ive got an 96 7.3 and it starts fairly easily but once i mash on the peddle it misses runs rough then slowly dies. if i put the batt charger on and crank and crak and itll start back and do the same . ive scrathed my head several days and changed the cam sensor, the ipr valve and the idm module. i've checked the filter housing when it dies and its full of fuel. i'm at a loss at what the problem could be. please help.
TO MARK ABOUT THE MODS SOME OTHER GUY DONE ON HIS TRUCK!!! HOPE YOU ARE KIDDING. THESE 6.0 FORDS ARE THE BIGGEST BOAT ANCHORE'S WE HAVE EVER OWNED. I HAVE BEEN A FORD GUY ALL MY LIFE UNTIL RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THIS LAST FORD F350 WITH THE 6.0 05. I HAVE VOWED NEVER TO PURCHASE ANOTHER NEW FORD PERIOD. FORD AND INTERNATIONAL NEW WHAT THEY WERE DOING. AND WHAT THEY ARE STILL DOING. THE OLD 7.3 HAD 20 HEAD BOLTS ON EACH SIDE, THE 6.0 HAS 10 HEAD BOLTS ON EACH SIDE. WAIT A MINUTE, THEY TURN THE 6.0 600-800 RPM MORE AND PUT OUT 60-80 HP MORE THAN THE OLD 7.3. TAKE THE 7.3 SIZE DOWN TO 6.0. LET'S TAKE HALF THE HEAD BOLTS OUT SO THEY DON'T LAST AS LONG AS THE 7.3. MY 6.0, 1ST TIME, 18,000 MILES, NEW HEADS. 2ND TIME 38,000 MILES, NEW HEADS, THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP 9 TIMES. 4 OF WHICH, THEY CLAIMED NOT TO KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON. EXCUSES AFTER EXCUSES. LAST TIME, 98,000 MILES, NOT KNOWN WHY IT USES WATER AND DOESN'T BOOST LIKE IT USED TO. AND ALSO, AFTER NORMAL RUNNING, PULLING A TRAILER, SHUT ENGINE OFF, AFTER 20 MINUTES OF NOT RUNNING, ENGINE WILL BURN COOLANT OUT THE EXHAUST. WHITE SMOKES FOR ABOUT 1 MINUTE AND STOPS SMOKING. CHECK WATER LEVEL, USES VERY LITTLE. I SUSPECT A SENSOR IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM. NO WATER IN OIL, NO OIL IN WATER, EVERY 5,000 MILES USES MAYBE 1 QUART OF WATER. IF ANYBODY KNOWS WHAT SENSOR OR WHAT TO CHECK OR REPLACE, WOULD YOU PLEASE LET ME KNOW.... RANDY SIMS TRINIDAD, TEXAS 832-293-2430 HIPOFOMOCO@YAHOO.COM THIS TRUCK WAS PURCHASED TO WORK ONLY. IF I WANTED A RIDE I WOULD RIDE MY 69 CHEVELLE OR 28 FORD ROADSTER OR 77 CHEVY 4X4. I BOUGHT MY WIFE A NEW DODGE P/U AND THEY CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER FREE. TAKE HER SHOPPING AND GAVE US 3/36000 AND A LIFETIME WARRANTY ON THE POWER TRAIN. FORD AND INTERNATIONAL NEW THIS 6.0 WAS A STEPPING STONE TO REACH WHAT CHEVY HAS ALREADY ACHIEVED. THE 2012 EMISSIONS RULES. FORD STOPPED USING THE 6.0 EARLY AND STARTED USING THE 6.4 EARLIER THAN EXPECTED. I HEARD ABOUT THE LAWSUITE ALSO. I CALLED INTERNATIONAL AND TOLD ME IN THE DESIGN OF THIS 6.0 ENGINE WAS TORQUE TO YEILD HEADBOLT. ONE TIME USE HEAD BOLTS. I PURCHASED A SET OF ARP HEAD BOLTS THAT CERTAINLY HOLD ALOT MORE PRESSURE THAN THE ORIGINALS. 10 HEAD BOLTS JUST IS NOT ENOUGH TO HOLD THIS KIND OF PRESSURES. 22/23 TO 1. MY 69 CHEVELLE 498 CU INCH HAS 13 TO 1 COMPRESSION AND IT HAS 838 HP ON DYNO AND ALOT MORE HEAD BOLTS PER SIDE. ALMOST DOUBLE THE AMOUNT. FORD 6.0 HAS 325 HP - - - BIGGEST BOAT ACHORE YET..... STAY TUNED - I HAVE SAID MY PRAYERS THAT FORD GOES OUT OF BUSINESS.....
Hi all. I just bought a used 1999 - F250 7.1 ltr diesel and I can't seem to locate the plug to plug it in. I'm not sure if it came factory or if I need to add it, but it is a slow starter in the cold. Does just fine on the warm days, but I have to cross my fingers and hold my mouth just right when it is below 40^ outside. I'm sure the glow plugs need to be checked, but this would be a quick easy fix for today.
Hey Bass, It was not an option it comes standard. When facing the truck from the front on the Drivers side look in the far right Hole of the Bumper and it should be in there or look behind the Grill above that area, I know some people will re-run the plug for easier access to it. Now you can also Track it down, Crawl under the Drivers Side and on the back of the Motor where the Freeze Plugs normally are one of them is replaced with the Heater Block Plug, The Plug should be and Orange Plug and the Wire should follow the Frame out to the Front of the Truck.
Mine has almost the same problem, but it only does that once it shuts down completely. I can have a trailer behind me, overdrive off, get it above 35 and it will just shut down. Changed fuel filter and throttle position sensor already. I can wait 3 mins and it will start right back up. If I keep it 35 or below it will go for a while. Without a trailer I can keep it around 60 before it does it. If I do it above 60 it shuts down. Could this be a cam sensor or something else?
fuel line from fuel filter to rear of head on passenger side is worn and leaking at hold down bracket in valley. can this be replaced without lifting motor? any help or advise
Sjoralmon, I have a 1999 F-350 Diesel Powerstroke had same problem as you could not wait for Ford to order part so I went down to the local parts house and bought some 1/4" brake line tubing, an inexpensive flaring and bending tool. For approximately $50 I was able to make a new line reusing the ends of the old line. To this day I haven't had any more problems with that line. I didn't bother to put the holding bracket that rubbed the original hole in the old line back on. The bends may not be the same on the new line as the stock line but I have 329,000 on my truck and it is still running strong. I had it up and running in less than three hours.
My 1999 powerstroke had a remanufactured engine dropped in @ 221,000 miles before I bought it in Alabama...it also had a new turbo replacement just prior to the new engine...I do not know if it had new injectors replaced with the reman engine...the service invoices do not indicate whether injectors were new...the truck will not start now and has @ 225,000 miles....
I bought it in May 2008 and it had been running for over an hour when I first test drove it, so I did not see a problem until starting it cold the next day...it ran well upon test driving it when the engine had been warm and running for a while...I drove towards Pennsylvania...the next morning, in Tennessee, I started it when it was cold...it started up fine but immediately was idling rough as it was "surging" high and low in rpms in idle without my pressure on the accelerator pedal, until it idled for about 5 min and the engine was fully warmed...it had no power when trying to accelerate unless the engine was warmed past the first line on the temp guage....since this problem happened in May 2008 the weather was not really cold in the morning or during the day...this first happened in Tennessee, and this "surging" idle continued on my trip through to Pennsylvania, Kansas, and my Colorado destination, so likely not location or altitude change problems...the loss of power after starting and immediately trying to drive it is amazing...it always barely moves with full throttle until the engine was/is fully warm enough...this happened all summer and continues...
So in June 2008 I replaced the fuel filter, changed the oil, and in October 2008 I changed the drivers bank of glow plugs but the old plugs tested fine...took it to a shop in August 2008 and codes 261 and 266 came up...the mechanic, who has owned Dodge cummings diesels, told me I needed fuel injectors, and recommended I try some diesel fuel injector cleaner, specifically the Chevron Techron...I used the Techron for 5 tank fulls, then a bottle of Lucas, and others...still no change in the idling problems or cold engine loss of power...I did not replace the injectors yet...from may through now I have never plugged in the engine block heater and I always park it outdoors overnight...It always started without problems from May through October 2008 but always idled rough with "surging" rpms when cold after every start....until one day in October 2008 when it took an extra long time to fire up when starting...then during the idling warmup period it stalled on its own and then it would not fire up again to idle....as I attempted to start it I caused the battery go low trying to turn it over, and then the glow plug "wait to start" dash light failed to come on....so I stopped trying to start it and hooked up trickle chargers to the 2 batteries and waited a day to fully charge the batteries...upon trying to start it again, the 30 amp fuse immediately kept blowing and did so at least 15 times trying to start it and waiting for the glow plug light to come on....it seems that the battery strength is linked to the glow plug dash light and 30 amp fuse blowing....the truck would not start for 5 weeks...I towed it to an indoor heated work garage...put the battery on a trickle charge until fully charged and let it sit there for weeks....I ws told by a diesel mechaninc that I may have a short in the wiring causing the 30 amp fuse to keep blowing...with the battery fully charged I put a new fuse in it, the glow plug dash light "wait to start" light came on again, and the truck started...but the engine idled again with a surged up and down in rpms unless I gave it a quick increase on the accelerator pedal...I shut it down and did not drive it but left the battery on a trickle charge...I started it again a few days later running it all day last Wednesday...it again initially ran with low power until the engine was fully heated...it started up all day a few times after I shut down the engine and without a lengthy crank as long as the engine was still warm when starting...I got home, parked it outside, and the next morning it would only starter would only crank but the engine would not fire up...it was cold weather...the glow plug dash light "wait to start" was still coming on...I cranked it a few times then quit trying to start it...yesterday evening, after a warm outdoor 60 degree temperature day, I tried to start it but the dash light "wait to start" light was not coming on...I checked the 30 amp fuse and it was burnt out...I put a new one in and then turned the ignition forward to look for the "wait to start" dash light but heard the fuse blow before cranking...the glow plug dash light does not come ona s long as this fuse keeping burning out...so does anyone have any ideas as to what this problem is??? I am considering purchasing new fuel injectors but I wonder if is is really something else causing the problems....Sorry for the lengthy description but I felt it is necessary in order to get an adequate diagnosis...the codes 261 and 266 relate to the injectors, but seem to indicate electrical related.
Hey Tommy, Here is my email, Atpraterexc1 at aol com, email me and I can give you my number it will be a lot quicker and I may be able to help you without a lot of cost. I don't work full time and not going to charge you shop rates just to help you get your truck runnnig. One question I do have is have you ever replaced the Glow Plug Relay on your tuck ? It's located next to the Fuel Filter on top the motor.
I never replaced the glow plug relay but this am I did disconnect the connector which connects to the fuel filter bowl heater...this allowed the glow plug dash wat to start light to stay on and not blow my 30 amp fuse...but the truck would not start right away and my batteries died...also there is no place close to run electricity from in order to plug in the block heater or to do a trickle charge...why would a new glow plug relay make a difference when the fuse keep blowing?
Can anyone tell me why my 1999 F-350 7.3 liter diesel will not start in the morning. I try for about 3 minutes and when it finaly does start a big white cloud of smoke shoots out the exhaust pipe. Outside temp is between 34 to 40 degrees.
Starting to sound like a broken record here, lol. Check the RELAY to the Glow plugs if you do not know how to check it and take it to someone who does.
found this info with details go to this thread www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f47/hard-no-start-check-here-first-75094/ this will give info on how to check glo plugs and relay
Cowboy and Tommy I don't mean to but in on your conversation but I have posted almost this exact problem twice before and still have come up with no answers. I am very interested in the results that you come up with. I have not blown the 30 amp fuse or run down the batteries. I always keep it plugged in so it always starts then that is where our problems are the same. 1500 rpms is all I get until temperature gauge comes up. I have found out that even before the gauge reaches the "N" in normal I can shut the truck down and restart it and I am good to go. I have also tried to find the connection for the heater in the fuel bowl and have not been able to come up with it. Again I am sorry for butting in but am really interested in getting this fixed. Kelly
Butt on in dude or dudette, lol. Have you ever had the system scanned by a shop with a good scanner ? With out seeing your truck it's kind of a guess game as too where to start but it almost sounds like a Sensor of some type. Have you ran a Test on your Glow Plug Relay or Glow Plugs them self ?
This is for all who has every had this Code come up in a Scan Test, Code P0284 will show up if you had the New Cam Sensor put in under the Factory Recall. For some reason they don't know how come but it does, so unless your Truck is actually running rough and that Code comes up just pretend it didn't, lol. If your truck is running rough and no other Code comes up but P0284 then yes more than likely it's the #8 Injector that is bad. On 2000 to 2002 most of them the #8 was an AE and the rest of them are AD Injectors but every parts store or place you buy them already know this and is old news to them, well they will know it when they pull up the part in there system any ways, lol.
Thanks Tony. (I am a dude.) No I haven't had it scanned at a shop. I used a friend's Hypertech computer and came up with the code for an atmospheric pressure sensor and replaced that with no avail. I also have never tested the plug relay but have had new plugs put in a couple of years ago. My truck is a 97 with the 7.3. This condition has been coming on stronger and stronger for a few years now. Now it is constant no matter the temp outside.
the wire between the bendics and the starter is what you smelled burning and the stater is froze up I just had the same problem and It cost me 400 to find the problem
tommy, any new news on the diesel?? I have a 1999 ford f250 w/7.3..I bought the truck about 5 months ago... never had any problems, but last week It was about 30 degrees outside ( cold for us in dallas) the truck started and I let it warm up for 10 minutes.. i drove for about 15 more mins. and it died.. the wait for start light was not on..would not start.. i towed it to my mechanic.. the #30 fuse was blown.. put a new fuse in checked everything started fine and no problems for about a week the weather has been warm until this morning.. the fuse blew and wouldnt start?? i am thinking the fuel heater?? or the gp relay?? any thoughts would be helpfulll...thanks , Eric :
Tony, Yes, I was going to check the glow plugs and the relays in the next few days and see what that tells me, but several other people with the #30 fuse blowing alot of times is the fuel heater that has a short in it....I am just wondering why i never have a problem unless we get a cold snap.....30 degrees or so... thanks, I will let you know about the glow plugs and the glow plug relay tests..I have read the forum from front to back and tony you seen like your pretty sharp when it comes to working on these things.. I just refuse to take it to a dealer and don't know anyone who will work on a powerstroke in dallas, texas... where are you from tony?? if you have any recommendations they are always appreciated...thanks, Eric
I went out when it warmed up and unhooked the fuel heater plug.. the fuse kept blowing when it was cold until I unplugged it..the fuse did not blow again.. I left the fuel heater unpluged and the other morning it was 25 degrees outside and the truck started fine and ran fine.. must have been a short in the fuel heater... has been running fine for over a week and has been cold several days.. also I replace the glow plug relay tonight just to be safe... thanks for the info...Eric
I have a 1999 F550 truck with the 7.3 engine which I tow a 37' 5th wheel with. It has 160k towing miles. I am having a problem with the high pressure oil pump (HPOP) and need some technical assistance. My problem started when it sat in my shop while we worked on the valve cover gasket leaks after I had the glow plugs replaced. When I tried to start it (five weeks later) it wouldn’t start. We tried to check everything we could think of. Finally, we removed the screw on top of the HPOP and noticed that there wasn’t any oil in it. We filled it with oil (until the level was at the top of the pump) and tried to start it again. It started. Since then (3 months), if it sits for a period of time getting it to start is an issue (sometimes it won’t start after sitting only a couple of days or a week – it’s not consistent). All I have to do is to remove the screw on top of the HPOP & fill it and it will start. My questions are:
a. Is it the HPOP? b. Is it the check valve in the block? c. With the HPOP costing $500, I need to know if there is any way to check the system to find out definitely that is the problem before expending that kind of money. I don’t want to just replace it unless I am confident that is the only issue. d. As noted in the Ford 1999 F-Super Duty F-250, F350, F450, & F-550 Workshop Manual, could my problem be with Item 35 & 36 seat and ball kit, Item 37, 38, 39 Oil Pump Relief Valve Spring, Oil Pump Relief Valve Plug & the O-Ring Seal? (Pg 303-01C-5 & 6)
It just seems to me like a check value on something has a leak. Any assistance, thoughts, lessons learned, or trouble shooting ideas will be greatly appreciated.
i have a 99 ford with the 7.3 automatic....just recently installed a superchips power programmer on it an the truck has done awesome till the other day i locked it in 4wd an was backing up a rough hill an loaded a car on the trailer an soon as i pulled back down to the road i took it out of 4wd an re-programmed it an put it on the tow-safe mode...after i took off it went through 1st an 2nd an into 3rd but it wont shift out its almost like the overdrive isn't working...i took the program off the truck an took the battery cabels off an hope that it would clear everything but it didnt...any help would be greatly appreciated i am by far no tranny man an dont want to spend a fortune if i dont half to...THANKS!
Did you have the OD off prior while driving with the trailer on ? Also if you was just hauling a car trailer & car on it you don't have to uninstall your Superchips, I run the same Programmer & yes I know they say you should take it out of HP Mode but I have a Gooseneck trailer that I pull with a 8500# Bobcat and a total weight of 14000# I am towing and never change my setting. It's always on Max, lol. You have a dumbie light on the dash board that will come on if you start pushing it to hard, ( which I have done ) now if you keep trying to push it when that comes on then you can cause some damage but the truck should also power down if it's running to hot. So any way if you did have the OD off when towing you have just blown a Fuse, Relay or maybe a wire came lose under the truck. If the Wire to the Button on the Shifter broke it's very easy to till, there is like 2 or 3 screws that keep the Steering Colum on, un screw them and check the wire, they usually break right where the little black rubber deal is, you will see what I am talking about once you pull off that cover.
Hopefully that helps if not just email back and we can go from there, also on that Programmer you can run a scan to check for Codes of course it's not like or as good as a Shop but it might show something. On the Codes though if you pull one I think it's P0285 and it's something about the #8 Injector don't worry about it as you probably had the new Cam Censor put on and for some reason that Code comes up now, unless your truck is running rough don't worry about that Code.
Am going through 6.0L issues now. Had head gaskets replaced on my "04"along with oil cooler & EGR coolers (second 1) in Phoenix @ 125,000 miles. Drove to OKC and still smell diesel & antifreeze. Now I have cracked heads & deal wants $7,000.00 for heads & hoses...check TSB 08-23-8. This is becoming a regular issue but Ford will offer no assistance. Beware 6.0L owners.
My '04' has this issue. Diesel eats the rubber hoses & seals and is very noticable through the coolant reservoir cap. I have cracked heads...($ 7,000.00) for heads & all new hoses w/ no assistance from Ford. Check TSB 08-23-8.
I have owned a '99' F-350 Powerstroke(470,000 miles) & still have a '02' has 230,000 miles...both 7.3L. Great trucks...Then I bought a '04' King Ranch w/ 6.0L. Starting at 95,700 miles...high pressure oil pump, EGR valve, EGR cooler, & coolant reservoir. After 100,000 miles...oil cooler, another EGR cooler, another coolant reservoir, & head gaskets totaling $ 5,500.00...1200 miles later...heads are cracked & needs new heads, all new hoses, & yet another coolant reservoir totaling $ 7,057.48. Even with the TSB 08-23-8...Ford will do nothing to help. This is not an isolated incident but more like a recall. Attention Ford an Ford owners...a $ 52,000 truck should last longer than 125,000 miles.
I am having trouble with my truck.i parcked it the night before and the next morning it started but then stalled after running ruff.I changed the fuel filter and added 911 to filter and tank.It started up ran very ruff and stalled again.So i went and got a cam sensor from ford.I changed it.but its doing the same thing running ruff then stalls.The outside temp is 6 degrees.There is fuel in bye the fuel filter.someone told me fuel is jelled,but i have fuel. PLEASE HELP
my 02 f 350 started doing that a few weeks ago. It started by running rough while cold if i plugged in the heater. then i stopped plugging it in and it starts fine. only thing now is that it dies after sitting at a stop light/sign. then starts up fine and runs fine when hot but when i leave the stop light it sounds real quiet in the exhaust then sounds normal after a couple seconds. still dont know what is going on. I too have changed fuel filter, added diesel conditioner, and cleaned air filter. Any help out there?
I left a message about my ford diesel.I just wanted to update that message.I got it running again.It just neede some heat under the drivers door frame rail to warm up the fuel in lines.Although i had fuel it wasnt enough.
I have A 96 F-250 7.3 Powerstroke. Reg. Cab 4X4. Iwas getting 18 to 19 miles per gallon or about 360 to front tank and 320 rear tank. Running 33 inch tires have superchip. Did cut exhaust off and ran straight pipe from the aftermarket downpipe. Cant figue out why Iam losing so many miles per tank. Getting like 220 to 240 a tank now. Wondering if I dont have enough back pressure. REALLY DONT KNOW. If anybody could help I would be greatful for any info.
Did you add the Superchips after you did the Pipes or Before ? I know once I added the Straight Pipe to mine I lost MPG only because I loved the sound, lol. Once I backed of it I started getting better MPG again.
Thats funny, I had the same problem with my '99 powerstroke. I had took the muffler and tailpipe off and didn't put anything back. The higher you rev it the better it sounds, no good for MPG though.
i have a 01 f250 with a 7.3 when the motor is cold it cuts out and the rpm drops and makes like a hissing type sound. almost like air is leaking some where.once it is warm it runs great.any ideas.
sounds like the exaust outlet gate on the turbo is closing when the engine is cold. its supposed to warm up the engine faster i guess..i'd check that. scott
I have a 2000 f-250 7.3 that has a hard time starting some day's I get lucky and it starts after 20 trys i live in Grande Prairie alberta canada and it get to - 40 bellow if i plug it in and spray quick start in the air intake it starts every time i just recently got a letter from ford on a recall of the cmp-sensor now its fine it starts every time
I have a 2000 f-250 7.3 that has a hard time starting some day's I get lucky and it starts after 20 trys i live in Grande Prairie alberta canada and it get to - 40 degrees bellow celsius if i plug it in and spray quick start in the air intake it starts every time i just recently got a letter from ford on a recall of the cmp-sensor now its fine it starts every time
I have a 2007 power stroke.I bought truck at end of 06.When I took truck to fl that wintre I was getting 14.8 mpg.Came home had problem with exhust leak .Took it to dealer,there and they fixed it but the mpg droped to 9mpg.I put a banks system on to get more mpg and gained 2.7 mpg.While driving to mount rushmore it blew anti freeze out through over flow tank and exhust.It turns out ford has had this since 2002 to 2008 ford tsb 8-3-7.ford refused to fix it due to banks system I went to arbritation through bbb and lost again.Any one had this happen and were you able to fix it?
II posted message about 2007 diesel.read some one is thinking about law suit .I am intrested in that .I have talked to an attorney in Mass about that.Any one had any success at that?
I have the same problem with 2007 6.0L.I posted 2 messages last nite on this.I read one message that some one is talking about a law suit.I am thinking the same and think we should start a nation wide class action suit against ford.According to diesel tech where I bought my truck, Sanson ford in ocean NJ that the problem also exhists in 2008 engins also.I took ford to arbitation with bbb and lost as ford engineer said that it was due to banks putting 35psi on heads.I was told by some else that twin turbos create 40psi to heads.I also had a problem with exhust leak and when I went to dealer they said we have a tsb on that and they fixed it but my mpg droped form 14.8 to9 mpg.tat is why I put banks on for fuel savings.I dont drive my truck hard and only have 24700 miles on it When pulling my31 ft 5th wheel which grosses at 12,000I run at 62 to65mph on cruse.I am69+ and do not run hard.if any one wants to start a law suit count me in.skip
Anthony, posted messages that I have the same problem .I think that all of us that have this should join togeather ,find a top rated lemon laywer and start a class action suit.This problem extends from2002 to 2008.Igot that info from a ford service manager in story city Iowa this summer and form the diesel tech at the dealer where I bought my truck.there are at least 3 tech service bullitins on this.skip21
i have a 2000 7.3 powerstroke f350 dont start, was driving on a rainy night when i turned on my turn signal the motor turned off,i found turn signal fuse blown and was another fuse blown also not sure which fuse other one was i replace fuses but truck turns over but dont start..have never had trouble with this truck before ,about 2 years ago i added lights to running boards rain must have shorted them out and blown fuses ..i have checked all fuses & relays i can find but it dont crank...if i spray started fluid in breather pipe it tries to crank..with out starter fluid it dont hit a lick ?? you can hear fueal pump prime with key switched on...any ideas please .. email me at mwx4@hotmail.com
Comments
HOPE YOU ARE KIDDING. THESE 6.0 FORDS ARE THE BIGGEST BOAT ANCHORE'S WE HAVE EVER OWNED. I HAVE BEEN A FORD GUY ALL MY LIFE UNTIL RIGHT AFTER I PURCHASED THIS LAST FORD F350 WITH THE 6.0 05. I HAVE VOWED NEVER TO PURCHASE ANOTHER NEW FORD PERIOD. FORD AND INTERNATIONAL NEW WHAT THEY WERE DOING. AND WHAT THEY ARE STILL DOING. THE OLD 7.3 HAD 20 HEAD BOLTS ON EACH SIDE, THE 6.0 HAS 10 HEAD BOLTS ON EACH SIDE. WAIT A MINUTE, THEY TURN THE 6.0 600-800 RPM MORE AND PUT OUT 60-80 HP MORE THAN THE OLD 7.3. TAKE THE 7.3 SIZE DOWN TO 6.0. LET'S TAKE HALF THE HEAD BOLTS OUT SO THEY DON'T LAST AS LONG AS THE 7.3.
MY 6.0, 1ST TIME, 18,000 MILES, NEW HEADS. 2ND TIME 38,000 MILES, NEW HEADS, THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP 9 TIMES. 4 OF WHICH, THEY CLAIMED NOT TO KNOW WHAT IS GOING ON. EXCUSES AFTER EXCUSES. LAST TIME, 98,000 MILES, NOT KNOWN WHY IT USES WATER AND DOESN'T BOOST LIKE IT USED TO. AND ALSO, AFTER NORMAL RUNNING, PULLING A TRAILER, SHUT ENGINE OFF, AFTER 20 MINUTES OF NOT RUNNING, ENGINE WILL BURN COOLANT OUT THE EXHAUST. WHITE SMOKES FOR ABOUT 1 MINUTE AND STOPS SMOKING. CHECK WATER LEVEL, USES VERY LITTLE. I SUSPECT A SENSOR IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM. NO WATER IN OIL, NO OIL IN WATER, EVERY 5,000 MILES USES MAYBE 1 QUART OF WATER. IF ANYBODY KNOWS WHAT SENSOR OR WHAT TO CHECK OR REPLACE, WOULD YOU PLEASE LET ME KNOW.... RANDY SIMS
TRINIDAD, TEXAS
832-293-2430
HIPOFOMOCO@YAHOO.COM
THIS TRUCK WAS PURCHASED TO WORK ONLY. IF I WANTED A RIDE I WOULD RIDE MY 69 CHEVELLE OR 28 FORD ROADSTER OR 77 CHEVY 4X4.
I BOUGHT MY WIFE A NEW DODGE P/U AND THEY CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER FREE. TAKE HER SHOPPING AND GAVE US 3/36000 AND A LIFETIME WARRANTY ON THE POWER TRAIN.
FORD AND INTERNATIONAL NEW THIS 6.0 WAS A STEPPING STONE TO REACH WHAT CHEVY HAS ALREADY ACHIEVED. THE 2012 EMISSIONS RULES. FORD STOPPED USING THE 6.0 EARLY AND STARTED USING THE 6.4 EARLIER THAN EXPECTED. I HEARD ABOUT THE LAWSUITE ALSO.
I CALLED INTERNATIONAL AND TOLD ME IN THE DESIGN OF THIS 6.0 ENGINE WAS TORQUE TO YEILD HEADBOLT. ONE TIME USE HEAD BOLTS. I PURCHASED A SET OF ARP HEAD BOLTS THAT CERTAINLY HOLD ALOT MORE PRESSURE THAN THE ORIGINALS. 10 HEAD BOLTS JUST IS NOT ENOUGH TO HOLD THIS KIND OF PRESSURES. 22/23 TO 1.
MY 69 CHEVELLE 498 CU INCH HAS 13 TO 1 COMPRESSION AND IT HAS 838 HP ON DYNO AND ALOT MORE HEAD BOLTS PER SIDE. ALMOST DOUBLE THE AMOUNT. FORD 6.0 HAS 325 HP - - - BIGGEST BOAT ACHORE YET.....
STAY TUNED - I HAVE SAID MY PRAYERS THAT FORD GOES OUT OF BUSINESS.....
It was not an option it comes standard. When facing the truck from the front on the Drivers side look in the far right Hole of the Bumper and it should be in there or look behind the Grill above that area, I know some people will re-run the plug for easier access to it. Now you can also Track it down, Crawl under the Drivers Side and on the back of the Motor where the Freeze Plugs normally are one of them is replaced with the Heater Block Plug, The Plug should be and Orange Plug and the Wire should follow the Frame out to the Front of the Truck.
Good Luck , Hope that Helps
Tony
I have a 1999 F-350 Diesel Powerstroke had same problem as you could not wait for Ford to order part so I went down to the local parts house and bought some 1/4" brake line tubing, an inexpensive flaring and bending tool. For approximately $50 I was able to make a new line reusing the ends of the old line. To this day I haven't had any more problems with that line. I didn't bother to put the holding bracket that rubbed the original hole in the old line back on. The bends may not be the same on the new line as the stock line but I have 329,000 on my truck and it is still running strong. I had it up and running in less than three hours.
I bought it in May 2008 and it had been running for over an hour when I first test drove it, so I did not see a problem until starting it cold the next day...it ran well upon test driving it when the engine had been warm and running for a while...I drove towards Pennsylvania...the next morning, in Tennessee, I started it when it was cold...it started up fine but immediately was idling rough as it was "surging" high and low in rpms in idle without my pressure on the accelerator pedal, until it idled for about 5 min and the engine was fully warmed...it had no power when trying to accelerate unless the engine was warmed past the first line on the temp guage....since this problem happened in May 2008 the weather was not really cold in the morning or during the day...this first happened in Tennessee, and this "surging" idle continued on my trip through to Pennsylvania, Kansas, and my Colorado destination, so likely not location or altitude change problems...the loss of power after starting and immediately trying to drive it is amazing...it always barely moves with full throttle until the engine was/is fully warm enough...this happened all summer and continues...
So in June 2008 I replaced the fuel filter, changed the oil, and in October 2008 I changed the drivers bank of glow plugs but the old plugs tested fine...took it to a shop in August 2008 and codes 261 and 266 came up...the mechanic, who has owned Dodge cummings diesels, told me I needed fuel injectors, and recommended I try some diesel fuel injector cleaner, specifically the Chevron Techron...I used the Techron for 5 tank fulls, then a bottle of Lucas, and others...still no change in the idling problems or cold engine loss of power...I did not replace the injectors yet...from may through now I have never plugged in the engine block heater and I always park it outdoors overnight...It always started without problems from May through October 2008 but always idled rough with "surging" rpms when cold after every start....until one day in October 2008 when it took an extra long time to fire up when starting...then during the idling warmup period it stalled on its own and then it would not fire up again to idle....as I attempted to start it I caused the battery go low trying to turn it over, and then the glow plug "wait to start" dash light failed to come on....so I stopped trying to start it and hooked up trickle chargers to the 2 batteries and waited a day to fully charge the batteries...upon trying to start it again, the 30 amp fuse immediately kept blowing and did so at least 15 times trying to start it and waiting for the glow plug light to come on....it seems that the battery strength is linked to the glow plug dash light and 30 amp fuse blowing....the truck would not start for 5 weeks...I towed it to an indoor heated work garage...put the battery on a trickle charge until fully charged and let it sit there for weeks....I ws told by a diesel mechaninc that I may have a short in the wiring causing the 30 amp fuse to keep blowing...with the battery fully charged I put a new fuse in it, the glow plug dash light "wait to start" light came on again, and the truck started...but the engine idled again with a surged up and down in rpms unless I gave it a quick increase on the accelerator pedal...I shut it down and did not drive it but left the battery on a trickle charge...I started it again a few days later running it all day last Wednesday...it again initially ran with low power until the engine was fully heated...it started up all day a few times after I shut down the engine and without a lengthy crank as long as the engine was still warm when starting...I got home, parked it outside, and the next morning it would only starter would only crank but the engine would not fire up...it was cold weather...the glow plug dash light "wait to start" was still coming on...I cranked it a few times then quit trying to start it...yesterday evening, after a warm outdoor 60 degree temperature day, I tried to start it but the dash light "wait to start" light was not coming on...I checked the 30 amp fuse and it was burnt out...I put a new one in and then turned the ignition forward to look for the "wait to start" dash light but heard the fuse blow before cranking...the glow plug dash light does not come ona s long as this fuse keeping burning out...so does anyone have any ideas as to what this problem is??? I am considering purchasing new fuel injectors but I wonder if is is really something else causing the problems....Sorry for the lengthy description but I felt it is necessary in order to get an adequate diagnosis...the codes 261 and 266 relate to the injectors, but seem to indicate electrical related.
Here is my email, Atpraterexc1 at aol com, email me and I can give you my number it will be a lot quicker and I may be able to help you without a lot of cost. I don't work full time and not going to charge you shop rates just to help you get your truck runnnig. One question I do have is have you ever replaced the Glow Plug Relay on your tuck ? It's located next to the Fuel Filter on top the motor.
Tony
this will give info on how to check glo plugs and relay
Butt on in dude or dudette, lol. Have you ever had the system scanned by a shop with a good scanner ? With out seeing your truck it's kind of a guess game as too where to start but it almost sounds like a Sensor of some type. Have you ran a Test on your Glow Plug Relay or Glow Plugs them self ?
Tony
Tony
any new news on the diesel?? I have a 1999 ford f250 w/7.3..I bought the truck about 5 months ago... never had any problems, but last week It was about 30 degrees outside ( cold for us in dallas) the truck started and I let it warm up for 10 minutes.. i drove for about 15 more mins. and it died.. the wait for start light was not on..would not start.. i towed it to my mechanic.. the #30 fuse was blown.. put a new fuse in checked everything started fine and no problems for about a week the weather has been warm until this morning.. the fuse blew and wouldnt start?? i am thinking the fuel heater?? or the gp relay?? any thoughts would be helpfulll...thanks , Eric :
Tony
Yes, I was going to check the glow plugs and the relays in the next few days and see what that tells me, but several other people with the #30 fuse blowing alot of times is the fuel heater that has a short in it....I am just wondering why i never have a problem unless we get a cold snap.....30 degrees or so... thanks, I will let you know about the glow plugs and the glow plug relay tests..I have read the forum from front to back and tony you seen like your pretty sharp when it comes to working on these things.. I just refuse to take it to a dealer and don't know anyone who will work on a powerstroke in dallas, texas... where are you from tony?? if you have any recommendations they are always appreciated...thanks, Eric
a. Is it the HPOP?
b. Is it the check valve in the block?
c. With the HPOP costing $500, I need to know if there is any way to check the system to find out definitely that is the problem before expending that kind of money. I don’t want to just replace it unless I am confident that is the only issue.
d. As noted in the Ford 1999 F-Super Duty F-250, F350, F450, & F-550 Workshop Manual, could my problem be with Item 35 & 36 seat and ball kit, Item 37, 38, 39 Oil Pump Relief Valve Spring, Oil Pump Relief Valve Plug & the O-Ring Seal? (Pg 303-01C-5 & 6)
It just seems to me like a check value on something has a leak. Any assistance, thoughts, lessons learned, or trouble shooting ideas will be greatly appreciated.
Did you have the OD off prior while driving with the trailer on ? Also if you was just hauling a car trailer & car on it you don't have to uninstall your Superchips, I run the same Programmer & yes I know they say you should take it out of HP Mode but I have a Gooseneck trailer that I pull with a 8500# Bobcat and a total weight of 14000# I am towing and never change my setting. It's always on Max, lol. You have a dumbie light on the dash board that will come on if you start pushing it to hard, ( which I have done ) now if you keep trying to push it when that comes on then you can cause some damage but the truck should also power down if it's running to hot. So any way if you did have the OD off when towing you have just blown a Fuse, Relay or maybe a wire came lose under the truck. If the Wire to the Button on the Shifter broke it's very easy to till, there is like 2 or 3 screws that keep the Steering Colum on, un screw them and check the wire, they usually break right where the little black rubber deal is, you will see what I am talking about once you pull off that cover.
Hopefully that helps if not just email back and we can go from there, also on that Programmer you can run a scan to check for Codes of course it's not like or as good as a Shop but it might show something. On the Codes though if you pull one I think it's P0285 and it's something about the #8 Injector don't worry about it as you probably had the new Cam Censor put on and for some reason that Code comes up now, unless your truck is running rough don't worry about that Code.
Tony
Another unhappy customer
muffler and tailpipe off and didn't put anything back. The higher you rev it the better it sounds, no good for MPG though.