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Comments
The swivel ball is where the CV joint lives in the front axle, you can crawl beneath and see it clearly. There's a fill plug at the top, a level plug at the front and a drain plug at the bottom. They can be a bearcat to refill unless you turn the wheel hard toward the side you're working on... the ABS sensor ring is right inside that fill plug. If the owner has refilled them with Rover grease (the nasty green stuff) then it won't drain well at all... and that's an indication the swivel seal that wipes the ball has been leaking. This is pretty common.
An owner might not want you messing with his truck to that extent, but if you're a serious buyer then all he's risking is the replacement of the lube in one of his swivels should you decide not to buy. It's simple, just crank the wheel over hard, pop the drain plug and catch the spillage. Check it for metallic flecks and milky streaks, then plug it, and refill it. Don't overfill because that messes other things up in there.
Heck, it might even be easier to drain and check one of the diffs, and they'll tell you the same story. That just takes a 1/2" socket wrench... the plugs accept the snout of the wrench.
For pricing, take a look at Ebay. Yeah I know that sounds spooky, but there are lots on there and the prices are low. Or look at kbb.com for your local area.
Good luck!
I've also had Nissans, BMW's, numerous Mercedes', and a variety of "american junk", and all have had their share of problems - but not the 00 Disco!! So go get it ... Happy Rovering to all.
I'm not sure that the 96 issue is as big a deal as I tought it was initially. There is a local truck with 80K. It looks like it's been used solely in the urban jungle altough it has the LR brushguard and steps/slides. It's an SE7 and it's at $10K or so. But, it's a 96...
I've found a 99, and looked like I was on to something (low mileage, good price, S1, dual ac) but it turned out to be an SD. Leather seats is a requirement.
I've found lots of 140K+ miles vehicules.
So now I know:
SD = base model
SE = leather, dual air, more?
SE7 = an SE + jump seats
XD = AA yellow special edition
LS = ?
LE = ?
LSE = limited special edition 50th anniversary?
And that no matter the trim, you could get roof rack, brush guard, slides, tow package, dual ac, dual sunroof, auto box, cd player as options. What's with that pneumatic foot rest thingy I've seen in adds? What about an hydraulic step? What's that for?
Anybody can fill me in on what LS and LE trims are and did I miss anything?
About jumpseats, I found a pair in a wrecking yard for $175. $40 worth of hardware and some careful cutting was all it took to put them in, in one evening's work. I got aftermarket seatbelts and they work fine.
If you find a good looking '96 ask Tincup about its service history... he's a great asset for running that down. If the carbon cutting valves have been done, have no fears about the truck.
Regards, -Bob
Actually it's a swingdown step to help people climb up into the rear jump seats. I didn't put the step on mine for the clearance issue, and because the jumpseats are accessible just fine by kids (who are the only ones who want to ride back there). If the rear bumper is really dirty you might have to pick your kid up and chuck 'em in the back... that's part of the fun and it keeps their knees clean.
But, if you truly have to have real leather, have it put in later in the aftermarket for less money and more color and style choices. Same thing with a sunroof. The aftermarket ones are cheaper and probably better. (The Rover dealer West of Boston puts in aftermarket "roofs " in most of his SDs as a matter of course.)
What are lightstone seats? Did the LSE get the jump seats and dual AC or is that optional anyway? 50th anniversary doesn't seem like it's worth the premium. Had it gotten the safari roof rack and the brushguard...
BTW, are there side steps that are slides? Or do you have to choose between the two? A friend has a Land cruiser and the slides are also steps. I think they are factory.
Francois
The rear step should have been designed to retract back into the bumper. A hitch will reduce your departing angle too. I see another problem area, the rear bumper corners. They are not steel. I bet these get damaged easily.
Is there a reason why there is no land rover club on edmunds, is it that the volume of discussions is very low? Or just too few owners on this board?
Francois
That would be a very good question to ask here: Owners Club Changes, Suggestions, & Announcements!
tidester, host
My poor rear hitch receiver has taken a beating over the years, but I haven't ground thru it (from the underside) and it's still solid as a rock. But my rear bumper corners? I've torn each one clear off several times. *Sigh* Time to move up to a real rear bumper.
Francois
summer 2000 it was sold at an auction
september 21 2000 - accident, right front impact
september 22 2000 - yet another accident, this time a rear impact, more damage
was sold 2 months later with a total of less than 900 miles.
Wow, that's 450 miles / accident average
I'm thinking somebody couldn't pay and was trying to total it, or drinking problem...
The next owner took care of it for 3 months with no accidents, then sold it (maybe the original owner again!)
August 2001 - another accident, rear impact
July 2002 - yet another accident, front impact this time
It did cover about 40K during that ownership.
A little better.
20,000 miles / accident average.
Needless to say I will pass on this vehicule.
Drive safely,
Francois
I'd assume one would put something like the Michelin 4x4 XPC or the Pirelli Scorpion A/T (at almost half the price of the michelin) or even the Michelin 4x4 Synchrone if you stay in the city.
I would definitely buy steel rims and proper offroad tires, but that means I'll have to buy 8 tires...
So anyway, what tires come from the factory?
I have spent the last seven months at sea, just got home, and now have to move the family from coast to coast. I have tried getting the factory wiring harness but they seem to be back ordered. Does anyone recommend an after market wiring kit. I would rather go factory but I have about two weeks before I have to leave which means the factory option is probably out.
Thanks for the help
Tomcatbubba
has anyone received since may 1 2003 the $1,000 rebate?
if so how did you collect?
VERY STRANGE...if you go to edmunds today 6/7/03 you will not find the same rebate...they have conviently changed it to manuf to dealer...odd BUT i assure you i will get to the bottom of it?
let me know any good testimonies of your getting this kind of rebate, please?
ps:so far the hse7 is totally awsome for 41,500 plus tax/title!!!
tc1004
I ran a carfax report on it, and I found it had been a Rental Car somewhere in NY. It was purchased in October 2003, and sold at auction in April 2003.
I have read mixed messages on these boards about buying a Rental. What should I do??
If it's been well maintained, doesn't show signs of obvious abuse, and has plenty of warranty left, sure... I'd buy it for the right price. Look it over closely for offroading damage... sometimes people rent 4WDs and beat them offroad knowing they're not going to have to pay for it eventually. That abuse will show on the undercarriage.
Good luck, -Bob
I didn't know she was a rental before I bought her... I didn't know enough about the beasties to realize I should have asked. I had some major teeting pains (Tincup should be able to pull up PAGES of service work) but my svc manager went the distance with me and man am I pleased now. I can't say enough about the lads at Land Rover Anchorage.
For what it's worth, they basically turned my '96 into a '99 and all the things they did were on the TSB list. Subsequent Solihull creations addressed the TSBs with new designs, and the gremlins are banished. Forever? It appears so.
A couple of things were apparent on my Disco, evidence of abuse during the rental period. My rear bumper was bent down on the passenger side, and there were some impressive gouges on my frame rails. Knowing that, and anticipating what kind of mechanical havoc was probably raised inside my engine in the process, I still find her to be absolutely stone reliable.
And I'm not even going to close this with a Lord Lucas Disclaimer. HAH! How's THAT for feeling cocky?!
I'm curious.
Francois
Francois
Steve, Host
Never mind.
Also some interesting readings about some guitars and such...
Also, I sent you an email regarding a specific vehicule, if you can help.
Ciao,
Francois
Regards, -Bob
It won't be the wheels that fall off. I swear there's a sensor in the driver seat that determines the inertial mass of your wallet. Once it gets heavy enough the light comes on.
I ran a Carfax (Wish I would have checked here before it did...Tincup thanks for the offer) on it before I bought it and it came up as owned by a "Major Car Rental" company in October of 2002 in upstate NY or NJ, Carmax bought it at auction in April of this year. It looks like it went through a hard winter because it appears to me (Not that I am an expert) to have salt residue in many places. The glove box had a broken hinge and the hook that holds the cargo cover was ripped out. Just not a well taken care of rental.
I found an excellent SE7 on ebay with 1100 miles or so. But I just have this apprehension on buying off ebay with not being able to look at it myself. The seller has excellent feedback for selling high end cars, but the VIN looks funny to me. The first part is SALTW...I thought Disco's all started with SALTY???
Forgot to add that the extra key was on a Hertz #1 keychain. I cannot believe that Carmax left that on there.
Buying and Selling Cars on eBay
Steve, Host
Francois
Here is the link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1- - &category=6294&item=2418498883
They are a licensed Lexus Dealership, and they have excellent feedback. So should I stay away from this?
Thanks,
Brad
Is 1996 really the only year that has had problems with the valves? I know this was caused partly by the GEMS version, but somehow, I would think the new valve design release date would be what I'd need to look for even on a 1997. Plus a 1994 and 1995 would have the same problem, altough the 3.9. From the engine manual I found for 3.9/4.0, the valves look the same to me.
So what is the final word on this?
Francois
PS. Nanuq, I've not been able to test drive yet. Somehow I have the feeling that they changed the wired/plugs and it's still running rough... Which would indicate valve job if it hasn't been done.
'94 and '95 had no real trouble with the valves. You're right, some '97s had it too. It was eventually solved, as those were BIG ticket warranty items for Rover. It started when the 4.0 engine appeared, which coincided with GEMS. Something in the combination allowed unburnt fuel and combustion byproducts to deposit on the valve stems of the exhaust valves (which is why injector cleaner has no effect toward fixing it). That accumulates and causes the sticking exhaust valves. They replace the tapered-stem valves with square shouldered "carbon cutting" valves which then prevent the deposits adhering to the inside of the valve guides.
Keep looking, you'll find a Rover that sings your song. Don't jump too soon.
I sent you an email. I just bought it, but if you would go by there and check it out I would greatly appreciate it. How do you like that FX35? My wife has a Infiniti G35. First infiniti for us great car, but really small with our baby.
I will be sure to mention to Barrett about how you had a bad experience with them. Sorry to hear that.
Man! The people on this board are the best.
Instinctively, I feel that Carfax knows that they couldn't sell the service to dealers if it was going to produce any significant detail beyond was the car stolen or does it have a salvage title. When I approached Carfax on this to complain that they seemed to trim their reports on dealer requested reports, they responded that there were different levels of reports etc. etc. It sounded like they had reports tailored for sellers or buyers. Just pick which side of the sale you were on!
Personally, I wouldn't accept simply , as in MBERK's case, the fact that a "Major Rental Company in either NY or NJ" owned the vehicle. I'd like to know which one. Certainly the maintenance program at say Avis might differ from an off-airport rental house. If I could determine that the vehicle was owned by Avis at Newark vs. Dollar Rental in Syracuse I could make a few phone calls to the maintenance people and make some assumptions about the usuage patterns.
Net-net, I'd suggest that the prospective buyer pay for his own carfax report and get much more detail.
TINCUP, what say you?
If you see auction on the carfax, approach with caution.
If you see commercial rental, pass. I went to see one, man, what a basket case in disguise!
I'd also get the vehicule history from Land Rover. I hear there is a number you can call to get that kind of info, or go to a LR dealer to get a printout.
Once everything pans out, that's when I'd do a test drive. No need to waste your/their time if you find something scary on carfax.
Then, if you know enough about cars, and have compiled a list from all the info that Nanuq posted on this board (for a series I, on an SII, that is a whole different story) and can do the inspection yourself, do that. Else go to a garage you trust and have them inspect the vehicule.
Francois
Next, a white one. This is Alpine White. Erronously advertised as a 97. White was not available in 97. From the VIN, a 96. You learn something new every day.
Last, a red one. Portofino red, a 94-96 color I understand. Not to be confused with Rioja red introduced in 97, altough I cant really tell...
During the past week we also looked at a dark green 97 (is that Charleston Green?) and a Willow Metallic. I've also stopped counting the beluga black discos, altough we haven't gone to see one for sale per say.
So, quiz time. What do you think my wife's favorite color was, what was mine and what is yours?
Francois
It was a Hertz rental. The spare key was attached to a #1 Hertz key chain.
Chris:
Hope the trip went well. No doubt the goodies (Navigation & DVD) inside came in handy.
Have read about some of the valve issues with the 4.0
I'm trying to decide between these two vehicles and have put a deposit on the '95. Is one better than the other?
The 95 is well priced but seems to be leaking antifreeze from below from what seems to be the water pump.
Is this normal for a car with 66K?
The dealer said he'd fix the "leak".
Anyone know how much this would cost to fix if I got stuck with it?
Other questions:
when should you consider changing the timing belt(chain) on these vehicles?
What is the difference between a Disc and a DiscII?
Anybody recommend a garage in the Brooklyn or New York area other than a dealer?
Thanks for your help in getting me up to speed
p2
Well I called Logan. Never could ever get through to anyone in the garage. Ever. Only the ticket agents. Finally, I was passed a message out from Tony in the garage (his daughter was a ticket agent as I recall) that every car they had was maintained A-1 and I shouldn't worry. Yeh, right. So, I checked the air filter on this under a year old car. It was clogged. Never had been serviced. The oil was dirty but all oil is after 2000 miles and the Volvo dealer had thoughtfully removed all oil change stickers. Spying a plastic clip in the on the drivers side of the windshield I knew that this must have been a rental car because afterall this was where they put the Hertz folders when they wait for OJ Simpson to sprint in for his Volvo.
To make a long story short, I never was able to tell if the condition was better or worse because Hertz owned it (and I learned a year later that ALL 2001 XC have that plastic clip in the windshield, rentals or not.)
I wish you well with your new vehicle. We've had good luck with the so-so maintained Hertz Volvo. (It immediately had a change of all filters and fluids to include Red Line ATF and Mobil 1).
Anyway, any other advice to a LR newcomer would be greatly appreciated.
- Maurice