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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy



  • I have a 2000 blazer it's a ls 2wd.We've only put 9000 miles on it.I have taken it to the dealer to many times for this every time they say it's a bad pcv valve.Plus my front end pops.I've owned chevys b4 and I've never had any problems.Last month I bought a 2001 Montero sport and I feel alot better.I will probably trade the blazer this year for a 4runner.
  • I have a 1995 Blazer LT. Loaded her up at the time. Most unreliable brakes I have ever experienced. Electrical system also bad. Have 50,000 miles on mint condition and already ordered another SUV. I would never normally purchase another car within 5 years, especially with this low mileage and MINT condition. BUT...It's garbage. Braking is completely unreliable and has had two recalls. If you hit just a slight dip...pebble...bump while applying hear the anti-lock kick in...and Pedal hits the floor...and no more brakes. It turns the casual stop into an adrenaline rush. The minute the tires sense a little different road surface...look out!. Still happens after two recalls. OPERATE AS DESIGNED is all they keep saying. Designed to hit another car...maybe. It's stupid and Chevy knows it! I no longer trust American made cars.

    In addition...have you seen the crash tests? Pleeze! Put some pressure on Chevy to redesign this 'death trap' body style. Chevy has lost its edge in the SUV market...big time! Too bad too. Don't buy one... Admittedly they've got some neat bells and whistles...but it's only mirage.
  • I have a 93 S-10 4WD Blazer. Purchased used at 75K. Within 3 months the intake manifold gasket had to be replaced and it has been a downhill slide ever since. Alternator, distributor, ignition control module, ignition coil, MAP sensor, EGR valve, etc. In January of this year, with snow on the ground, I discovered that it would not go into 4WD. Dealership said the 4WD control module was bad & it would cost $400+ to fix. I said I could live without it. Recently it began once again (a recurring problem) not wanting to start, or dying while driving or at idle (trust me, it wasn't picky).Took it to dealership again. Came back to find that they had charged me $102 to change the fuel filter and run cleaner thru the fuel injectors, said if that didnt fix it, it might be the starter & that would be $260+. It died in the parking lot at work that evening. Fed up with the dealership, took to another mechanic. Replaced starter. Truck would start, but again, die while driving or at idle. In tracking the wiring, he discovered that a sensor wire had been pinched in a bolt on the intake manifold and had worn and was shorting. Didn't fix the running problem, but fixed the 4WD! Not finding anything obviously wrong, he has now removed the security system, replaced the ignition control module and pick-up line (which wasn't replaced when the dealership replaced the ign control module) and thinks that may fix it. Any ideas? Any recourse as all these things seem somewhat related and the dealership has screwed up more than they have fixed. Similar problems? If I ever get it running I might drive it off a cliff. If not, I'll just push it!
  • mom25mom25 Posts: 1
    I need to trade in my 1993 Explorer. Only 60,000 miles but many problems. I've been the only owner for 8 years. Just looked at a 1998 Jimmy SLT with 37,800 miles. Seems nice and clean. Dealer wants $16,500. Is this a good buy? Anything special I need to know about this car? Thanks! I need a very reliable vehicle.
  • I have a 1994 GMC Jimmy 4wd SLE with 183k miles. It has been in the shop 4 times in the last 2 weeks for the same problem. The SES light comes on and the idle becomes very rough. When this happens you lose the power brakes. Each time there has been carbon build up in the EGR valve. My current mechanic, whom I have been using for 11 years, told me there was carbon build up, they cleaned it and the truck ran fine for about 100 miles and started again. Took the truck back and they cleaned it again. We left for vacation the next day it happened again. I called my mechanic and he said to take it to a GMC dealership, and he would reimburse me for all costs. The dealership replaced the EGR valve and the computer. Drove the truck for about 150 miles and it happened again, took it back to the dealership and they cleaned the EGR valve. On they way home, we made it about 700 miles and it started happening again. The truck is now sitting on the carport waiting for AAA to take to the local dealership to have the warranty work done. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this continues to happen? By the way, the did clean the fuel injectors twice in the last 2 weeks. I really love my truck, but can't continue to have to take it to the shop every 100 or so miles. I would purchase another GMC truck in a heart beat since this is the only real problem I have had with the truck.
  • ang7ang7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jimmy that hasn't had any problems. But, it sometimes makes a banging noise that sounds like it is coming from the transmission. It shifts very smoothly when accelerating, but if I let off the gas while building rpm it will bang. For example, if I'm accelerating in 2nd or 3rd gear and the person in front of me puts the brakes on I'll let up on the gas to apply the brakes and it will bang. The service tech. at the dealership said he didn't know what it was but it could be the torque converter. Could that be the answer?
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Posts: 6
    I was thinking of putting together a petition towards a recall of the oil cooling lines, since it seems so many have had this problem. I have created an email address: I would like to get one-hundred (100) emails first showing interest in this before I formulate and pass one around. If interested, please send just a short email to that address.

    Brandon Morgan
  • After 25 yrs. of Japanese vehicles, my husband convinced me to "Buy American." So bought a brand new fully loaded 1996 GMC Jimmy SLT. It worked pretty well for about 25,000 miles. Service engine soon light would come on periodically. The manual referenced "emissions", so basically ignored it as it would usually go off in a day or two. Well, put $2000 transmission in at 45,000 miles. New thermostat and fan belt around 50,000 miles. The fuel pump ($650) went out at 51,000 miles in rush hour traffic on a busy interstate. That was real fun!!! Recently had the windshield washer problem someone else mentioned. New wiper motor, but also found rear differential leaking so that was corrected at the same time. Recently moved from Washington to Montana in winter snowstorm over three mountain passes. The four-wheel drive worked over the first pass. Took it into the dealer in MT and they said it needs a new "encoder" - $345 just for the part.

    Can someone tell me if there is any hope of a recall on the encoder problem? Another message referenced other people having problems with the 4WD.

    I can't get rid of this vehicle soon enough. Buy American again? Maybe, but not Chevy or GMC.
  • kiki4512kiki4512 Posts: 1
    My husband was recently in a rollover accident in a 96 Chevy Blazer The police report states that he went end over end 1 1/2 times and then continued to roll 6 more times before coming to a rest. It is a wonder to me how he lived! He walked away from the accident with only a scrape on his head. I am grateful that we choose the Blazer and am Now looking at the newer Blazer.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Wow, scary. Glad he's ok. I assume he was wearing his seat belt? What happened anyway (or does he remember)?

    Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
  • vossrlvossrl Posts: 3
    Leak is coming from the seals between that casting you are looking at (connection for remote mounted filter) and the block. With age and heat the seals get hard and then leak. Good thing is they are cheap to buy at your Chevy dealer. Bad thing is they are hard to replace. Two bolts hold the thing in place and are not hard to get out. getting your hand up there to replace seals and reinstall is tough. I think I had to drop the front drive shaft to get my back in place.
  • vossrlvossrl Posts: 3
    I struggled for a long time with my 92 Blazer with Throttle body injection (Z code engine). Rough idle, surging at low throttle settings, stumble under initial acceleration. Diagnosing the SES codes led to EGR valve. I cleaned then replaced the EGR. Turned out the problem was bad throttle position sensor on side of throttle body - tricks computer into misreading throttle setting and misreading exhaust gas condition. Changed it and all was well.
  • vossrlvossrl Posts: 3
    With 182K miles, I just parked and put a "for sale" sign in window of my 92 Blazer 4dr Sport. Put on lots of miles with no major problems. Normal replacement stuff like shocks, exhaust, lots of brake pads. Other stuff that others have mentioned - crossmember bushings, EGR "gremlins", heater core. The thing always started and ran strong. Always sure-footed in the snow here in northern IL. BTW, put at least 50k miles on Michelin XC LT4's and have agood 10K left - great tires. Just bought 2000 Diamond Edition Jimmy with 5000 miles (guy traded for a new Envoy) and look forward to many more happy GM SUV years.
  • bmorgan5bmorgan5 Posts: 6
    I am going to repost this. I didn't get much of a response. I guess I need to post this in other message boards. If anyone would like to pass this on to other boards, please feel free. The email address is there and I have received a few responses, but not like I had hoped.

    Original message:
    I was thinking of putting together a petition towards a recall of the oil cooling lines, since it seems so many have had this problem. I have created an email address: I would like to get one-hundred (100) emails first showing interest in this before I formulate and pass one around. If interested, please send just a short email to that address.


    Brandon Morgan
    '95 Jimmy
  • jimnovajimnova Posts: 1
    Only 40 miles to the house and the Service Engine light appears for the fist time in my 6 years of ownership. After the semi-tempory hypnotic shock wore off... the problems began. The gauges all checked out good, but the idling became erratic with a touch of the old typical loss of power. I manage to creep into the driveway.

    The mechanic told me that the EGR valve needs to be replaced, ok. fine. Then he hands me the estimate. $400+ to replace and install (oh and this included the system check for $78.00 what a deal...NOT). Not today, I told him and had him slap it back together. I wanted a second opinion before jumping into the EGR nightmare that seems common in the Jimmy and Blazer models. I drove away and the SES light was off, nice. The vehicle was running good and everthing seemed o.k.

    Well, it has been driven 400 miles since then and everythings appears to be fine. My guess is that the mechanic in the process of taking out the EGR valve nocked out some build up or something. He then reset the computer and presto, wamo good as new. I still feel sceptical though and wonder if this is just a tempory fix (it probably is who are we trying to kid here). Anyways I just thought I add this to the lists of SES and EGR stories and chalk this one up for the good guys (that if there is a good side). The Jimmy has been good to me other than this. With 137,000 miles it still strong and has alot left to offer, I hope. Hang tuff everyone and don't let the man get ya down...peace out.
  • My wife and I purchased a 1998 Blazer LT with only 26,000 on it in October of 2000. I am very impressed with the ride and handle of this truck. It rides just as nice as my parents Cadillac Eldorado.
  • I took my 1998 Blazer LT into the dealership to get a routine oil change, replace the master control window unit switch (pre-ordered) and to check the security light that periodically came on. I dropped my car off at 7:00AM and this is where the adventure begins. At 1:30PM I got a call from the service manager and he told me that the ignition switch was bad. It was causing the security light to come on. I told him to go ahead and fix it, and I would be in later to pick up the truck. My wife and I purchased an extended warranty. The warranty sat on finance departments desk for a months and was never sent in to the main office. Oh, I forgot to mention that this dealership changes finance managers as often as the sun goes up and down. They have changed personel five times in that department since October of 2000, when we bought the truck. So know one knows what the **** the other person that left has done. As we were getting that extended warranty contract straightened out, the dealership would not honor the price we purchased the warranty for.(We had the contract and the receipt.) They wanted us to pay $400 more dollars or take a lower warranty for the price we paid. Even the General Manager would not honor what his dealership had in writing. This dealership is owned by AUTONATION, and after I asked for the phone number for the district office my contract suddenly appeared. Everyone apologized, but I was so mad I did not care to even talk to anyone at the dealership. THREE hours later and almost blowing my top, I had the contract that I paid for. Oh by the way, I did call the district office and talked to the office of the district VP. They were very apologetic and said they would take CARE of this bad service at this dealership.
  • So what you are really saying is Horizon Chevrolet needs to take some customer satisfaction training at their near-by Lexus dealer??? *lol*

    That's really BAD service... my Olds dealer for my '97 Bravada has been much better... maybe it is time for a different dealer?
  • hankjkhankjk Posts: 4
    I just purchased a new jimmy & was offered an extended warranty for 6 yrs for $1200 Is this the going rate or can I negotiate a much better price from gm? Where can I get some info on warranty prices & different ones available thru some 3 party or am I better off sticking with the gm plan if I can get a better deal? Any advice on weather or not to take an extended warranty would be appreciated (this is my first 4wd)
  • keith24keith24 Posts: 93
    oil cooler lines fail? My wife's '98 Blazer gave up the ghost yesterday. Luckily, we didn't run it dry of oil. It just leaked all over the driveway. I crawled up under it to find the source of the leak, and deduced that it was the metal (?) portion of the high-pressure oil cooler line. Looks like it had burst right at the seam. When we started it up, I could see where the seam gave way.

    Why did this happen? I keep a close eye on the oil pressure & everything, and it never got crazy high. Hopefully, it was just a defective high-pressure hose. Otherwise, Mr. Chevrolet's going to have to give me a heckuva good reason to keep it. Thankfully, its still under warranty.
  • rich105rich105 Posts: 1
    I own a used 1996 GMC Jimmy SLE 4-door. I've got 86,000 miles on it and it holds up very well. My only problem is that the A/C is beginning to fail and I recently had the tension pulley replaced (I'm glad it came off in the parking lot instead of the highway).

    A friend of mine has a Jimmy similar to my own but he's having problems with leaking oil, steering column and his radiator. I encouraged him to use Havoline antifreeze instead of Dex-Cool and take it to the dealer for the steering and oil leaks. I agree with the others posting their views about brown coolant; if I see chunks of gunk in my radiator I'd be worried, too. So far with the Havoline coolant the ruck runs cool and the coolant hasn't changed color on me.

    I take my truck on cross-country trips and I'd like to offer this bit of advice, use 87 octane! Not because it's cheap but it can stretch your mileage. I made the mistake of putting in 89 octane and found myself running the tank empty after 250 miles of mixed driving. With 87 octaine I can get nearly 350 miles average one one tank.
  • HANK: For a sample of warranty pricing, check out this site:

    For my '97 Bravada, I paid $1100 for 6 yr. 60,000 mile warranty. I've recouped all of my investment, and now am reaping the benefits, although I would rather not visit the dealership too often. Warranty items: alternator (squeaky), belt tensioner (squeaky), oil cooler lines (on my 3rd set - leaks at fittings!), rear hatch struts (weak), trans. dipstick & tube (rusted), upper/lower ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm (all worn), driver's door hinge pins/bushings (knocks over bumps), gage cluster (speedometer ticks), rear wiper motor (quit), rear washer (not connected), rear axle bearings (whine @ 50 mph), and shifter (loose button). I was surprised most by the front end work required at 46K, and the stupid, wimpy oil cooler line design that can't stay leak-free. I think my next set will be custom-fabricated by a race shop with more durable fittings. If someone was enterprising, they would create an aftermarket custom oil lines to rid the S-truck owners of this horrid design.

    keith24: see my oil cooler line story above.

    rich104: gee, another oil cooler line story? *lol* But seriously, as I've stated before, I run Dexcool (wait, it may be Prestone Long-Life) but I abide by a 2-3 year change interval.

    Steering leaks? Where? Oh no, another trouble spot...?

    I run 87 octane, and I can get 21 mpg if I keep it at 65-70 mph on a level highway, according to my last trip log.

  • Found this link about Dexcool and whether it is linked to contamination in the cooling system. Have you checked your radiator cap lately?

    This link found at:

  • jmaxejmaxe Posts: 198
    Overheating dimmer switch?
    I have a 2000 Jimmy with 15k and am very happy so far. But I recently noticed while driving at night that the dimmer control for the dashboard lights is so hot that it nearly burns my fingers when I touch it. This surely isn't right. Anyone else notice this on your Jimmy/Blazer?
  • badgerpaulbadgerpaul Posts: 219
    I've noticed it on my '99 Blazer. But then that's what it's designed to do.
  • I'm a reporter working on a story about the recent Ford Explorer and mid-sized GM SUV recalls. I'm looking for an owner of one of those vehicles to interview for a story. Please send e-mail to if you are interested.

  • A word of warning to anyone who lives in upstate South Carolina: DO NOT buy from, or have your SUV or any other GM vehicle serviced by, Dick Brooks Chevrolet Oldsmobile Cadillac in Anderson. I had a situation where they outsourced a rear end repair that they originally misdiagnosed to a transmission shop, claiming they didn't have a qualified tech to do the work (not sure how they would've handled this if it had been a factory warranty repair that they can't outsource). Despite their having done the outsourcing, when issues came up (e.g. expediting parts for their "partner", the transmission joint), they washed their hands of the entire deal, saying that they had "closed their work order" and it was an XXX Transmission issue now. They refused to support me in dealing with Warrantech, a third party extended warranty company which you also want to avoid at all costs. Long story short, I haven't seen my 1996 Blazer LT in twenty days. For what it's worth, this is the second drive train problem in a month, we've had major air conditioning problems, and, oh, I'm out of breath...Don't go to Dick Brooks unless you already had plans to go postal. They care nothing about the customer and offer a lack of service with smirk.
  • lsdiamantelsdiamante Posts: 2
    I was going to buy a 2001 Chevy Blazer Xtreme until i heard from a guy that works at a dealer that they are already discontinuing them. Is this true? Please reply by email as i am not in the town hall very often at all
  • What was the transmission problem? Just had my '97 Bravada at the dealer for replacement of the valve body to fix a common problem with slamming from gear-to-gear during upshifts.
  • wallygatorwallygator Posts: 1
    Well, I would like some advice as to where I could take my 96 Jimmy for a little paint job since there are numerous little nicks and spots on my hood and along the bottom edge of the car. All I really want is to cover up those little spots in my red paint. Anyone know the best place to get it done? Thanx.
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