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Comments
thanks for the help
pump cost at NAPA was $289
I dropped the tank with in 30 min. Jack the truck high enough to slide the tank out . You should be able to do the job in less then 3 hrs. DO NOT GET A CHEAP ONE.
Also make sure to change the connector on the wiring.
That has been some of the problem.
You should not have any trouble
Tom
"If the engine turns over and over but won’t start...I would have someone bang on the bottom of the fuel tank with a rubber hammer or block of wood AS you crank the engine over. This can help kick start a weak fuel pump. If you still can’t get it to start...you will need a mechanic and a tow truck I am afraid. There is not much a do-it-yourselfer can really do these days without the proper tools and manuals."
Hope this works for someone else too. It saved us over $300.
Just 10 days after the 3rd fuel pump was installed the Tahoe turned over but failed to start. After being towed to the shop and the shop tries to start the Tahoe and it starts.
Now I am going crazy I need the vehicle to work.
I do some checking and find there are 2 fuel pumps for 1999 Tahoe's the FG0089 and the FG0090. My VIN # states my vehicle had the OEM FG0090. The shop says there is no difference and they will not replace the current FG0089 because it is testing 58 psi pressure.
What can I do?
With this many pump replacements, I think the diagnosis is wrong. Just for info a poor ground to the pump will cause it to go bad early, and also give a false impression of a bad pump. Ground is skipped during checking by fellow techs most of the time. Recomend checking to see that all small ground straps near battery, engine compartment, and chassi have good connection and havent been removed due to some other repair.
Let me explain what has to happen in order for your pump to come on. I will explain it in slow motion because it happens quickly.
When you first turn your key to on (run position) not to the crank position yet. Your pump gets a 2 second prime to pressurize the system. Power from the PCM trips your fuel pump relay for 2 seconds. When your switch reaches the crank position and the PCM see's that the engine is trying to start, it trips the relay again to turn on the pump. If a ground signal from the oil pressure swich is not noticed in 2 seconds, the PCM will turn off your pump.
So this is what has to be done to diagnose this; If it doesn't start but cranks, and the pump isn't coming on. Verify power and ground to the pump. Power wire is usually grey, and ground is usually black in color. Use a digital volt meter or equivalent and hook it to the power wire to the pump and turn the key on. You should see near battery voltage on that wire for 2 seconds. Same proceedure for ground. If both check out, and pump still isn't coming on, bad pump. If there is a ground or power failure then there is some other issue. With this many pump replacements, I suspect a poor grounding some where.
I have been getting lazy in my years, and all I can say is that I am glad I paid the dealership to replace mine because parts and labor are guaranteed for life. And it's a darn good thing I did because I need to take it in AGAIN! You would think they would put in a sound replacement when their profits are on the line! :mad: :sick: :lemon:
There is a switch/sensor/solenoid on top of the gas tank that is tied to the emissions system on the truck. These go bad .
I was told by the dealer, if you have a tendency to top off your gas tank, it shortens the life of the solenoid.
Go to a dealer who actually reads their Service Bulletins and stop "shot gunning" the problem with gas caps and Code Resets.
I was told from the VIN# one pump is 55 psi and one is 60 psi. I will also check the ground completely
and went to leave a place the other day and it would not start, it would turn over but not start. No gas is getting to the cauborator. We changed the fuel filter and hope that it is not the fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated.
Also, special note. If the new cam sensor has a small piece of cardboard stuck on the end of it, size and shape of a dime, dont take it off. Thats for adjusting the air gap when you bolt it in. I don't think yours has this, its just a bolt in plug and play type. Good luck
Just filled gas tank earlier that day. Reputable, high volume station, never any fuel quality problems.
Engine acts like it is starving for gas.
What should I check first?
This is a 305 with central sequential injection.
Any feedback is highly appreciated!
Thanks
The replacement was pretty expensive from what I remember. If this is the problem, a half of a roll of duct tape will work just as good as a new air duct!
Good luck, let us know!