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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy



  • ryr28ryr28 Posts: 1
    I'm experiencing the same problem on a 1990 blazer with 4.3 have replaced a whole lot of stuff. Was wondering what happened in your case?
  • jroc12345jroc12345 Posts: 1
    my 99 chevy blazer turns on but has the battery signal and abs light on. also says im not wearing a seat belt when i really am. and read gas is empty when its not. does ne 1 know what is going on with it
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    How old is your battery and how hot is it where you are? May as rule the easy fix out first; try having it tested at your local auto parts store.

    Steve, Host
  • fasfanfasfan Posts: 3
    I had the exact same problem with my 94 blazer. I had been having problems with the EGR and had replaced that. But still had the problem. When the temperature and engine were hot it wouldn't start. It would start with starting fluid, but as soon as that was gone it would die. So it wasn't getting fuel. I was told it might be a vapor lock and to loosen my gas cap. I had no gas cap. I traded it in before I found out what was wrong. Seemed too expensive to fix. I am curious as to what was wrong though.
    Sorry I wasn't more help. All I know is mine wasn't getting fuel when hot.
  • migomigo Posts: 3
    it would seem that the pick coil was the culprit since it was the only thing still original left
    fuel pump ok injectors were cleaned fuel filters were replaced as were the distr cap & rotor
  • rebartrebart Posts: 1
    My 2000 GMC Jimmy is making a loud noise that is coming from either the front end or transmission areas. The noise increases in pitch as the vehicle goes faster. It does not seemed to be tied to to engine rpm's since the noise pitch continued to increase even as the rpm's decrease. It almost seems as if the 4 wheel drive is engaged without the wheel hubs locked .. What might this be ???
  • nomogmnomogm Posts: 4
    I have had two experiences with my 1999 GMC Jimmy SLE 4X4 self engaging the 4 wheel drive at highway Speeds (70-MPH). The local and one other GM dealer claim it is caused by a defective Vacuum control valve on top of the transfer case. I have replaced the valve twice, the first was stuck-the second was not. The second failure damaged the Sliding shift collar on the R/F Axle. I would like to find a diagnostic procedure to confirm whether the transfer case electronic shift control module (in the transfer case) is faulty or if it is the electronic control module in the right kick panel. Any one else had similar experiences. I have read several post that describe the same condition and haven't been fully diagnosed as yet. When you find out what is the root cause let me know. Thanks
  • My parking brake light stays on even though the brake is not engaged... I have to press down further, not necessarily harder, on the regular brakes before they do anything... and my turn signals worked intermittently for a few days and now don't work at all....

    Any thoughts or suggestions???
  • rizyanrizyan Posts: 1
    I found a 2000 2wd LT blazer. It has 63k miles, garage kept, tires with less than 10k miles on them, etc. Heres the catch though, it has a rebuilt transmission. At first I didnt really think much of it, but when I told my Dad about it, that immediatly threw a red flag up in his mind. He said that it should of not needed to be rebuilt that early and that either 1. he abused the blazer or 2. he did some serious towing with it. How concerned should I be about this and how could it effect me later if I do buy this car? The guy is asking 8500 for it, my Dad said he'd offer 1000 less due to the rebuilt trans. Thanks
  • 264jcs264jcs Posts: 1
    i need to get to the back speakers on my 95 blazer, its a 2door, does anyone know how to do it?
  • why is it so hard to find a GMC Jimmy ST?? are they really rare or something?? someone plz tell me!
  • Anybody have a clue of what happened here? The other day I go to start the car, it starts fine, but immediately a wisp of awful smelling electrical smoke comes out of the steering column and from under the hood (near alternator?) It was quick -- the smoke was gone before I knew it, but now power windows, radio, display and a bunch of other electrical is dead. Fuses for these circuits are fine. The turn signals still work. Car starts & runs. I took of the column shrouds & didn't see anything burned. What am I missing? :sick:
  • Hello, I have a 1976 Cheyenne Blazer, and I am wondering how much it might be worth?
    Here is what it has...
    New 350 crate motor w/Edelbrock intake and 650 4-barrel
    dual exhaust
    new carpet
    minor body rust
    4 speed manual

    I was told that it has a cast iron t-case, and it is extremely rare. Is this true, or was this guy blowing smoke?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    TMV new car prices, used car pricing, used car values at Edmunds may be helpful - give it a try!

    tidester, host
  • That site only goes back to 1980. I have a 1976. Would $4000 be too high?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I was going to send you to Kelley Blue Book ( but I discovered they only go back to 1985! I did a "private party" search for an S-10 (4 cyl., 2.5 L, auto trans.) with 140,000 miles and it came back at about $1,000. Of course, it all depends on location, mileage, condition, style, engine, options etc. so it's not definitive.

    tidester, host
  • I have a 97 Jimmy and I just developed a similar problem however my interior lights are staying on even when the doors are shut and the engine is running. I believe that they might be tied in.

    I was not able to see if anybody replied to you with a logical answer so let me know if you corrected the problem and what to look for.

  • Hey I was Wondering if you fixed this Problem, Because this just happed to me last nite. Thanks for your help.
  • Have a 99 with the same brake problem. Dealer wants to play "pick a part/replace a part" with no guarantees. Local mechanic stumped. Any luck with a fix?
  • Try maybe Crankshaft Position Sensor....
  • Wow, I am having the biggest problem with my 95 chevy blazer, i bought the car with worn tires on the sides, fixed the idler arm, fixed the upper and lower balljoints on the right side and the ball bearing assembly on the right side. Then i got new tires, i brought the car today to the mechanic to get a simple alignment and he told me that the left upper and lower balljoints are bad, Ha a simple lie or is it? last time he told me it was the right upper and lower balljoints so i got them fixed and when i went to get an alignment he said the left is bad. Whats up with that? and also another question.... Everytime i turn my wheel all the way to the right to make a u-turn or all the way to the left, I hear a loud PoP, PoP, Pop, Thud i dont know how to explain, whats going on? Someone please help so i can get the suspension part over with? Please ??? :cry: :confuse: :(
  • jayd1jayd1 Posts: 1
    You know how when you turn you air system from a/c to just blow regular air it will make a "pushhhhhh" sound for about 2 or 3 seconds and then stop. Well when I switch from a/c to regular air the "pushhhhhh" sound doesn't stop. Almost sounds like air is leaking up in the dash or something but it only makes this sound when you are blowing normal or heated air. It doesn't make the sound when the a/c is running. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks for all the help.
  • I have a 95 Jimmy that I was given to use and it hesitates when it accelerates, most noticeably at slower speeds and slower acceleration. Also, after it has been running a while and, say, I shut it off to go inside a store and then come out 15 minutes later and start it up, it will stall out after a few seconds of running at normal rpms. Then I usually needs to wait up to 30 minutes before it is ready to go again.

    The fuel pump was recently (<6 mos) replaced and a mechanic suggested that the problem was related to a fuel regulator, which he said was expensive to replace.

    It doesn't feel like a fuel injector issue because I recently experienced that with another car, and my SES light has been coming on and even blinking at times.

    Ideas? Similar experiences? Any idea how much this might cost me?

  • I'v e had my 98 Blazer 6 years and it does the same thing, that is, it starts up sometimes roaring with no pep and is fine when it warms up. Good to know it's just normal and I don't have to expect something to go wrong anytime when I hear it. Thanks for your posting.
  • I just had the same problem on my 01 blazer. The dealer told me it was going to take a while to get it open and would cost me about $170.00 plus parts. I checked on the cost of a new panel and latch and it was going to cost me 224.00 so I desided to do it my self. After breaking the rear panel I found out that if you put a small screw driver in the small hole under the plastic panel up at 11:00 and in about 1 inch there is another lever that will release the glass. after you get the glass open you can get the rear panel off and see the problem. At the end of the selenoid is a plastic piece that breaksit's real easy the replace. If you do it right it will cost you a couple of bucks and about :20 minutes of your time.
  • I have a 2001 Jimmy and for last 2 months my ABS/Brake light has been on. I took it to the mechanic and he cleaned some of my wiring an said I was getting a DTC C0265 or C0266 EBCM Relay Circuit error. That if my light came back on I would have to replace the entire EBCM for a $1000. Guess what my light has come back on, but it comes on sporadically. Sometimes I start the car and its on till I turn it off or sometimes I start the car and drive for awhile and its off, then comes on when i hit a pot hole or something. This leads me to believe that I have a wiring issue and not a broke unit. My question is what exactly is a relay circuit error?
  • Does anyone know the location of the horn relay in a 96 s10 blazer?
  • Hello, I read your question... I also have a 2001 jimmy with only 60k on it... I had it checked and got the run around also... But I did finally found out what was wrong with it... And you will find out the same, That it is something real simple... Your hub & bearing assembly is going bad... When it starts getting warn and sloppy your ABS sensor doesn't send the signals to the EBCM properly... So don't let them take advantage of you just have your hub & bearing assembly replaced... If you look around you can find the assembly you need, new for around $100 to $180 bucks on the internet... But keep in mind it was a GM part that went bad, So I would probally Buy the hub & bearing assembly in more reliable brand like ( TRW, ATLAS, or TIMKIN )... As these are very well known companys with a good reputation on there products... Unlike the GM parts that went bad... I hope this helped you out...

    Sincerly: Kenneth Pearson
  • That doesn't sound right, a heater core is less than $200 at any parts store. Why did they say the A/C system has to be evacuated? It is a completely seperate system. I might get a second opinion.
  • Having gone through two heater cores on my 96 Blazer, I concur with what mjt1 has posted. Both times I had to get the A/C recharged. Chronicjohn is right about the cost of a heater core but it's the labour that kills you, particularly at a dealer. It reached the point where I couldn't get out of my local Chevy dealer for less than a grand for virtually any repair. "Well we had to drop this and that to get at the problem..." I think we all know this whipsong. Things are just too tightly packed in the Blazer/Jimmy design. That (and OBD II) are just a couple of reasons why I am seriously considering buying an older Chevy truck. Something that can actually be worked on.
  • This problem has been getting worse. When the car is cold, it seems to run pretty well. When it warms up, it doesn't behave. Sometimes it doesn't matter how hard i push the gas, the car just sputters and hesitates, like only one of the cylinders is hitting, but then it will just "catch" and then accelerate just fine.

    I hope someone has an idea of what it could be. I'm not ruling out fuel injector(s), but wouldn't the problem be persistant?
  • The windshield washer motor recently stopped working. It appears there is no power going to it. I tested the motor and it runs when powered. I tested the plug and there is no power at the plug, but the turn signal lever does turn on the wipers to wash. The inside fuses are all good. Why isn't there power going to the motor??

  • I am experiancing the exact same problem with my 96 blazer and I still don't have an answer to my question.If you have found a solution to this problem,please reply,because I am pulling my hair out by the roots!
  • I am having problems with my windshield wipers. They work but the problem is when I go to turn them off they will stop at any point on my windshield it wants to (which makes it hard to drive in the Seattle rain) also my rear wiper doesnt work how do i fix these problems
  • paanpaan Posts: 2
    I'm brand-new to forum, so please bear with me.

    I'd like to find out if anyone has done the following:

    1. cold air intake system

    2. headers/exhaust system

    3. computer/chip

    4. Velocity Tuner
    Any info./ help is much appreciated :)
  • I have the same issue.
    Should I replace both front wheel bearings?
  • I am having the same problem with the rear latch on my '00 Blazer. Where exactly is the hole to release the glass?
  • I was having a problem like that with my jimmy and tried and tested everything to fix it. The last thing I did was change the fuel pump and it fixed it. A hose line hooked to the pump was split. It was a chore to get to but it was worth it.
  • I am looking for a picture of the drive line for my 90 jimmy. I am having a problem with it and am not sure just what is wrong with it without a pic. Please help!
  • jon22jon22 Posts: 1
    I've replaced the vacuum actuator on my jimmy, but now when I put it into 4wd hi or lo and move, the rear wheels drag, they turn, but leave skid marks in the driveway, anybody run into this or have any ideas? thanks
  • I have been a mechanic for over 35 years so I have seen a lot of things the dealers will try to do take advantage of the all-important customer.

    I purchased a 1999 GMC Jimmy 4.3 2wd brand new with 5 miles on it and right now it has 72,000 miles and I have only had minor problems with this vehicle after the warranty period.

    The alternator and compressor were replaced three times, but remember when the alternator goes out the dealer will only recharge the battery. Batteries on all GM vehicles will leak on the positive side and will start this procedure of the alternator going out. I finally just replaced the battery the last time the alternator was replaced and everything is working just fine.

    The compressor will go out because the case and the seal starts to leak, so the dealer will just keep replacing the compressor but will never replace the accumulator or the expansion tube to complete the job correctly. They also know about the new style GM compressor available but will not always install it.

    Driver&#146;s side door pins are no big deal, just replace them and everything is fine. I have not seen any ball joint or hub bearing problems with these vehicles at all.

    Dex-Cool antifreeze is not bad but it will not last as recommended, you need to flush the cooling system out completely every 2 years or 24,000 miles. If this is not done and you wait for the 5 years or 100,000 miles, you will have many problems with any vehicle.

    Dealerships are recommending that they should acid flush your cooling system do not have this service done on your vehicle. The acid flush in some cases will do more damage to the vehicles internal parts than expected.

    The biggest problem that I have seen is the heater core will get clogged up and no heat is present, but you can flush the heater core out and at the same time replace all the hoses, the thermostat and the radiator cap, the cap should not be manufactured by GM.

    Lastly, most of the problems that I have seen with all vehicles are that the customers do no want to perform severe-scheduled maintenance. The customer is under the assumption that first it is too costly and second the mechanic is just trying to line his pockets with money and unnecessary work for the vehicle.

    The old sayings that if it&#146;s running don&#146;t mess with it will not work on today&#146;s vehicles. Find a trustworthy mechanic and follow the severe schedule for any vehicle and always ask if there are any technical service bulletins or recalls for your vehicle and get them done.

    Your vehicle will run and last a lot longer than expected and you will see less problems happening. The customers that listen to me have little or no problems with their vehicles and they don&#146;t mind spending that extra money.
  • So do you think that you need to replace fuel pump or just the hose? I purchased a fuel pump but if it is just a hose it would save alot of money. It seems to just stall every once in awhile.
  • I have a 96 blazer 4wd that heat but not enough what would be the problem
  • Oh and i think it is the heat core but not sure and the blower is still blowing and heat comes out but not enough
  • i have a 1995 chevy s10 blazer and my power seats stopped working. does anyone know where i begin to correct the problem.
  • my 4x4 isnt engaging. i have a 1995 S10 chevy blazer and my 4x4 is push button with 4hi 4 low neither is working when i push them they just make a clicking noise then the light remains on. im assuming its an electrical problem by reading other forums and talking to my father hows a mechanic but he overhauls motors and doesnt deal with this thing. so i was hoping someone could help me out. if it is the electronic engagement what should i be expecting to pay to get this problem fixed.
  • how do i adjust my headlights they seem to be pointing downwards hi and low beams
  • I have a 1997 blazer 4x4 that had the same issue. My power door locks as well as my power seat quit working. I replaced the fuse w/ a relay for testing. I tried door locks, seats and all worked fine. When I sat in the driver seat, the relay tripped. I began checking the wiring under the seat and saw nothing apparent. Once I removed the driver's seat I notice the power lumbar support wires that ran between the seat frame and the seat had became raw. I removed the switch, taped up the wiring and re-ran the wires thru the hole in the seat frame (which I believe is where it should have been from the factory) and have not had any problems in over 6 months.
  • If it is like my 93 blazer, there should be a screw to the right or left, and right above the headlight (it might be a torx) and you turn them to adjust the direction. Park like 20 feet away from a wall, so that you can see the beam, and adjust accordingly.
  • you should press eather button when you are in park, then when it is blinking still, shift to reverse or drive and it should work
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