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Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair



  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    I'm not to sure what the previous post is but...............

    The numbers for the Montoe shocks are:

    Monroe Sensamatic

    37159 Front
    37160 Rear

  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    I meant to write:



  • mdimdi Posts: 4
    I have 37160.
  • Bert is correct. My posting on it is posting #125, but the P/Ns are those Bert detailed. As I recall from my conversation with Monroe Tech Support, one set is a bit longer (has a longer rod) than the other (the rear ones are longer, I believe).

    Here is the posting I made a while ago:
  • tomagtomag Posts: 3
    I have an 02 Axiom 2 WD. I had an independent garage perform routine maintenance but they could not figure out how to reset the service mileage on the display screen back to zero. Mechanic told me I would most likely need to have a "dealer" do it. Does anyone know I can do this? Thanks
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    No, you don't need a dealer to do the reset.

    I'll have to go out and do mine to remember the steps. But it's simple. I think you just push and hold the service button then step through the mileage you want for a service interval.

    I'll try later today.

  • cptsessocptsesso Posts: 116
    edited August 2010
    Had the shocks done today and I'm glad I did not attempt it myself. What a p.i.t.a.

    The poor guy at Pep Boys ended up cutting off all 4. The tops of the rear 2 and the bottom bolts of the front 2. The rears just because they were ridiculous to get at and work and on the front the lower bolts were rusted solid to the sleeves which pass through the shock itself.

    Felt bad for the guy so I gave him a nice tip. Anyway cost me $237.00 including a 50% off labor coupon. Not a bad deal for how much of a project it was.

    Axiom rides like a normal on frame suv now. Not as soft as the "Normal" mode and not as harsh as the "Sport" mode.

    Went with the Monroe Sensatrac's as suggested.
  • bertbcfmbertbcfm Posts: 71
    Yeah, just what I ran into.......but no lift to make it easier.

    I still appreciate the better ride though.

  • I hope that someone can help me here as my isuzu dealership cannot. My ignition immobilizer sometimes reads my key and sometimes it does not. I want to remove this immobilizer before I get stranded away from home. I own a 2004 Axiom with lots of miles. The dealership suggest that the immobilizer brain should be replaced. This is a large expense for what I call an old car. I just as soon have this system turned off or removed before I spend over a thousand dollars to replace the brain. Does anyone know how to shut this system down or remove it altogether. I know that this was an option and that not all axioms had this system installed. I want it gone, can anyone help, please. Thanks,
  • Hi Dautlas:

    Sorry to hear about your problem with your 04 Axiom. Based on your description, it sounds like what you are actually talking about is the Anti-theft and Keyless Entry Controller Unit, which as you mention is not a standard item, but an optional accessory. In the Axiom Workshop Manual I bought on Ebay, it is detailed in Chapter 8H-14 on page 1964 of 2100, where it is shown as a small CPU unit, about the size of a small hard drive for a PC, that is located behind the glove box.

    Based on a first read of this info, it would appear to be an easy changeout, but I have not studied the details of it. For instance, how you get the new unit calibrated to recognize your key.

    Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that this unit is heavily integrated into the entire starting system, so you would have to replace it, IF YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT THE SAME PCU.

    So, one option for you would be to spend the $15 to get an electronic copy of the service (workshop) manual and take a look at this info. If you are a good mechanic and good with electronics and repair, you should be able to do this job yourself, with the caveats already mentioned considered. I suppose you could get a used Keyless Entry Controller from a salvage yard, or you can get discount Isuzu parts from the Scarff Isuzu n Washington state, whose website is

    It does not look any harder than replacing the CD changer or installing a satellite radio system. You remove the glove box from the dash, then the unit itself is located behind the glove box, attached with 2 screws and 2 connectors. You remove the old unit, then follow the two pages of instructions to "prepare" or sync the new unit to your key, then install it. Can't see anything difficult about this, and it appears that once again, the dealer is trying to gouge a customer for the repair.

    Check with Scarff on the cost of a new unit tomorrow. In the meantime, get the 2004 Workshop Manual - you will need it for the two pages of calibration instructions alone.
  • Dautlas: Rereading your entry, I realize I forgot to ask this basic question: does the problem with the Controller unit not recognizing your key affect BOTH keys? I would want to be sure it was not a KEY PROBLEM before swapping out the Keyless Entry and Anti-Theft Controller. If the problem is identical for both keys, then the dealer is probably right about the unit being flaky. Even so, I wonder if you could go through the re-calibration procedure with your existing key and the problem might go away/ Did the dealer already ask/try all that?
  • Walk_the_walk2: The problem started Feb. of this year but went away when the weather warmed. Now the mornings are cooling down into the fifties and the problem is back. The dealer suggested that the key was flaky and I should replace it first as it was the cheapest to start with. The key was $50.00 and another $40.00 to program for both of my keys. (I only had the one key) They had an issue connecting with the programmer at the time. They said it took three times to register the keys. At that point they thought that there was something wrong with the unit. Anyway I retired the original key to my wife as a spare key and I use the new key. Now the problem is with the new key but the back-up (original key) has been working. I don't think I can trust this unit anymore, it might not read either key and that would be bad depending on where I was at the time. My wife and I were talking about taking a trip to the mountains to do some 4 wheeling, not anymore with this problem. I really would like to remove this unit if possible. I ask the dealership if they could remove this system and they said no. I ask them for the information so I could remove this system myself and they said that they could not pass out the information for disabling a security device. Against some type of mandate of some kind. I am an electronic technician and with the right information I could disconnect this system. I also purchased a cd manual off of eBay for this model year but the information is vague about how this system works. I did some test but to no avail. Thanks for you reply. Dautlas
  • I know nothing about these systems. None on my 2002 Axiom.

    But do the keys have a battery in them? Could you try replacing the battery? Or if they are passive, can they be popped open and cleaned?

    "Ignorance is bliss and I smile a lot"

  • No battery and nothing to clean. It is a chip that is encased in epoxy. The thing is that not all Axioms had this system so there must be a way to remove this system and make it more like your axiom. I cannot find anyone that knows the difference between the two setups, an Axiom with and an Axiom without that can tell me what to change or remove Thanks for your reply.
  • Try this site for a start. Read their information and then go to:

  • It just occurred to me that the ignition immobilizer is active when there are faults in the engine system. Like a cam out of time, low oil pressure, and lots of other things. I'd try plugging onto the OBD slot or what ever they call the analysis port and see if there are other car system problems that are keeping the car from starting.

  • Great idea, but the spare backup key (original key) works correctly to get the car started at present. This problem has been happening in the early morning hours on my way to work so the car has sat for about 12 hours at that point. This is the reason I purchased a second key because the original key could not be read by the immobilizer everytime. Now the new $90 key is starting to have the same problem. There has to be a way to remove or disconnect this system. Thanks for the reply.
  • I also have a AS in Electronics, and looking at the wiring diagram for this PCU, I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole. It is HEAVILY interconnected to the rest of the vehicle's electronics. Now, maybe you can do a comparison between the wiring of a non- AntiTheft and your own and find the differences and rewire it, but it looks more than difficult on first glance. (Then again, I figured out how to ditch that nasty electronic shock system, so it may be worth it in your case.)

    You say the manual you purchased on Ebay does not provide much information. Is it a Workshop Manual? Mine for my 02 Axiom came with two PDFs, one is a Workshop Manual that is 2100 pages alone! Is that the kind of manual you got, or did you get one of those Chilton-style manuals that is just an overview?

    I note that your profile has a private email address. I will adjust the settings on mine, so you can contact me by email, but it does not happen immediately. So, if you want to contact me sooner, you can contact me via my work email address listed on the Contacts page at:
  • I think that I have the same manual as you, workshop manual for a 2002 model year. I cannot find a manual for the 2004 model year. There is a reference in section eight to the alarm system but this is for the door locks and alarm not the immobilizer system. I wish I could find the print on the immobilizer system then I could make a comparison to the two system and then maybe I could get this thing disconnected. I also have other things that I want to tackle like new heater controls so I could swap out the stereo and then install a 7inch LCD screen for my backup camera and my side view mirror cameras. I also have a guy lined up to help bend a grill guard for the Axiom. Thanks for the reply.
  • Dautlas: Sounds like you have the same manual that I do then. And, the design for electrical components probably did not change over that period of 2001-2004. Minor changes in the wheels, but otherwise the same vehicle. I still think you are referring to the Anti-Theft Controller Module (ATCM), and want you to look at first page 6E-96, and then again in more detail on page 8D-21 (PDF pg. 1856). This controller is tied in heavily to your car's electrical wiring, but as the diagram on page 6E-96 indicates, there is really ONLY ONE WIRE that prevents the vehicle from starting, which is the connection shown going from the ATCM to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), connecting to the PCM at connection #F70 with a white/green wire.

    Looks like the wire connection probably provides a ground connection to that transistor to disable the ignition (although it could be the opposite, it could pull it high to 12V). In any case, here are two very easy tests you could try to see if you can disable this system:

    1. Remove Fuse #29 in the interior fuse box and see if the car will start without the ATCM powered. If the car will start with the ATCM fuse removed, then your problem may be solved, if it does not remove other vital functionality that you cannot live without. (This is how you disable that dreadful Intelligent Suspension Control System, which defaults to a better ride when you remove the fuse.)

    2. If that does not work, see if you can access the connector where the white/green wire on the ATCM is located. With a voltmeter and an assistant, check the pin voltage on that connector when the vehicle is started to see if it goes high (12 VDC) or low/ground (0 VDC). Once you determine this, you should be able to figure out if disconnecting this wire will provide the answer to your situation, or if you need to wire up a jumper wire to bypass the ATCM.

    But, based on the block diagram on 6E-96, there appears to be only one wire that ties the ATCM to the PCM, as an input that enables or disables the ignition.

    Do your own due diligence on this - this is just my take on it, and there may be differences between the diagram and your unit (although I have found this manual to be very accurate with no deviances.)

    Good luck. Hope that helps.
  • This sounds good, I will review the manual pages that you are referring to and then make some tests. I will let you know how it goes. Thanks for the reply !!
  • I looked up the information that you relayed in the shop manual. The references that you are referring to are for the Anti-Theft Control Unit which is different than the engine Immobilizer Control Unit (ICU) I do have some limited BMP files that show some parts of the ICU but not enough detail to disconnect this system. I will try to froward these BMP files to your email address, maybe you will have better luck. Hope so!
  • I would like to report that I just had my shocks replaced by my local Meineke shop in Anchorage Alaska, with good success. Old front shocks were leaking, and I was also getting tired of the bouncing and bottoming as mentioned frequently on this forum. I printed out posting #61 and gave it to them for information. I bought the new shocks directly from the NAPA store. I first went to, which allows you to input your vehicle, and then provides the parts you need. It came up with the same shock parts numbers previously mentioned, NS 37159 and NS 37160. They appear to be exactly the same as Monroe. The NAPA price was $47 per shock. (Bought the shocks directly to avoid a large markup quoted by Meineke.) I then took them to Meineke for installation. Labor was 3.2 hours total, at $98/hr, including one extra hour for disconnecting the electronics as discribed in walkthewalk2's posting. The whole process seemed very straight forward to Meineke. They said they had to cut some bolts because of rusting.

    On my brief test drive home, I was pleased at the ride, and the lack of bouncing on some large speed bumps in my neighborhood.

    Thank you to all for the good advice posted on this forum.
  • Thanks very much for the great feedback and also the tip about NAPA parts being cheaper. While I posted a lot of step-by-step detail on this procedure, it is BERT that deserves the credit as he did it first and posted it here first. So, thanks to Bert, too!
  • we did the oil change in jiffy lube and run without change the oil for 400 miles after that when the engine blew out because not oil in the engine. my question is i have to replace the entire engine or there another wayto fix it for this kind of vehicle .
    I really love this car please somebody answer me
  • Sorry to hear about what happened. I would guess that you had an oil leak or oil pump failure? I assume that this is not Jiffy Lube's fault somehow and they did not fail to fill the engine or properly tighten the oil drain plug?

    In any case, you have really only 3 options in my opinion:

    1. Rebuild your existing engine.
    2. Buy a used engine at a salvage yard
    3. Buy a new or refurbished engine from an Isuzu dealer or remanufactured engine supplier

    A long time ago, the same thing happened to me with a 70 Volkswagen Bug. I paid some local shade tree mechanic to rebuild the engine, but it only lasted for about two more years. So, i am not a big fan of option 1.

    Option 2 usually works well for most folks, as salvage yards typically offer a short warranty for the engines they sell. However, there is risk that the salvage yard engine has problems of its own.

    Option 3 is the best option if you can find a new or rebuilt engine. To get an idea of the cost for a new replacement engine, please contact Scarf Isuzu in Washington state, as they will offer you a better price usually. Then check on the Internet for rebuilt engines.

    Based on what I know about this vehicle, it does not look like a really difficult engine swap-out. It's rear wheel drive; there's lots of room under the hood; the Workshop manual is well documented; and so on. So, an engine swapout is probably the best bet.

    But, do keep in mind that given the blue book value of your Axiom, this whole thing probably doesn't make a lot of sense, financially speaking, unless you are doing this to avoid having a car payment for another vehicle.

    That's my two cents.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    If you purchased a rearview camera for your car, a reporter wants to hear from you. Please email by Wednesday, October 6, 2010 with your daytime contact information and your thoughts on the system.
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications


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  • Hi friends, I recently stumbled on this blog and am very happy. I know now I'm not the only Kook out there that loves the Isuzu Axiom. I have 2 Isuzus a 2002 Isuzu Axiom 2wd, brought brand new and have 41,000 miles. Babied the car since day 1. Overboard scheduled maintence. every 2 years changed brake fluid, tranny fluid, power steering fluid, differential fluid, antifreeze, spark plugs, pcv, air filter, fuel filter,etc.

    My daughter who gets jealous sometimes says I love the truck more than I love her,LOL.

    2. I always used 10W-30 in the engine, has anybody used 5W-30, I would like to know if the 5W-30 circulates more than the 10W-30 and possibly stops the ticking sound from the engine. My next oil change is in November and I wanted to see if this was a good idea.

    I can't remember how long ago the ticking sound started, but i don't think it was there when I bought the truck. It sounds at most times as if there is a diesel engine instead of a gasoline one.

    3. I also get the thump when starting from a stopped position though not all the time. (read in a different post that this wasn't a big issue and nothing to worry about) any thoughts?

    4. Also I defintely will try post #61, switching out the ISC for regular shocks, I'll probably try to do it in november, also did anybody have any inspection problems, did any trouble codes appear, or anything negative whatsoever with this modification, was the ride greatly improved, etc.

    I'm in NY and they hook up the car to a machine and test run on a dyno type machine to measure the gas output at the tailpipe. Also if there is a trouble code it's an automatic fail here in NY.

    5. The only problem to report is I had to change a speed sensor on the front drivers' side, of course to change the sensor I also had to get the bearing changed as it comes in a packaged together in one piece.

    6. I am also thinking about putting a Tow hitch on but can only find the round tube Tow hitch. I am worried about looks so I would prefer a hitch that doesn't stick out so much. any comments? If you have pictures of an installed hitch on an Axiom please e-mail them to me so I can see and decide.

    The second truck is an Isuzu Ascender 2005 4X4, good truck, no problems whatsoever. A Rebadged Envoy by GM , have it on the same 2 year maintence schedule as the Axiom, minus the fuel filter. I don't see one anywhere and don't know where it is. I assuming there's one inside the gas tank, does anyone know?

    The only problem I had is with the brakes, I'm the second owner and when I bought the truck it had uneven pads, I saw the pads that were installed were getting stuck, and all the aftermarket pads were getting stuck also, I filed down the top lip of the pads and no problems now, the pads wear evnly now.

    I also read that someone couldn't change the tranny fluid on the Axiom, I do all my own maintence on the truck and this was especially puzzling to me also. I came up with one of those garden spayers from home depot. I cut of the atomizer at the end of the wand and now pump the fluid in until it is full and leaking from the fill hole, I then idle the truck in neutral and continue filling until the fluid pours out of the fill hole again. It doesn't save time but it saves money on the tranny fluid and filter change and yes at times I get tired of pumping that garden sprayer but I like doing my own maintence.

    Thanks for reading and payiny attention future blogs wn't be so big as this one, because this was the first.
  • Hi Axiom068:

    Welcome to the forum. Let me try to respond to some of your questions

    2. I live in Florida and have used synthetic 5W-30 for some time. (usually Mobil One, but sometimes other syn. brands). It has no effect on the ticking, which I notice from time to time. I tend to warm up my Ax for at least one minute before driving it, which may help, but I note that if I get to the one quart low mark, the ticking noise is more prevalent, so it's a good audible reminder. My guess is that this is a really common problem inherent in this engine, that appears after the engine is broken in.

    3. The thump is a powertrain problem of some kind, probably fluid related. I was eventually able to get rid of it after getting synthetic gear oil added to the rear end and synthetic tranny fluid. Since both happened at the same time, I am not sure which did the trick. But, the problem only very rarely happens now. Almost never.

    4. Of the 3 or 4 of us who have made this mod to the shocks, everyone likes it. Bert was the first to do it; I was the second and wrote the detailed primer on it for posterity... it seems to work fine, and i never notice my shocks anymore. Before, with ISC, I used to ALWAYS notice the sproingy, sproingy ride, which I attribute to too high of a derivative in the PID loop settings in the firmware.

    As for the trouble codes, I do not know, since I am too cheap to buy a scanner, but I don' t think so. You can test it easily enough, as one of the steps required is to remove the fuse for the ISC system, which is mentioned in my posting. If removing the fuse posts a trouble code, then yes, but I doubt that is the case. removing the fuse de-illuminates the shock absorber trouble indicator on the dash, that's all.

    5. Never had to change a speed sensor. Sounds expensive. How did you know your speed sensor had failed? What were the symptoms?

    6. I had a black anodized round tube-style tow hitch installed at the local UHAUL place here. They did a nice job, and it was less than $200, as I recall. They install a universal wiring harness, too, inside the compartment on the LH side of the hatch area, behind the removable panel, with lots of spare cabling. It looks fine and does not stick out that much. The one they use fits perfectly around the spare tire, which is critical. The tongue of the hitch is removable, if you go out on the town... there is a stainless steel pin that you remove to take out the part of the tongue that includes the ball. If I get time I'll send you some pics.

    I am also one of the few Axiom owners with chrome round side tubes as well, which I had to have custom-made.

    7. The fuel filter for the Ax is on the side mounted in a bracket. Can say on the [non-permissible content removed]-ender. Ask your NAPA guy - he should know.

    8. Great info on the brake pads, but I must be a little dense today, as I don't really get it... what is it you are doing to the pads to get them to behave? I now have very expensive drilled/slotted racing rotors and expensive Akebono pads on my 02 2WD Axiom... still having that annoying squalling problem when you first step on the brakes, or when you are stopping on a decline. So, I would like to know more about what you are suggesting...

    10. Your garden sprayer idea is the best thing since velcro was invented!

    There are two holes on the tranny for fluid; one to fill and the other to check, which is slightly higher. So, using your idea, you could just fill until it comes out the top hole. In my opinion, most Ax owners are ignoring their tranny's fluid changes to their detriment, as tranny failures are the #1 problem with this vehicle. So changing it often with synthetic fluid is money well spent. I'll try your idea soon, as I like doing my own maintenance too... it pains me to spend $300 or $600 every time i need something fixed on my car.
  • I live in New York. lots of salt and harsh winters. I noticed entries about corrosion and am concerned. I'm going to go underneath and with a can of primer and some sandpaper with alot of elbow grease to fix the problem. I also noticed someone said something about undercoating. It is my belief that if you place undercoating you might be covering up corrosion and letting it get worse by not getting rid of it in the first place. In addition it will make it harder to inspect for corrosion in the future, so please be careful and make sure the corrosion has been eliminated before hand.

    walk the walk2, I thank you for you welcoming me, it is much appreciated.

    I now know that 5W-30 doesn't solve the ticking problem and am now stuck with a gasoline engine that sounds like a diesel at times. I agree when the oil gets low the ticking is at its worse, but it is also a great reminder to check the oil level.

    I also put synthetic gear oil in and the problem has subsided somewhat but not completely. As for the tranny fluid I use the pennzoil brand which is good, but I also change the fluid every 2 years.

    With that thumping sound, I noticed it after about 2 years of ownership. I took it to the isuzu dealer, which doesn't exist anymore, but I found the mechanic there especially knowledgable on the Axiom. The mechanic was a Woman with all sorts of service awards from Isuzu, I was impressed. But when asked about the 100,000 mile unbelievable fluid change, she stated you'll damage the tranny if you wait that long, she suggested every 4 years or 48,000 miles. As you can see I do it every 2 years just to make sure. And when you use the garden sprayer all you are paying for is the filter and the fluid, so it's not any great expense. Be careful in buying the garden sprayer, some of the sprayers have very little channels in which the fluid flows and would be very difficult to use with the thick tranny fluid, I brought the Roundup heavy duty sprayer and it works fine.

    But I also upgraded to the mightyvac MV7201. This thing is incredible. It suctions and evacuates at a flip of the switch and the pumping is considerably less than the garden sprayer. You can take the tranny fluid out of the bottle and then press in the directional control button, add a couple of pumps and in no time your tranny will be full with alot less of a mess and less effort. I brought 2 of them one I use for everything else because I'm just taking the fluid out and then putting them in jars get rid of the fluids. So, i'm not too concerned about fluid contamination. But the other one is strictly for the tranny.

    I will defintely try the shock upgrade but that will be in november. But it is a great idea about pulling the fuse and check for trouble codes. I will do that probably this weekend and will let you guys know the outcome.

    I do have 2 scanners which are very good. I have an Innova 3130 scan tool, which when you get a trouble code theres no looking in a book to find out what it means because the machine automatically tells you, it's wonderful. The price was around $130 something from amazon, I think. But compared to the other scanners like the scantron, this is worth it. It also does many other things that should please you.

    I also have an OTC ABS Reader II, this was expensive, it was about $450 on ebay. But it's great. It reads all the airbag codes- Abs codes-- and OBD codes and again you don't need to look up codes because the machine tells you. And yes that how I knew my ABS sensor was bad and which one it was. The ABS light came on and it showed the code and which sensor it was.

    But, one thing about the ABS code reader. From what I gather after the year 2000 Isuzu pretty much stopped issuing software for their trucks, so software for after the year 2000 is very rare. In fact I've never seen it, but heard about it.

    I also brought the dealer level workshop manual from helm publishing listed in the owners manual, extremely complete tells you everything. It also points out that Isuzu is using the GM Tech II scanner (TOO expensive for me), which lead me to believe all the electronics in the isuzus after 2000 are all GM codes. The OTC Scanner only has codes for up to the year 2000 for isuzus (mind you isuzu specific software), but goes up to 2005 for GM and I found using the scanner that the 2002 Chevy Jimmy and the 2002 isuzu Axiom have the same trouble codes, it's amazing I tell ya. Also for the 2005 Ascender I can also use the scanner using either the GM codes for the Envoy or the trailblazer it doesn't make a difference.

    In addition to get back to walk the walk2's question--- The speed sensor for the ABS comes toether with the bearings, I was able to purchase the whole unit from Timken for $110 from my local parts store (no pepboys, no autozone, etc) a real honest to goodness parts store where people know what there talking about, not young kids looking up part numbers and giving you the wrong part anyway, but of course the pepboys and autozones of the world have their place. Either way the part listed for $330 and I got it for $110 plus my own labor. If you do this kind of job get ready with a torch and a 5lb sledgehammer because you'll be whacking away at this thing for quite some time to get it off.

    to back track a little, inaddition to the synthetic fluid in the differential I also changed the rear brake drums and the rear brakes. This is where autozone came into play. I brought the Beck Arnley's drums from amazon. These are not the ones to buy. Amazon even let me post a warning against buying those for the isuzu. Beck Arnley somehow got the center hole dimensions wrong and it wont completely sit on the wheel. I went through this whole thing with Beck Arnle until the fessed up they were wrong and unfortunately at the time they had over 200 units in stock the same way. But autozone does have the right part and it fits perfect, albeit way more expensive, I think it was like $80 for 1 drum.

    But to continue the story with the rear diff. when i replaced the rear brakes I noticed they were glazed over and basically the same height as the replacements (?). I guess the rear brakes weren't being used at all. But when I changed the brakes and the drums everything went back to normal. The thud is very slight at times and not as hard and most times it doesn't happen.

    For the hitch there's one on ebay for $102. I'm going to order it and let you guys know how it came out. It's a curtis hitch with round tubing. I'm not to crazy about it, but it looks the same as the hidden hitch model. And the hidden hitch model in this instance it's not really a hidden hitch it protrudes from the back like I believe the curtis model will do.

    Also I saw a rodeo with the u-haul hitch and it protruded out a little bit and is very noticable. Is yours very noticable?

    Chrome round side tubes, huh--Flashy. But yes I have those also. The ones I
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