Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

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  • tendonstendons Member Posts: 43
    a 2000Disco II with 15000 miles, mostly city driving is said toneed new brake pads, front and rear. Does this seem reasonable?Also the dealer says that it's necessary to pump the brakes a number of times on the LR and that's normal for that vehicle. Is so? The pedal almost goes down half-way until contact is made. thanks
  • wantadiscoiiwantadiscoii Member Posts: 7
    To answer some of the questions posed to me:

    The price is still to be negotiated. I'm waiting for my company to secure it's next round of funding before I go and buy this thing. I should be able to negotiate a good deal since it is sitting at a BMW dealership and they have no interest in keeping it around. The truck has a lot of accessories that I like, but would never buy because they are way too expensive (brush bar, running boards, wood trim..etc.)

    The LR dealerships in the bay area seem ok. I've haven't been too impressed with anyone except for one sales guide at one location. Used Discoveries are VERY expensive at the dealership. Makes me wonder if they even look at the prices outside the dealership.

    The San Jose LR dealership has stated that they will not release ANY information on the service history before or AFTER I buy the vehicle, unless I have written permission from the previous owners. Now how is that possible if I don't even know the previous owners? It would be more of privacy issue for me if I knew who they were. Since it does have "private" info like the key and radio codes, I can understand them withholding the information until I am the registered owner, but completely refusing is crazy. An owner should have the right to know the service history of any vehicle that they own, especially with all the crooks out there trying to pass along "bad" vehicles. Tincup - is there a telephone number for LRNA that I can try to get the service history from if I do buy this truck?

    In past postings I have heard people talking about a good service manual that someone can purchase. Would anyone who knows about this please tell me what it is called, how much it costs, and where I can buy it?

    Also, I am interested in finding someplace that sells one of those smoked plastic bug guards for the hood. I haven't been able to find anyplace so far, does anyone have any ideas?

    Finally, any word on the daytime running lights for a Discovery built for the US market?

    Thanks for everyone's messages and help.
  • jackickjackick Member Posts: 12
    Hey- let us know when you buy your 2000 disco- I think my truck rolled off the line with yours- same manufacture date- they are sisters!

    FYI, we have had no problems with our DII other than some minor adjustments (I mean like really picky things- like the little button on the seat belt that keeps the metal thingy from sliding down was missing) and we are still loving this truck! Last week I had the misfortune of being involved in a rear end collision- the guy in front of me in a Chevy Blazer slammed on his brakes and I hit him at about 15 mph- and his back bumper and tailgate were destroyed! My truck was only bruised a bit- the spout for the headlight washer cracked off of it's mounting and the front rubber got a bit smooshed. This thing is built like a tank! I would hate to have been in that fender bender with anything less! Good luck!
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    You could try the Land Rover owner care number 1-800-637-6837 for the records. Each dealer is an independent business and is free to set their own business policies if not in conflict with the franchise agreement. As far as daytime running lamps, activation of this feature is not presently supported in the U.S. There are a couple of pieces involved that are not available to our dealers.
  • buroskyburosky Member Posts: 90
    The bug guards or hood stone shields (as they call it) are available from Atlantic British (http://www.roverparts.com/land_rover_parts.html). They are around $80. You may have to call because it doesn't show on their website. Also, if you order something cheap first they will send you a 10% discount coupon for your next order. They might be the only one carrying this item. I have checked other sites and was not able to find it. If you find it elsewhere and they are cheaper, they can match the price as long as they are identical items. Good Luck!
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    15,000 miles is about right for brakes. I replaced my pads the first time at 16,500 and I'm a pretty conservative driver.

    I recommend soft-compound pads, they'll let your rotors last longer. I also recommend doing the work yourself if you've got the basics: jackstands and very simple tools (like: pliers). Once up on stands you can do both wheels on one side in under 15 minutes. It's one of those easy, fun jobs.

    You shouldn't have to pump the brakes; it sounds like you've got air in the lines. It's a simple matter to bleed the air out.

    Good luck, -Bob
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Have the dealer bleed the brakes using their Testbook, it uses the ABS system to do it and has cured the problem better than manual bleeding.
  • wantadiscoiiwantadiscoii Member Posts: 7
    Burosky - thanks for the info on the bug shield. I will contact them if/when I get my truck.

    Jackick - glad to hear that you've had no problems with you truck. I'm sorry to hear that you got into a little fender bender, glad that your fender didn't get bended and that nobody got hurt.

    Tincup - thanks for the number, I will try to call them.

    Finally, do anyone know of the good book or manual that has been recommended to Discovery II owners? Any idea what it's called, where to get it, how much it costs? It it just a service manual that someone can buy from LR?
  • jempghjempgh Member Posts: 9
    Hello Board,

    I have been lurking for the last few weeks and have gone back through the posts but haven't come across this issue. I am considering a MY '99-'01 DiscoII at auction(dealer direct, not eBay or the like), and wanted some thoughts/opinions....A couple of points/comments:

    1) A dealer friend of mine is assisting me w/the transaction, so I will have an experienced set of eyes w/me(although he is NOT a LR dealer/expert)

    2) Most/All of the LR vehicles at this particular auction are from BMW's finance group, so they are for the most part low mileage off-lease vehicles(not private party)

    Whichever vehicle I decide on at auction I can bring back home and have it inspected(there is a dealer nearby, but they are not very easy to deal w/on the purchase side of things)...

    My questions:

    1) What is the " used certification" process that I have seen referenced in previous posts? Is it a fixed fee type of service or does it vary from dealer to dealer.(This may be a moot point as these are coming from BMW Finance and are most likely certified, no?)

    2) Is buying this way reliable/smart?

    3) Any experiences of folks out there who have tried this?

    Thanks in advance for your help and input.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The only way to get a certified vehicle is through a Land Rover retailer. This plan requires an 100 point inspection by the retailer and he has to participate financially in the program. Vehicles purchased from BMW financial will not be certified. Auctions can save you money, but you may find that some retailers tie programs like free loaners to vehicles purchased directly through them.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I purchased my DII from a dealer here in Sacramento that specializes in high end vehicles. He purchases low mileage Rovers at the auction and discounts them heavily. Every September he tries to obtain around 50 of these vehicles. Mine was a former rental unit with only 6K on the odometer. The rental market is not too great for high dollar Rovers and Discoveries so they are returned in mass. Most of them were low mileage one or two year old cars, still with factory warranties and all the bugs worked out. I have been driving mine for the past three months, have put 3K on the odometer and have yet found any problems with it.

    I feel that this forum should be split off to separate the DIs from the DIIs. They are completely different vehicles.(85% of the parts won't interchange) It seems that all the complaints have been with the DIs and the DIIs should not be included in these discussions. Everyone that owns a DII that I talk to raves about them. The bad press on the DI is the reason that I stayed away from Rover so long, but what SUV do you have to choose from? A Exploder? A Tahoe? My Burb ran great but the doors and trim pieces keep falling off. A Trooper that loses $15K at driveoff and has no resale?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Anyone else want to see a topic split?

    Steve
    Host
    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    Nope.

    The DI and DII are a lot closer than the "85% of parts won't interchange" comment leads one to believe. The hard parts are basically unchanged, the intended use is unchanged, the basic layout is unchanged. You've still got the V8, ZF autobox and transfer case, ABS, swivels, coil suspension, solid axles, brake pads, fastener questions, fluids questions, electrical quirks and performance issues. These are the things we mortals can deal with. True, the DII has seen many incremental improvements but most people here don't know (or care) where the new DII axles came from or how many fewer moving parts they have. Or how the ECUs work or what level of microcode they're using or who made the engine management system. That's for the Testbook wielding mechanics to deal with.

    It makes sense to split off the musty crusty 4-popper Series Rovers from the Discos, and perhaps the Rangies as well, but I don't see the DI and DII as being that dissimilar at the level we connect with them.

    Just my $.02 -Bob
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    DII's do not have the swivels of the DI. They have the CV joints with rubber boots used in the Range Rover along with different axle housings
  • jempghjempgh Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the responses...Expert1, if it's not asking too much, what price range are you talking when you say "heavily discounted"? The ones I am hearing about are '99 DII's in the $19k range and '00 DII's in the $23-25k range. I don't as yet know specifics on trim, but all vehicles are low miles(20k or less).
  • photodiscophotodisco Member Posts: 17
    i've been following this board for close to a year, this past weekend i decided to jump in headfirst and buy a discovery ii w/ the works (ace, se7, cold climate, white) its was the exact one i wanted and the last 2001 the dealer had, i got a decent deal (i think) and 3.9% financing. after only 100 miles the SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT has come on and it seems serious but i remember reading somewhere that is not serious, what should i do? otherwise it drives like a dream and i am very happy with the ace handling
    as a former porsche owner, i can say that this truck handles as good as truck can. Also, i was on the atlantic british site looking for running boards but they had three kinds with no real difference described. does anyone know the difference between the oasis, chevron or the standard. also can i put these on myself?
    please advise thanks
    please advise
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    My comment about the parts interchangablity came directly from my dealers' parts department mouth. The parts man has been at the dealership for 3 years and has still not been able to cross any parts between the two models. From looking under the hood and under the rig I see that most of the electrical quirks have vanished(now Bosch instead of Lucas), exhaust leaks (readilt assesible manifold bolts and SS exhaust), and performance issues are now gone. Try one, you'll like it.
    Jempgh, my rig had 6K on the odometer, was a 2000 SD model and was $26K. I personally preferred not all the bells and whistles that the SE has. The duragrain interior is better suited for me with my kids and the dirt and snow. It handles great without ACE and less electronics is better down the road. The stereo sounds great (who needs 10 speakers anyway in a midsized car?) Everything else is the same. The serviceabilty is better than any other car that I have owned.
  • nanuqnanuq Member Posts: 765
    I agree these are different trucks, but look back at the history of this thread over the last 4 or 5 years. Questions are usually about fuel mileage, longevity, electrical weirdness, and reliability. The DII is truly a better truck than the DI (for most people) but... the same questions apply. Most people who come to this discussion are asking "should I do it??" and that applies to any series Disco. People who have owned one for a few years aren't asking about parts interchangeability, so that point is moot (or nearly so). Issues that the normal Joe can deal with are common between the trucks, so it makes sense to keep the thread in one piece.

    Typical questions that Joe Sixpack will ask (that's a sixpack of Guinness by the way):

    How about bigger tires?

    What oil/filter?

    How come I'm only getting 15mpg?

    Brake pads are dead at 15k miles?!

    Steering oscillates after hitting bumps!

    My service engine light is on?

    Why won't my sunroofs and seats quit sqeaking?

    See? One thread makes sense.

    Tincup: Thanks for the update about the boots and CVs replacing the swivels. I personally think that was a bad move on Rover's part.

    Regards, -Bob
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    They took a very complex and problematic system (27 parts with leakage problems) and reduced it to just a couple of parts that have become almost trouble free (in 3 yrs we have sold only 50 CV joints).
  • buroskyburosky Member Posts: 90
    Try going to http://www.roverconnection.com/ aside from having lower prices on the running boards, they have better pictures too. I think the only difference is the pattern. I spoke to the AB sales person and he said it came with instructions. You may have to drill a few holes but he said it was pretty straight forward. It will be around $100 for the dealer to install it for you. You can still go with AB if you want to. They will match the price and if you still have that 10% discount offer, you could save a few bucks. You get the discount after you place your first order. Therefore, buy something cheap first then order the big stuff. I was thinking of getting the running boards as well. Please post your experience installing it. I am curious about how easy/difficult it is to install.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I checked out the aftermarket and factory running boards for my rig and after climbing on them I decided that the flexed too much. They looked nice but for accessing my rack I felt that they were unstable and would snap off with regular use. I purchased Manik nerf bars instead. They look great, support 300# with stability and are about 3/4s the cost. They also mount to the factory holes in the frame and took me about 30 minutes to install.
    Nanuq, it took about one day in my rig to answer all of the questions. The stock tires could not be much bigger, taller maybe. Standard pH16 will do with 15/40w oil. 15mpg is great compared to other 4x4s of this size and weight. (My Burb got 10 and my brothers' Exploder gets 15 with a V-6.) My wife only gets 19K on her Voyager brake pads so 15K isn't that bad. (to change them is a snap) No problem with steering, but the 4 wheel ABS takes a little getting used to when braking and hitting bumps. My engine light came on when I forgot to properly screw the gas cap back in. I don't have the fancy seats or sunroofs so no squeaks. (remember this is no woosy 4x4. A few squeaks are acceptable in my book with what this rig can handle) I applaud BMW making this rig more user friendly. 9500K and still no problems, quirks or complaints.
  • jempghjempgh Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone have details on this program? Prices, length of coverages, etc? Is it available if one buys a LR from someone other than the dealer? Thanks to all...
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Land Rover Assured is only available to vehicles purchased at Land Rover retailers.
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    I'm 1700 miles into a 2001 SE. Other reports are above. So far so good, but I also am having a hard time adjusting to the brake feel when hitting bumps. They shudder and squeal and the feeling is that there is no braking action. It's like you're not going to stop. Of course you do, but it's not a feeling/sound that inspires confidence. What is it that causes this; other cars/trucks I have owned with ABS did not have this feel at all, and I'm more than concerned about some offroading I have planned next year (so far only highway except a Rover dealer "mudrun"). Tincup/Nanuq do either of you know what's up?
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The shudder and noise is the ABS system working. Land Rover ABS is a bit more sensitive than most other makers, as it works down to 1 MPH (for off-road usage). If you have any doubts about whether the noise is normal (every one I have driven makes a buzzing like noise and the pedal shakes when ABS engages) I would advise taking it into your dealer and having the service advisor ride with you to hear the noises.
  • awseymourawseymour Member Posts: 18
    My 2000 DII does this a lot, especially when braking on sand or gravel, or crossing over a New Hampshire pot hole, even light braking at slow speed.

    The brakes are very sensitive as tincup47 says, and they do take some getting used to over other makes with ABS. When you start "stump jumping" the traction control does the ABS for you and it is always growling.

    I ask my dealer about what I think is a "mushy" feeling to the brakes and he confirms this is a common issue.

    Good luck and enjoy!!
  • photodiscophotodisco Member Posts: 17
    nanaq,tincup, others..
    i would appreciate your opinions.
    i bought a 2001 se7 w/ ace on 9/29 less than 100 miles later the Service Engine Soon light came on. i took the car in for service and they said it is the front and rear o2 sensors "nothing major" after 3 days i got the car back but 50 more miles and the same warning is on again. today is Saturday and i'm wondering whether i should return the car. i hinted at it the first time, but the dealer told me to bad "go trade it in if you want". i love the car and am willing to keep it if these are minor problems but the last thing i need is a problem car that needs serivicing every other week and a dealer who is a jerk. I think i can still back out of the contract due to a glitch in the contract.. should i or are these minor bugs that will go away. please advise, all suggestions appreciated

    thanks
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Was the dealer you bought it from a stand alone centre or a shared facility? I would imagine from what you describe it was probably a shared facility. If you are not satisfied with the answers or treatment the local dealer is giving you, I would suggest you call Land Rover Owner Care at 1-800-637-6837 and calmly discuss your concerns with them. They can request an inspection of your vehicle from the regional Parts and Service Manager, who can work with our tech line and your dealer to get your vehicle repaired. Vehicle buybacks are subject to your state's Lemon laws in most cases, which allow the dealer and manufacturer to make good faith attempts to repair your vehicle.
  • breckinbreckin Member Posts: 2
    I recently (2/01) purchased a 2000 Land Rover with ACE and all options except 7 ps and have thoroughly enjoyed the car ever since. I purchased 3 dealer add-ons - California burlwood trim kit, cd player, and brush guard with lights. After 7500 miles, I can gladly say that I have encountered none of the problems I've heard about from other owners on this board. I'm starting to think that the 2000 disco is the best year in the models series. I bought my disco in January of 2001 as a 2000 demo model with 148 miles on it and managed to get 6 grand off - I was pretty happy with the price given what I've heard about LR's "no hassle pricing". I've only had two problems with the car and they have been very minor. The first was the wood trim kit (which isn't even equipped on the car normally anyway) - it really classes up the interior but the piece around the hvac unit/stereo started to "splinter" and crack at the top. I took it back to the dealer and they replaced the front hvac piece (at a cost to them of $458!). When I picked up the car after they replaced the unit, I noticed the new burlwood hvac peice was also cracked! I had the feeling that the guy who installed it just said "ah, he won't notice". I do have to say that the dealer (LR of Greenville, SC) went out of his way to rectify the problem and the third one has had no problems. I'm proud to say that everything you hear about the exceptional customer service at LR is true. They're more proffesional, courteous, and personnaly attentive than other dealers I've dealt with. If they just had better quality control at the shop they would be perfect. The only other problem I've experienced is an an engine squek at low rpm's. The dealer tightened the serpentine belt, but the problem remained. They then replaced the serpentine belt, but the problem remained. . . . .then one day, the squeks suddenly stopped for no apparent reason . . 5 months later and I haven't heard one squek out of the engine. Maybe it just had to get worn in (it quit squeking at about 3700 miles) . . who knows. Other than that, the engine has been absolutely flawless. The transmission is very reminiscent of a 5 or 7 series beamer, which is second to none.

    Although I love the car, I have to mention the models downsides for anyone thinking of picking up a disco. For the most part they are minor but are worthy of mentioning:

    1.) Unusually sensitive ABS - Go over a bump while braking and you hear the ever familiar tat-tat-tat of the abs system activating and that "dead" feeling on the brakes.
    2.) The rear subwoofer sucks - I'd rather go without than having to cut down the bass to avoid the sub rattling my license plate - I even coated the back of the plate with acoustic dampening material, but it still rattles. The rear door is a stupid place to put a subwoofer. The HK sound system is very solid otherwise.
    3.) Power - Okay I knew it wasn't a speed demon when I got it but it could really use the 4.6's standard powerplant. I can say however that the engine is silky smooth and makes gorgeous sounds under heavy acceleration . . . if only it had the associated ooomph of a more powerfull engine.
    4.) Fuel - You have to mention this in any meaningful constructive "critique" of the LR, but I knew the fuel economy sucked when I bought it. . . its still abysmal though. When you get down to about a quarter tank I swear to god you can actually SEE the needle start to nose dive. So be it.
    5.) The rear door - This thing is downright dangerous - in medium to high winds, its a good likelyhood that this rear sail will slam shut from full open position. Spend 45 minutes during tailgate cleaning up spilled beers and shrimp dip from an unexpected slamshut of the rear and you'll see what I mean.
    6.) Frame - this car needs a more rigid frame - theres too much torsion in the body when going over ruts and bumps that lends itself to squeks and knocks (squeks come exclusively from the rear hatch and back seat latches).

    All in all, I have thoroughly enjoyed my Land Rover and encourage anyone thinking of picking one up to give it serious consideration. There's a certain extent of prestige and "curb appeal" with owning one that you don't find with other suv's and the dealer service is exceptional.
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    The frames on all Land Rover products are probably stronger than any other production 4X4's on the market. That is one of Land Rover's hallmarks. If you cross axle any of our vehicles (which puts incredible twisting force on the frame), then stop and get out and you will find you can open and easily close all the doors including the tail door without having any binding as you would if the frame were twisting. We have an articulation ramp on our demo course that demonstrates this. Most SUV's will not allow their doors to close in this situation.
  • c2soxc2sox Member Posts: 19
    On several occasions when I turned off the AC and actuated the Econ button I noticed that the air coming out of the system seemed a little warm. It's as if I turned on the heat or something? It got to the point that I just left the AC turned on. Sometimes I just prefer to have air circulating inside the cabin without having to have the windows rolled down. Is this normal to all Discoveries? Another problem that I've encountered twice is once I started the truck the heating system would automatically be turned on.
    I realize I probably have turn her in and have her inspected. But I was wondering if anybody else has experienced the same annoyances. Thanks in advance!
  • cwigintoncwiginton Member Posts: 14
    Has anyone else experienced this problem?

    When I unlock my Disco II and get in, the red light on the dash continues to blink rapidly. Then when I turn the ignition, it seems to start to turn over and then the alarm goes off. Is this a problem with the alarm, battery, both or something else?

    Please advise.
  • jsnivelyjsnively Member Posts: 1
    As in message #1131, I just bought my 2001 SE and have noticed heat coming from vents and around my legs when the heater is turned off. I bought the car with dual roof because I hate A/C running all the time. What gives with this?
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    You should have your vehicle checked out by tour dealer. There are a couple of known issues that could be causing your problem and depending on year and mileage should be covered under warranty.
  • lrdiscoiilrdiscoii Member Posts: 2
    I am looking at a 2001 Disco II, Chawton Wht and interior of Lightstone leather.

    Ignorant but practical question - anyone have this interior? It looks VERY light (almost White). Concern I have is keeping it clean and presentable - especially with young kids and dog (Big Dog - Lab).

    Also, with 300 miles on it, I expect it should be classified 'used or demo' not new. Agree?

    Appreciate any comments
  • tincup47tincup47 Member Posts: 1,508
    Mileage has nothing to do with classing a vehicle new in most states. A vehicle is classified used once it has been sold and titled. Demo's are generally vehicles driven by sales staff or mgmt. as company vehicles and generally have 1000-5000 miles on them.
  • awseymourawseymour Member Posts: 18
    When I first got my 2000 DII, the alarm would go off once in a while when I was starting it and shutting it down. What I found was that I was inadventantly squeezing the key lock button when I was turning the key. Since I broke that habit it has not happened in almost a year now. My friend drove it and set the alarm off by squeezing the key while starting.
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    Yes, my wife has that same problem with the alarm. The Disco IIs' have incorporated the alarm with the key and she does this same thing of squezing the alarm activate when starting the car. She called me one time from across town that the car was completely dead and I discovered that the alarm had been activated when she went to start the car. A little retraining and now this problem has gone away.
    I too have noticed when I turn off the climate control (not even in the econ mode) that warm air comes into the cab. The only solution has been to keep the temp. at 70 or 72 degrees and let the climate control do its thing. I can't see how my mileage could be affected much. I friend of mine has climate control on his Peugeot, he put it on 70 degrees 10 years ago and has never touched it since. The only draw back though is the fact that the weather is so nice here in California that I like to drive with the windows down and it kind of defeats the purpose of auto climate control. (windows down, heat out of registers.) Haven't dealt with my dealer yet, no problems in 9500 miles. Maybe it is the 2000 Disco II thing again and it was built on a Monday at 9:35 pm. Go figure.
  • awseymourawseymour Member Posts: 18
    I seem to have it figured out, how to get just fresh air into the cab without the climate control being on. Here in NH its freezing in the early monring and 70-80 in the afternoon. I turn the system to Auto, set it to LO, turn OFF recirculate, then turn OFF the entire heater. This seems to give me outside air at the actual outside temperature through the vents and ducts. I believe its because even turned off, the system "remembers" what it was last doing, heat for instance, and even shut off sends the air flow through at that last temp.
  • kbowenkbowen Member Posts: 58
    Had to laugh out loud at Breckin's post about the gas mileage, that you could actually SEE the needle drop when it got low. Sooooooo True. I had the same thought and compared it with the sun setting. When the sun is high in the sky, you don't notice the movement, but when it reaches the horizon, you can perceive movement. And I swear, the same is true with the DII's gas needle.

    About the lightstone interior question, I have it in mine and seems ok so far. It's easy to clean and a good leather conditioner should keep it looking new. But I only have 2K miles on it and don't have a dog or young children, only the wife. you will also notice that the color matches the pillar moldings, which are also white, and doesn't contrast like a tan seat color would.

    As for the alarm comments, I also inadvertently set it off quite often when starting up until I learned to handle the rather enormous key by it's edges, not the flat side.

    Has anyone noticed at interstate speeds with high winds, even with ace, the steering needs a lot of attention due to drifting, or being blown about?
  • lrdiscoiilrdiscoii Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply re: Lightstone. Especially the reference to the pillar color. I had not thought of that.
  • bakcabakca Member Posts: 33
    I am approaching 5k miles and the lightstone is doing fine. No cleaning yet and we've been camping to beach many times etc with our 8 year old... Our dog (G. retriever) typically rides in the back or we'll put down a towel for him. The driver seat near the door sees the most wear from entering and exiting but a good leather cleaner should keep things in great shape.

    I too noticed the heat thing recently. Mostly, I have fiddled with the controls adjusting the fan setting or the temp to get cool air again. One of these days I'll be more deliberate to see which adjustment actually works ;-)
  • kemmonskemmons Member Posts: 29
    Hi everybody-

    Last weekend, our LR dealer put on an off road event up north for their customers. We warmed up with some mild terrain before proceeding to more rugged ground. We had rain, sleet, sun and snow; a variety that added to the atmosphere. The "beginner" course was a good way for drivers unfamiliar with their truck's ability to warm up. Talk about fun, it was neat to see all of the rovers in a line following each other from one course to another and have everyone stare! The course that followed had some pretty tough hills, trenches and mud.....it was great. As much as I loved my truck before, I have the utmost respect for her as well and was impressed with how well she did. There were 29 LR vehicles in all, (4 Freelanders, 1 D-90, 2 Range Rovers, and the rest were Disco's) and everybody had an absolute blast. Most made a weekend of it and stayed at the Lodge, and some of the most fun was had at meals when there was time to swap stories. What a great feeling of comraderie!! If anyone else has an opportunity to participate in such an event, I highly recommend it. It it a great way to really get to know your truck and learn to trust it.

    Our hats off to LR Farmington Hills, MI for doing a stand up job organizing and coordinating the event!!

    Can't wait to do it again!

    Truly happy Rovering to all-
    Kim
  • kwamedogkwamedog Member Posts: 35
    We have had our 98 Disco for two months. It has been GREAT!!! We have free service up to 50,000 miles and the truck still has 2 years of warranty left, thanks to certification. Our problem is a small one but a problem none the less. I am curious to hear if others are having similar issues. We had a brush bar put on at time of purchase (dealer threw it in because wife liked it). Anyway, they scratched her up pretty bad when they put the brush bar on. Now the dealership has been great and they promised to touch her up. However, the touch up paint has been on back order for two months. They actually told me it was in the other day. So, I got out of work early and brought her down, only to find out that it had not arrived yet. It has been 2 months and the parts manager has no idea when it will be in. He says that he is having this problem with all of his parts. He is blaming it on BMW and says that they are not being very helpful in the transition process with Ford. He states that BMW now see Rover as a low priority and is taking their sweet time with parts. Anybody have a take on this?
  • buroskyburosky Member Posts: 90
    Just thought I'd share some observations from the last long drive our family (wife + 2 kids ages 11 and 6 oh by the way the family pet too - dog named picollo) took. We drove from the San Francisco area to Los Angeles taking I-5 all the way (approx 390 miles one way). I have driven this route many times on different vehicles. So far, this has been the best experience. The seats were comfortable, the ride was stable (went through the high winds area before Bakersfield while the high winds warning was on and didn't feel a thing) and generally, no stress which made everybody happy and the trip very pleasant. I had cruise control set at 80 for long stretches and it felt like it was just gliding along. In certain instances I pushed her to 90 with no problems. It felt it could handle more but didn't want to push her that hard. I realize I'm not driving a sports car (felt close though). As we climbed up the grape vine, I had to take it off cruise control. The engine kept on revving up and down as it adjusted the speed. It just became so constant that I felt it best to do the gas pedal myself until we were past it. I guess that is normal for a truck like her while going up hill. Please let me know if anyone has the same experience. Here's one for the previous posts regarding the climate control. I noticed that if you set the AC to your desired temperature then turn it off, it tends to keep that temperature. We left very early in the morning. I set the temp at 72 then turned the AC off. The air that was blowing from the vents stayed warm until I changed it. Gas mileage seemed normal at around 13 - 15 miles per. Just a tip for folks who are planning on a similar trip. The least expensive gas you will ever see on I-5 is on the Lost Hills exit. While every gas station was charging around $1.90 and above, the gas stations on that exit charged around $1.65 at the max. It is quite perfect too since it is just about at the half way point for both directions. Overall, though I considered taking our van because it had better gas mileage, I'm still extremely glad I went with the Disco. It was just so much more pleasant. Happy rovering to one and all....
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    I had this same experience with my Disco II with the cruise control. I set it at 72 mph and it was hunting the whole time. The speed would stay at 72 but it seemed as if the car would rev up then back off then rev up again. I felt that my mileage would suffer with this type of speed control so I took it off and just used a soft pedal to maintain my speed. I too made the trip down south from Sacto to San Diego. At 72 mph I averaged about 16 mpg. The ride is alot stiffer than my van, but the view and road presence is impressive. For a mid-sized car I felt that I towered above most vehicles. 16 mpg versus 22 mpg is not much when you factor in the peace of mind that you get with this sturdy rig. I went 99 though and found gas just north of Fresno for $1.00 a gallon for regular. I paid $1.07 for mid grade at the Chevron. I have found this mid grade to work just fine. Over the Grapevine no performance issues at all. In town I fill up at Costco when I can and buy their 91 octane.
  • rp_fencerrp_fencer Member Posts: 13
    I to drove from San Mateo (Bay Area) to San Diego passing by Los Angeles for stop over. I had the same experience as what you have shared but I usually use Highway 101 going to 152 (Gilroy area) before hitting I-5. I know that Grape Vine is a very tough area to climb but as what you said the Disco II tackled it with no hesitation.

    I read in one of your posting that you are planning to install a running board (or have you already installed one). Purchased mine at roverconnection and was delivered via UPS. Installation was easy you just need someone for little assistance. It will take you a half day of work. LR Redwood City charges $50.00 for installation.

    Last weekend I bought a Fahrenheit 5.6 inch Video Monitor and DVD player from Fry's Electronics in San Jose. They have a Columbus Day Sale for the two system. The package cost me $349.99 plus tax. Installation is $250.00. I think this is cheaper 'coz a friend of mine bought and had the monitor and a VCR installed at Good Guys. It cost him $1,650.

    I will be bringing the car this Saturday for installation and i'll just update you. Very eager to see the reaction of my little girl once i play the Snow White or Elmo DVD. Happy Rovering to you
  • cutiger97cutiger97 Member Posts: 1
    I am considering buying a 2001 Disco, and am relatively new to Land Rover. I have visited three Land Rover dealerships, and was surprised when they refused to come off their price at all, even in the face of this economy where their competitors negotiate and offer 0% financing. Is this common practice among all LR dealerships? Has anyone been able to negotiate a better deal from a dealership?

    Also, the Disco I looked at has ACE. Is it worth the extra $?
  • expert1expert1 Member Posts: 133
    The dealer in Sacto is discounting the 2001s' $3000 off MSRP and offering the 3.9 APR. From what I have been told they stay preety firm on their prices. As for ACE, the $3000 more is a little steep and I think you also get the 18" tires with it so finding 18s at a decent price will be tough too. The handing of mine is great without it. A friend at work says the way to go is a used one or a demo if you want ACE.
  • cwigintoncwiginton Member Posts: 14
    Called my dealer and he said that he didn't know what it was, so he told me to call roadside assistance to get them to bring it in to the dealer. Got it to the dealer and it was merely a dead battery. For some unknown reason, the alarm was not disengaging due to the power loss and it thought that I was trying to steal the car when I turned the ignition.

    Battery was replaced under warrranty and they found no other problems.

    On an unrelated note, looked at the Freelander brochure while I waited on my Rover. It looks like it may be a pretty cool little ride. I really like the interior on the HSE model.
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