I had to have the truck flashed again. The mechanic found all sorts of spikes in the readings from the torque converter and the clutches. The fluid pressure and temp are within the tolerances. He seems to think it is the celanoid. Right now we are witing on the enginees at Dodge to decipher the readings.
I will keep you posted. The 2009 Ram's are absalutly wonderful trucks to drive (minus the shudder). The comfort zone, the safety features, the power, the pulling power, the driveability puts the 09 Rams in a class of its own.
Wondering, I was told that my truck did not need to be flashed with a new Jasper Trans? Is this true? A dodge truck with a jasper trans...Should the cooler pump on the trans be replaced at the same time as the trans is being rebuilt? Is that part of the package? Do I need to put different PCM/TCM on this jasper than I would on a dodge trans? If so which ones?
Hi Dusty, had the mechanic come get the truck Saturday, he said he thinks it is the valve body, so he towed it back to his shop 60 miles away. I thought it was getting hot and not shifting to 2nd. or 3rd. Turns out it does it when you take off cold too. I would think this would of been checked out and cleaned completely during the rebuild? My question is also that Friday before he picked up the truck, I disconnected the battery cables cleaned them and took off in the truck, everything shifted fine, parked it try the next day to drive it and again only 1st, and reverse gears. It really reves up but wont change into the 2nd or 3rd gears. Do you think this is still the valve body?
The computer program and algorithms reside in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), not in the transmission itself, so, yes, in a general way regardless of the fact that the transmission was disassembled and put back together by whoever, is not a reason to reflash. One caveat. Correct operation assumes that the transmission was rebuilt with components that meet the original manufacturers specifications. Unfortunately, many transmission shops will use random aftermarket materials, including some coming from offshore where a part may look identical but may not contain the same material or manufacturing specifications. Many shops are trying to maximize their profit margins by using cheaper kits and individual components.
With respect to computer reflashes, since your vehicle was originally manufactured there have been a number of computer reflashes available, some dealing with long term reliability. Check with your dealer for more information.
I'm unclear regarding your reference to a "cooler pump." The transmission contains a pump which supplies hydraulic pressure to operate the clutches and torque converter. Mopars in general aren't hard on pumps and a lot of shops tolerate signs of use because they seem to hang in there. Pump replacement should be determined by component inspection and mileage. If the pump components are worn to or beyond manufacturers specifications, then a pump replacement is prudent. If you brought a '96 Dodge Ram to me with 100,000 miles and I found the pump gears, reaction shaft, bushing and associated parts showed signs of scoring or wear, I would not complete a rebuild without replacing the affected parts.
Keith, it's hard for me to judge since I'm physically not there. However, based on the symptom description and my experience it is a very likely suspect.
I do not want to cast aspersions on your transmission technician. Even in the best of circumstances, things can go wrong with an otherwise quality repair. A lot has to do with the technicians personal view and repair process. In my opinion, the real quality shops are obsessed with cleanliness, including using lint-free cloths, submersion cleaning, and clean repair and assembly areas. Trust me. You cannot over clean an automatic transmission!
i have a 2000 dodge ram 1500 pick up, i got into the truck today and it would not shift into the last gear, it seems like it is stuck in o/d, it shifts from 1st to 3rd whithout a problem, and as im driving i can turn the o/d on and off and it does nothing, is it something electric or somthing internal please help
i have a 2000 ram auto and my trans does the same thing, everytime my gas gets below an 1/8 of a tank it will not come out of first gear, i can drive it from full to empty and it will be fine but as soon as i shut the truck off with it being on empty it will not come out of first,, so if it is low on gas try that dont know if it will work but give it a shot
Ok, we have a truck that wouldnt shift from 1st to 2nd and drive, rebuilt tranny, still not working. Replaced all sensors, still not working, guess what it was???? The mechanic pulled off the protected coating around the wire that leads to a sensor, about 3" back from the sensor the wire was damaged. He replaced the wire and now the truck runs as good as new. Everyone please check your sensors and wiring before dumping any money into your tranny. Good Luck!!!
Yesterday my truck started shifting late. On a normal take off or start it don't shift till after 3000 rpms. on a fast take off it red lines. I had sensors replaced for not shifting a couple years before. what could this be?????
Well I found out the long and hard way that if your truck is not shifting into 2 or drive and stays in 1st. try to disconnect the negative battery cable then the positive, keep them both off for a couple of minutes. Put back on the pos then the neg and this will reset everything and you should be able to atleast get back home, however, once you turn off your truck you will have the same problem again. This is a sensor problem.
I too replaced all the sensors 3 times, also the tranny 3 times. Check your wires and battery cables, have the sensor checked out. You cant see all the wires cause they have a protection guard on them, pull it back and inspect all wires and clean the connections even if they look good, Even the battery cables. Check your fluid also. I found a great Mechanic in NM. Dont let anyone in southern Colorado touch your truck, they always want to replace the whole tranny, when it is a sensor prob.
Hi. My truck has been acting strange for a little while now and has gotten a little worse-basically, it seems to shift fine, but while cruising along any little movement in throttle pedal position, either lifting up or pressing down, will cause the rpm's to jump approx 500 and it seems like it is searching for a gear. It has recently gotten even more sensitive and I've noticed that it hasn't acted this way 100% of the time. In reviewing some of these posts, I'm hoping it's a Throttle position sensor or perhaps control module update problem, seeing as how it shifts fine(until the position gets all whacked out, then it doesn't know what to do and might occasionally slam into gear. Any help would be appreciated-thanks.
Just an idea, check your speed sensor, located about 7 oclock on drivers side on the tranny. check all wires, pull back protected coating and check the wire from end to end. This will effect your RPM and cause shifting problems. Dont know much about truck, leaner as I go.
99 Dodge Diesel 2500 with 54,000 miles will not shift from 1st to 2nd unless I let off the Throttle a little, then it will shift. I had a problem about 1 year ago where it would not down shift to 1st when you came to a stop. This problem is just the opposite. Could it be a sensor? Chuck
hello, i just rebuilt my 46re due to a burnt out front band. anyways, i was very carefull, clean, and methodical about rebuilding the unit and the valve body. i also put in all new bearings and torque converter, as well as all new governor/overdrive/lockup solenoids and sensors. also i installed the basic transgo shift kit that most do.
so, i took it out for the first run and i've got 1st and reverse, but that's it. i checked governor pressure and it's 0psi. i checked the vehicle electrical harness using my old solenoid/sensor leftovers and found that the pcm is properly operating the solenoid/sensor combo, but i still have no gov pressure. before i pull the valve body again to physically check the new solenoid/sensor combo, can anyone tell me how this circuit works? from what i can see, line pressure is fed to the gov. pressure test port and solenoid. the solenoid releases part of this pressure to obtain gov. pressure at the test port. if this is correct, which is what i can gather using compressed air to check, then 0psi at the gov. test port should never happen even with a faulty solenoid/sensor. right?
hope there are some good mopar guys on this forum cause this really has me stumped. everything on the valve body/case looks good to me.
Sounds like the magnet. These are placed in the transmission pan to attract metal particles and prevent them from being circulated in the fluid. Its also used as an indication of potential problems based on the material found on the magnet. They are ususally covered with the gray silty friction material from the clutches. This is normal.
Could be either. Check the operation of the O/D switch. When switched on and off, does the O/D indicator lamp in the instrument cluster illuminate? If not, you have a problem in the O/D switch circuit. Most of the time the problem is the switch itself.
Dusty, Yes you would think so, however the two different mechanics that I went to both did diagnosic on it and couldnt find a problem in the sensors or wiring. But when I took it to the Dodge dealer again 2 days ago for the same problem ( not shifting into 2 or 3) they ran a test and found the problem in 10 minutes. Because they have all the new updated software that most mechanics dont. He put a computer on it and started it and put it into drive, he said the rpm jumped way too high and was telling my computer on the truck to do all the wrong things. Also get this! The 1st mech that installed my Jasper Transmission, installed the cooler pump in the wrong location using a zip line, causing my radiator to become damaged and leaking, now I have to have that relocated properly and a new radiator installed and coolants, looking at about 700.00 to 800.00 more. Fun huh? I guess when I get done everything should be new, unfortunately I had to pay for 3 trannys and then some other things that I didn't need either in the process. Ive learned alot about things along the way. And thank you for all your help and advise for steering me in the right directions.
the light comes on and off , the truck is just stuck in o/d off, i replaced a sensor cause the check engine light was on but it did nothing but turn the light off
97 2500 cummins 5.9 4speed overdrive lost 5th gear had updated nut replaced on n/v 4500 trans at trans shop.went touse 4wheel drive. nothing there. please help?
Keith, well I'm truly sorry to hear of your bad experiences. There are people in the transmission repair business that shouldn't be, and unfortunately you've found two of them.
Independent shops most usually have a DRB2 diagnostic scan tool nowadays, but I'm not aware of one that has the DRB3. Dodge dealers will have the DRB3, and this tool has more diagnostic ability. Of course, there are some that may not have the technical ability to understand what the scan tool is telling them.
Making some assumptions, I still find it odd that an open sensor circuit could not have been detected even with an older tool.
The other thing, too, is the unfortunate bias against Chrysler/Dodge in this particular industry. Despite the fact that all manufacturers use an automatic transmission that utilizes some sort of electronic control, Chrysler was the first. Independent shops never liked the fact that special electronic diagnostic equipment was needed and have taken their revenge out on Chrysler ever since.
Prior to the A604, transmissions would just be taken apart, parts inspected, and anything that looked bad was replaced with little or no actual diagnosis performed. Many would not be fixed right the first time and need to be taken apart again. Some shops would take pressure readings that could help determine the problem source, but many shops would just say the tranny needed a rebuild and leave it at that. Of course, there's more money in it for the shop if they do a rebuild rather than just clean and maintenance a valve body or adjust the bands.
I hope your truck is now, at least running fine for you. Good luck and Happy Easter.
Did you find out what was wrong with your transmission not parking and shifting late from 1-2? i have the same problem both happened at the same time. i removed shift link and tried to manually put the trans in park but that did not work. and it is still shifting late from 1st to 2nd. please let me know what fixed your problem.
Well mine was able to go into park, first and reverse just fine all the time. The problem was not shifting into 2 or 3 gears. I replaced the speed sensor located on the tranny, driver side, about 7 oclock. Check the wiring from end to end under the protected coating. Clean your battery cables, even if they look clean. By chance see if this works for you - disconnect your negative battery cable then your possitive-wait about 2-3 minutes. replace possitive and then the negative, this resets your computer and may allow you to shift until you shut off the truck again. If so, this will allow you to know if it may be a sensor or electricle problem, not mechanically in the tranny. Go to the dealer and have them do a diagnosis on it, they will find the problem for about 90.00. Other shops dont always have the up to date scanners, so they may miss it. Good Luck
I bought this truck last week, the previous owner said it would not drive in 1st gear, he took it to an independent shop that changed the Governor Pressure Solenoid and valve, put a new pan and gasket in, and they got 1st back but 2nd shift started coming very late and 3rd-Overdrive won't shift at all unless you put it in neutral while you're going 50-60 mph, wait until the RPM's die down, then put it back in drive and watch it "gear hunt" for a few seconds. This does not always work, it does one day, all day, then the next day nothing.
Ran the codes, it gave me Transmission Speed Sensor and Clutch Lockup Solenoid. Replaced the TSS first, did a lot better for a short time, the nothing. Rather than continue to throw parts at it, I took it to the dealer here in Nashville.
They're telling me that it is only getting 3 psi out of the governor pressure port on the test machine. They tell me it's the PCM, that it's not commanding the valve to open.
How likely is this diagnosis, before I throw $700 in parts and labor at a PCM?
I rebuilt a 1998 dodge ram 1500 2WD transmission. After the shop installed it, they bought the truck to me because the OD light will not go off. How do I check the transmission temp. sensor, and OD switch. I rebuild transmission on the side, and I know what I am doing, but this one has me stumped. Thanks
If it wasnt for Dusty and Carspace, I would still be in the dark, Dusty knows what he is talking about. As for buying a dodge? Im dissapointed that they know of their tranny problems for 15 or more years, but wont fix them or recall them. Maybe this is why they are in the situation their in now. The engines are great and strong, they just need to install a Allison or Jasper tranny or fix theirs. What a concept? Something that actually works and lasts.
Rich, i used to be a service advisor for a local Dodoge dealership before it went out of business. any ways PCM diagnosis is not uncommon for the issue you describe. My advice to you would be to get a second opinion from one or two more Dodge dealerships. If the diag is the same then replace the pcm. If so since the PCM is salty in price see if they will work with you on labor charges cuz it only takes about 30 mins to remove, install and program the new PCM. They will probably try to charge you 1 hour of labor or more. Or see if they will work the diag time into it. Also you may be able to purchase a rebuilt PCM from Dodge but DO NOT BUY a used one from anywhere else because ususally there are programming issues especially if from a salvage yard. Good luck hope I helped,
Thanks, I appreciate the insight, but what you are saying is to go and pay the $100 diagnostic fee again at another dealership? Or two?
My beef with this is, first, none of that gets credited towards the repair cost and second, that if there is still a problem, I just shelled out $1,000 and didn't even get a rebuilt transmission in the process.
I can do a PCM removal and installation, I already pulled the plugs to check for corrosion, it's not a difficult fix, I just don't want to throw hundreds of dollars at a problem unless a dealership is going to guarantee it will fix the problem OR they will credit the ENTIRE amount towards a transmission rebuild if it doesn't.
This is my first trip to a Dealership in 7 years for ANY car, and this is exactly why. I want them to 100% stand behind their diagnosis with a money back guarantee or I'll take it elsewhere... They don't seem to want to do that, hence the question to see if someone who wrenches on these thinks this is reasonable with the symptoms or if I'm likely to do the PCM swap then still have problems, especially since the 1-2 shift is a MECHANICAL shift and it's coming very late, sometimes not at all unless I put it in Neutral first and the last 2 days I can't get it into 3rd or higher at all...
Spoke with the transmission tech directly this morning, and he admitted that he had no way of really knowing what the problem was, he was guessing at the PCM.
The Pressure Solenoid is not putting out more than 3 psi. This is caused by a bad solenoid and/or valve (which were both just replaced), a bad Valve Body, or the PCM not commanding the solenoid to remain open until sufficient pressure is obtained.
Guess the only thing to do is to find a used, good condition PCM to put in the truck to test before I go tearing out the pan and replacing the valve body...
Hi guys. Trans pan went bad so I replaced it along with the filter and fluid,all Mopr parts. 300 miles later, I backed out of a parking place, took off down the road and just as it shifted it went to neutral. I still have reverse. I droped the pan and filter and found some dirt. I figured the new fluid acted like detergent. I pulled the governor pressure seloniod and found the screen to be badly plugged. Could that be the problem, or sould I look deeper ?
:confuse: I have a '00 Ram 1500 4x4 Quad Cab with the 5.9L. It has around 120,000 miles on it. I noticed that the tranny seemed to be slipping or not engaging properly in 1st and reverse. I also noticed a "groan" sound when backing. I changed the filter and adjusted the rear band. When I drive it, it will take about 3 to 5 seconds and then it will grab and go. I can come to a stop during normal driving and it will take off and shift as normal then maybe the next time it will hesitate again. It seems to be shifting fine through the rest of the gears. Are there any simple checks that I can do to troubleshoot this? There are no stored codes through the OBDII. Should I have the whole thing flushed?
Looks like your looking at getting ready for a rebuild. the clutches are getting thin. Pull the pan to see what is in the bottom, if the pan looks clean, try a new filter and fluid. give this a try , if it doesnt work, it more than likely will have to be rebuilt.
Hi Guys, I'm having an issue with my auto transmission not shifting out of 1st. Tranny was rebuilt at 40,000 after a front pump failure. Now at 88,000, all I have is 1st and reverse. It won't shift up from 1st, just revs up like theres no other gears there. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bob
I replaced both the govenor pressure sensor and transducer they were $218 from the dealer and it was very easy. I know a guy who worked at the dealer and said they are bad for those 2 sensors he did help with the job it only took us bout 2 hours. The transmisson shop wanted to rebuild the whole thing it pays to know somebody i guess it saved me $2800.00. Definietly try that first my 01 has been fine without problems for 2 months now best of luck!
been awhile since i was on hear my buddy that was the one from the dealer said that it was normal mine had some to but he said it was nothing and not to worry he said the transmissions are good transmissions it is just all the electrical components that screw it up, Hope everything is going well!
That's what I was afraid of. I already pulled the pan and it had what I considered normal "dust" in the bottom on the magnet, no visible chunks. The fluid still had good color and no burnt smell. It seems to grab and go fine when I manually shift it into 1. I guess that I will take to a tech and have them look at it. Thanks for the help.
I have a 95 cummings with a transmision that was rebuilt 6,000 miles ago. It always did do a partial lock down but it is getting worse. It doesn't seem to make any difference if I am towing or not or if it cold or not. I have been living with it because my last 3500 (same set up) did it as well and a friend of mine told me he was so iritated with his that he traded it off. So, is there an adjustment somewhere that someone can do to help this?
Hi Bob, went throught the same thing, I would highly recommend taking the truck to the dodge dealer, the dealers may costs alittle more, but its worth it in the end. They have the up to date scanners, that others cant get. Anyway, I fixed mine finally by replacing the speed sensor on the tranny. Check the wires under the coating from end to end, check battery cables for good connections. Try this! Remove negative cable then possitive cable, wait 2-3 minutes, replace possitive then neg. Try to drive it and see if it shifts now? This resets computer. Only lasts till you turn off truck again. May get you home-or out of a bad location. Good Luck.!
Well, tried a known-good replacement PCM from a friend from church and, of course, nothing changed. Looking for low-mileage used tranny now, rather than a rebuild, as I only drive 8k-12k a year and that would last me several more years.
So much for the STEALership, there's a reason I didn't go there for ANYTHING for the last 7 years, and why, likely, I won't go again for ANOTHER 7 years. Or more. I'd have just thrown $700 away and not solved my problem.
Good luck to the rest of you. With this many transmission problems, I am now of the opinion that Dodge cannot be trusted with their automatic transmissions. Manual shift from now on with Dodge or buy a Ford.
lear 70, sorry to hear about your truck, I too have been thru this, however I replaced the tranny 3 times before I figured it out. So I feel that it is your speed sensor, located on the tranny itself, driver side and about 7oclock. Sensor is pretty cheap compared. But let me tell you, if you can disconnect your battery cables, this resets your computer, connect cables back, should drive normally now, just until you shut it off again. I bet its that sensor or the wire maybe damaged as mine was, however you cant see the wire because it is under a protected coating, so pull it off and check the wire from end to end. You can replace the sensor yourself. Be sure your battery cables are clean, clean, clean...Let me know.
Comments
I will keep you posted. The 2009 Ram's are absalutly wonderful trucks to drive (minus the shudder). The comfort zone, the safety features, the power, the pulling power, the driveability puts the 09 Rams in a class of its own.
The computer program and algorithms reside in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), not in the transmission itself, so, yes, in a general way regardless of the fact that the transmission was disassembled and put back together by whoever, is not a reason to reflash. One caveat. Correct operation assumes that the transmission was rebuilt with components that meet the original manufacturers specifications. Unfortunately, many transmission shops will use random aftermarket materials, including some coming from offshore where a part may look identical but may not contain the same material or manufacturing specifications. Many shops are trying to maximize their profit margins by using cheaper kits and individual components.
With respect to computer reflashes, since your vehicle was originally manufactured there have been a number of computer reflashes available, some dealing with long term reliability. Check with your dealer for more information.
I'm unclear regarding your reference to a "cooler pump." The transmission contains a pump which supplies hydraulic pressure to operate the clutches and torque converter. Mopars in general aren't hard on pumps and a lot of shops tolerate signs of use because they seem to hang in there. Pump replacement should be determined by component inspection and mileage. If the pump components are worn to or beyond manufacturers specifications, then a pump replacement is prudent. If you brought a '96 Dodge Ram to me with 100,000 miles and I found the pump gears, reaction shaft, bushing and associated parts showed signs of scoring or wear, I would not complete a rebuild without replacing the affected parts.
Best regards,
Dusty
I do not want to cast aspersions on your transmission technician. Even in the best of circumstances, things can go wrong with an otherwise quality repair. A lot has to do with the technicians personal view and repair process. In my opinion, the real quality shops are obsessed with cleanliness, including using lint-free cloths, submersion cleaning, and clean repair and assembly areas. Trust me. You cannot over clean an automatic transmission!
Regards,
Dusty
Chuck
so, i took it out for the first run and i've got 1st and reverse, but that's it. i checked governor pressure and it's 0psi. i checked the vehicle electrical harness using my old solenoid/sensor leftovers and found that the pcm is properly operating the solenoid/sensor combo, but i still have no gov pressure. before i pull the valve body again to physically check the new solenoid/sensor combo, can anyone tell me how this circuit works? from what i can see, line pressure is fed to the gov. pressure test port and solenoid. the solenoid releases part of this pressure to obtain gov. pressure at the test port. if this is correct, which is what i can gather using compressed air to check, then 0psi at the gov. test port should never happen even with a faulty solenoid/sensor. right?
hope there are some good mopar guys on this forum cause this really has me stumped. everything on the valve body/case looks good to me.
What year and engine do you have?
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
Oh, boy!!!! That problem should have easily been caught by connecting a DRB3 diagnostic scan tool. Did your technician do that?
Regards,
Dusty
help please do i need a rebuild ?
Yes you would think so, however the two different mechanics that I went to both did diagnosic on it and couldnt find a problem in the sensors or wiring. But when I took it to the Dodge dealer again 2 days ago for the same problem ( not shifting into 2 or 3) they ran a test and found the problem in 10 minutes. Because they have all the new updated software that most mechanics dont. He put a computer on it and started it and put it into drive, he said the rpm jumped way too high and was telling my computer on the truck to do all the wrong things.
Also get this! The 1st mech that installed my Jasper Transmission, installed the cooler pump in the wrong location using a zip line, causing my radiator to become damaged and leaking, now I have to have that relocated properly and a new radiator installed and coolants, looking at about 700.00 to 800.00 more. Fun huh? I guess when I get done everything should be new, unfortunately I had to pay for 3 trannys and then some other things that I didn't need either in the process. Ive learned alot about things along the way. And thank you for all your help and advise for steering me in the right directions.
Independent shops most usually have a DRB2 diagnostic scan tool nowadays, but I'm not aware of one that has the DRB3. Dodge dealers will have the DRB3, and this tool has more diagnostic ability. Of course, there are some that may not have the technical ability to understand what the scan tool is telling them.
Making some assumptions, I still find it odd that an open sensor circuit could not have been detected even with an older tool.
The other thing, too, is the unfortunate bias against Chrysler/Dodge in this particular industry. Despite the fact that all manufacturers use an automatic transmission that utilizes some sort of electronic control, Chrysler was the first. Independent shops never liked the fact that special electronic diagnostic equipment was needed and have taken their revenge out on Chrysler ever since.
Prior to the A604, transmissions would just be taken apart, parts inspected, and anything that looked bad was replaced with little or no actual diagnosis performed. Many would not be fixed right the first time and need to be taken apart again. Some shops would take pressure readings that could help determine the problem source, but many shops would just say the tranny needed a rebuild and leave it at that. Of course, there's more money in it for the shop if they do a rebuild rather than just clean and maintenance a valve body or adjust the bands.
I hope your truck is now, at least running fine for you. Good luck and Happy Easter.
Best regards,
Dusty
Dusty
*Throttle Position Sensor
*Low hydraulic pressure; clogged filter or low transmission fluid. If this is a V8, there are two filters.
*Bad connections at the transmission or PCM electrical connectors. Check for signs of moisture or corrosion at the terminals.
*Bad battery
Regards,
Dusty
*Overdrive circuit fuse is open
*Open O/D electrical circuit to the PCM
*Rear Wheel Distance Sensor in the differential is defective
*Defective Throttle Position Sensor
*Bad electrical connections at the transmission or PCM. Check for signs of moisture or corrosion at the terminals
*Low hydraulic pressure; clogged filter or low fluid level
*Weak or defective O/D solenoid; Overdrive Piston stuck
*Valve body dirty; stuck valve(s)
Regards,
Dusty
First, thanks Dusty for your time, I greatly appreciated reading through this long thread and finding the many avenues to pursue.
1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 46RE Transmission, 177k miles, never rebuilt.
I bought this truck last week, the previous owner said it would not drive in 1st gear, he took it to an independent shop that changed the Governor Pressure Solenoid and valve, put a new pan and gasket in, and they got 1st back but 2nd shift started coming very late and 3rd-Overdrive won't shift at all unless you put it in neutral while you're going 50-60 mph, wait until the RPM's die down, then put it back in drive and watch it "gear hunt" for a few seconds. This does not always work, it does one day, all day, then the next day nothing.
Ran the codes, it gave me Transmission Speed Sensor and Clutch Lockup Solenoid. Replaced the TSS first, did a lot better for a short time, the nothing. Rather than continue to throw parts at it, I took it to the dealer here in Nashville.
They're telling me that it is only getting 3 psi out of the governor pressure port on the test machine. They tell me it's the PCM, that it's not commanding the valve to open.
How likely is this diagnosis, before I throw $700 in parts and labor at a PCM?
Thanks,
Rich
My beef with this is, first, none of that gets credited towards the repair cost and second, that if there is still a problem, I just shelled out $1,000 and didn't even get a rebuilt transmission in the process.
I can do a PCM removal and installation, I already pulled the plugs to check for corrosion, it's not a difficult fix, I just don't want to throw hundreds of dollars at a problem unless a dealership is going to guarantee it will fix the problem OR they will credit the ENTIRE amount towards a transmission rebuild if it doesn't.
This is my first trip to a Dealership in 7 years for ANY car, and this is exactly why. I want them to 100% stand behind their diagnosis with a money back guarantee or I'll take it elsewhere... They don't seem to want to do that, hence the question to see if someone who wrenches on these thinks this is reasonable with the symptoms or if I'm likely to do the PCM swap then still have problems, especially since the 1-2 shift is a MECHANICAL shift and it's coming very late, sometimes not at all unless I put it in Neutral first and the last 2 days I can't get it into 3rd or higher at all...
Thanks,
The Pressure Solenoid is not putting out more than 3 psi. This is caused by a bad solenoid and/or valve (which were both just replaced), a bad Valve Body, or the PCM not commanding the solenoid to remain open until sufficient pressure is obtained.
Guess the only thing to do is to find a used, good condition PCM to put in the truck to test before I go tearing out the pan and replacing the valve body...
Any other ideas?
I'm having an issue with my auto transmission not shifting out of 1st. Tranny was rebuilt at 40,000 after a front pump failure.
Now at 88,000, all I have is 1st and reverse. It won't shift up from 1st, just revs up like theres no other gears there.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
So much for the STEALership, there's a reason I didn't go there for ANYTHING for the last 7 years, and why, likely, I won't go again for ANOTHER 7 years. Or more. I'd have just thrown $700 away and not solved my problem.
Good luck to the rest of you. With this many transmission problems, I am now of the opinion that Dodge cannot be trusted with their automatic transmissions. Manual shift from now on with Dodge or buy a Ford.