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Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy

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Comments

  • The breather hose on the right side of the engine vents any pressure build-up within the right valve cover to the intake, where the engine can somewhat "reburn" the oil vapor. It primarily a pollution control device. Experience shows most of the oil vapor ends up coating the inside of the intake manifold and throttle body. After experience with the sticking throttle plate, I simply removed the breather hose, plugged the intake grommet (prevents sucking in unfiltered air) and installed a K&N breather element (looks like a mini-air filter) into the grommet on the right hand valve cover. You can't plug the breather hole on the engine, because the excess pressure would cause your valve cover gasket to seep oil, among other things. The breather element captures the oil vapor within the cottom gauze, while allowing adequate pressure release. I clean the element once a year with K&N cleaner and re-oil, just like you do with their aftermarket air filters. You can buy a K&N breather at a performance auto parts store that sells K&N products. You just need to know what size the valve cover grommet diameter is (don't recall) and whether you want it with black or chrome caps. A breather was commonplace on factory engines up to the early 70s, until the emission laws took effect in the mid 70s.
  • Poisendartfrog: Thanks for the comeback/info--will check around for a k/N filter.

    Tks again, deadeye4
  • I'm thinking about purchasing a 98 Blazer LS 4DR 4X4. 60K miles and only 8,000 bucks.

    What do you all think? How much do you like your Blazer? Any particular problems with this certain model?

    I'm really looking forward to buying one, if I do actually get it.

    What do you all think? Your opinions are strongly appreciated. Thanks a ton.
  • Please help with 97 Blazer ! My truck stalls out. There is no pattern to this problem. It can happen at 60 mph or stopped with the transmission in park. It has happened slowing down, accelerating, and stopped at a light with my foot on the break. Hot or cold after 1 mile or 30 miles ( my drive to work ) The problem has been happening for about a 3 moths now. I keep waiting for something to go south so I can fix it and be done with it. It does not seem like it will let go any time soon.
    The battery is pretty new but one morning it acted like it was not going to turn over. Don't think anything was left on but have not had that problem again. I had it in the dealers shop where they found no codes! Accepting any and all ideas!
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    how many miles on the fuel filter? (my 1st guess)

    '98 Blazer - make sure every thing works, like any used vehicle what you get is what you see. If every thing works and it runs well then you are starting from a good position. There are some complaints about late '90s Blazers/Jimmys with transmission oil lines rotting out.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    Never read one post with "transmission oil lines rotting out". Do you have a late 90s Blazer? I think you might be refering to the oil cooler lines from the engine that can leak. The leak is not from "rot", they are some type of synthetic rubber and aluminum. The leak is where the two materials are crimped together.
  • 70,000 miles on the fuel filter
  • Same here, have never heard anything about the "late '90s Blazers/Jimmys with transmission oil lines rotting out. " Sure you didn't mean the oil cooler lines?
  • I'd change your fuel filter, cost you about 10 bucks and a half hour of your time. I would be suprised if you had the problem after you changed it. It is located on the inside frame rail on the drivers side, near the drivers door. Pretty self explanatory on what to do, remove the fuel lines from the old and tranfer to the new. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, take it to a neighborhood mechanic, nothing really can go wrong when you change it so no need to go to the dealership.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    I mistakenly mentioned transmission oil lines. You are right, it was the oil cooler lines.

    How about the oil dipstick rusting? (did I get that right?)

    I have a 2000 so I hope these problems were remedied by that model year.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    The oil dipstick rusting problem was corrected in 98 I think. The problem was water running down the tube from the dip stick top (which did the transmission no good and caused it to fail early). The new ones have a flip top and are sealed very tight.
  • Thanks. I would like to think that it was that simple. I should mention that when it shuts down the after market keyless entry unlocks the doors as if the key switch was turned off!
  • I'd try to disable the aftermarket stuff, sounds like that might be causing the problem.

    Joe
  • Three things...

    1) Ignition switch

    2) Aftermarket "stuff"

    2) Make sure the battery cables are clean and tight. May also check the cable at the alternator, too.
  • Problems: when air temp is < 30 F, heater temp is cool, above 30 F it starts to get warmer. Also, there is a gurgling in my heater core. To date: Nov. 01 100K svc (really at 117K mi, but since the vehicle was in for a failed h20 pump, I figured I would get the svc. done). In addition to the h20 pump, I had the radiator acid flush, new radiator cap, + a few other non-coolant items. 2 wks. later coolant intake gasket to engine repaired (began leaking), 4 wks. later heater core failed(Dec. 01), 2 months later small crack in radiator tank on molded parting line but did not replace until June 02 until it spread a bit. You can see once I repaired the weakest link, the rest of my coolant system systematically failed. So, everything is now 1 year old or less. Heat was fine last winter after all the original work and when I checked in June after radiator replacement it was ok, but, it was summer time and the air temp. was 80 F. Had it in to the dealer 2x this past month for low heat, they "burped" the system twice, once through radiator cap and once by bleeding from htr. core hose. They also checked pressure in all cyclinders w/ Ni, no apparent leaks. GM tech svc. states perhaps a partial blockage in coolant jacket or heater core causing cavitation of fluid and creation of air bubbles and recommends another $400 acid flush, with no guarantee problem will be fixed. Note, I also had the acid flush done in the late 90's when Miss. mud problem came to light (no charge). I have changed oil religiously from day 1 at 3K to 3.5K mi., no coolant in the oil. Replaced T-stat last week, no luck. From info. I read on this site, I will check recovery tank hose for clogging and perhaps replace the radiator cap (12 months old). I may also flush out the heater core through the file wall, but, it is only 12 months old. I do recall the gurgling a few years ago but never had a problem w/ low heat temp. Temp guage is fine, moves between 190 and 175 F, same as before new genuine GM part t-stat put in last week. There is no change in heat temp when it is at 190 vs 175. I am losing no coolant whatsoever. When I operate the heater switch I can hear the door moving, but I cannot tell if it is closing off the A/C all the way. In all positions (defrost, floor, mix, dash) the temp of the air is the same. Any ideas? Any hints on heater core flush through fire wall (do I remove rad. cap?, jack up rear end of car?, will I lose coolant when I remove the hoses?) What is best way to check for full operation of heater door to make sure A/C is closed off? I would very much appreciate any other info. as it is quite cold in updstate NY this time of year. Thank you.
  • I hear you. I really thought that it was the ignition switch for a while. I am almost sure that it is electrical. Since the weather turned cold (in Delaware 20 - 45) degrees it has only done it 3 times in the last three weeks. I am still looking for ideas.
  • Rich:


    I would seriously consider getting in touch with Brian Gillie. He has been collecting information regarding dexcool problems, and yours sounds like a "classic" case of dexcool gone bad. Look at his website:


    http://www.geocities.com/b_gillie/dexcool_problems.html


    You'll be glad you did.

  • Thank you poisondartfrog. I did check out the website and will supply some data. In the meantime, today I replaced the radiator cap with a Stant #10230 as directed somewhere on this site. The old cap was pretty clean (only 1 yr. old). I then squeezed the hose from the radiator cap to the coolant reservoir and it was hard as a rock. I removed it and it was 100% plugged w/ crystalized sludge. Not one drop of water flowed through it. No wonder the reservoir always stayed full! I wonder if the system was sucking outside air in through the cap because this was clogged? I cleaned the hose and have run the vehicle from a cold start 2 times since. I still have a gurgle, but I did use up about 1/2 inch of volume in the coolant reservoir. It may take a few cold starts/stops for the air to purge from the heater core. If there is no difference in a few days, then I will flush the core through the firewall. Two observations: The hoses into the heater core feel much hotter than before, and the heat feels warmer, but, it was 40 degrees today. I need a day in the low 30's or less to really see if there is a difference, or, I need to move to the West coast. Thanks again.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    From what I have found there are two main causes for Dexcool to turn to mud. Air entering the cooling system from the outside and too week of a coolant mixture. I have replaced my radiator cap also with the recommended Stant part to keep air from entering the system. I have also read that you should keep the coolant bottle full, even past the full line. Good find on the recovery hose blockage!
  • Well, clearing the recovery tank hose got rid of the gurgling 100%. But, it's 20 degrees today and my heat is still very marginal. Two possibilities: from abc246, perhaps the Dex-cool is bad, even though it is only 6 months old (new radiator in June) due to drawing in outside air because of the clogged recovery tank hose, or, maybe my heater door under the dash is hung up. Either way, armed w/ info. from this site and associated links, I believe the dealer owes me a free flush and a check of the heater door (they should have checked/cleaned the recovery tank/hose in Nov. 2001 when they acid flushed the vehicle, and they had their paws under the dash Dec. 2001 when they replaced my heater core). I will be visiting them this afternoon with this request. Thanks.
  • The intermittent nature of your stalling and the fact that it stalls less in the cold weather suggest a weak ignition control module. Electric current exhibits less resistance in colder temperatures. If an ignition control module circuit has weakened and developed increased internal resistance, it will create a no spark condition (stall) in warm weather conditions or other situations of high engine compartment heat. It should be checked. Also, given the mileage you have, you should examine the pintle valve on the idle air control valve. Over time it fouls with carbon and prevents the proper air to fuel ratio at idle, resulting in stalls.
  • Nice hot heat....Well, the problem was the heater core being partially clogged. It was flushed out, then the entire system was drained of coolant and fresh water flushed. We chose to not perform another acid flush with 142K miles on the vehicle. No charge for the heat work, but I did get nailed for $360 for new oil coolant lines. I noticed they began leaking a few weeks ago and didn't feel like jacking up the engine to install new ones. So, minimal $ spent on repairs for the first 6 years, but the past year was a doozy. I now have $3600 in 13 months, resulting in new upper/lower ball joints, new h20 pump, new radiator, new heater core, new oil lines, and the 100K service. My goal is to get to 200K miles with minimal nickel and diming, only normal maintenance like brakes, oil, tires, etc. Knock on wood, or is it fruitless? I do like the new Rendezvous, and with $4000 on my GM card + a company discount through my employer, it's hard to not go GMC again. No matter what I end up buying, you can bet I will be on this site researching problems and opinions. Thanks to all for your opinions as we worked through these problems. This is a nice site.
  • Glad to hear you have heat again...

    Oil Cooler lines are problematic with the 1995-2000 triplets; my '97 Bravada is on the third set of lines. GM re-engineered them so I hope they finally got it right. Just like Dex-cool, the oil lines are a nemesis to owners. The upper and lower ball joints were under a recall notice due to potential seperation as a result of corrosion (you must be in a Rust Belt state to qualify). Check your VIN against alldata.com to see if yours qualifies. If so, contact GM Customer Service and see about getting some or all of the money refunded to you. It's worth a shot... I turned my request recently, so I'm waiting to hear back.
  • I checked the site for the ball joint campaign and NY is in the rust belt. I called the customer svc. line and apparently my VIN # is not included, so I cannot get a refund. The woman told me it was not an official recall, but more of a customer "nice thing" to do. I did not get a straight answer why my vehicle was not included. I will still check again. Most likely it has to do w/ mfg. plant and part traceability w/ multiple suppliers or different lot #'s. Anyway, even if I was eligible, I had 117K miles when I had them replaced and the rules of the free replacement campaign are 8 yrs./110K mi. Good luck on your request, and thank you very much for bringing it to my attention.
  • please look at message 263 blazer/gmc problems
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    You can find the forum here: Chevy Blazer/GMC Jimmy Problems


    tidester, host

  • I am interested in purchasing a 2001 Jimmy, 4 DR SLE, I am new to the SUV family and would like some feedback on this vehicle. Any advice would be helpful. Such as major problems,,,etc. The price is right on according to Kelley blue book. But I'd like to know what to look for or what to expect. The vehicle has 34k miles on it. Please advise soon...I need to make a decision very soon.

    Darlene
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    my mom has a 00 4wd Blazer LT with 26K miles. Only major problem was at 24K miles the 4wd went out. Something dealing with the TCC. It was out of warranty (3 yrs up) but the dealership did cover half. Cost was like $400 total and only $200 for her
  • I just recently purchased a 99 Blazer with 65,000. Noticed the oil spots on the pavement and found the leaking lines. In addition to the leaking lines I noticed that the block the oil filter screws onto is corroding to the point that it is being held on by two of the four bolts. After reading of all the problems with these oil lines. I'm a little confused when I go to the dealer,are the lines covered under the extended warranty? It seams to me that the lines and the cast aluminum piece should last longer than they have. Are there any safety recalls on these parts. I remember reading somewhere that factories send bulletins to dealers on parts that they have many problems with how do consumers find out about these notices? I could not find any.
  • The oil cooler lines were covered under my extended warranty, however, read your contract. I have included a GM Tech Link which lists Service Bulletins (no recalls so far) from the last 2 years, and I remember seeing oil cooler lines addressed. In fact, mine were replaced 3x before the latest version of the hoses fixed the problem (knock on wood). You should find the bulletin, and then take it to your dealer, especially since I know some dealers have replaced the lines even out of warranty, as a goodwill repair. It has been a problem on all the V6 S-series trucks, from '95-'01. don't wait too long, because a hose could finally give, lose the oil, and the engine!
  • baker48baker48 Posts: 3
    Would any one have a GM service bulletin number that specifically addresses the issue of leaking oil lines? After receiving a negative response from my dealer I would like to have some more info to backup my position that they should replace them.
  • im thinking about buying a 1997 LT blazer for 8,900 anyone think its good or bad. oh 102000 miles
  • Keep shopping
  • jimtncjimtnc Posts: 36
    My son brought this stuff home and wanted to stick it into the gas tank, and I told him to hold up. Can this NOS Octane Booster do bad things to my Blazer, and/or would it be recommended to use it? Thanks, Jim

    miles=52000
  • The 4.3 liter V6 is designed for regular octane fuel. The compression ratio is a moderate 9.2:1. At that rate of compression, there is no need to raise the octane level of the gasoline. Since high octane gasoline resists detonation under high compression, its use in performance tuned engines is necessary. However, it serves no positive purpose in the Blazer's 4.3 liter engine.
  • jimtncjimtnc Posts: 36
    Thanks for the reply. I was sort of thinking this product might be either a useless investment or, worse, a detriment if added to the engine fluids. I wanted to be sure if it was added it didn't perform some harm.

    Thanks, Jim.
  • jimtncjimtnc Posts: 36
    got a steady yellow "service engine soon" light a few days ago that still comes on and stays, and I understand it has something to do with the emission system or sensors. Any idea what I might be facing and I would guess the price would be relative...but would a dealer be THAT much more expensive than Merchant's Auto, or Pep Boys?

    BTW, the vehicle involved is my son's 99 S-10 Blazer...again.

    Thanks, Jim.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Might be ahead to take it to AutoZone or other parts store that will scan the codes and give you some idea where the problem is. Often a simple part to replace, fix it yourself. There's a reason the dealer owner lives in that mansion at the top of the hill.
  • jimtncjimtnc Posts: 36
    makes good sense to me to cut out the money man. :)

    Wouldn't you know that I went to get gas yesterday for the Blazer, and, lo and behold, I find the gas cap ajar. My wife was the culprit, but since it was her I'm supposed to erase it from my memory. If it was the other way around I'd hear about it for days.

    Anyway, I think I've uncovered the problem. What I don't understand is why it may take a full tank of gas or more to get rid of the yellow light, ie reset.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    "DETROIT &#151; The two-door Chevrolet Blazer SUV has the highest driver death rate of any vehicle on U.S. roads, according to a study released Tuesday by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS)."

    Chevy Blazer: Deadliest Vehicle on the Road? (Inside Line)

    Steve, Host
  • atlasanatlasan Posts: 3
    You'd swear the battery is rattling. No, battery is secure. What makes that God-awful rattle/clunking noise there on even slightly rough road?
  • I just purchased a 95' Chevy Blazer from e-bay in October and it recently started to stall. I had a diagnostic test done and well, let me make a long story short. Thus far I've replaced the catylitic converter, 2 oxygen sensors, fuel pump, sending unit, and relay, and something that has ro do with the fuel pressure(?) and low and behold the damn thing still stalls. It'll stall a few times then not want to start back up for a while. I'm such a girl and I'm a little car illiterate and not to mention this car is a money pit, So could someone, anyone, please help me or give me advice. And yes, it has gas it in, lol. Thanks so much.
  • vincvinc Posts: 3
    Sigh...I have a 92 Jimmy, 4.3 (Z) TBI. I have a no spark situation. Have replaced the ign. coil, the ign. module (Twice) the pick up coil (tested bad), dist. cap, rotor, wires, and plugs (the plugs three times). I get battery voltage to the coil from the ign. switch, and battery voltage to the ignition module. I still have no spark at the ignition coil tower. Any ideas??
  • vincvinc Posts: 3
    Incidentally, to respond to an earlier ost about the expected mileage of a Blazer/Jimmy, mine has about 290,000 miles.
  • buycars1buycars1 Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 jimmy that will not activate the daytime running lights. the e brake is not engaged and the auto headlights work properly. any ideas?
  • I have a '99 Blazer 4WD that has had it's share of necessary repairs (Electronic fuel Pump assembly, oil cooler lines) but suddenly today, my neighbor noticed what looked to be a small puddle of water under my blazer and told my fiance that I might have a water pump leak. She called me and I checked it while at work and discovered that the fluid leaking was pink (tranny). Now I have had no issues with slipping or anything with the tranny. Just this leak very suddenly. What might this be. I have about 77K miles on it now and do proper maintenance (oil changes, brakes, tire rotation, etc) Trannies can cost a lot and I want to get an idea if I may have a big problem or perhaps just a small one. Tranny dipstick looks fine upon standard idling inspection.

    Any thoughts??????
  • I also own a 97 gmc however it's a Jimmy
    I have purchased it with less than 40,000 miles and have had the instrument cluster replaced the gas sending unit and have most recently replaced the transmission at now > 100,000 miles. The most recent issue is a noise like a bearing going bad in the front end and when i put it in 4 wheel it changes tone but is still there.
    Don't think I'll buy another one of these lemons again.
  • Can someone give me instructions on how to replace headlamp bulbs in a 2001 GMC Jimmy please.

    THANKS!!
  • r31687r31687 Posts: 4
    i think it may be your injectors, is it running bad when it does start, and if its not running now check ya fuel pressure if under 55psi it wont start. when u turn the ignition to on can u hear your fuel pump? it should sound like the truck is humming from the back. dont try to start it just turn the key to right before it starts
  • amber4amber4 Posts: 1
    I'm interested in buying a newer 2-door chevy blazer (99-05) and had a few questions.
    Is this car reliable?
    How is the gas mileage?
    What's the fair market value?
    Is there any common problems I should look for?
    How does it handle in the winter?
    Please e-mail me at [email protected]
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