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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Well seeing it's the driver side, I would suspect the wiring when it enters the door.The opening and closing the door has probably broken the wires.
  • wborenwboren Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem, any positive feed back on this? any help would be great
  • neccomechanicneccomechanic Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Chevy S-10 Crew Cab Pickup. The fog lights and ashtray lights are not working, I checked the bulbs and fuses and they seem to be fine, is there a relay that could be cusing this problem? Also the window control switches are not working in the passinger and rear doors, but the the windows roll up and down fine by using the drivers side controls. How do I fix this? :confuse: and is it linked to the fog lights and ashtray light not working?
  • cbowlescbowles Member Posts: 5
    Hey. I have the exact same problem as you on my s15. Everything was working fine, until I decided to replace my license plate light sockets and bulbs. Now my parking/ running light stopped working but my signal and break lights still work???

    Did you find a solution????
  • cbowlescbowles Member Posts: 5
    I have an annoying light problem, having trouble fixing!
    My license plate lights weren't working so i decided to change the sockets and bulbs, apparently big mistake. Now my drive lights in the front and rear are not working along with my dash lights and passenger side courtesy light. But my break/signal/reverse/head lights are all working perfectly. Im thinking this may be a ground issue..... need help!
  • sean1999sean1999 Member Posts: 7
    I am having to guess here but if you have a trailer wire harness attached, it may have rubbed and grounded itself out. Ground issues on the S series seem to be an issue and with a bazillion grounds it is tough to trace which is the culprit. Also I have heard that putting bulbs in that are not the exact appropriate bulbs will jack up the system as well.
    I love my S10 but the problems are frustrating. Its a truck. It should be simple. Good luck and let us know what you find.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I also point to a ground issue... I just fixed one on my truck involving the turn signals in the rear. Might try and see if you can locate an electrical schematic to see what is tied into what (that may or may not help since a lot of things are tied into one thing or another depending on what is being used or not used), or just start tracing wires. I would start at the license plate lights since that is where the problem started and go from there. Trace all the wires connected to them and see if there is a wire rubbed bare or corroded.
  • esw03esw03 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 S10 ZR2. Last night I changed one of the headlights while the truck was running, so the daytime running lights were on. After changing the headlight, the power windows, cruise, heater mixing whatever (?) won't work, and the ABS light is on all of the time. I have checked all of the fuses and breakers and they are all ok. Does anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong. Thank you in advance.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Try removing the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes, maybe a processor will reset.
  • esw03esw03 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks "gonogo" !! Believe it or not, a couple of hours after I posted the question, the problem just went away. It worked great until last night. I started my truck and all of the previous problems had returned. I unhooked the negative battery terminal for about 30 minutes but it didn't fix the problem. Does anyone have another idea.
    Thanks again!!
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Intermittent uh. Check for power at the fuses where you have lost power. Cruise , HVAC etc. The ignition switch maybe the problem, not the key one, the electrical one.
    If you can tell me which fuses don't have power, I maybe able to trace it to the ignition switch.
    A 12 volt test light is real cheap.
  • elmo7elmo7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 S10 V6, I need to find the oil pressure sensing relay
  • q48q48 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 S-10 4.3 4WD. The problem I have is the tachometer flutuates(pings) whenever I hit passing gear or go above 2300 RPM. It also flutuates when going downhill or letting foot of accelerator and then reapplying until engine catches up to tach speed. I had alternator, crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor and distributor replaced. Tune up is all new (plug, wires cap and rotor). New transmission was done 3000 miles ago but problem existed before. I really need an answer to this because I drive 100 miles every night to work
  • gmcs15mangmcs15man Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1988 GMC S15 and the tail lights/ dash lights dont work with the engine on or off. I checked all the bulbs replaced them and put them in and turned the headlights on and the fuse kept blowing. ive checked every other fuse and they are fine. I realize that it is a short in a wire somewhere but I have looked everywhere from the taillight sockets to the cab behind the fuse box and havent found any shorts. what should I do?
  • dbrady1dbrady1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 S10 with the 4.3 X-vin MT, when i let up the e-brake, turn the headlights on, perss the brake pedal or sometimes when i put the truk in reverse i get what seems to be a circut overload. Some times the radio will turn off and then back on, sometimes the truck will bog down like tis got too much fuel, and sometimes the enire truck will turn off if i let the idle get to low when it bogs. And very raily (but is has happened), the truck will turn off and on all on it's own while driving down the road without touching anthing at all. Ive been messing with it for months, battery good, alt. good, changed the light switch and check all the connections under the dash and all the body grounds and they are all good...any suggestions?
  • monsonmonson Member Posts: 5
    i have a 1995 sonoma s15 which has been a very good truck, 3 months ago i would turn on the turn signal and both lights would flash. i did some checking and someone said to check the bulbs. the cleaarence light was burnt out so i replaced it and the problem was solved. now i have the same problem when you turn on the tailights there is none, when you hit the breaks the light comes on and stays on but is dim. you then have to turn off the headlights. also the clearence lights are very dim. we also noticed the tailights would flash and then the top brake light would flash. it looks like a squad car going down the road. lite bulbs are basically dim. any feeedback or ideas i just got the vibrations fixed on the car. whether it has nanything to do with it t he car radio has power but no sound comng out of the speakers
  • mickeymouse2mickeymouse2 Member Posts: 161
    Dim lights are usually caused by bad grounding. Take a jumper cable and connect one end to a known good ground. Connect the other end to various places on the chassi near the lights and see if that makes them brighter. Also look for loose connections or a loose fuse for that circut. If your brake light is sticking on, it is usually a faulty brake light switch. First fix the dim light problem though.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I second the bad ground. I had an issue a few months ago with a bad ground. It dealt with the turn signals. When I would use the signals, it would basically make all the lights in the rear flash in someway. The reverse lights wold flash like a turn signal, the license plate lights would also be part of the pattern. In short the rear lights had issues when I used the turn signal.

    I traced it to a bad ground under the rear frame right before it branched out to the trailer wiring. Check the wires coming from the lights and then under the truck. Especially check areas that are exposed and prone to road and water grime, or even under the hood where heat and oil can possibly affect them.
  • monsonmonson Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info guys i"ll try the grounds to see if i can find something. i did notice the front turn signals are bright so there is no problem with them. I just figured they wee on the same circuit as the tailights but evidently not. i wasnt sure what grounds to be looking for but now i have an idea where to start.
  • jima3jima3 Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 S-10 4wd with an automatic transmission. When you get the tuck moving the it appears to be okay, but when you put you foot in the gas to pull out, the RPMs go up to 3K but it doesn't shift gears. The fastest this truck will move is 40 MPH. The other interesting thing is the MAS keeps trowing a P0101 code. I replaced the MAS and traced the wiring back to the PCM.

    Could this be a bad PCM?

    :cry: :sick:
  • dbrady1dbrady1 Member Posts: 2
    Where would i find the ECU on a 97 s10 pickup LS?
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Not sure on a 97, it is either under the hood on the passenger side or behind the glove box.
  • bruce1313bruce1313 Member Posts: 3
    I have recently bought a 99 Sonoma SLS, my problem has to do with the brake lights. It's seems if I turn off my truck under low light conditions, my brake lights, on the box (not the one above the window), remain on. I checked the bulbs, they are the correct ones. I am thinking it may have something to do with the automatic light sensor. Anyone else run into this problem?
  • madmattermadmatter Member Posts: 2
    edited February 2010
    Hi, this is my first post!
    I drive a 2000 Chevy S10 with a V6 motor. The truck has issues. Over the past 3 years there have been 5 one week periods where the truck does not want to be started. Here is a rundown of what happens.

    First I open the truck door. Then I sit down and close the door. I turn the key sometimes I turn it fast and sometimes I turn it slow. While turning the key slowly the truck goes through its normal starting phases. It shuts off all the unnecessary electrical systems, then right before the engine turns over it gives off one, two maybe thirty clicks (think video game machine gun sound) then the truck dies.

    When I say the truck dies everything goes out it loses all power. The horn doesn't sound, the power locks don't work etc. Once dead the truck demon does one of two things. It may flicker all the speed/rpm/gas gauges then a few seconds later it magically turns on or the truck stays dead. The truck stays dead for up too two hours before magically regaining power.

    The weird part. If the truck stays dead and I connect it too another vehicle via jumper cables. This seems to give it a better chance of a successful start (although the battery is fine) And even when connected via jumper cables it may still die, but if I wiggle one of the jumper cables, the truck instantly snaps back to life for me to chance another start. It takes an average of 20 start attempts before the truck will start and that's with or without the jumper cables.

    So an overview of the Electrical Demon, I turn the key, the truck dies (electrically dead), I either A wait or B fiddle around with the battery connections to try and arouse the truck back to life. Once the truck regains electrical consciousness I turn the key again cross my fingers and hope it starts. If I don't turn the key to the start position, the truck is usually fine (although not always). If I use jumper cables the truck seems to respond better by starting sooner. It takes up to 30 tries for a successful start. Once it has been started successfully It runs fine until I shut it off.

    Need Good Advice Soon Sincerely,
    MadMatter
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    If you say the battery is good, then I would look at the battery cables. It sounds like what you are describing is actually a bad battery, or the symptoms of a bad battery. So if your battery is indeed good, then look at the connections. I suspect this is your problem because you say the truck runs fine after getting it started so the issue isn't with the alternator or the connections after. It is between the battery and the starter. Even if the cable looks good, there still might be corrosion inside the cable that is not visible. Check there first and see if that solves your problem.
  • madmattermadmatter Member Posts: 2
    When I say the battery is fine, I mean to say the battery is charged. It holds a charge fine, but I am unsure if the battery has some undetectable issue (internal short-circuits) or if the cables are corroded on the inside. Everything appears to be fine on the outside. I did have an amplifier and a new CD player installed two years prior. The amp is 200 Watts which is very small in my opinion. I do not know if this installation is somehow related to this problem since this problem existed before the amp was installed.

    Some other magical happenings with the truck:
    1. The lights inside and outside the truck flicker with the music on the radio.
    2. The lights inside and outside the truck flicker even with the radio off.
    3. When the gas gauge is below 1/4 of a tank the abs light comes on. There is no problem with the anti-lock brake system. The sensor is incorrectly working and seems to be correlated with the gas gauge in some way.
    4. The horn works half of the time, when they test it in the shop it works and when I need it on the road it doesn't. The shop said the horn was fine. I know from experience that is only fine when it wants to be and when I want it to sound it refuses.

    If you were to witness all these events and know the truck as I have come to know it you would be certain it was haunted. This truly is not the case but the issue seems more complex than the cables being bad (although it would make sense if they were. The battery could be bad but this is the second battery in a row that has been faulty. I'm wondering if the truck could make batteries bad or if batteries are bad before they are put in the truck.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    edited March 2010
    Hmmm... I still lean towards cables. At least as a place to start. A bad cable connection can cause a battery to go bad. You might also have a bad ground somewhere. That would cause lights to flicker when a load is placed on them - i.e when your radio is on. A bad ground would also cause lights to flicker with no load placed on them. Check you major grounds. A bad ground wire from the battery to the starter is one place to start. Also check the ground from the alternator. I'm not an electrical genius and I am pretty much shooting in the dark, but if there are several systems going wonky, then I would check at the main sources of power - the battery and the alternator. You could have a bad alternator too. That won't help with the starting issue because that is a battery only system, but a bad alternator could be causing the flickering too in that it won't be able to keep voltage up when a load is placed on it. It could also cause a battery to go bad in that it doesn't send enough juice or amperage back to the battery to charge it fully... It's a vicious cycle. Check cables. Replace them if needed. Have the alternator checked out. It's not uncommon for them to go bad.

    I have an amp on my system and have had for about 5 years and have never had a flickering problem. I had a 500W amp and now a 250W amp and the lights don't flicker at all when the truck is running and only slightly when the the truck is off. Make sure the amp is properly grounded to the frame or floor of the cab. I am on battery #3?? Maybe #2 since I have owned the truck (7 years) and alternator #2. The only time I had an issue was right after I put in alternator #2 and the cables weren't tightened properly. I had starting issues exactly like you described. I cleaned all the connections to the battery and the tightened them all up and haven't had an issue since.
  • agrivateragrivater Member Posts: 2
    edited March 2010
    :confuse: I have a 99 chev S-10, it fires up and runs for about 2 seconds then dies.. As long as I squirt starting fluid into it it will continiue to run, and before yu go to the obvious. It has great fuel presure!! Something is telling it to shut the fuel off..

    My "security light" flashes 3 long single, followed by 2 quick tight flashes.. Does anyone kno what this code is trying to tell me?? Or does anyone kno where I can find a list of the code definitions?? :sick:
  • agrivateragrivater Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 chev S-10, it fires up and runs for about 2 seconds then dies.. As long as I squirt starting fluid into it it will continiue to run, and before yu go to the obvious. It has great fuel presure!! Something is telling it to shut the fuel off..

    My "security light" flashes 3 long single, followed by 2 quick tight flashes.. Does anyone kno what this code is trying to tell me?? Or does anyone kno where I can find a list of the code definitions??
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    This thread tells you all the fixes for the security won't start issue, you like to read.

    http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=454520
  • c2cpc2cp Member Posts: 11
    I noticed that there is water leaking somewhere around my fuse box under the dash on the drivers side. does anybody know how i can unhook the fuse box from the wall? or has anybody else had this problem?
  • bruce1313bruce1313 Member Posts: 3
    Well I seemed to have solved my problems, I discovered I had a loose ground coming off of my battery. I tightened the connection and my issue has disappeared. :shades:
  • mgjameianmgjameian Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    My wife's 2000 Chevy S-10 wouldn't start, after sitting for a couple days. I connected jumper cables to her battery and the engine cranked without putting the keys into the ignition switch. Is this a starter, ignition or alternator problem?
  • dave8697dave8697 Member Posts: 1,498
    It has a lighting problem. No dash or radio lights at night. The radio lights up in the day. When I first got it 3 years ago, there were no interior lights so I got a new headlight switch. When I put it in, I had dash lights for 1 second and then they were dead again. The switch fixed the interior and dome light problem. I ended up mounting a small 3 led light strip wired to the extra cig outlet. I point one at the tach, one at the speedometer, and the 3rd one at the radio and vent panel.

    I also had a water leak that showed up in constant wet carpet and I couldn't ever find it. One day I was pulling up the carpet and was running the hose all around the rear window, the 3rd brake light and then hooked it under the windshield wiper and let it run for 30 minutes. No water ever came in by the pass side footwell where it always got wet. I gave up that day. It turned out that I fixed the leak. By flooding the vent cavities by the w/s wipers, I must have floated away som leaf or something that was blocking a drain port. It allowed the cavity to stop overfilling and somehow backing up into the cabin. Been totally dry for 2 months now. I pulled out the console and seats and dyed the carpets black right after that. It came out nice. I mixed a 39 cent box if dye in an empty spray bottle and just sprayed it and rubbed it in with a washcloth.

    Also had the intake manifold gaskets replaced by a local mechanic. They were bad at 111k miles. Common on 4.3 L at 100k.

    Now I need new front tires and I might have the same mechanic fix the a/c.

    My last tank of mixed driving was over 21 mpg with lots of congestion on I-70 due to construction. I was about to dump it over the water leak problem.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    you might be blowing a fuse for the dash lights, or there is a bad ground somewhere... electrical's on these vehicles (or any vehicle for that matter) are terrible gremlins to get and track down once you've got them.

    I can attest to the intake manifold leak. Mine did that too and a buddy andn I replaced it at about 130K miles, although it had been leaking for several thousand before it finally went all the way and started dumping coolant down the front of the block....
  • dave8697dave8697 Member Posts: 1,498
    I punched it coming off an interstate ramp a year ago on a icy morning and when I parked it at work it was pouring coolant onto the ground. Stop leak never really worked and the leak got worse this spring. It was $400 well spent. Lucky I didn't freeze the water jacket this past Feb. because keeping a 50% mix was getting expensive. The mechanic I used was 1/2 mile from my house and beat the Chev dealer by $290 on price.

    I gave up on the electrical problem. I looked at wiring diagrams but there are multiple buried relays and the day/night sensor could even be part of the problem. I even put in a new dome light and brake light. The red 3rd brake lens gets a split from sun or heat from the brake light bulb, and water gets into the wires there. There have never been any other electrical issues. The Sonoma battery terminals don't corrode like my Astro.
  • johnstajohnsta Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 s10 pickup and i am having a problem with my high beam indicator. My high beams work fine but my high beam indicator doesn't turn on and off. What i don't understand is that if i just turn the key to turn the power on the indicator works fine. Once i turn the truck all the way on it stops working. Any help would be greatly appreciated, my inspection is out and where i live that indicator has to work to pass inspection.
  • fireman46fireman46 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    I have a 2002 Sonoma Pickup. Can anybody tell me what the proper reading is for voltage gauge? Mine used to read on 14 or bit more. Now it reads less than 14. Had it checked everything is normal but I still feel its not right. Can anybody help. Thanks.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    The voltmeter should be reading right at about 14 amps (straight up in the middle) while the truck is running. If not, it either means faulty gauge or faulty alternator. If you had it checked the test should have shown that the alternator was drawing about 14 amps. If it reading less, than it is not working right and a sign it is going out. Another good test is to see if the head-lights dim while the stereo is running or when you turn the AC compressor on.

    I have a 10" subwoofer I am running in my truck and I can crank it without affecting the lights while the truck is running. Simple setup, no caps so it draws all its power through the alternator.
  • gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Mine runs in the middle or above if it sets too long.

    "Everything checks normal", do you mean at least 14 volts at the battery with headlights high beam on,HVAC blower an AC on, radio on with 1500 rpm.
  • dusty007dusty007 Member Posts: 4
    Ser, Did you ever find out what was causing your problem? I too am having the same problem...thank you in advance for your thoughts and solution....
  • holy_rollerholy_roller Member Posts: 4
    I had a 2.2L that did something similar, talked to some people that had had the same problem and gone so far as to change the main relay and ECU out and still had the problem. I gave up and sold mine.
  • topgunn40topgunn40 Member Posts: 1
    Need schematic or advice. Dash switch works, compresser clutch works, but can not check wiring without schematic or advice. Is there a relay somewhere? THANKS for any help!
  • stumannstumann Member Posts: 7
    Tell us what the problem is, then maybe we can help.
  • jmoatsjmoats Member Posts: 2
    Did you ever find the location of the pwr door lock relay(s)
  • cristina0529cristina0529 Member Posts: 2
    Do you find the Power door lock relay?? Would you please advise as to where it can be found?? Been looking... Thanks
  • cristina0529cristina0529 Member Posts: 2
    Any help would be greatly appreciated ... Where in the world is it!?!
  • jmoatsjmoats Member Posts: 2
    I did not find a relay, BUT in the fuse panel was a 30 amp circut breaker(silver in color) which powers the door locks and the non existant rear window defoger. There is also one of these circut breakers for the power windows. I have scanned in the pictures from the book i have but cannot attach them here. My e-mail address is jtjsm@cox.net please feel free to contact me there.

    Jon
  • chrisg98s10chrisg98s10 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem. I replaced the same
    senscors and it still does it. Did you ever figure out
    what it was cause I def need help with the same
    issue. Please help
  • dusty007dusty007 Member Posts: 4
    Wish I had good news for you...I have a 01 Yukon, once turned off and just sitting the bright light sensor and cruise lights come on and stay on...If I start it everyday...it starts! Let it sit for two days it is drained...I did replace my battery and that helped as driving everyday. I have had 3 mechanics take a look...and nothing without spending $$$$$ lots of it to find the draw. Wish I had the answer...If you find out please let me know too....Dusty
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