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If you will answer these questions and perhaps give as much info as possible, I might have some ideas where to start.
Let's hear :sick:
1. brake - in red letters
2. abs
3. hillscent decline
4. traction control
5. service engine soon
i hear that i likely have an issue with my ABS modulator... i called dealership and service told me $3,000 but i found a modulator on ebay... is this a good purchase to fix my Disco?... is that an [non-permissible content removed]-reaming price or am i crazy?... can i fix this myself?...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Land-Rover-discovery-99-04-II-ABS-Modulator-p- ump_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a317Q7c293Q3a1Q7- c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem41474f6dbdQQitemZ280369262013QQptZ- MotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
I also found this on how to change it but is this possible for someone with little experience doing?... what is a fair price from a dealer to fix this?....
and the "service engine soon" light is a solid orange that came on after those other 4 did... it flashes intermittently when i go uphills mostly... this can happen at 20 mph, 40, or 80... when this happens, my car will simultaneously start to jerk, epicenter seemingly near the front (engine)... at times it seems like it doesn't have enough rpm's to stabilize for the uphill climb... is this related to the hillscent decline light?... or is the hillscent decline light related to the ABS modulator/bad valves?... or all of the above??!
A lot of people have complained about "the 3 amigos", a series of lights that require an ABS modulator pump and/or wheelspeed sensor to be replaced... Dealers are quoting up to $3,000 + to fix this but here's an ebay NEW part if you can fix it yourself....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Land-Rover-discovery-99-04-II-ABS-Modulator-p- ump_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a317Q7c293Q3a1Q7- c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem41474f6dbdQQitemZ280369262013QQptZ- MotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories.....
I'm also having a problem with engine misfires... I think this can be fixed by changing the spark plugs...
The jerking problem you describe isn't related to Hill Descent.
I know there's not one in every city, but find yourself a non-dealership Land Rover specialist. It's saved me a bunch over the years.
$3000 seems ridiculously high.
To my shock and surprise, when I left the store onto the road, my transmission would not shift properly and I was attaining 3000 or so RPMs before it would finally downshift. By the time I reached home several miles away, the same thing started happening on the upshift, causing the rover to prematurely upshift at too high of speeds making it lurch as it upshifted and raising the RPMs too high.
Is it possible that the antifreeze shorted something out having to do with the electronic transmission and if so, where do I look for the control module that controls the transmission? If the module is not located near where this hose popped off, what else could have been exposed to the antifreeze that would cause the transmission to act this way. I found it to be too great of a coincidence that the transmission worked fine until the hose blew off, so this is why I'm searching out this possibility first.
thanks for any reply and assistance.
Russell
Again, the trouble here is the transmission and the ECU which controls it. I was simply trying to determine whether the antifreeze could have caused damage or interference to the ECU and whether anyone has experienced a similar problem.
Again, thank you for you reply.
One of the most common ABS questions I hear is, Why do I see the ABS, Traction Control, and Hill Descent lights coming on?
All three of those systems share a common set of core components. The wheel speed sensors, the hubs, the modulator, the controller, and other parts serve all three systems. So a fault in any one of them will cause a problem in the other two. It is actually rare to have a fault that would only disable one of the three systems. 99% of the time, if one is affected, they all are.
To see what's wrong you will need to connect a Land Rover test system and read the faults. These systems are not OBD II compatible, so a generic scanner won't talk to them. At Robison Service, we use the T4 or Autologic tools for this work.
The most common faults are wheel speed sensor faults. The wheel speed sensors in a Land Rover are coils that sense the motion of a toothed wheel that's a part of the wheel hub. The rotation of the wheel induces a sine wave signal in the sensor whose frequency is proportional to the speed, and whose amplitude increases with speed from 0.5 volts to more than 5 volts.
If your Rover has a speed sensor fault, there are two paths to repair. The first is to replace the entire hub on the affected corner. This is the approach favored by dealers because the toothed wheel — called a reluctor ring — and the actual sensor are both part of the hub. The reluctor can get damaged by rust or corrosion, and it can also get damaged by a bad wheel bearing. The only way to service it is to change the hub.
As of this writing, hubs cost around $400 and take about three hours to change.
The sensor can be removed from the hub fairly easily. If you remove your sensor and look inside you should be able to see if the reluctor ring is damaged. The reluctor ring can get damaged if the wheel bearing gets loose. It can also get damaged by corrosion. That's especially true for Rovers that run on beaches. If you see reluctor ring damage, or corrosion, or if the hub has any free play at all - you need a complete assembly. If there is no damage, you may be able to fix the vehicle by changing the sensor alone, a $100 part that's less than an hour to swap.
The path you choose should be determined by examination of the reluctor via the sensor hole. If the hub looks good you have at least 8 or 10 odds that a sensor alone will fix your problem.
Every now and then you will see a Rover that has wiring problems, usually at the connector between ABS sensor and body. Always pull that apart and look for corrosion.
The next common fault in these systems is called shuttle valve failure. The shuttle valve is a part of the brake modulator — that big thing in the location where a master cylinder would be. The modulator incorporates the functions of ABS servo and brake master cylinder into one unit.
If you have shuttle valve problems, you will see the three warning lights on the dash and there will be one or more stored faults for shuttle valve failure. Land Rover has a test procedure to determine if these faults result from a failure in the modulator or if they are caused by wiring troubles in the ABS harness or grounds. Unless you have corroded grounds and cables your trouble is probably in the modulator.
Until now, this problem was addressed by replacement of the brake modulator. That's a $1,500 part. As you can imagine, shuttle valve failure produced a lot of unhappy owners and Land Rover finally listened up and developed a fix.
As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to remove the modulator and flip it over to install the valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 3 hours or so.
This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement over the former method of addressing this problem.
The part number for the repair kit is SWO50030. If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation instructions.
I have a 2004 Disco II and the 3 Amigos have been lighting up occasionally for about 4-5 months now ( perhaps twice a month if that). It seems to happened when braking hard or turning hard. I had the front brake done and all 4 shocks replaced in July.
I brought this into a LR mechanic ( not a dealer) and he is saying that the modular needs to be replaced and is quoting me a price of about $1300.00. This seems a bit high given the fix that is posted above.
Any insight/ advice is much appreciated -
I have heard that the 3 Amigos is not going to drastically effect the performance of the vehicle, perhaps unless you're doing extreme off-roading... This being said it's best to just leave them be if you can deal with the eyesore on your dashboard...
I would say until it breaks completely, you can keep what you've got. Remember that when the lights are on (and only when on) the shuttle valve inside is stuck and you have no ABS, Hill Descent or Traction Control functionality. My dealer said that sometimes you can do a controlled "hard brake" from about 30 mph and free the stuck shuttle valve. Land Rover should just admit fault on this widely defective part and institute a recall!
Also was this release mentioned by Robison ( As of March 2006, Land Rover sells a shuttle valve repair kit for under $100. You will have to remove the modulator and flip it over to install the valves on a workbench. Removal of the modulator, replacement of the valve, and refit to the vehicle takes 3 hours or so.
This shuttle valve repair is a huge improvement over the former method of addressing this problem.
The part number for the repair kit is SWO50030. If you buy it from a dealer you may also want to ask for the March 2006 bulletin that gives test and installation instructions.
Was this put out by Landrover in response to this ubiquitos problem - rather than stating it is a recall?
Thx again!
You have some very useful advice/knowledge to share... Thanks!
I'm having a problem with my LR. I have a 2002 Land Rover Discovery II. Recently the "service engine soon" light came on. I took it to a local mechanic and they said I needed new spark plugs, wires, etc. so I had a 100K mile tune-up done which cost $760. I got 2 miles down the road and the check engine light came on again, so I decided to take my truck to the dealer where I bought it. The dealer said the plugs and wires were no good AND that I need new head and sub gaskets. They said I've got an oil and coolant leak and so on and so forth. I've shopped all over the internet looking for factor LR plugs and wires and can't find them anywhere. I'm going to take my truck back to the mechanic to redo my plugs and wires because they're going to cover re-doing the original job.
As for the head/sub gaskets and cylinder #4 not putting out/off enough pounds - what should I do? The LR service shop wants to charge $4500!!! Does that sound right? I know the economy is bad and dealerships are hurting, but I don't want to get raped in car repairs.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. :confuse:
You're heading down the same road I ventured down (except I refused to get it fixed)... I finally had to retire my LR and buy a 2010 Chevy Malibu b/c en route to my girlfriend's house I had 9 lights appear on my dashboard, 3 were flashing intermittently in non-unison... A few minutes later, my internal and external lights all went dark and soon after, all gauges zero'd out... I was quoted at $3500 just to fix the 3 Amigos lights (a very common problem on LR that also does not get fixed after you take it to get "fixed")...
These cars are not worth the trouble... Ditch yours NOW
$4500 is a bit steep for head gasket replacement, normally running about $1000 less on average.
As for the comments about how bad Rovers are from a service standpoint, the fondness for these vehicles is actually more established in their outstanding off-road capabilities and the trade-off for the repairs is equitable in that regard. If you've purchased a LR as a primary vehicle with the hopes that it will provide you years of pleasure from a low-maintenance service record, then you purchased the wrong vehicle altogether. Their history is no secret and it's critical to consider this when choosing the LR for your needs. Most LR owners perform maintenance and service work themselves and it is sort of a hobby, again with a focus toward its off-road performance.
If you use the LR as a primary vehicle and you don't intend on repairing it yourself to the greatest extent, then you indeed need to trade it in for something more dependable in that regard. If this is the case, I would not put any repair money into it because the value of the 2002 LR right now is about 3200 to 3500 trade-in value, depending upon which specific model you have. The needed repairs would put you at about $1000 less and dealers usually expect to put about $1000 or so into used vehicles on average to establish them as road-worthy. Depending upon what you're looking to purchase, you can play around with the numbers slightly, but don't expect to get your money out of a LR in this year class. It won't happen, particularly with the economy factors being pressed by the government to urge purchase of high gas mileage alternatives, which causes book values on vehicles like LR to plummet.
So if you are a diehard LR jockey and you like going off-road alot, then keep it and do the repairs yourself. You can join the LR forum and obtain a free repair manual.
If you're planning on keeping it and having it repaired as your primary car, it'll empty your wallet in a hurry.
Best regards,
RL
My check engine light came on with the defect of the O2 sensor. I also noticed some black exhaust and poor fuel mileage when that happened. Changing the sensor fixed my issues. Good Luck!
Thx, Al
Here in San Antonio, just bought a 2003 Disco. 64,000 miles on it for $10,000 mint.
Already have issues though as was expected. 3 amigos come off and on. Brakes need to be replaced. You mentioned in the above post about getting a free repair manual. Can you direct me where to get this free manual. I most certainly will be doing as much work on the truck myself as I can. Thanks for any advice/info you can give me.
Rob
Rob
car drives normal from cold start for 4 or 5 miles then all power is lost engine revs reduce to 1000 rpm accellarater as no effect temperature gauge normal coolant ok oil ok no warning lights or ODB errors switch of engine wait 30 minutes car will start and drive normally for 2 to 3 miles then fault recurs fitted a new fuel pump and still have the same problem can any one point me in the right direction
thanks in anticipation
Garry :sick:
Al
P1590
P0304, 0303, 0306, 0300, 0301
P1300, 1319
Vehicle runs rough at all RPM's below 2350 in any gear. Mostly smooth at 2500RPM in all gears.
Recently changed out both ignition coils (no change).
I'm leaning toward some kind of fuel issue:
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure Regulator Valve
I thought it unlikely that I would suddenly have 4 +/- injectors go at once so I don't think that there's an injector issue at this time.
Any thoughts or recomendations appreciated.
Thanks.
Help.
I saw the reference to the Free repair manual in a previous post. This has got to be a good place to start if it is still available.
Try moving the car 10 m away and it might start right away.
If it does it is interference from cables under ground and you may have the problem next time you stop in the same area.
Fix? NO. It becomes a BIT better if you make a longer antenna for the receiving unit.
The best thing is to mount an over ride switch for the immobilizer. After I did that I do not care where I park. If the immobilizer is kicking in I override it and voila the engines starts
Good luck
Now normal temp i.e. on the plus side. Fuel reaching the injectors, but no way the engine will start. Nothing except the cranking .
Any idea?