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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Please e-mail me at ......

    Please keep the discussion here so everyone benefits. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of a message board which is to share information, views and opinions.

    tidester, host
  • r31687r31687 Posts: 4
    its the injectors cleaning doesnt work u have to replace
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    "General Motors quietly ended production at its Linden, New Jersey, assembly plant, the last automobile manufacturing facility in the state, this week as it discontinued production of its Chevrolet Blazer and GMC Jimmy."

    Bye-Bye, Blazer…and Jimmy (Inside Line)

    Steve, Host
  • astern1astern1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 GMC Jimmy. Recently I have been getting a squeak out of the rear wheels when the car is cold and I begin driving. It STOPS if I press the breaks lightly. Sometimes the queaking stops quickly. Other times it lasts quite a while. I'd like to have an idea of what this is before I take it to a mechanic. I'd appreciate any advice.
  • robynerobyne Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 4X4 Chevrolet Blazer, k-1500 model with a 8 cyl, 5.7L FI. Last 4 digits on the vin is 5190.

    There is a debate going on and it is with hopes i can get some help finding the real answer. The debate regards whether or not this vechile needs a special GM Lubricant when doing service on the rear differential? Or is a 90w80 penzoil good enough? I think the debate is a debate because some individuals say it needs special lubrication because of itslimited slip differential. Can you help me clear things up? Thanks.
  • I have a 2000 chevy blazer and the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" Light comes on every now and then I just have to live with it but Have you changed the plugs and plug wires recently? well just write me back if you don't care...

    Thanks,
    Jared :confuse:
  • blazzblazz Posts: 1
    How do I get my 2001 blazer to honk if I unlock it or if I lock it. Mine is silent now unless i hit lock twice. I want it to do it when I hit it once.
  • nedsneds Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 4.3 Jimmy. It usually starts fine and runs fine until it warms up, sometimes the problem may not show up for weeks, now it seems to happen constantly. First you notice that although it is running smoothly, when you try to accelerate, there is none. It continues to get worse until it will begin to stall, run really rough, and backfire. When it cools for a while (hours) it seems fine again for a while.
    I have connected a fuel pressure gage and with the key on/ engine off it shows 60psig. Although the pressure did drop off over night, it has held for over an hour this morning. I was able to watch the fuel pressure while the engine was running poorly and it actually went UP a few psig when I opened the throttle as the engine lacked power. I figure this means that the injector is not operating causing the problem.
    I also removed the vane thing on top of the plenum and can see no signs of fuel washing either side clean.

    Any and all help will certainly be appreciated!!

    Thankx,
    Ned
  • mjt1mjt1 Posts: 1
    My 1999 Blazer LE just developed a leaky heater core, which just about got me killed this morning! The vapor clouded the windshield in about three seconds and there was ZERO visibility. At 3:30 a.m. total darkness and oncoming traffic are no joke when you can't see anything but anti-freeze rolling down the inside of the windshield.

    Worst part is, repairs will cost in excess of $1 Thousand Dollars! Entire dash bas to be pulled, air-conditioning system evacuated, and anytime a dasboard has been pulled in my experience there is major trouble afterward! Heater core is installed right behind the upper dash vents! What a dumb design. Does anyone know if there have been any heater core recalls for the 1999 Blazer? This amount of repair cost makes me want to switch to Ford! I'm going to look at Ford trucks this weekend. Screw GM! :sick:
  • mike1330mike1330 Posts: 1
    please help im having the same problem on my 2000 jimmy do you know what they did to fix it
  • tarahtarah Posts: 1
    Hi all,

    Last week as I was driving my 1998 Chevy Blazer, I noticed a strange smell that I assumed was coming from outside. However, as I continued down the freeway, I noticed that smoke was coming from the car. At first I could not locate its origin, but when I looked down, it was coming from the driver's seat!! I immediately pulled over, and looked under the seat, from the back, to notice there was a small fire under the seat. The wind put it out very quickly, but not before the black material covering the wires under the seat had melted unto the carpet (hence the smell).

    I called my local dealership and was told I probably blew a fuse. Call me crazy, but should I have caught on fire from blowing a fuse? :confuse:
    I'm taking the car into the dealership tomorrow, but I'm totally afraid this is going to cost me big bucks! I had to take it in a few months ago because the wipers stopped working in the middle of a huge rain storm! I overheard the service people saying that there was a recall on the parts, but I did not qualify because I bought my car used, I'm thinking I might be in for it again. Has anyone had anything like this happen to them? HELP!! :confuse:
    And also, could someone explain why recall status does not apply to me because the car had a previous owner?
    Thanks
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    And also, could someone explain why recall status does not apply to me because the car had a previous owner?

    Recalls follow the vehicle (using the VIN); it shouldn't make any difference who the owner is.

    A Quick Guide to Recalls

    If it's truly a recall and not a TSB or simply a known issue, escalate the issue to GM or your local consumer affairs office or the NHTSA. Check the Maintenance Guide link in the article above to see if there is a recall that applies to your problem.

    Steve, Host
  • dooleeydooleey Posts: 4
    Hey the problem with the lights is dome overide u need to press it about 7 times maybe less with the switch on A or all the way to the left u will hear a charm and then you are good to go
  • jmm0254jmm0254 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 GMC Jimmy with a Vortec engine (6 cyl). Just today it stalled at a stop light. After that it has stalled several times and the idle is rough. I sometimes have to apply more accelaration when coming to a stop to keep it running. I also noticed that the power brakes fail when this happens. I am sure this is becuse the idle is so low. If I keep the idle up when stopping, the brakes are fine.

    I was told that it may be the Idle Air Controller. I have tried to locate it but can't. I do have a Haynes repair manual for this vehicle, but no where does it show it.

    Curious if this would be your diagnosis also. I am wondering if you could direct me to its' location and also if it can be cleaned or only replaced.

    Thanks

    [email protected]
  • y2kdocy2kdoc Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 jimmy four wheel drive. The car seems to roar real loud as I drive it and the car is sucking twice as much gas than normal. The button shows 2 Hi but is it possible that it is stuck in 4 Hi for when I change it there does not seem to be any difference.
  • y2kdocy2kdoc Posts: 3
    your brakes most likely they have a sensor sometimes for the warning have a place that does free brake inspections, but when you do see if you can wonder out to the garage yourself to see them so you want have a bunch of crap told tou you.
  • 96sle96sle Posts: 1
    4.3L Manufactured 3/96.Getting harder to start when cold. Use to be successful by turning key to run position several times, listening for fuel pump to run and click off indicating fuel line is pressurized then turning key to ignition position. Recently it would only start (cold) after many cranks with a 420 amp boost/charger attached. Re-starts OK after it has been running. Engine runs OK (smooth) after finally starting Fuel squirts from schrader valve behind throttle body when center is pressed but I do not have a practical means to measure pressure. Replaced fuel filter yesterday and it did not help the starting problem. Would not start cold this am using old procedure. Tried adding fuel to throttle body and it started immediately. Have a Haynes 24071 manual for '94 thru '96 but it does not seem cover '96 very well. I assume I have a CMFI or CSEFI system but pictures in manual do not match - is that because California has a unique configuration? Next I am going to try adding FI cleaner to the gas tank. Would appreciate any suggestions.

    Regards,

    96SLE
  • 86jimmy86jimmy Posts: 3
    I own an 86 jimmy for a while it has been running a little rough(I suspect a clogged injector)before I get ahead of myself its a 2.8 throttlebody.I sent it to the bodyshop to blow in a few rust spots and change the front body mounts.It sat for a month there now the wierdest thing is happening...I go to put in reverse the idol races up I put it back in park the idol goes down.I look at the throttle body and nothing moves..any gear I put it in the idol just races untill I put it back in park...Anyone know what this is?
    thx
  • 86jimmy86jimmy Posts: 3
    When I left the bodyshop it wasnt doing it(as I know) and the motor was still cold
  • mamarabmamarab Posts: 1
    We purchased a 1996 Blazer for our son. Thank God, he was not driving the vehicle tonight. It caught fire parked in the driveway. The fire apparently started in the drivers door around the area of the controls for the side mirror. The fire was so intense, the rear view mirror melted, the windshield broke, and the side mirror is hanging off the vehicle. The dash, drivers door, headliner, seats, etc are completely destroyed. Why would this happen? If you have this type of vehicle, please take extra precautions!!!!
  • Did anyone ever figure out what this is? Roughly the same thing minus the speedometer is happening in my 96 Jimmy.

    Its a thing of once its good and warmed up (driving more than 10 miles) and you stop and then start to go and make a turn..the ABS light comes on and its like you have it neutral instead of drive. If you downshift to 2nd you can go. Once you turn it off and park and let it cool off the light is gone and it drives normally.
  • 86jimmy86jimmy Posts: 3
    As for my problem with the 86 jimmy I figured it out it was the throttle position sensor(TPS) hope this helps someone else :shades:
  • eli98eli98 Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Chevy S-10 Blazer with a 4.3L V6 VORTEC. The SES light has come on and it is idling rough. Could it be my EGR valve that has gone out? I am also having trouble with my brakes. I have to literally stand on them to get the pedal to budge. My wife took it to a mechanic and they adjusted the idle, so now it is idling at 3000rpms but the brakes work. What do I have to do to adjust the idle back down? I am at a loss, any input would be greatly appreciated. :sick:
  • Hi I just bought a 2002 Blazer and the morning after I brought it home.
    I started it up and when I started to drive away I noticed a roaring in the engine & there was no pep in the truck. After the truck warms up everything is fine. The Dealer said that this was normal, Blazers do that....He also said that his 2004 trailBlazer does the same thing.
    Now for my Question,,,,,, Is this Guy on the level with me or is this a known problem. :confuse:
  • mich1mich1 Posts: 1
    Is this car reliable? No - read the postings.
    How is the gas mileage? Second Mortgage, I've recently heard that the larger SUV's are easier on fuel.
    What's the fair market value? GM is practically giving them away. Buy new. That way if anything goes wrong you have the warranty to fall back on.
    Is there any common problems I should look for? Please do your research before buying. This is not a cheap vehicle to fix.
    How does it handle in the winter? Hmmm, in the snow... imagine a crazy carpet with wheels.
  • cjn1111cjn1111 Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Jimmy and It will shift to second but will not shift to a higher gear. Can anyone shed some light on this problem
  • timbemistimbemis Posts: 6
    I too have the exact same issue man only difference is i own a 96 blazer it can go through reverse 1st and 2nd but no higher? Anybody?
    I just have the strange feeling this is a common problem.
  • timbemistimbemis Posts: 6
    Well i Didn't see a answer either so I dropped mine off at the local transmission shop today.
    They are charging me $325.00 just to pull it out and tell me from there what is wrong with it.
    I'll keep you posted bud of what they found and how much it was to fix.
  • timbemistimbemis Posts: 6
    Ok heres the bad news there is internal damage to this transmission.
    Aamco transmission is rebuilding it for a flat fee of 1295.00 thats labor and parts.
  • nyblazernyblazer Posts: 2
    I have the roar too. I see no problem with it It seems to be coming from the air intake. After about a block or so, it mellows out. Dealers will tell you its normal... The fact is that if it did it on a new blazer, it would be in service and repaired or I'd sue the dealer! Something tells me that its the heat riser, but im not even sure the truck has one! And yes, there is no pep during this interval.
  • Hey,I have a 2000 chevrolet blazer and every morning when I get up to go to work my blazer does the same thing so yes it is normal and yes your dealer is on the right track...

    I hope this helps,
    Jared :shades:
  • turbo5turbo5 Posts: 2
    when sitting over night and started the following morning, a white puff of smoke comes out of the exhaust. for the next fifteen minutes the engines roars when i accelerate .....(loss of power), the rpms stay normal but it feels like the transmission doesn't want to shift. drives fine other than that except when trying to merge into traffic. Is a problem with the tranny. or is something i'm overlooking
  • timbemistimbemis Posts: 6
    Bad news man the thing is smoked it cost me 2476.00 to have them rebuild it too.
  • timbemistimbemis Posts: 6
    And i have to bring it back beccause the upper transmission line going to the radiator is leeking to the point i can see puddles anywhere i go now.
  • ckercherckercher Posts: 1
    I am unable to open the rear hatch. The solenoid appears to be working because when you press the hatch release button it makes the normal sound. However, the hatch does not open. I removed the inner panel on the tailgate and the latch does not move when the button is pressed. I followed the directions in the owner's manual to "manually" release the hatch, to no avail.

    Any suggestions?
  • geri123geri123 Posts: 1
    well the brakes work on a power assist module that works off your manifold. I had the same thing with the back pressure and the part is easy to replace. Hopefully you have already gotten this fixed by now.
  • qreboundqrebound Posts: 1
    We have been having similar problems, and we ave already diagnosed it (dont have time to read all the posts in this thread, as we are in the middle of a move to florida) and we need to know where the Speed Sensor is located. Thank you for your time.
  • johnny14johnny14 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 blazer and i can put it in fourwheel drive and it all works but the frount hubs want lock. Has anyone had this happen and can tell me what is wrong :cry:
  • frogskinfrogskin Posts: 1
    I'm having the same problem...
    Get this. i bring it in to a transmission shop,,Thinking it might be transmission problems. Right!

    They call me back saying my alternator is fried and can't do proper tests.
    I knew my alternator was in need of a change so I tell them to go ahead (I had no time to get to this so I told myself what the heck).

    They call me saying all is fine and it must of been related to this alternator.
    I pick up the truck and sure enoughas soon as it gets hot my speedo goes out, My abs light turns on and it feels like I only have 2 gears... ?

    Take in consideration that previous to this I had just noticed that my transmission fluid was dangerously low and then I went ahead and over filled it.

    If anybody can help... It would be apreciated.
    I wont spend 1700$ on a transmission. I'll sell the truck as is before anything else, unless I can figure out what the problem is. (when it's cold it runs great)
  • casprtfgcasprtfg Posts: 1
    I also have the roar, I just purchased My 2002 blazer a few days ago and I intend to bring it back to the dealer in a few days to get this checked out. Doesn't seem to me that this would be a normal condition, power loss and loud engine noise? I doubt chevy sent them out of the factory that way, or intended them to in any case.
  • babygusbabygus Posts: 1
    I bought a used blazer last summer. Within 6 months I had to install a new fuel injector. Now the blazer smells like gas fumes all the time, idles fast and acts like it is going to die at any moment. (missing I think). This weekend the alternator died. What could be wrong? I am sure the alternator is not causing all these problems especially with the fumes. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • lomotolomoto Posts: 1
    Hi I HAVE a 2000 model 4 door chevy blazer (a rare sight in England ) it has been running fine with only 25,000 miles on clock..this morning I tried to get it in 4 wheel drive ., the light just flashes and doesnt stop on like it usually will., also in auto 4 wheel drive does the same ..?? drives ok just doesnt seem to want to drop into 4 wheel drive !! please help with any advice as what to look for as no one locally seems to know anything about these fine American vehicles...Thanks for looking :cry:
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Now the blazer smells like gas fumes all the time ...

    I would have my dealer check for fuel leaks ... immediately!

    tidester, host
  • this is somwhat similar to what i experianced when my brothers EGR valve went bad (to much carbon build up)
  • tytintytin Posts: 1
    The roar is caused by the cooling fan also known as the clutch fan. the noise you hear is after sitting for a while or in cold temperatures the clutch does not disengage like it should so the fan spins at the same rpm as the engine causing the loud roaring and excess strain on the engine. after a few minutes when the engine heats up or the truck starts moving some the clutch will release and allow the fan to spin at a lower rpm like it should be Hope The Helps
  • migomigo Posts: 3
    in addition have replaced fuel filters and injecters were cleaned
  • migomigo Posts: 3
    93 blazer 200+k mi 4.3 vortec w.....usually starts in the morning outside temps below 80 my problem is when i leave it out in the parking lot at work fully exposed to sun temps exceeding 80 (nashville tn) the engine cranks but won't fire getting spark to plug replaced distr cap and rotor ignition mod. fuel filters and cleaned injectors

    any help or ideas??????????
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Browse the posts over in "No Start" Problems too.

    Steve, Host
  • eli98eli98 Posts: 3
    my blazer still isn't running. It is parked in my garage. What module do i need to replace. I have been told that it might be the brake booster or a cracked manifold but I still have not gotten a definate answer, your input would be greately appreciated
  • I had same problem around 1.5 years ago with my 1999 blazer. The 2/4WDR switch needs to be changed. $700 dollars to get it fixed in MN USA. My Blazer had around 36,000 miles that time.
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