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Comments
My first time getting stopped by a cop was on the Trace. I was 13 at the time, and the officer couldn't see my head over the dash of our '53 Buick and did a U-turn to check me out. My old man had to drive the rest of the way home :-)
Steve, Host
People attribute the cupping to a "block" tread design like the Dunlops had. But my Hakkas have a block pattern and they refuse to cup.
Prior to the Disco I owned a 94 4Runner and never had any problems out there. Being that I am new to the Discovery I am seeking tips from any of you who have operated your vehicles in these types of conditions. A major concern I have is the 18" wheels and letting the air pressure down.
What PSI should I shoot for? I was thinking about starting 5 pounds less than the recommended PSI in each tire.
Also, would you think it necessary to switch from High to Low. All I plan on doing is keeping it in High and dropping to either 3 or 2 gear??
Any suggestions are appreciated. I read the SUV in Sand board at Edmunds, didn't get what I wanted there, figured I check the with Discovery owners directly.
Thanks,
dave
Yeah it sounds like your brake fluid is very old. It should be pretty and clear and a nice light amber at worst. Clean the reservoir and then do a massive bleed to completely flush all the lines and slave cylinders, or you can have the shop do it... I think they can activate the ABS pump and crack the bleed screws and presto, it's a one-man operation!
"Warranty Gold" Claims
Steve, Host
This will recover your tall sidewalls and open up a big range of tire size choices.
by the way I took your advice and change virtually all my fluids with the best stuff-the car is running like new--
thanks again
I) I called the insurer and they said if DIRECTSERVICECONTRACTS.COM goes out of business they will pay the claims-(should I believe that?)
II) the contract would be directly between me and Lyndon.
Any one ever heard of these guys?
They were really friendly over the phone...(that was a joke).
extended warranty
Extended Warranty Purchase?
PURCHASING EXTENDED WARRANTY
tidester, host
by the way once you pass this test-if your car is out of warranty-you can purchase a "real" extended warranty for2yrs-24k-$2000-
NO-this is not an ad for LR-I notice a lot of auto warranty companies don't cover LR and the ones that still do are going under-I need some peace of mind in the nesxt 2 years-
just my boring 2 cents
thanks
for those of you who are fairly new to the discocraze-please check your recalls-some of these recalls are safety related- Besides it's a free opportunity to get a couple of new parts in your vehicle.
Thank you for any information.
(He's 28 but that's a kid to me <g>)
Steve, Host
I asked the dealer if I could look at the service records and he told me that since the car wasn't bought there, he couldn't find any info. That didn't sound quite right to me. I thought that the dealers could view the service records of any vehicle serviced at a dealer.
The VIN is SALTY1243YA234773 in case Tincup can give me some info on the service records of the vehicle. Thanks in advance.
1. Pirelli Scorpion S/T (reinforced) in 255/55/18
2. Bridgestone Blizzak LM-22 in 255/55/18
3. Pirelli Scorpion Ice & Snow in 255/55/18
4. Goodyear Wrangler HP (improved silica compound)
for better winter traction
5. Dunlop got very poor reviews.
If anyone has any experience with these tires then let us know that too. I know the current HP's are horrible in the snow because that is what I have. The new compound is supposed to give improved traction but at what cost? Increased wear? I hope this helps anyone searching for tires. I understand all the new Disco's will have 18" rims as standard equip. Why don't they offer 16" rims with the ACE system here in the USA?
However, after going thru the owner’s handbook, its looks like there is one manual for the UK and USA versions of Discovery (or there are a lot of features I didn’t get). I wanted to make sure so I decided to ask. Please forgive me if this were already answered somewhere else in the discussion (I tried to search for them) or if they seem trivial.
1) Single point of entry – ie pushing the unlock button unlocks driver door or all doors. (From a previous discussion it sounds like this is a dealer settable feature)
2) Speed related locking. (Same thing, sounds like this is a dealer settable feature)
3) Heat front seats (I have got them). The manual says the seats “achieve and then maintain a predetermined temperature between 79F and 97F.” This is a huge range - what is the predetermined temperate?
4) Self-leveling suspension. I have this feature and understand how to rise the suspension but the manual says I need to have a separate remote to lower the suspension. I’m not sure if this is a UK feature only or if the dealer forgot to give me the SLS remote.
5) Day time running lights? It doesn’t appear to have any. I’m guessing this is a UK feature?
6) Rear headphone controls. It doesn’t appear to have any. I’m guessing this is a UK feature?
7) ‘Sport’ mode. The salesman suggested I do not use this feature – he said it wasn’t very effective and suck up gas. Instead he recommended for me to shift into 3rd gear until I reach the desire speed and shift back into 4th. Any comments?
8) Differential lock. It doesn’t appear to have any. I’m guessing this is a UK feature?
This is my first Land Rover and definitely want to have it around for a long time. I would appreciate any other comments or suggestions for things I should watch out for.
Regards!
1. Single point locking can be set at the retailer
2. Same as above (these are actually on the customer preference sheet that should be filled out before delivery)
3. Don't have an answer
4. The SLS remote is an accessory item, it is not standard equipt. Part number is STC50143 and does require the dealer to activate it.
5. Daytime running lamps can be activated
6. If your vehicle has the DVD player the rear headphone controllers for the audio system are replaced by the headphone jacks in the DVD player.
7. Sport mode, if you weren't supposed to use it they wouldn't have included it. It could lead to a small decrease in gas mileage, but no probably no worse than doing what the saleman says
8. Diff lock is not available in the US for 2003
Is it a big problem? What should I expect to pay for the repair?
Additional question on #6 (rear audio controls). I didn't get the DVD option but I couldn't find the rear audio controls). Is this option only included with the DVD option?
Thanks again.
Thanks..
THANKS GUYS PLEASE ADVISE
72/74K $750
72/86K $1100
72/100K $1490
84/86K $1570
I'm struggling with what would be the best way to go.
A Disco is not THAT complex of a vehicle. There are electrical gremlins on some, more on Lucas beasts than on Bosch. Far more, in fact. Your DII ought to have almost all Bosch components. The nice thing about computerized electrical systems is they work flawlessly until they catastrophically fail (touch wood). So if it's working electrically there's no reason for it to stop... unless you're wading a lot and getting tons of moisture up where it really shouldn't be.
As for the "hard parts" like drivetrain and chassis, it is basically indestructible. But those are where the expensive parts come in to play. Those expensive parts should last easily until 80-90-100k miles, then you're looking at replacement of the ABS pump, power steering pump and alternator. Each are a simple job.
The trick is to consider how long you've had your truck and how well you know her. Is she just behaving this week and she's a week old, or do you know her quirks and she's settled down nicely into a reliable state?
In my case, I know she's stone reliable but I'm biting my lip for the first of the expected failures... I'm at 83k miles now.
In your case you've had her awhile and she operates perfectly. No leaks, no weird behavior, everything is fine. Add 24k to 57k and you get 81k miles when the warranty expires... which is just when it starts to get expensive.
My advice is to get a good set of hand tools and a manual, and learn to maintain the bird yourself. You'll get to recognize when parts need attention and you can preempt some failures. It will give you a sense of accomplishment and you'll save A LOT of money. If you're not mechanically inclined and she's working well now? I'd say save the $2000 toward the eventual failures down the road.
They wouldn't sell these warranties unless they were profitable. They're betting the truck will NOT fail, while you're concerned it will... largely due to complexity and the unknown. In that case, rely on the ingenuity and longevity of Land-Rover and trust in their design. If they built bad vehicles they would have disappeared as a company long ago.
Your truck will last. If it's working now there's no reason for it to stop working, barring abuse. I'd skip the warranty and scoff at Lord Lucas.
(ducking)
thanks again-you and tincup and many others have spared me a lot of $$$.
One thing to watch for, many dealers suggest you replace your rotors FAR too soon. I've heard of them recommending it at a 30k pad replacement! I'm on my 4th set of pads at 83k miles (these are about used up) and my rotors are still within tolerance. When they reach the minimum thickness, THAT is when you replace them. Or if they are really really severely gouged.
Your wife is right, "oil is cheaper than metal." Spend some money on lubes and maintenance and she'll last a long time! The truck. Your wife too, likely. Ummmmmmm, I think I'll go now.
I think the dealers figure that it's cheaper for them to replace the rotors often, and avoid having customers return because their new pads are squealing, since new pads take longer to seat to old rotors than they take to adapt to new rotors. Or so I've read around Town Hall.
Steve, Host
Being a smart guy, I extended that train of thought and took her for another motorcycle ride... upped the speed a little and she hung on nice and tight.
Hmmmmmmm, this is a Good Thing.
Hey, remember our discussion about Charlie and the engine he built for my firebreathing motorcycle? I now have a Mr. Turbo unit in the works, which ought to boost my giddyup to a little over 220hp.
Steve, Host
Charlie really appreciated the jewel-like quality of (some of) those engines' internals, and how much you could stress them before they blew. Sort of like a tennis racket, each string is under enormous tension, by itself it can break with a little too much force but together with its companions it will distribute the loads and take a beating... for awhile.
Did he ever show you the bags full of handmade TI fasteners he brought back from Suzuka? Some of those found their way onto client bikes. *wink*
Gawd, he was a good mechanic. I wonder what he'd think of a Land Rover? "Pour some Guinness down the intake ports and turn 'er over... maybe it'll happy her up?!"
Curing the world's ills, one can of Marvel Mystery Oil at a time.
You dont't think for a second my wife would ever get her hands in grease,do you? That bill would cost me 3x what the dealer is asking for the ex warr--
Other cars I have owned with factory racks couldn't accept accessories from thule/yakima. Are their work arounds for the disco? Pros/ cons... help?
Soemeimes, it's hard to make such a decision. It's good to hear someone say what you need to hear!
Take one of your factory crossbars in there and see if one of the mounts is a fairly good fit. You'll find one, guaranteed. Everyone is making aerodynamic crossbars now and one will slide right on.
Oh well, something more topical - just don't rub it in to the Jeep fans:
Is this the greatest car of all? (The Australian)
Steve, Host
It appears to be in decent shape, would like to take it to a shop to have them look it over, any suggestions here?
How many miles can I expect to get out of this vehicle?
What sorts of maintenance costs should I be prepared for?
BTW they(car lot) are asking $10,995, considering the miles I can't see offering more than $6,500 or $7,000 tops.
anyone have an opinion??
Anyone think that's too low?