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GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali



  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    Can you tow with a supercharger or would it put too much strain on the engine?
  • larry91larry91 Posts: 189
    What does Lingenfelter offer for the Denali and how much?

    John did two engines for me about 8 years ago. He did a great job, but my Vette was at his shop for two years. I haven't talked to him in a long time and didn't know he had a performance modification for the Suburbans.
  • orwoodyorwoody Posts: 269
    I haven't dealt with Lingenfelter directly and did most research via their site and reviews. It's been a while since I visited their site. It's changed quite a bit and doesn't have as much info as before. They are listing the superchargers for the 4.8L, 5.3L and 6.0L at $5150. It doesn't say if the package is installed or just the supercharger kits: - 5&pf%5Fid=544

    I was looking into them as they offered a conversion for the Sierra C3(now Sierra Denali) and they were going to offer packages for the Denali/XL. Back then the prices for the supercharger and some other treatments were in the $9k to $10k range. I decided to go with the Denali, am quite happy with it and didn't pursue supercharging.
    My dealer had a Supercharger that they were/are offering but I can't remember the mfr off the top of my head - I recall it was also in the $5k-$6k range.

    For lobsenza - supercharging is okay for towing - some race guys will supercharge their trucks used to tow their race vehicles and supplies to gain the power and avoid having to buy another rig. With proper installation(the kits will sometimes have upgraded parts for the engine) and aintenance there should be no problems.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    is the HP rating of the trans. You wouldn't believe the addtional strain placed on the trans with the increased HP.
  • orwoodyorwoody Posts: 269
    Good Point, the transmission and some other driveline, suspension parts could be affected which is why it is good to work with someone who has experience converting and gives a guarantee. May also need or desire an upgrade to brakes.
  • Take a look at this link to see the torque and gear ratings of the transmission in the Denali (and other products). s/4l60.htm

    Not sure if adding a supercharger would exceed the max torque ratings since I have not found any dyno graphs. Anyone have dyno data?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    a mechanic shop owner friend of mine just told me this story when playing a round of golf on Tuesday. They had installed a SC on a 01 Yukon with the 5.3, rear locker and 4L-60E trans. The had completed the work on Friday evening. Saturday afternoon he gets a call from the owner of the Yukon who said he thinks he blew the trans while doing a burnout. Upon inspection on Monday, they found that the torque converter was shot and the rear locker shattered into thousands of pieces.

    If I were to add a SC to either the Denali or the Silverado that I own, I'd seriously consider one of these to go along with it.

    Course you'd have to upgrade the rear end too.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    More GM incentives announced.

    Steve, Host
  • The Lingenfelter kit installed kit is about $15k. That includes a magnacharger, headers, exhaust, hypertech programer, and transmission kit.
    I put a magnacharger SC on my 01 DXL. $4300 installed by by my local GMC dealer. I too was a little concerned about the transmission, considering the problems some have encountered. So far I have not had any problems. During the summer I tow a boat. With the SC it feels like the boat is not even there.
    As for speed, average 0-60 is about 7 seconds. Top speed is unknown but I have had it to 123MPH (w/ proper speed rated tires). Where I live I have not been able to find a dyno that can accomodate the all-wheel drive. I guess about 100 HP increase as magnacharger indicates.
  • What kind of mileage do owners of Denalis report? I have a 'burb (w. the 5.3 liter) and get around 17. Between the bigger engine, and AWD, what kind of mileage penalty is there?

    Also, with all the incentives out there, how much off sticker would constitute a good deal?
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    We get about 13.7 around town in a DXL.
  • orwoodyorwoody Posts: 269
    Lately with winter gas(10% ethanol) my around town mileage dropped to 13-14mpg from 14-15mpg. My highway trips have yielded from 16-20mpg. Since my freeway driving is rarely less than 65mph I believe that if stuck doing 50-60mph I would get near 20(or more) consistently.
  • orwoodyorwoody Posts: 269
    here is link to Lingenfelter web page refer to 1755
    per the kit they do quite a bit of modifying to the engine, new camshaft, pistons, HD rod and bearings, and also replace the torque converter. Tranny rebuild is extra. It does come with 2yr/24k warranty.
    at $15700 it's almost double what they advertised when I first looked at them about 2 years ago. (but you do get the Lingenfelter name)
  • jtbuffjtbuff Posts: 25
    Get 14.5 around town on my DXL. On the one trip we took around 16 mpg. Only have 4000 miles on it.
  • hut2hut2 Posts: 4
    Around town I'm getting 14.9 - 15.2 consistently. Of course, my 'around town' is very flat (Delaware) and rural (few traffic lights). Highway yeilds 16.8 - 17. All of this is on an '02 DXL with 19k since June and regular oil changes with synthetic oil.
  • ahesqahesq Posts: 6
    Follow up to my post regarding front differential whir/whine:
    It turns out that the front differential unit was low on gear oil (about 1 pint), but showed no signs of any leak. How could it come out of the factory like this? In any event, the noise is now 90% gone with 2100 miles and a topping off of gear oil.
    I only wonder if any damage was done to the gears.

    I don't know the front diff capacity in order to evaluate. Is one pint a lot??? Your thoughts would be welcome.

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I'd be more concerned on how the vehicle left the dealership low on fluid than the factory. Afterall, they are suppose to check the fluid levels as part of the prep that they charge for.

    Being lazy myself, I didn't bother to check the quantity of fluid required for the front differential. It is included in your owner's manual if you really wanted to check. I'd keep the receipt of what the dealership did as far as adding the fluid in case there was any long term damage done. There must have been some amount of additional wear as the sound or whining would indicate. How much additional wear would be impossible to predict.

    I would recommend that you have the differential unit drained and replaced with fresh gear oil as whatever extra contaminants that was created during this whine is still in the fluid acting as additional abrasives....something which you don't need.
  • Just hit 6k (Denali) and did a 250 mile all highway trip this weekend (flat roads). Got 15.2 mpg with cruise set to 76. Why such a low mileage? Was burning 87 with proper inflation (just had the car aligned that day) and burning a winter blend. It was about 10 degrees outside.
  • Not sure but I think there was a TSB on this and they were supposed to change the front diff. lube to a thicker one. A number of things could have cause it to be one pint low from the factory, but like it was posted before the dealer should have caught it during the prep process. A pint is 1/4 of 1 quart or 8oz.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    A pint is 1/4 of 1 quart or 8oz.

    I'm sure that's a typo - there are two pints in a quart.

    tidester, host
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    1 pint = 16 ounces = 1/2 quart
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Driveline - 4X4/AWD Driveline Characteristics

    File In Section: 04 - Driveline Axle

    Bulletin No.: 01-04-18-001A

    Date: October, 2002


    Driveline Characteristics For All-Wheel and Four-Wheel Drive Systems

    2003 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
    with All-Wheel Drive (AWD) or Four-Wheel Drive (4WD)

    This bulletin is being revised to update the model years, models and information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-18-001 (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle).

    The purpose of this bulletin is to help explain the operating characteristics of 4WD/AWD systems.


    AWD vs. 4WD

    The very basic difference between AWD and 4WD is the intended usage of the systems.

    AWD is usually intended for on-road use in inclement weather conditions, while operating smoothly on dry pavement by allowing for a difference in speed between the front and rear axles while turning. These systems do not have low range gearing for the transfer case.

    4WD is intended to be used in low traction or off-road situations. Part time systems do not allow for a difference in speed between the front and rear axles while turning. This system effectively locks the front and rear propeller shafts together. When turning, the tires must slip to allow for the different turning circle of the front and rear axles, which is why this is intended for low traction or off-road use. These systems have low range gearing for the transfer case.


    Part time 4WD refers to vehicles equipped with a transfer case to split power between the front and rear axles of the vehicle. This traditionally is a 2-speed selectable transfer case that can be shifted into 2H1, 4H1, 4L0 and usually a Neutral position. There is no device to allow for a difference in speed between the front and rear axles. Examples of vehicles with this style of transfer case would be a Silverado with a manual shift transfer case (a shift lever on the floor) (RPO NP2) and a Sonoma with a push button transfer case with a 2H1, 4H1 and 4L0 position (RPO NP1). The RPO codes for this style of transfer case are NP1 (NVG 233, 243, 263) or NP2 (NVG 231, 241, 261, BW 4401, 4470).


    A second version of a 4WD transfer case is a full-time 4WD transfer case. This style of transfer case has an open differential to allow for different speeds between the front and rear axles and operates similar to an AWD system. This transfer case can be locked to operate like a 4WD transfer case and or uses a traction control system to assist in low traction situations. An example of this type of 4WD is the H2. RPO code is NR4.


    There are two different categories of AWD Systems. The first category is true AWD. This type of transfer case divides torque to the front and rear axles at all times. This ratio can vary depending on the system, but is usually 30/70% front to rear split but can vary depending on traction conditions, up to 100% front or rear. This type of transfer case can have a viscous coupling along with a planetary gear set to allow for difference in speeds between the front and rear axle or an open type of planetary gear set differential. An example of a vehicle with this type of transfer case is a 2002 Denali. RPO codes for this type of transfer case are NP3 (NVG 149, BW 4473) or NR3 (BW 4481).

    The second category is an on-demand AWD. This type of AWD basically delivers torque only to a primary driving axle until a slip event occurs. At that point, the system electronically or mechanically will apply torque to the axle with traction. Depending on the type of system, this can provide up to 100% of the torque to the axle with traction. These transfer cases use an electronically actuated clutch pack, a hydraulically actuated clutch pack, or a viscous coupling to allow for a difference in speed between the front and rear axles. An example of an electronically controlled version of the On-Demand AWD is in the Smart Trak system in the 2002 Bravada. An example of a hydraulically operated On-Demand AWD is the Versa Trak system in the Aztek. The RPO code for the Bravada is NP4 (NVG126). For some vehicle lines, there is not an RPO code. The only way to tell is by the Line Chassis VIN code B or V for the Rendezvous/Aztek, V for the Venture/Montana or by SM for the Vibe.

    Automatic Transfer Cases

    The last category is a combination of 4WD and On Demand AWD. These transfer cases have a 2H1, AWD, 4H1, 4L0 and Neutral position and would fall in the general 4WD category. This transfer case has the operating characteristics of both an On Demand AWD and a 4WD system depending on the mode selected. This transfer case uses a clutch pack to allow for a difference in speed between the front and rear axles in the AWD mode. In the 4H1 or 4L0 modes, there is no allowance for the difference in speed between the front and rear axles. An example of a vehicle with this would be a Sierra with a push-button transfer case with a 2H1, AWD, 4H1, 4L0, and Neutral positions. The RPO code for these transfer cases is NP8 (NVG 236, 246).



    A part time or automatic 4WD transfer case will make - more noise while operated in 4H1 and in 4L0 (a full time 4WD will operate similarly in 4H1 lock or 4L0 lock). This noise can vary depending on the transfer case type, GVW ratings (generally the higher the GVW the more noise it will make), vehicle build variations, gear ratios in the axles, axle type, tires, and importantly driving conditions. This type of system's intended use is on loose traction surfaces such as a dirt road, mud or snow. If this system is used on hard packed surfaces such as dry pavement, driveline binding will occur because there is no device to allow for the different speeds between the front and rear axles. This will cause noise in the axles, transfer case and the rest of the driveline, and will usually increase the more the vehicle is turned. As the vehicle turns, the front and rear axles follow a different arc. When this happens, the only way to compensate is for the tires to slip, which will feel like the vehicle is crow hopping or grabbing. Even if the vehicle is driven in a straight line, there are slight differences in tire circumference that will cause some driveline binding. If a vehicle had the exact same size tires and was driven in a perfectly straight line, the fact that more parts are moving would mean that there will be more noise.

    When driving in 4L0, the extra gear reduction will make additional noise compared to driving in 4H1.

    While the transfer case is in Neutral, with the engine running, some noise can be expected. When the transfer case is shifted from neutral with the engine running, some gear clash can be expected.


    AWD systems are designed to be used in high and low traction situations. These systems will generally be quieter on high traction surfaces than a similar 4WD used in 4H1 or 4L0. However, these systems will make m
  • dxl1dxl1 Posts: 9
    Could be a TSB on it, but they really seem to be having an issue with the front diff. I had mine replaced (about 12,000 miles) and the whining went away. It was making me nuts ... of course my ex-girlfriends would argue with the "making" part of that.
  • dxl1dxl1 Posts: 9
    I get a pulsation kind of like sitting by a sub-woofer @ 30-45 MPH. Dealer said they called tech support and that was a normal occurance. Anyone else have experience with this issue?
  • jboaterjboater Posts: 199
    I bought a pre-owned 02 YD two weeks ago, 14k miles on it. I've run 2 tanks of reg fuel and am averaging 12.5 mpg on roughly a 50/50 mix of city and x-way driving. This is in line with the expectations I had but seems to be noticeably lower than some other posts here. Are these other posts exceptions to the norm or is there something I can do to enhance my mpg?
  • dxl1dxl1 Posts: 9
    Sounds like you are running a little low on the MPG. Mine does around 13.5 with city/hwy driving.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    I'm getting 12.9 combined 70/30 highway/city since day one.
  • orwoodyorwoody Posts: 269
    Well, after 34k miles and almost two years I'm experiencing my first nuisance issue with my 2001 Denali. The front passenger speaker on the door has developed a metallic resonance/buzz at certain AM frequencies.(I listen to the news and road report on my commute.) It's not constant but I want to remove the speaker cover and check it out. Does anyone know if the cover just pops off or ?
    I don't want to screw it up trying to remove it.
  • ahesqahesq Posts: 6
    Guess this is why I was an English major. The amount of gear oil I added to the front diff was a little over a quart, (not pint as mentioned earlier). It's a good thing we didn't get into liters!!

    In any event, I have appt. with dealer to flush and refill front diff. We'll see how that works.

    Don't see a TSB on this (yet)
  • Hi, everyone. Just thought I'd share my experiences with my 2002 Denali (now with 12K miles):

    Transmission was slipping @ 4000 miles and was replaced.

    High frequency buzz from speakers that got louder as the rpms increased due to a bad wiring harness.

    Rear vibration/buzz @ 40mph due to a bad exhaust heat shield.

    Leak from front differential due to loose connector.

    Condensation in 3rd brake light.

    Wrong emissions decal on engine with 5.3L info instead of 6.0L info.

    It was disappointing to find these problems and other damage caused by the dealer while it was with them during repairs. Also disappointing that the dealership doesn't provide the level of service expected when one buys a $50K vehicle.

    However, I still believe this a lot of truck for the money and that its a better buy than the other luxury SUVs on the market.

    I appreciate reading all your problems/solutions and will continue to share any problems/solutions I experience.

    Oh, has anyone had any problems with their power steering? I'm beginning to hear noises when I turn the wheel while parking.

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