Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I have an interesting problem, My truck will not start when I try to start it in the morning. I have to crank the motor for a good minute or two and consistently play with the throttle for it to start. After it starts it doesn't run right, and by that I mean it idles and if I WOT (wide open throttle) it revs up fine. But if I slowly open the throttle it miss-fires like mad and doesn't really run. When it reaches 190ish degrees and the O2 sensors kick in the problem completely dissapears. Now it didn't always do that I just recently replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the MAF sensor, After Chevrolet told me my problem was and I quote "Sticky Valves" But before I ever replaced the TPS and MAF the truck just flat out miss-fired and was undrivable... I have thought about there being un-metered air getting in somewhere after the MAF, and I had left over upper intake and throttle body gaskets from when I had to replace the intake manifold gasket (coolant leak) so I went and replaced both of those and the problem still exists. I feel I have come a Long way from what the dealer told me and I think there is only one problem left... But I am Stumped. Any Ideas??? Thanks In Advance
I just notice the exact same problem with my 2004 GMC Sierra ExtendedCab on Friday (7/23/10). Today is Sunday (07/25/10) and the problem seems to be intermittent. I notice when the truck sits for a while (i.e. half hour/over night) the keyless entry will not work on the driver's door. I open the driver's door manually by insereting the key into the door lock and no courtesy light (readward on the door panel at the botton behind the map pocket) nor the dome light on the ceiling. When I insert the key into the ignition no chime sounds. When I turn the key to the on position (do not start engine), only the battery light comes on on the instrument cluster. Not the usual full lights system check during power on. No power to the windows, door locks, mirrors on the drivers door, yet the switches and courtesy light work on the passenger door work fine.
If I give it a few minutes and turn the ignition key off anf back on again twice or three times its like the system resets itself and everything returns to normal. Funny thing though, it rained here east of Toronto a lot over the past 3 days. Every time it rained the fault happened. Today it is dry and sunny - problem has not resurfaced.
Question for you - what was the source of you issue with your truck. What did you end up doing to fix it.
I would sincerely appreciate hearing back from you.
thanks...2004gmcsierra.
The most recent piece of the puzzle is with the 4 wheeler trailer (new wiring and lights) sitting on a rubber pad with the ground disconnected from the trailer, no ball contact, no safety chain contact , the trailer lights come on, both lights blinking with only one blinker, step on brakes and the lights go out acting like a poor ground, but there shouldn't be one.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This was cut and pasted from another part to the site. Again any help will help, I have several more gray hairs because of this.
trichie
I apologize that you are experiencing an issue with your vehicle. Can you please email me your VIN and current mileage so I can look into this further? Is the vehicle at the dealership currently or is it at your home with a dead battery? You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Thanks
I apologize that you are experiencing and issue with your vehicle. Has this concern only happened the one time? Or is it an intermittent concern? Have you checked the connections to your trailer? Did any codes come up on the DIC? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Thanks
Please keep me informed on how everything goes. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
Have you ever heard of wierd electrical problems because of altitude????
Unfortunately, I am not a certified mechanic and cannot diagnose your vehicle. However, I have heard that altitude can affect vehicles. If you are unsatisfied with your diagnoses I can locate a different dealership in your area and you can get a second opinion. I would just need your zip code in order to do that. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
My 2005 Silverado (4-door) front and rear passenger electric windows quit working, both at the same time. The front makes no noise at all and the rear window makes a faint click when the buttons are energized. Doesn't seem to matter if the window lock is off or on. The driver side windows are okay.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
BigJohn18
Figured out this one myself... Found the "MBEC" 50 amp maxi fuse blown. It is located in the fuse box under the hood. The fuse apparently feeds the smaller MBEC fuse box under the dashboard just to the left of the brake pedal.
Hopefully it doesn't blow again and was just a aged-fuse failure (it didn't look like a massive blow, just a gentle separation). Otherwise, I'll be tracing the cable harness from the main fuse box to the MBEC fuse box.
Hope this post helps someone else.
BigJohn18
The circumstances are as follows: I was listening to my MP3 player through the auxillary port on my factory stereo. I have played the MP3 with the truck running with no problem. I was outside, truck off, with radio playing MP3. The music turns off and truck will not start. Seems like a low battery. Replace the battery a couple days later and dash lights come on, but no dome lights, tail lights and truck will not start. The safety mechanism for the brake/gear shift is overriden as well as I can get it in gear without applying brakes. Checked all fuses and have continuity at each.
Gave up and went to dealer who informs me that my two year old truck needs a BCM replaced to the tune of well over $500. They then continue to tell me that until the new BCM is in place they will have no way of knowing if the original BCM just "went out" or if there is a cause somewhere in the truck.
My questions are as follows:
1. In the event there is a problem in the truck, will said problem ruin the new BCM ?
2. What are the chances that the original BCM died of its own volition without a "cause" lurking somewhere else in my truck? What typically causes these things to quit? I'm guessing if my truck will run ok, the dealership will kick it out to me and hope I get another couple years off this module. Problem is I'm a woman who travels extensively to nether-regions in texas and I don't wish to be stranded...especially if my new BCM won't let me use my onstar....
3. anyone else have a similar problem?
The BBB is also a viable alternative as they can cut through most of the corporate red tape. That person Juan that contacted you will offer you the moon before agreeing to a buyback. I've seen GM "trade" their Major Guard extended warranty bumper to bumper no deductible worth at least $2500 as an alternative to buyback so keep that option open.
Lastly, do not get emotional in your conversations at the dealership or with any GM representative although it might feel better at the time it will not help your case. Always appear to be reasonable.
Electrical gremlins are the absolute worse to diagnose as most symptoms are intermittent.
Our Silverado is not new it's an 06 and it had 56k on it. From day one thing's started happening, electrical, would not start, anti theft would activate all by itself. Anyway i don't know your state law's but your truck only has a few miles on it if anything i would try and get GM to give you another BRAND NEW TRUCK. That's what i would want and try to get.
The problems are just starting i think unless they can come up with a concrete diagnostic conclusion i would get the BBB to pressure GM into another new truck if that's at all possible.
Keep us posted and let us know how you make out with this, from one Silverado owner to another hope it work's out for you and your family. GOOD LUCK.
Also please make sure to complete a review on your new truck so others can be better educated, keep blogging & talking, only when us consumers wise up & stop buying products from companies that could care less after the sale will we have a chance to see change, although unlikely.
Has anyone noticed that in the Ford & Dodge truck forums you will find nary a complaint about a newer model year truck? Yes I know there is a sales number difference but here in the GM truck forum many of us are talking about brand new trucks, dont believe me, look for yourselves. I love my Sierra when it is in the mood to operate properly but I can tell you all that once you have a problem you are screwed, GM does not care & will not fix anything, Get a lawyer!
Wanting a fairly new Silverado was something i wanted for a long time, I was pretty happy until i got it home in July, so far with my payment and repairs the truck is costing me about a 1000 a month, on average. plus my insurance and gas.
It will be back in the shop again in Oct for another 500 dollar repair ( front wheel bearing. It has been just a money pit. I Hope you take the advise of others and get a lawyer , get the BBB involved and anyone else that might be able to help you.
Anyway, It is my understanding that in general the Lemon Laws provide for the attorney to be paid by the dealer/Corporate office so there is no money out of your pocket and the Corporate will buy back the truck, interest and all other fees that were associated with the sale if the vehicle can't be repaired.
It would be worth it to research your states lemon law to get the specifics.
As was said somewhere on this forum, these trucks are a jewel to drive and operate as long as they do what they are supposed to do.
The problem is my cig. lighter keep's blowing fuses. i had to replace it when i got the truck in july and then today it went out again.
When i took the blown fuse out i noticed that it was not only blown but was also melted. not alot but enough to melt the plastic casing
My ? is how can i determine or find the cause, there seems to be a short somewhere. or could the lighter housing be defective even though the lighter still works.
I took the fuse out and haven't replaced it as i need to find the problem
Any suggestions would be appreciated on what i can check for so my fuse doesn't get hot.
GM has to deliver the same vehicle primarily for internal records, since this is not a regular retail sale.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host
Regards