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Mazda3 Engine Issues



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,504
    well you have to take in it and have it tested to isolate the cause. A bad ECT sensor isn't so bad, but a sticking thermostat could be dangerous to your engine's health.

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  • i have a 2004 Mazda3 with 40000 miles on it. was driving home stoped at a light. started out then a noise started sounded like a baseball card in the spokes of a bike. it sounds like the noise is coming from the top pulley witch looks to be a fixed pulley. dose anyone know more about this thank you for any help.
  • theres is a reflash to correct this problem there is no part replacement needed the only thing is this is covered by the power train warrenty which is 5 years or 100,000kms (60,000miles) this is a dealer concern. hope this helps
    by mazda tech
  • I am sorry for asking dumb questions here ... I don't know anything about cars.

    What is a reflash?

    Does this mean there is a power train problem?

    Thanks for your help!!!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    "Reflash" is similar to a reset of your computer. Normally not a big deal.
  • My problem is the oposite. Temp is up to the "red". Took it to Autozone. They sugested to replace the MAFsensor ($170.00). Replaced it, didn't work. Item # 2, Replaced the Coolant Sensor($26.00). Still didn't worked. I'm in the process of replacing the Thermostat ($30) at this very moment. This will be the second time I replaced. First time was at 70k and now I've 92k. More to follow...

    Any suggestions?????
    What should I do to ensure the engine hasn't suffer damaged? What signs should I be on the look out for?
  • I had this problem with my Ford ZX2, all you need to do is replace the thermostat and it is realitivly cheap and easy enough to do yourself if you have instructions.
  • But why did u change the spark plug ? was there any issue with it ? if not u should have left it as it is.. however Bosch plugs too are reliable.. i hope it gives no hiccups.
  • 06mazda306mazda3 Posts: 2
    Just looking for some info, today at random the check engine light came one. Other than being a few KMs over the recommended oil change time I can't seem to find a single problem.

    I'm pretty handy with cars and have given it a good once over. Everything sounds fine, drives fine and seems to be in sound order.

    I was thinking maybe an O2 sensor replacement but other than actually changing it I am not sure how to rule it out along with MAFs and so on.

    I'm guessing my best bet will be to bring it and have it scanned but I would like to try and rule out everything I can before resorting to that.

    Any ideas would be much appreciated.

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,638
    All you are doing is wasting your time. There is only one way to find out what the problem is, and that is to have the fault codes read- anything else is merely a SWAG. Go to Autozone and they will read the codes for free.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • 06mazda306mazda3 Posts: 2
    As it turns out the car doesn't like being overdue for an oil change. Once that was done it went off but I will keep your suggestion in mind the next time the check engine light comes on.

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    edited May 2011
    I'm thinking I'm going to have to start believing in the Easter Bunny well before I'm going to believe an overdue oil change caused a check engine light. Something just doesn't add up here.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,504
    Probably a classic case of mixing up correlation with causation; obviously, during the service, something got changed (tightened gas cap? reconnected vacuum line?). Hard to say.

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  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    In 2012 Mazda is starting the introduction of its Skyactiv system. The Mazda3, Mazda2 and Mazda CX7 are all slated to incorporate elements of the system.

    See the Mazda press release:
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I've been following the SkyActiv progress since it was first leaked to the press a year and a half ago (or so); personally I'm waiting for the Mazda3 to appear on our shores with this engine:

    and with this transmission:

  • ex_tdierex_tdier Posts: 277
    Just wondering what would be the typical causes of your engine not turning over quickly. Mine takes about 5+ seconds while my neighbour who has the same model and year takes less than 2 seconds after the you turn the key.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,966
    First thing I'm thinking is battery if the car is cranking slowly. But if you mean that it's turning over fine, but is taking longer to start, that's another matter. With fuel injection, there's no longer any need to have your foot on the gas when you start up. Some of us who are old enough to remember manual chokes on car (yea, I'm in that category) SOMETIMES forget that and lean on the gas as we crank the car. The engines in my Versas are prone to flooding if I do that and crank times are longer than when I just let the fuel injection do what it's supposed to.

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  • I have a 2005 Mazda 3,2.3 motor. Was having a similar problem about a month ago. Even though the battery checked out fine from the local AutoZone I put a new one in anyway and the problem went away
  • Hi, I have a Mazda 3 with 70K miles and in the last month it stalled 2X - once on the interstate when my pregnant wife was driving and then 2 days ago in a parking garage.

    - No engine code, but all the lights turned on during the stall.

    Did you find out the problem? The dealership mentioned water in gas but that does not make a lot of sense to me. it starts up immediately after the stall.
  • bmpskierbmpskier Posts: 2
    edited July 2012
    I recently purchased a 2005 Mazda 3 with 110,000km on it. It was clean and well taken car of inside and out. It was maintained regularly by the first Owner at the dealership per the Mazda Service Schedule. All service records came with the car. I had it checked out before I bought it and did a thorough self maintenance check on everything at about 110,800km.

    At 112,300km I noticed an engine noise that led me to believe it could be a sticky valve or lifter so I immediately checked the oil. It was down 3 quarts (this in the less than 1500km I had driven since I performed the self check) with not a drop of oil under the engine or any smoke from the exhaust.

    After a visit to the dealership I found out that running it so low on oil threw a bearing in the crankshaft and as a consequence I am now in the process of replacing the engine.

    After speaking with the service manager I discovered that the 2.3 engines are known to suddenly start burning oil without any warning or evidence, as much as 1 litre every 500km. Searching through numerous on-line forums I confirmed that it's a prevalent issue with an abnormally high percentage of these cars, some having experienced the problem as early as 80,000K. The apparent cause is a collapsed oil seal inside the engine and the only solution to address the oil consumption, according to the service dept (outside of an outright engine replacement as it's too costly to fix) is to change to heavier oil. This will slow the rate of consumption but it won't stop it. The 2.0 and 2.5 engines do not seem to have this problem.

    Mazda Corp apparently knows about this (the service department I deal with told me that numerous delerships across the country have brought it forward to them) but fails to recognize there is an issue. What puzzled me most is that when looking into the cost of a replacement engine, the Mazda factory rebuilt engine was only warranted for 1 year or 20,000K when all their other engines are warranted similar to what would be provided on a new car power train.

    I am not laying blame on anyone anyone but myself for my predicament. Had I checked the oil every fill-up, as is recommended, I would have a car that burns oil but would not have had to replace the engine; however, IMHO, any vehicle made in the last 10 years with less than 200K on the odometer, and maintained regularly, should not be burning oil at all, let alone at the rate I and many other owners have experienced.

    Heads up to all owners with Mazda 2.3L engines.
  • excuse me bmpskier
    what did you do with your engine issue? I have just purchased a mazda 3 with 80K and now it is using oil .. one spark plug is black - oily all others normal. thanks
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    2005 Mazda 3 with 110,000km ... It was maintained regularly by the first Owner at the dealership per the Mazda Service Schedule. All service records came with the car. I had it checked out before I bought it and did a thorough self maintenance check on everything
    So, there was no documentation of the oil burning issue in the last 7 years? Did you contact Mazda head office?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,638
    Another one and done. Can you say guerrilla marketing?

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • Mazda head office told me contact the dealer. The dealer said no recalls on that and my engine will need to be replaced and just keep adding oil.
  • I ended up replacing the factory engine with a complete re-manufactured engine from a reputable company. it came with a 3 year 80,000KM warrantee. NOTE that it was not an OEM re-manufacturer directly from Mazda as this option was quite a bit more money and only came with a 20,000km/1 year warrantee ( Mazda not providing an original warrantee on their own engine is a little disconcerting).

    Oddly enough the new re-manufactuered engine also burns oil, about 0.75L every 1500km although now that I am aware of the issue I check the oil more frequently (every fill up).

    Generally I love the car and the way it handles; however, as I stated previously burning this amount of oil in an engine should not be happening with cars designed and constructed in the last 10 years. Being as Mazda apparently does not acknowledge this issue as being design flaw and flips the onus of responsibility onto the Owner, I doubt I will ever buy from Mazda again.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 10,638
    I don't think it's an issue with the 2.3; I'd say that the PO of your car and the quality of the rebuild have more to do with your engine's oil consumption.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport / 2014 M235i / 1999 Wrangler / 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2016 i3 REX/2009 Cooper Clubman Son's: 2009 328i

  • I have a 2004 Mazda 3. Yesterday I had my car running and forgot something inside so I turned it off and ran in real quick. When I came back out the car wouldn't start. The battery is fine. when I turn the key I hear a click and kind of a hiss for a second. Any insight would be appreciated. thanks
  • edbeedbe Posts: 1
    I had an 05 with under 60K miles and the engine blew on it because of the oil issue. Got the car new and retired it 7 years later with a blown motor, of course Mazda wont take ownership of the issue. I spent $20K + for a new car that lasted 7 years WTF!!!

    Cost to replace the motor was insane even from corner mechanics that do engine swaps. Interior materials were were not great, the car didnt hold on the interior either, the cloth material on the drivers side door was peeling off. The paint on the car was super thin too, I had scratches on the car that were down to the primer that should have never happened.

    That was my first and last Mazda.
  • tom390tom390 Posts: 1
    From new 2013 Mazda 3 cold start engine ran on three cylinders for about a minute or so. This progressively got worse until finally threw a code that #1 cylinder was misfiring. Dealer checked ,plugs & wires, replaced the coil and proceeded to pull the intake manifold to check or replace the injector. Only to discover that the head was leaking antifreeze into the cylinder; hence the cold start misfire. After the antifreeze was burned off by the excess gas being injected into the cylinder and finally igniting it ran ok. Now Mazda wants to change engines however I'm will not except a car that has less than 1000 miles on it with a second engine. Have there been other reports of this problem?
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