4 speed in it and if so,where do i find it?
  • newdodgedummynewdodgedummy Member Posts: 2
    My 2007 Dakota started lurching when shifting to first in traffic about 3 months after purchase. I took it in and they "upgraded" the software and the problem went away. A few months ago the same problem occured. Then 2 days ago it dropped from second to first while accelerating normally and just reved. I let up and it corrected. Next morning doing about 50mph it again dropped to first and stayed there. I limped home in forced second gear. Drove it to dealer later with no problems at 60-65mph. They are telling me I have dark fluid and Pressure Alarms. They are saying it needs an overhaul. I just had the Fluid and Filters supposedly (I paid for it anyway) changed about 2-3 weeks ago. Any advice?
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Who did the fluid change? Sounds like they may have used the wrong fluid... Chrysler transmissions can not use Dexron, Mercon, or "universal" transmission fluid - they will die running those. You absolutely must use Chysler-spec ATF+4 (or if it's old enough, ATF+3 if +4 is unavailable - your 07 can only use +4).

    The dealer would never have used anything but ATF+4 - if an independent shop used the wrong fluid in your car, you may have a small claims case to have them pay for the repairs.

    kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
  • newdodgedummynewdodgedummy Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for the information! I will definately look into it. Any idea how long it might take if they used the wrong fluid? Furtunately I bought additional coverage with the truck after having 2 Rangers die on me way too soon (reason for Dodge oh well...). But still it would be a good thing to get my money back for incorrect repairs. Thanks again!
  • maddog85maddog85 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 dakota 4x4 with an overdrive problem. I was coming back from CT one time and while driving along i heard this loud cluck, almost like li dropped the driveshaft. Now there is no overdrive. The tranny will shift perfectly when the overdrive button is off, but if the button is on, meaning overdrive is engaged, at about 35-45 mph the tranny will start to make this annoying high pitched squel, almost like a bearing is shot. I changed my fluid twice since then, the first time there was stuff in the pan that looked like cardboard, think it might be old gasket. I flushed it not long after that through the cooler lines, the fluid wanst burn, just dirty. Think the problem could be the overdrive solenoid not engaging all the way or do i need the tranny rebuilt? thanks chris.
  • maddog85maddog85 Member Posts: 2
    i had the same proble with the heat on my dakota not to far back, i flushed the coolant, but that didnt help. I found out that the heater core was plugged. Theres a couple of options to solve the problem, try n flush out just the heater core, use compressed air(not more than 50psi) to blow it, or replace it. I ended up using compressed air n it worked fine, but i would suggest to get a new one b4 you do that. But i noticed you live in florida, what do you need heat for? lol As for the tranny, the best thing for a wuick fix is change out the fluid and filter, i have the same problem on mine and that usually cures it. The only problem that i have is the overdrive doesnt work, hasnt worked for a while. Hope this helps.
  • lutonmoorelutonmoore Member Posts: 1
    I just had the 42RLE auto trans on my 2006 Dakota changed out at 79K miles. I bought it new, light use, and had the Chrysler dealer do the trans fluid/filter at 30K and 60K, as recommended. I have an excellent (private) mechanic who changed it out for me. I'd rather not ever deal with the Chrysler corporation again. Google in "42RLE" and read about this trans. it wasn't built to do any work, it was built for minivans and crap. I'll get rid of this dog as soon as I can, and buy a Real Truck.
  • malibu3005malibu3005 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 dodge dakota that my wife was driving last night and she stopped at a stop sign and it wouldnt drive anymore but the reverse worked when i picked her up i was having problems for awhile with it having a hard time shifting between 1-2 i checked the fluid and it was at the right mark could someone before me put the wrong fluid in it? i was told first and reverse work off the same band so that would mean to me that it wasnt the bands it would be a valve body problem am i thinking in the right direction?
  • lilrip913lilrip913 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 dakota sport 3.9 the trans don't want to shift right and is getting stuck in 1-2-3 and not up shifting. sometimes it wilL shift but only when i let rpms drop or jumps hard. I read about the governor presser transducer and presser solenoid /d lockup. where are they located at and any other out put would help!
    thank you for your time!
  • purrjpurrj Member Posts: 5
    Hi, all - I have a 97 Dakota 4WD, automatic transmission, V6 with 52k on it. The transmission has been slipping when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd for about the first 10-15 minutes of driving, longer when the outside temp is below 60 degrees. Once up and running, it shifts fine.I replaced the TPS awhile back, but that made no difference. Just had an O2 sensor replaced, but that, too, made no difference. Shifts fine in all other gears, and the Overdrive works fine, too. It was garaged at my Dad's place for a long time and I don't think he ever did anything to maintain the transmission, just the routine fluid changes. Mechanic said tranny fluid is at the proper level but smells a little "burned. Any ideas? Would atranny flush help, or am I looking at replacing the transmission? Thanks for any help! Janelle. PS What happened to Dusty?
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    I would not "flush" the tranny, but dropping the pan, cleaning or replacing the filter and refilling with the right transmission fluid would be the first things I would try. If you can do the work yourself, shouldn't cost more than $50.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    Hi, I have been a Chrysler mechanic for 15 years. A delayed 2-3 upshift, expecially cold, is caused by a worn front clutch seal. A trans overhaul is the only way to fix this problem.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    The following list of possible symptoms associated with defective Throttle Position Sensors on Dodge trucks are a compilation of actual field experiences, both observed and reported:

    off-idle hesitation
    hesitation at speed
    rough engine idle
    intermittent rough engine idle
    rough idle then stalls
    engine RPM fluctuates at idle
    engine RPM flairs after start, then stalls
    engine stalls when placed into any gear
    engine stalls after start unless throttle pedal used
    engine stalls when throttle opened
    engine surges at speed
    engine performance poor: engine misfires under load/acelleration

    irratic shifts
    irratic torque converter unlocking
    irratic or over sensitive 6-5 downshifts at speed (68RFE)
    irratic or over sensitive 5-4 downshifts at speed (545RFE)
    irratic or over sensitive 4-3 downshifts at speed (RE, RLE)
    3-4 driveline clunk
    delayed 1-2 shift
    delayed 3-4 upshift
    3-4 upshifts occurs abrubtly after 2-3 shift
    no 3-4 upshift
    no 4-3 downshift
    no kickdown at speed
    no or irratic torque converter lock up
    no or irratic overdrive shift
  • idunno009idunno009 Member Posts: 7
    hey i have an unrelated question..My front left wheel area on my 06 dakota is making a metallic click sound when I hit a bump or brake alittle harder than usual..I suspect either the sway bar bushing or the outer tie rods..any ideas?
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    Have 01 Dakota 5.9/4x4/46RE/114,000mi - bought truck with 48,000mi and went round with the dealer about trans not starting in 1st gear. Finally replaced gov (I think) and got 1st gear back. Since then, trans has tended keep LU engaged until heavy accel. and then unlocked/downshifted immediately to passing gear (UGH!). I lived with that. Recently, LU converter has begun to stay unlocked with increasing frequency. Last week, trans started whining in all gears except PARK, and rapidly began to loose OD. Whining was loud and accompanied by rattling-type noise. Started truck today and whine far less but louder in Reverse (trans was cool). Question: other than taking it in for code reading, what do you think has happened to it and how to fix it?
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    Generally a whine noise is a low fluid condition or a front pump noise. Now that being said a condition known as reverse buzz exists in these transmissions that can be caused by a worn seperator plate in the valve body. Even with a new trans however a cold reverse buzz can sometimes be heard. If your torque converter fails to lock when the PCM wants it to a DTC will set. Most likely P0740 TCC no RPM drop at lockup. A torque converter stall test can be ran by your dealer with their DRB scan tool. Check your fluid!
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    edited February 2010
    Thanks, dasboot. I read that a clogged filter can cause this whine, too. Can a clogged coolant line/cooler/check valve do this too? Should I flush just the coolant lines and cooler and replace the check valve?

    I plan to change the fluid and filter, then take truck to AutoZone to have the code(s) read. I don't want to chance doing more damage to the trans by driving truck without a good filter and fresh fluid. The check engine light is on. If the converter is damaged/worn or the pump is worn, at least I can eliminate the possibility of the problem being just a clogged filter. On the other hand, if the trans is good and converter is good, and just dirty/overdue for a filter/fluid change, then the change will help clean out the trans. If the trans pan is gunky, but no appreciable metal, I'll just change the fluid again after a month or so. If the codes turn up a trans problem, I'll deal with that at that second change. Does this sound like a good plan?
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    If your cooler is plugged you would only be able to go a couple of miles and your trans would be completely fried. You are right about the check valve making noise but not all dakotas have one. If yours does it will be a brass fiting looking piece on the end of fart of the rubber section of one of your cooler hoses. If you have a DTC you would have had a check engine light come on, and it can't hurt to change the fluid and filter. You should do that every 30K anyway.
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    Update: removed trans pan and pan was very clean! Good news! But, I found a bolt lying in it. I'll update again when I get it back together and test drive it.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    But, I found a bolt lying in it

    That doesn't sound good.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    What does the bolt look like. What size and what type of head?
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    Dasboot, thanks for checking back. Turns out the bolt goes to the governor solenoid manifold/base. Must have not been sufficiently tightened by the dealer several years ago when the solenoid was replaced. I just put it back in!
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    2nd update: test drove the truck; drove great! It's amazing how much a filter/fluid change can make.

    BUT... the lock up is still gone. I'm guessing it is either a PCM issue (I'm going to do the reset), or the TV cable or TPS.
    If I get the PCM codes read, will the reader reset the PCM and the check engine light?
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    They don't have to clear the codes, just tell them you don't want them to. I can't stress enought though that a no lockup AT ALL condition is most likely a failed torque converter. Again the easiest way to find out would be to have a dealer run a TCC stall test. They would probably only charge you a half hour diag, maybe less if you went in there and told them that you just want that specific test ran. It only takes a couple of minutes. Then you are not guessing.
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    edited February 2010
    3rd update: After driving some, lock up is not gone, but it is weak. At highway speeds (with cruise control on), RPMs are steady on fairly level ground, but uphill RPMS increase MOST OF THE TIME. Once in a while, the RPMs will stay steady with road speed even going uphill. Once in a while, even pressing the accelerator slightly won't increase the RPMs while at highway speeds. There is no shutter; trans shifts smoothly (there is a little flare at low speed accel very infrequently - mostly when turning, I think). I'm planning to have the TCC test dasboot recommended. I cleared the codes; the check engine light is NOT lit. Is it possible that the converter is okay, but the solenoid is bad? I checked the TV cable, and it appears to be adjusted correctly. I am considering replacing the TPS.
  • dasboot72dasboot72 Member Posts: 115
    Ifyou feel that you have some lockup capability then the TCC solonoid is working. When that solonoid fails electrically it will set a TCC solonoid circuit DTC. If you truly have a weak lockup that should be discovered during the TCC stall test and that would point to a failed torque converter or one of the seals on the input shaft that is responsible for sealing the path the fluid takes to the torque converter.
  • circuitrydercircuitryder Member Posts: 30
    Thanks for the response! I have detected one further thing, and I wonder if it sheds any light on this. The lock up seems to come in around 37 (not 47) (with RPMs at about 1700 at 50/55 MPH) and tends to be solid up to about 50 MPH. Over that, the lock up mostly goes away.
  • rgallowayrgalloway Member Posts: 1
    my 2000 dakota shifts fine when cold but does not downshift to low when parked and then put into drive. I have replaced the tv cable and adjusted it to the .32 in. as required by the manual. I am wondering why it seems to slip only when it is up to temperture. Anyone, please help ,as I am afraid the transmission will eventualy burn out.
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