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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Fuel Pump/Fuel System

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Comments

  • 81ringer81ringer Member Posts: 2
    Does anyone have a location for the fuel filter on a 04 3500 DRW crew cab, with 8.1L and allison tranny? I traced the lines back to the tank, and the only place i think it could be is either the tank or a box mounted on the underside of the bed. 1 line runs to it.
  • rockyleerockylee Member Posts: 14,014
    You will get better. My FIL gets 12 mpg with his cummins diesel. My buddy Cody get's 13.1 in his Toyota with the wind behind him. My FIL also in his Ford F-150 only got 14 mpg. I think it's possible you will see 16-18 mpg in the future.

    Rocky
  • ahoronahoron Member Posts: 30
    the fuel filter slides out of the bracket after you remove the fuel lines
  • ahoronahoron Member Posts: 30
    Go to a different dealer
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    Litalow, I have been wondering if you have fixed your fuel problem yet and if it was the regulator? I finally changed out my regulator this past weekend and unfortunately there was no difference. I am going to try the fuel pump relay(s) this weekend, and am just hoping I won't have to drop the fuel tank for the fuel filter.
    I am so bummed though; it seems that changing the regulator was fixing everyone elses issues and was hoping for the same.
  • litalow79litalow79 Member Posts: 10
    Hi Sean,
    Well I do think we worked all the bugs out this time...
    it seems that even when the fuel relay had been removed from the truck, they noticed that the fuel pump continued to stay on......? so they began tracking the electrical wiring using a skematics to isolate the fuel components, and found a bundle of wiring that had melted when at some point it had crossed over the exhaust next to the engine block. the wires apparently were enclosed inside the plastic tubing commonly used to protect them, and when the two wires touched and bounced around it sent a current, and could not be seen. I got the truck back on friday, and over the weekend drove from colorado to visit my son in kansas and put 1,500 miles on it without any problems.
    is it your fuel pump stays on thats the problem?... or a no start? fuel injected or carb? I have never heard of a fuel filter being in the gas tank before....(well, maybe?) usually on the front of the carb. or looks like a 2 or 3 inch cylinder attached at both ends within the flow of the fuel line, in the engine compartment, or can also be located just under the driver side door mounted on the frame within the fuel line. if you live in a cold snowy area like I do, we have lots of the no start issues with things freezing.. good luck with that... let me know ok, thanks. R.R.
  • stevewhitstevewhit Member Posts: 4
    On some GM's the fuel pump power is "maintained" after starting through a set of contacts in the oil pressure sending unit. If no oil pressure, no fuel. Not sure about your model. Do you have a wiring diagram? Hope this helps.
    Cheers
    Steve
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    I screwed up on the typing in my last response; I actually changed out the fuel filter last week, and you were right in that it just unbolted from the bottom of the truck. I meant to say that I am not looking forward to dropping the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump if that ends up being the problem. I am going to check everything else first, but with my luck...the tank will have to come out once I exhaust all the other options by replacing every other possible component.
  • litalow79litalow79 Member Posts: 10
    Hey Sean...
    Have you checked your timing?
    Is your truck an automatic? ..if so ..when you put it in DRIVE, and without your foot on the gas, will the truck move by itself? If it does, turn your timing down.
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    I have not checked the timing, but I don't think that is the problem. It is very strange, but here is what it does. The first time I attempt to start the truck, it won't start, if I continue to crank it, it'll take about 10 seconds to start, but then will run fine. If I turn the truck over for a second, stop and then try again, it will usually start right up without the lengthy cranking. If I have recently ran the truck, it will start right up without any problems and once the truck is started, it run's perfect every time. The fuel pump does not turn on to prime the injection system (for 1-2 seconds when I first turn on the ignition) as it did for the first 100K miles I had the truck. I am assuming that the issue is related back to the fuel pump not working properly, but I am not sure if it is the pump by itself or some other component not doing its job by not telling the pump to turn on. It almost seems like to pump is not working at all, because I can't hear it even when the truck is runnig, but I know that would be near impossible for the gas to siphon into the fuel injection on its own.
    Being that the truck runs fine once it's started, it hasn't been one of those hot issues I have been putting as much effort into as I should be....but we all know that these problems end up leaving you stranded one day. So far though, the truck has been doing this for about a year! I know that what I need to do is check voltage going into the fuel pump to see if it is getting the voltage to prime it and then keep it running when the truck is going. That would tell me if it is the pump that is suspect or the relay/other wiring, but I have just been reluctant to dive into it so far. I was hoping someone would have experienced the same problem at one point and maybe this is somewhat of a common problem.....but that does not seem to be the case.
  • litalow79litalow79 Member Posts: 10
    Hi Sean
    I have a 79 firebird, does exactly the same thing... we just know that it will always start on the third try, we have just become accustomed to that always being the case because after it does start initially it runs beautifully, with the exception that it does have some compression issues. the timing is right on and has a recent tune up. my husband suggested that possibly you could check the connection from the sending unit (at the top of your gas tank) where it has a clip/plug connection to see if it has any rust developing inside there, and use an electrical grease inside the clip to prevent problems later on. for my firebird, I really think a sound solution is to start saving for that new motor in a couple of years, or have the top end rebuilt at some point on the motor we got, and for at least two years now, with regular maintenence covered, the cold start with the older engine has never been a huge problem for us, she has always started on the 3rd try.
  • milkermilker Member Posts: 3
    Hey, if your still out there, the problem could very well be a bad fuel pump or the gas line to your engine has a vvvery small leak that causes it to lose pressure on the fuel rail after you turn it off. Mine was a fuel leak where the quick connect to the fuel line is. The leak was unnoticed until I lowered the fuel tank to replace the pump.
  • turp14turp14 Member Posts: 4
    I need to replace my fuel return line for my 01 HD 4x4. GM says they are on back order till March. Supposedly only 3 dealers in the whole U.S. have the part but wont part with it. Is this a common problem????? I have checked with local salvage yards and they typically cut the line when salvaging the engine. Any ideas where else I can get the part
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    For some reason, I can't pull up repiles 51 and 52. Am I the only one that can't bring them up?
  • turp14turp14 Member Posts: 4
    thats my bad.....I just joined this web site and messed up my initial messages so I deleted them.......
  • turp14turp14 Member Posts: 4
    GM came through out of the blue...got the line on Friday...I was having some of the same problems as above. Hard cold starts, starter would crank but veh wouldnt start until the 2nd or 3rd try. Ended up needing a new fuel pump and I had a leak in the fuel return line. FYI
  • jeffsayersjeffsayers Member Posts: 15
    Hi Sean:

    I was wondering if you have made any progress on your hard start situation. One difference I notice you have from all the other is that you do not want to start on the FIRST try; theirs are all having trouble on warm starts. (Plus the flooding smell) Anyway, I ask because I am having the same problem you are. A friend of mine went through a similar situation with a different GM vehicle and it was the fuel pump. A very expensive job as well as the pump itself is around $600! Anyway, I am hoping maybe you have found a lower cost culprit!!!
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    What was the cost for repair? My truck is having the same problem, not starting on the first crank but almost always on the second.
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    Jeff,

    Unfortunately I have not put much time into it....probably because I know the answer of how much it is going to cost and how much work to do it. I may get around to putting more time into it this weekend, but we'll see.
  • bballabballa Member Posts: 56
    What was the cost for repair? My truck is having the same problem, not starting on the first crank but almost always on the second.
  • jeffsayersjeffsayers Member Posts: 15
    Three years ago it was a $900 job at the dealership. $600 for the pump and $300 for labor. I have heard this is not an uncommon situation, maybe the cost of the pump has gone down? According to the dealer, there are suposedly some out there for a few hundred cheaper but they are junk. Considering the source.......Has anyone found a good price on a fuel pump and had it installed for awhile?
  • milkermilker Member Posts: 3
    global automotive on eBay sold me one for $118 shipped to my house!! One yr. guarentee.
  • jpontesjpontes Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2000 2500HD Sierra that had a cold start problem. I live in Northern Ontario with cold winters. At -25C or colder it would not start. After trying 5-6 times it would start. I took it in to GM dealer. The problem was "ignition switch intermittent open". Scan test code P1626. Perform fuel pressure test--OK.Perform extensive diagnosis. Contact
    TAC (case #7952789). Replaced ignition switch assembly.
    Recheck in a.m.--OK. I had this work done in Jan/05. The above info. is off my invoice of repair. I hope this helps many of
    the posts I have read.
  • turp14turp14 Member Posts: 4
    Fortunately for me a friend owns a shop and I got a good deal...but even a good deal was 650.00...ouch....but that was also replacing the fuel return line that had a leak and an oil change (plus the fuel pump). starts right up every time now. fuel pump alone should have cost me 525.00 plus tax, labor so figure your cost from there.
  • meanchevymeanchevy Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 07 Silverado 1500 with 6.0 Vortec Max, and am seriously disapointed. "SEAMLESS" yea right, AFM has effectively ruined throttle reponse, I am angry. You can literally hit the throttle when in V4 mode and count one second till the engine responds.... what is THAT??

    And don't even think about putting aftermarket exast on there, I did. It sounds great like it should in V8 mode, but when V4 mode kicks in all you can hear in the cab is loud backpressure, extremely annoying. IS there, or will there be a way to disable this menace called active fuel management???? :mad:
  • gearhedgearhed Member Posts: 26
    Had my 4wd ext cab Rado for about 3 years. Getting about 14.8 mpg, mostly around town driving. If you want to tow anything above 2000 lbs, I strongly recommend the 5.3 liter. Only reason to get the 4.8 liter is to save the $800 option. This 4.8 liter DOES NOT get much better gas mileage than the 5.3 and you will notice less power, especially towing heavy loads (above 3000 lbs).
  • c6vette4mec6vette4me Member Posts: 1
    ive got just 400 miles on the new truck and i cant tell when afm kicks in unless i see on dash. although when you need the throttle it is a bit on the slow side picking it up.havent had it long enough to tell about mpg but it is a real NICE truck!!!!
  • 1offroader1offroader Member Posts: 208
    A couple weeks ago I got 18.2 mpg in my new Silverado 4x4 Crew, 6.0L, w/3.73 gears. Trip was about 90% flat highway, 10% mountains, 70 mph all the way, cruise control on, a/c on all the time.

    18.2 mpg is mighty impressive for a powerful full size pickup. I'll accept a split-second lag (and I mean 'split second') when accelerating from the V-4 mode to get that kind of mileage. However, the truck was in V-8 mode more often that V-4, so there is NO lag in that case.

    When gas hits $4.00, and it will, and sooner than we all would like, no one will be whining about AFM.

    1offroader
  • dagolferdagolfer Member Posts: 8
    18.2 is great. Did you figure the mileage or the onboard computer? My trips have been on flat land, cruise control, no mountains, no load, no towing, no A/C. I am getting in the low 16's.

    It is interesting to compare our mileage to the new A380 Airbus. It holds 500 people, has a storage load of 70,000 lbs, flies 400 MPH and gets 10 miles to the gallon.
  • 1offroader1offroader Member Posts: 208
    Both. I figured 18.2 at the fillup, and the onboard computer showed it also at 18.2. Which means that the computer is nicely calibrated, which is a good thing and the Chevy guys are to be commended for building an accurate system.

    BTW, I think you meant the airbus gets 10 gallons to the mile.

    1offroader
  • bowtie6bowtie6 Member Posts: 2
  • rshookrshook Member Posts: 17
    Check engine light indicates gas cap issue. GM really needs to address this. Been to the dealer too many times so I just drive w/ the light on now but since it's emissions related, I have to get it fixed before that time of the year comes up!

    Anyone have success with an aftermarket cap?
  • pinspins Member Posts: 2
    I pick up my new Sierra SLT next week, as an add on option I was considering the cat back exhaust system, touring model. My new truck has the 5.3 active fuel management system and the dealer talked me out of this option due to the backpressure when the motor kicks down to 4. He stated there isn't enough backpressure and the nice purr turns into a rather annoying hum. Comments?? ANYBODY :confuse:
  • twintandemtwintandem Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Yukon XL with the 5.3L Flexfuel and at 50~60 on flat ground I feel the V4 struggling and making noises, then it will go to the V8 mode with a jerk. This is not seamless and undetectable as stated in the AFM info. I had the dealer put the scope on and did not find a miss, said it was ok. I have ordered a Superchip, thinking it is a ECM issue that will change when the new program is installed. What have any of you done to investigate this?
  • 1offroader1offroader Member Posts: 208
    twintandem,

    I have experienced NO jerking or noises. It is totally seemless on my 6.0L Silverado. Don't accept what the dealer says. Go back until they make it right. Or go to a different dealer. Take the chief mechanic on a ride.

    1offroader
  • boatpullerboatpuller Member Posts: 4
    What indicators are there that tells you your in V4 Mode on the 07'GMC Sierra 1500 SLT's w/6.0L max?

    Is it only the on board computer showing the instant fuel economy increase, or is there some other type of indicators?

    thanks
  • 1offroader1offroader Member Posts: 208
    I don't know about the GMC, but my Silverado has a mode on the Driver Information Center readout on the dash that shows whether it is in V4 or V8 mode.

    1offroader
  • ksr3ksr3 Member Posts: 2
  • samiskarsamiskar Member Posts: 2
  • samiskarsamiskar Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone please describe the operation of a 2006 Silverado that has a front and rear fuel tank with no switch to change tanks? Which do I fill first? Can I tap a line to operate an air compressor engine mounted in the bed? Thanks in advance.
  • mmajormmajor Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1988 GMC Sierra 1500. I drove it this morning. Went back to it about 2 hours later and it would not start. It seemed to be an ignition problem to start with. I checked all ignition components and could not find a problem there. Changed the fuel filter, Changed the oil pressure switch, checked the fuel pump fuse, swapped the fuel pump relay still nothing. I poured some gas in the throttle body and it started for just a moment. Soon as that gas run out it died. Tried it again and it did the same thing. I sure hope it's not the pump. I don't really want to drop the fue tank.
  • litalow79litalow79 Member Posts: 10
    that sucks, sounds like the fuel pump is bad. when you turn on the ignition can you hear the fuel pump running?
  • mmajormmajor Member Posts: 4
    No nothing but dead silence. I guess your right. I just wanted to confirm my suspecion with someone else. Thanks litalow79. I guess I was just wishing not to drop the tank.
  • litalow79litalow79 Member Posts: 10
    My Hubby says check the wiring first that goes from the guage to where it plugs into the sending unit at the top of the tank... make sure you don't have any bare/worn wires and your ground is clean and free of rust and debris and is tightened down. check all other connections to fuel pump for wear.
  • kc20moellerkc20moeller Member Posts: 1
    hey i was wondering i am having the same problem with my truck it is a 2000 gmc sierra my fuel pump just went out. and it is just the pump. the sender unit is all ok. i was looking at new ones and they all say with robust fuel system and some say without it.....WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? i see some for 150 dollars but dont have robust fuel system and i have no idea what that is so i do not know what the right one to get is....i am new to this forum and dont really know how it works but if anyone can help please email me at kc20moeller@hotmail.com
  • mmajormmajor Member Posts: 4
    All I did was replace the pump itself. And I also found it to be easier to unbolt the bed and just move it back about 2 feet. Remember to take loose the filler neck. Changing the pump is a piece of cake. Once the bed is moved remove fuel lines from the sender unit, take a brass punch and unlock the locking ring at the top of the sending unit and the whole assembly can be lifted out be lifted out. The new pump for mine was somewhere around sixty dollars. I got it at an advance auto store. My GMC Serria is a short bed. Its held on by eight bolts. You will need a good breaker bar and a strong arm. Don't forget your lights will have to be disconnected, you'll is the plugs . You'll also need a buddy to help move the bed back and forth. Any other questions don't hesitate.
  • seannooseannoo Member Posts: 15
    I am not sure about the robust fuel system, but I have seen 2 different types of fuel pumps based on the emission systems. In California, we have strict emissions and there is a special pump needed here to meet those standards. I finally got around to fixing my fuel problem this weekend but it wasn't even the fuel pump at all. I dropped the tank down, pulled out the pump and installed a new one but it wouldn't work. It turns out the factory ground connection to the pump was bad. I was getting the positive feed but somewhere in the factory harness, the ground came disconnected. Unfortunately I had already put the new pump in so I was stuck with it.
    I agree with the last guy that lifting the bed off is probably a lot easier than dropping the tank so I would suggest that if you had the option.
  • slackerwireslackerwire Member Posts: 1
    When it comes to cars, I'm basically a moron.

    Now that thats out of the way, on to my problem:

    My 2004 Chevy Silverado started acting like its out of gas this morning, and it keeps dying. I know its not out of gas (put $40 in this morning). I live in Las Vegas and we have had temperatures over 115 every day this week so I am not sure if this is a heat related problem.

    It died the first time, started back up, chugged and pinged a little bit then died again. After letting it sit for 10 minutes it started up and went about 2 miles before it died again. I repeated this process 10 or 15 times until I was able to limp it home. I would imagine it is a fuel line/pump/thingamajig problem, but like I said I am a moron when it comes to cars so I have no idea what could actually be wrong. Any help would be appreciated.

    In case it's important to know (which I dont know) I installed a new battery in this truck 3 days ago.
  • jt94gmcjt94gmc Member Posts: 1
    I think my truck is starving for fuel when it boggs down - not getting flooded. but I'm wondering if my fuel pressure regulator could be the problem.
  • mmajormmajor Member Posts: 4
    The first thing I would do is change the fuel filter. Next I would disconnect the main fuel line,turn the engine over and check to see if fuel is pumping. This will tell you if your fuel pump is working.
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