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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    Thank you for the advice. You started to help me orignally and were right on checking the calipers up front. One was bad and bled the heck out of them like you said. It was a huge help. Brakes even smoother now. I will look into the scan too. It may be the error code needs to be reset or can at least direct me to the problem.
  • stealthnystealthny Member Posts: 25
    I just bought a used 6 cyl 1997 chevy blazer. It seems after all night ,in the morning it wont start untill I try about 6 times. Once I get it started its not that big of a problem. She will start easier. Also when it is in gear ideling I have to feather the gas pedal to get it moving or it will stall ( I can start it right after that). I have no problem with acceleration and dont seem to have any power loss when I am driving or going up inclines. I can hear the pump go on. I dont know if this helps but I believe the fuel gage is not working properly either It wont go over a 1/4. The truck sat for about 7 mos because he couldnt get it started at all.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    Don't worry about the fuel guage right now.Very few Blazers and Jimmys fuel guage works properly in that year model. You need to replace the fuel filter,do a
    basic tune up and check the fuel pressure.In the air filter box when you replace the filter,you may even find that chipmunks or field mice have made a home there.
    After all this see what you find. What did you do to get it started? Make sure the
    fuel tank is full of fresh fuel. Did the previous owner change the fuel pump? There are mistakes that people make when they do this.Do this and see what happens.
    Fuel pressure should be between 54 and 61psi.
  • stealthnystealthny Member Posts: 25
    Thanks for the advice. I will try that. When I went to but it it almost would even turn over then we hooked up jumper cables and ............... it started right up! He claimed he couldnt get it started for over 7 mos. I did purchase a new battery.

    Thanks again I will let you know how I make out
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Also you have to consider that you have bad gas in there, after 7 months, unless you've burned it all up already.

    Other than that, you might check the fuel pressure regulator. If it's bad, it will cause hard starts when the car's been sitting. You can pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and if there's any gas in there, it needs replacing.
  • stealthnystealthny Member Posts: 25
    ok thanks

    I dont want to look stupid here but where is the press reg?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You have to take the upper manifold off, so you might want a workshop manual if you're planning on a DIY. But there's a pressure test connection (looks like a tire valve) that you can hook a fuel pressure gauge to. With key ON and engine OFF, pressure should read 60-65 psi.
  • dp2226dp2226 Member Posts: 28
    I do not want to jinx myself but after replacing the defective caliper, bleeding the heck out of the brakes. I had one instance of the abs light coming on and did not do the issue where the abs kicked in at a low speed. May of been a combo of the bad caliper and air in the lines. The code may of needed time to reset as well.

    If you ruled out bad or dirty sensors and are driving your self nuts, a good bleeding, and checking calipers would be a good place to start.

    I used a vacuum hand pump to bleed them. $30 well spent once everything was bleeder screw sealed properly with a little teflon tape.

    Thank you Cardoc50 for the advice
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    There is something every Blazer/Jimmy owner should know.... Every year from
    1995 up has changes made to the wiring, fuel system,brakes and a lot more. That
    makes things hard to diagnose. Every year they change something. That my
    friends is hard even for a mechanic to keep up with. So be patient if it takes me
    a while to figure a problem out. I will do my best to help anyone.
    Thanks dp2226
  • explorer62explorer62 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 96 blazer I was driving and made a left hand turn and heard a pop and dashboard gauges with the exception of fuel gauge quit working, I troubleshot fuses and dash fuse was bad replaced it and everything was cool took off and fuse popped again and now will take about 1 second to pop fuse. Blazer still runs and drives but kinda hard for me to judge speed and it is nice to know oil pressure and other info any ideas thanx explorer62
  • koda5koda5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer and the Dome light is staying on. I changed the driver side door switch and it did not correct the problem. Has anyone solved the same problem?
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    Make sure the instrument panel dimmer - dome light on-off switch is in the off position.

    If the instrument panel dimmer / dome light onj-off switch is in the dome light off position and the dome light remains on......you may need a new switch. Std. Motor Productrs DS961...$34.79
    OR:
    Replacy the Courtesy Light Relay. AC Delco D1786C...$8.11
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    I would suggest the same as duntov. Sounds like a sure cure.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    I noticed the same thing on my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4. I usually hook up a Deltran Battery Tender to the battery when the vehicle is not going to be used for a few days Once I noticed that the battery tender charge light was still on after about an hour of charging. That meant that there was some sort of excessive battery drain in the vehicle's electrical system. I looked at the instrument panel, checked the head light switch and then noticed that the dome light would not turn off when I closed the door.

    I reached over and felt the instrument light dimmer - dome light on-off switch and the thumb wheel was still in the 'dome light on" position. That happens when you turn on the dome light and forget to turn it off.

    The Deltran Battery Tender can detect any kind of battery drain...dome light left on or a shorted power door lock relay.That also happend to my S10 Blazer and completely discharged the battery in two days. After I installed a new power door lock relay and a new AC Delco battery, I purchased and now regularily use a Deltran Battery Tender. I use it not only to keep the battery fully charged but also to monitor the electrical system..

    Those battery tenders are useful for warning you of an excessive battery drain. Normal battery drain on most GM vehicles is about 8 to 10 ma (clock, sensors, ECM, radio, relays, etc.) but a battery drain lthat small will not cause a battery to discharge or cause a battery tender to be in constant "charge" mode. However, if the battery drain is excessive, about 50 ma or more, the battery tender will go into constant charge mode illuminating the charge light, which indicates there is a electrical problem somewhere.
  • stealthnystealthny Member Posts: 25
    I have a 1997 Blazer that wont read the computer for inspection. Everytime they try it sayd ALL monitors not ready. Anyone ever have this problem? I have driven over 250 miles and have had it over 50 MPH for long periods of time. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's either the ECM or the wiring harness most likely. Sometimes a different type of scanner might get lucky.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Ran into this on a Saturn ION. Nothing was wrong with the car, it was the testing station that had an issue. You might drop by an auto parts store and see if their scanner will read it.
  • jefe63jefe63 Member Posts: 5
    Sometimes when I am driving, all my warning lights on the instrument panel will light, and at the same time all my gauges (fuel, temp) will quit working. Does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing this? Also this does not effect the driving and operation. Thanks jefe63
  • jefe63jefe63 Member Posts: 5
    My emergeny brake will engage, but it will not latch in the engaged position. The only way it works is if held in manually. I have looked under the dash, and have yet been able to find the latching mechanism. Hoping some one out there can clue me in. Thankyou Jeff
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    That sounds like a bad ground. Might take a look under the dash and see if something has come loose.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    I will assume the e-brake on a 2000 year model is the same foot pedal as used in
    earlier years. If so,there is a spring on the foot pedal unit which when disengaged lets the pedal come back up. Yours is not locking when pushed meaning the teeth are :shades: not interlocking. You can remove the whole unit by removing the cable from the latch and a couple bolts holds the pedal assembly on. After removal,you can visually see what the problem is ie...bent pedal assembly or related parts. Also,
    the release cable may need lubricated or the unit itself may need lubrication.After
    you get into it you should be able to diagnose the problem. The worse thing that could happen is you may have to get a whole assembly from a salvage yard. I believe jflemmons is probably right when it comes to your dash problems.If not ,he is definately headed into the right area.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    If you do need an e-brake assembly and don't have a good salvage yard available, try s10warehouse on ebay. I don't have any connection to these guys other than using them for parts on my two Blazers. Good service, good pricing, and fast shipping.
  • jefe63jefe63 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks cardoc50!!
  • jefe63jefe63 Member Posts: 5
    Thanks, jlflemmons, I will investigate.
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    Hey, I have a 98 S-10. Last year when it became cold, my E-brake would not release. I made the mistake of pulling the release latch and pulling the E-brake pedal up with my foot. It never caught after that. I took it apart from the car and looked to see if I could find what aparratus causes it to catch. To my dismay, there are no teeth like the earlier years. It is just a coiled spring with a plastic cam that seems to do the entire job with the release part tied to the plastic cam. I am not sure exactly what I did but I got it to catch again by rotating the plastic cam in another position that how it was sitting. Unfortunately, I live in the mid-west and we have had some very cold days. Yes, you guessed it! I pulled it up again manually because of its slow/no release in the cold weather and it is not catching again. Going to pull it done and do it once again. I dont think it can be fixed on the car. It has to come down. Not a hard job at all except for being upside down for the removal.
    Bitterbrotha
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    the ignition switch in these cars make them do strange things. by ignition switch, I mean the wire harness cluster that runs from the key switch (located in the steering wheel) to the fuse block under the dash @ the firewall.
    Bitter
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    My Blazer did the same thing yours is doing for a year. At idle the fuel pressure was in the upper 50psi, hard starts, could hear the fuel pump running properly, It would turn over sometimes but would not catch until I jumped it. Put a 1025 cca battery in it and it started better on its own, for awhile. It only ran goofy when I put my foot in it, but it would shift funny at low rpms (thought something was wrong with the tranny). It would stall at stops, but run when I gave it gas. Things just werent adding up. IT WAS THE FUEL PUMP! To be certain, if one of these times that it does not start, have some starting fluid at hand, spray some down the throttle body (NOT A LOT) and if it starts right away, do yourself a favor and change the fuel pump. Try to get an OEM replacement or you will have to cut wires. (you do not want to do this). The pump comes with the fuel indicator so that problem will be fixed, too. Unfortunately, the canister for the 97 Blazer cost from $250-$300 bucks for that year.
    Bitter
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    Hey Bitter! Your message sounds exactly like mine.I went through the exact same thing. When I replaced the fuel pump, it still did'nt start without priming, then it ran great.The pump I put in it was an aftermarket from a local parts store. Finally after much frustration I bought a pump from a GM dealership. No more problems at all.I
    hope others will read our messages before they waste money on a aftermarket pump.Mine is a 97 Jimmy. There is another thing that needs to be noted to all do it your selfers... Before dropping the tank all the way, make sure the emmision hose is disconnected from the front of the tank. If the hose connector breaks off and the hose cannot be reconnected, it won't let any pressure build up in the tank and the
    purge solinoid will not work making that part of the emission control system useless. After 7lbs of pressure builds up in the tank, the purge solinoid works. It does cause problems that a normal person just won't figure out. I did this on a 98 Blazer my Dad had.GM made these things different just about every year.Good job
    bitter! :)
  • dludwickdludwick Member Posts: 3
    My son's 97 Jimmy has no electric power anywhere. The other night we had to tow it home after it died from what we thought was a bad alternator. Headlights going dimm, stalled out, wont start, and when the jumper cables were removed it died. So the next day we spend some rent money on a new alternator and battery. Now theres nothing. No power anywhere. I've checked all the fuses I could find, and we took the covers off around the ignition switch and no power to any of the big wires going to the switch. We cant afford a mechanic and if he dosen't have it monday we're screwed....any ideas???
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    check the main power fuse (sometimes says battery/ignition etc. out under the hood. make sure your battery post terminals are clean and tight. And check to see that the starter wires are tight and making contact. One disconnected/corroded solinoid or starter wire can set you back to this state.
    bitter
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    I have the same vehicle,97 Jimmy. After you remove the jumper cables it will die if
    your negative battery cable is not making contact either at the battery or the engine block. While the jumpers are hooked up you are useing the other vehicles ground and it will run until you unhook them. The battery cables can look good but be bad.They were bad about corroding bad inside of the insulation. I would have guessed the altinator first also. And possibly a grounded out battery too. Right now all that comes to mind is the ground cable since you have the new alt and batt. You should also check the ground strap from the engine to the firewall. :sick:
  • oleschoololeschool Member Posts: 1
    My car when I put the key in. The car dash did not come on, did not have any power. I tried charging but it went out again and died out. Well it turn the the car had a shortage and the power acc circuit breaker was the problem. Hope this helps.
  • marblazemarblaze Member Posts: 16
    completely dead everything else functions like it should except the hazard switch any ideas fuse is good and has power
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    known issue with the hazard switch. There was actually a recall on them a while back for some year models. Might check with a dealer to find out if it is covered.

    My dad had a problem on his Town and Country that was covered under a recall issued a couple of years before he got the van. Years later, the problem occured and the repair was covered. Safety issues under recall may not have an expiration date.
  • bitterbitter Member Posts: 22
    Well thank you, Cardoc50,Sir. Just trying to help out the best I can with what little I know. You were right on with that vent line hose. That thing is plastic and necessary for fuel tank pressure. It will break very easily on the take down. Great mention!
    96 and 97, or is that 98 and 97 that is the special years for an elite canister? The fuel pump, gage indicator, and sock all come in one "inseparable" piece. There are many applications that come like this now, but buyers have to make sure that the fuel pump in the purchased canister is specific to their engine specifications. Do not let the parts guy sell you a canister for a 2.2 that looks the same, that you need for a 4.3. It will not supply the larger engine with enough fuel and will cause delays in shifting, hard starts and full throttle hesitation. Sometimes the manufacture messes things up in the right marriage of these components. Good observation Cardoc50. Great insight and expertise. We appreciate you!
  • taylotoritaylotori Member Posts: 1
    I'm in desperate need of photos that will walk me thru what I am to do once I remove the metal covering on the tailgate. I purchased an actuator, but the piece I found that was broken didn't match the actuator I purchased. It was a blue plastic piece, only smaller, but I don't see how replacing that piece could solve the problem. I really need pictures showing the area in question so that I can determine what needs replacing and what doesn't. I'd greatly appreciate any and all help!
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    Hey Marblaze, You probably have your Blazer fixed by now. Sorry I did'nt see your
    message. It's a good chance the multi-function switch is bad. I had to change mine twice,(I got one out of a Blazer at the local scrapyard) after a couple years I had to replace it again.My Dads Blazer did the same thing. We were able to get new aftermarket ones off of e-bay. Around $100.00 I believe.
  • duntovduntov Member Posts: 133
    In 75% of the cases, the multi-function switch lever is bad if your cruise control does not work. However, the MF switch operates the turn indicator switch and that switch is located inside the steering collumn and is more difficult to replace. Merely replacing the MF switch lever will not fix the turn indictor.. I had to replace my MF switch because my cruise control did not work but the turn indicator switch was good. If your MF switch lever is bad, it will only affect the cruise control and w/s washer...not the turn indicator.

    If your Blazer has a cruise control that does not work, it is likely the MF switch is bad. You must remove the old MF switch lever and fish the cruise control wire down through the steering collumn and connect it to the cruise control connector under the dash. You can cut and use the old cruise control lead to pull in the new lead or use a stiff wire as a fish line and pull in the new cruise controil lead. .
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    Oh no Duntov. LOL My cruise worked fine with both bad switches. I told Marblaze
    he needed a new multifunction switch because his rear lamps were not working properly. The same problem me and a thousand others had. I am a retired GM Ford
    mechanic with of course all the ASE certificates that I had to take long tests for.
    When I worked for a General Motors Shop we got TSB's from GM telling us to eplace that switch when we had a Blazer or Jimmy in for a number of other recalls.
    There were many TSB's(the owner never knows about) on those vehicles.Over 42! I don't know how you can replace the cruise lever alone. If you could it would not fix the light problem. You do
    not have to remove the steering wheel to change it.The switch comes as a whole unit and can be replaced in about 20 to 30 minutes.If he has cruise problems too,
    great it would fix that too.If I'm not too late, please don't try to put a lever on the MF
    switch and by all means Don't cut your wiring. :) .All wiring is made to snap together
    with GM factory connectors.Sorry Duntov if I stepped on any toes.(switch not lever)
  • enfernoenferno Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Chevy Blazer 4x4. There is a number of things happening that doesn't make since to me. First it was just really hard to start but once it was started it was ok til all the dash lights starting going crazy..exp:service 4wheel check engine, air bags, seat belt, no gas showing and does not show what gear I am in also the security light stays on. Now it will not start, no dash lights and it will not start even when jumped! Any ideas.......
  • enfernoenferno Member Posts: 2
    Well i did get the blazer started :D , it needed a new starter but i am still having the porblems with my gauges and the security light will not turn off!
  • missmuppet1234missmuppet1234 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1989 chevy s10 blazer and it is all electrical and i cannt see how fast i am going, i was told to check the fuses in the engine but where in the world are they and then i cannt find the relay button and where in the world is it, so pleae help
  • cwangs1cwangs1 Member Posts: 4
    I have been working on my 99 GMC Jimmy 4.3L Vortec engine. I put an Accel 60115 Biltech race distributor on it and the engine hesitates now indicating that the timing may be off a bit. I have also put other performance parts on it to get a bit move power and performance out of it. My question is how to time this thing now. Will it be like timing an older car? The old distributor was not adjustable but this new one is. I have two different timing marks on the harmonic balancer and can’t quite figure out where to look for timing the darn thing. I know which I used for static timing and the engine starts (kind of hard) and there is no CEL on so I am thinking I am close. There really isn’t anything in any of the instructions or manuals about this since the OEM was not adjustable. :( Other parts that have been replaced are the injectors, a ported throttle body and all the ignition stuff. I still have yet to put the headers on and a Hypertech tuner in the ECM. Anybody have any suggestions? Besides buy a new car because it will cost less than what I am doing. :surprise: Thank you for your reply.
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    edited March 2010
    I can only assume you have the 4.3HO obdII engine.If so,I had been looking for high
    energy ignition parts in Summit racing and Jeggs also. I could not find what I was
    looking for because the factory distributor only has a camshaft position sensor in it. As for timing, there are two crankshaft position sensors one on each side of the harmonic balancer.Of course these 3 sensors tell the ECM when to change ignition
    timing. As for the throttle body, it does not have gas flow, just air flow. The injectors
    are at each cylinder under the top half of the intake manifold.You must have changed the coil and ignition module also in order to get it to run. As you said you
    cain't set the timing because the crankshaft pos. sensor and the camshaft position sensor does this through the ECM. The type of distributor you used does not have
    camshaft position sensor.Of course if you did get it to run right with the new parts you will definately need a new high performance Mass air flow sensor at about $300.00 dollars. I can't see it working right at all. All of the above is taking for granted you have the OBDII HO engine.I'm thinking that's all they used since 1997.
    Good luck and with my factory 4.3 I can outrun a lot of V8's.Hope this helps. :)
  • jeff1280jeff1280 Member Posts: 2
    We are having the same phantom lock/unlock problem with our 97 jimmy. We left the back gate open for several hours, now the car unlocks & lock on its own, whether the car is on or not...even drained the battery last night. Any solutions??
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    edited April 2010
    I remember finding the same problem in a GM TSB(technical service bulliten.The GM dealers service dept. gets these all the time.As a matter of fact,I found 42 TSB's on the vehicle. One was a problem excactly as you state. They did'nt issue
    a recall on these problems in order to save billions.They instructed the service mngr. to fix these easy fixes when the vehicle was brought in for other work,hoping
    the warranty would expire. It tells the mechanic to remove the trim off the left front door and run a jumper wire across a wiring connection. What a generic way to
    proffesionally repair electronics.You should be able to bring the TSB's up on your computer.You will be amazed. But hey,I drive one too! If you can't find it, I'm sure
    I have it on here somewhere so post a message if you can't. I live in WV close to where the Massey performance coal disaster happened. I know most of those guys and my twins work the midnight shift there. One is a mine foreman and he likes to
    pile the work on his bro. I have'nt slept yet.They are safe.Thank GOD. So it may take a day or so to get back to you. Good luck and remember,I drive one too! LOL :sick:
  • jeff1280jeff1280 Member Posts: 2
    I couldn't find the TSB you were refering to. Any chance you could e-mail it to me? My e-mail address is kriech@att.net. Glad to hear your boys are safe. Thanks.
  • amandapamandap Member Posts: 2
    Hi,
    After reading many posts about the blazers, I also have had many of the same issues...the clicking sound in the dash ( which all your info. has been quite helpful). My issue is I have a 2000 Blazer and literally EVERYTIME I put gas in it, no matter how much, when I take off the truck is very hesitant and doesn't seem to want to move too well then it will just snap out of it and all will be normal again. We replaced the fuel filter and the sending unit. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • cardoc50cardoc50 Member Posts: 49
    Amandap, The symptoms you talk about is caused by the emissions/fuel system.
    There has to be about 7lbs pressure in the fuel tank for the system to operate properly. When the pressure raises, the purge solinoid is activated allowing the pressure to be vented through the charcoal cannister which allows fuel or fuel pressure back to the intake manifold or tank. Of course when you open fuel lid any
    pressure would come out.Of course that is normal on any vehicle. You seem to
    have trouble building and sustaining the 7lbs of pressure. You may have a bad gas cap or the hose in the top front of the tank is not connected if the tank has been removed, most people don't know about that hose and it breaks off the plastic where it attaches and can't be fixed unless that plastic connector is replaceable.
    I don't believe it is but I could very well be wrong.These vehicles have a complicated
    emmision/fuel system. The reason I'm thinking that may be your problem is It happened to me.When I put in a new fuel pump,I didn't notice that hose and it broke off.I thought it would not make any difference being that everything else was
    right and the least it could do was just give the tank a little air.That is when I learned it has to be hooked up.I bought a repair manual and learned a great deal of info from it.I bought a tank from the local salvage yard and it works fine.You say after a while it runs ok. That makes me think you might have more of a leak than
    the hose off all together. I advise you have someone check your system to allieviate
    any maybe's or if's. I don't think it's injectors or fuel pressure regulator.Have someone check that everything is connected as it should be.Oh, and one more thing,my hose that went to the cannister was also stopped up. I hope you can
    have your Blazer's purge solinoid and the hose etc... looked at and be saftely on
    the road again. I hope this helps. Good luck. :shades:
  • amandapamandap Member Posts: 2
    thanks so much for the info. Since you mentioned the intake manifold, my husband actually just replaced the gaskets 2 days ago...could that have caused the problem? Besides that I will certainly have what you suggested checked as well. Thanks again!
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