The shop that installs will NOT help with someone elses rebuilt motor if it has problems so beware. If it has to come out for any reason you pay again. Ask about this and then decide. Any rebuild gets new pistons and bearings, crank work, cam/lifters, etc so read the fine print on "as required" or all get them - local shops usually do as good or better cause you live there and they cover their mistakes. Just an opinion.
Is it really smoke or probably steam (old burnt maple syrup smell??). Heater core blew if that so check your coolant reservior now. If dropping and you want a quick fix cause its hot out now, go to the auto store and get a plastic inline connector I believe its 5/8 and 3/4 and all stock them them, remove the heater hoses at the firewall and bypass the core, refill the coolant, off you go.
If really smoke do not drive as tidester said until the cause is determined.
I have a 96 blazer with 207,000 miles on it. The rear end is going out on it and I'm looking for someone to help me fix it for less than $1,000. Any referals would be appreciated.
Junk yard or ebay for $450 complete if yours is really trashed. Most 4wd or transmission shops do the rebuilds so ask in your area - all will quote a price after pulling the cover and inspecting for a small fee. 2wd and 4wd are different widths and also if 4wd you have to match the front diff ration and the code is on the glove box tag. If 2wd you can switch to any ratio and add posi too. Common is 3.42 in all Blazers with 3.73 the other common 4wd one used. 98up switched to rear discs also.
I have found a 14 oz can of r-12 refrigerant i've had in my cellar for a long time. I want to try and recharge the a/c on my 93 s10 blazer. Where is the low pressure valve located? thanks Bill
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I have a 96 blazer as well was just wondering.. i come to a stop sign turn on my blinker and my volt gauge kinda ticks up and down.. is that a sign i need a new alternator?? :confuse: if i turn everything on brights,radio,ac,dope lights,wipers the gauge go's into the red pretty much
Probably - free test at most auto stores. Alt should be putting out over 13.5 V if you have a meter with the engine running. Battery with engine off 12.6v.
I have A 1994 GMCJimmy SLE 4.3 V6 4WD Auto 4 Door VIN#1GKCS13WXR0524030. First I would like to know where the crank sensor is? I have put a new computer in,new TPS sensor in, Also put a new fuel regulator and Injector system in. Getting fuel up to where you check fuel pressour getting 60 lbs then drops to 13 to 14 lbs getting fire It will start when I squirt gas into it then when I stop it stops running Please help :sick:
Running pressure should be 54psi for a CPI injection system. Old TBI was 12 psi so theres your problem - low running pressure so it staves out. CPIs have a pressure reg and 2 lines under the upper intake housing that are a known leakage/problem area but so is the pump. No crank sensor on yours - these older distributers had the sensor and pickup internal to the dist.
I have a 1995 gmc jimmy 4.3. It seems to be a bit sluggish, like it's holding back. I've driven others and mine seems to be odd man out. I've had the cap and rotor changed as well as the plugs. I tried regular and premium gas but no change. Any ideas?
Depends on mileage and your maintainance. Over 100k is full tuneup and 95 are known to have leakly CPI and nut kit but usually have a gas smell or washed intake (internal). Check the posts on CPI. Also any codes or SES light on, check all vac hoses cause these always rot out and follow to the reserviotr in the drivers side fender.
Hi, I dont seem to know the differences between the Chevrolt Blazer and the GMC Jimmy. Can someone point out the differences to me... which is better, mechanically and functional. Are they exactly the same size? They seem the same to me.... please help.. anyone?
Trim and wheels diff but all the running gear is same - Olds is AWD only so stay away from that. 98Up went to dual depowered airbags and added rear discs. The Autotrac option (4th button) allows 4wd on pavement and is in LTs but over 100k miles some have xfer case chatter cause they have clutch packs in them - not sometime most use or need to. 96up went to updated injection system.
A bit old for me but those did not have airbags did they - if not forget adding one - if they did in the steering wheel simple job to get one at the junk yard and install. But if this is an S-10 Blazer not full size thats a 2.8L car motor or a small 2.5L 4 cyl - I would really think twice before getting into one 20 years old unless you work on vehicles cause you will have to alot.
Has your Jimmy had any hot day starting problems since replacing the pickup coil? Now that it is summer my Jimmy symptoms sound a lot like yours. let me know, it has been a 3 year mystery for me...lucky Cannada has only 2 months of hot weather.
i have a 98 jimmy with a 4.3 csefi and it wont start unless I put gas down the air plenum. I have checked all the engine sensors and fuel pressure, had to change crank sensor was bad. what I dont understand is why after I dump fuel down it it will run all day drive it anywhere as long as you dont shut it off and let it sit for more than 30 to 60 sec. if you do it wont start again unless you put fuel or eyther to it. please help its driving me crazy.
Was the fuel pressure a minimum of 60psi with key on engine off tested at the fuel rail test port? There are several articles published on this and that is required to fuel the richer start mode. Running drops to 54psi. Fuel filter been changed also. After this - you also take the air housing off to do this so is the air filter clogged at all. Try unplugging the MAF sensor on startup and see if it starts - clean it with electronic spray or replace if this fixes (larger connector in air housing to the 1" wide metal asssembly).
No not with key off but cranking it was. I cleaned the MAP sensor. what is MAF? Is it on air cleaner housing between the air cleaner and the air pleum?
This is a 98 you said so no MAP - yes thats the MAF there. The small one in the air housing is a temp sensor. Again, 60psi key on engine off for start.
Hi, everyone. As you've probably noticed, we have been trying to refine the discussions into more narrowly focussed topics. Our objective is twofold. We want to make it easier for people seeking specific information about their vehicles to find it easily and without having to wade through hundreds or thousands of postings.
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I own a 2001 gmc jimmy diamond edition,I have a problem with the hvac switch,it usually stuck in the vent position and very rarely does it go to any other position.I have read a recall that a vacum switch is leaking oil and it is getting into the hvac switch.Where would I find this vacum switch.
Believe that its a simply vac line from the T on the drivers side underhood - the line goes from the intake to the reservior in the drivers side fender all 5/32" vac and the hard plastic hose goes to the heater control. Default is vent so trace that one and make sure the rubber line is not rotted out/broken underhood.
There is a 1986 chevy blazer k5 for sale on ebay uk but the seller doesn't seem to know the body type , it appears to have bench seats running length wise in the back is there a chevy silverado blazer suv or is this just a camper top ?
hey i have a blazer like that so i went out oan checked it and i think that its mostly a factory mistake and that the wheel is allowed to turrn to far putting the suspension in a bind, have you ever noticed how easily youre blazer makes a uturn , mine makes a harder turn than my sunfire, I would suggest that if you whant to stop the popping noise grease the front bushings and the tention bar at the rubbers. i think it will help
My 2000 jimmy has 42 psi fuel pressure KOEO,54 psi at idle.Often I have to use starting fluid.It has the spider unit.Where should I start fuel pump or pressure regulator.How do I check the regulator pressure?
So with the pressure tester connected does the pressure jump close to 60 right after turning the key to run (KOEO) then drop as soon as the 2 sec pump prime stops? Requires min of 58-60psi for cold start.
In drive thats correct. Many have a slightly rough idle could be from many things: injectors get buildup of waxy crap from cheap gas, cap/rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter, sensors degraded (O2, MAF, temp, etc), vacuum leak, idle air control valve, clogged air filter, and each has to be looked at. Sorry no easy answer. Can relate to area, mileage, and driving habits.
No! It rarely makes it past 42 psi with KOEO then drops most of the time toward zero.The pressure keeps dropping as soon as the relay kicks off aftr 2 secs.It now will only start on ether an then refuses to stay running.Would this be the injector assy/regulator or fuel pump?I can`t afford to take it in for diag.thanks alot
Here is a pic from Autozone of the fuel system. http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/bc- /6f/0900823d8018bc6f.jsp First is the battery voltage good, fuel filter new, and no fuel leaks in the lines? Need a min of 60psi to start as you have found out. Pump or regulator - pump over $500 and regulator $65. The regulator maintains pressure so a dealer uses a special tester with a valve that they can slowly crank shut and watch. Home mechanics temporarily squeeze the return line off at the flexible plastic section taking care to not damage it and not allowing the pressure to increase above 75psi or line damage may occur. If the pressure does increase the pump is probably good (holds pressure so good pump damper, check valve, and internal tank fuel line connections) and this points to the regulator return pressure spring (or to a leaking diaphram or injector poppet) If pressure does not increase past 60psi the pump is probably bad. After 2 sec the key must be off for 10 sec before it will operate the pump for an additional 2 sec prime.
Thanks for the help. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap/rotor, fuel filter and air filter. Guess that narrows it down. I have 103K on it. Driving habits are all highway averaging 75 MPH. Could it be a timing issue?
Timing is fixed at distributor and adjusted by the computer. Do you ever lose any coolant from the reservior or see any leakage. Lower intakes are a known problem around 90-100k leaking some coolant into the valley so fill that up and watch it.
My 1997 Jimmy has begun to lock and unlock itself after the it has been shut off. There is not a keyless entry on this vehicle and I have checked the fuse as well. I pulled the fuse in an attempt to operate it manually but when I pulled the fuse there was a whirring noise that was coming form under the dash intermittently. Not sure where to begin looking for this problem. Has anyone else experienced this?
today i decided to give my 1997 jimmy a much needed bath. afterwards, my power door locks stopped working . could it be a fuse problem? , switch of some sort ? . im so low on funds and cant afford to be bent over by a dealer or mechanic. any ideas? please help.my neighborhood is not the best and the back tailgate door cannot be locked manually ,so tonight it will remain unlocked while i sleep. this sucks , the last thing my family needs is this right now.
bypotts , my jimmy is now doing the same thing , i have no answers yet but most likely ill take it somewhere tomorrow. i locked the jimmy completely manually came back outside an hour later and it was all unlocked . what a crock huh? , ill write back when i solve this BS.
If 97 they have a known bad ignition switch (actually the connector and module in the column) so see the many posts on that - all power goes thru there.
Comments
M
Yes, this is bad! Smoke means either electrical overloading or mechanical malfunction and where there is smoke there is fire. Get it checked out ASAP.
tidester, host
If really smoke do not drive as tidester said until the cause is determined.
cellar for a long time. I want to try and recharge the a/c
on my 93 s10 blazer. Where is the low pressure valve located?
thanks
Bill
Thanks,
Chintan Talati
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
1983-1985 - 2.8 L LR2 V6, 2-barrel carbureted, 110 hp (82 kW)/148 ft·lbff (201 N·m) (VIN
1986-1993 - 2.8 L LL1 V6, TBI, 125 hp (93 kW)/150 ft·lbff (203 N·m) (VIN R)
and down.. is that a sign i need a new alternator?? :confuse: if i turn everything on brights,radio,ac,dope lights,wipers the gauge go's into the red pretty much
VIN#1GKCS13WXR0524030. First I would like to know where the crank sensor is? I have put a new computer in,new TPS sensor in, Also put a new fuel regulator and Injector system in. Getting fuel up to where you check fuel pressour getting 60 lbs then drops to 13 to 14 lbs getting fire It will start when I squirt gas into it then when I stop it stops running Please help :sick:
I dont seem to know the differences between the Chevrolt Blazer and the GMC Jimmy. Can someone point out the differences to me... which is better, mechanically and functional. Are they exactly the same size? They seem the same to me.... please help.. anyone?
Thanks Hector
Steve, Host
But if this is an S-10 Blazer not full size thats a 2.8L car motor or a small 2.5L 4 cyl - I would really think twice before getting into one 20 years old unless you work on vehicles cause you will have to alot.
To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.
You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.
To add a discussion, click on the last link in the "You are here" line at the top of this page. That will take you to the topic page for this make/model. Review the list of topics and click on the "Add discussion" link when you've decided what topic you'd like to add. Follow the directions and you're done! Feel free to add more than one. Just avoid duplicating existing topics and try not to make it TOO specific!
Your help and continued participation in the Forums is greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Thanks
Paul
nathan10 tech
Is that where they should be?
Kirk
http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/bc- /6f/0900823d8018bc6f.jsp
First is the battery voltage good, fuel filter new, and no fuel leaks in the lines? Need a min of 60psi to start as you have found out. Pump or regulator - pump over $500 and regulator $65. The regulator maintains pressure so a dealer uses a special tester with a valve that they can slowly crank shut and watch. Home mechanics temporarily squeeze the return line off at the flexible plastic section taking care to not damage it and not allowing the pressure to increase above 75psi or line damage may occur. If the pressure does increase the pump is probably good (holds pressure so good pump damper, check valve, and internal tank fuel line connections) and this points to the regulator return pressure spring (or to a leaking diaphram or injector poppet) If pressure does not increase past 60psi the pump is probably bad. After 2 sec the key must be off for 10 sec before it will operate the pump for an additional 2 sec prime.