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I had checked the fuse block and noticed that the turn signals and the hazard warning were separately fused
Changed fuse, turn signals work fine. I wonder what caused that fuse to blow. There was no lightning or any other suspicious event near the time the turn signals stopped working
Thanks for your quick reply. I will still be sticking my head under the dashboard to see where, and how accessible, is the flasher unit
The garage I use has keep my 1996 Sunfire running happily for some time.
I had not noticed that my backup lamps are on same circuit as the turn signals.
Apparently a backup "combination bulb and alarm" (the likes of which I have installed on my cars for many years) was drawing too much amerage and blowing the fuse. They charged me an unconscionable $83 to diagnose and change the bulb back to a standard type.
Then they told me that transmission fluid was leaking at the half-shaft connection. What little oil/grease I saw there was not red and was not dripping. They insisted it was a serious matter they could correct for about $400 (or only $360 if they did the work right then), otherwise I might suddenly lose all my transmission fluid and totally wreck my transmission. I declined that service. And I'll not be returning to that dealer ever again.
My suggestion is to look at asashop.org for a decent garage in your area.
Hope you can help me. Thanks in advance.
Sherry
I also found and removed a GPS tracking system that was an aftermarket installation somewhere in the life of the car, probably when it was either a fleet or lease. Anyways, there are two questions here, how do I re-activate the DRL's (bulbs and relay good) and how or what do I reset to get all of these lights to go back out? Ones staying on are ABS, Low Fluid, Brake, Oil, Temp...
Thanks in advance for the assist.
Any assistance in getting the air bag light out is appreciated.
This is to the best of my memory. I'm not a mechanic. It is just for reference.
Before starting get a new motor. If you don't have a drill you will need one and drill bits to drill out Rivots. You will need a Rivot tool and 3/16 inch (this is what I used) Rivots from Home Depot or Menards. You will need some sockets or wrenches and a screwdriver.
First thing to do is unscrew the plastic piece that is holding your mirror turner on the top corner of the door. Then take the screws out of the door on the arm rest. Then take the screws out of the back edge and bottom edge of the door which holds the inside door trim to the door.
Carefully pull the bottom door trim from the door. If it doesn't come easy, check for more screws, don't force it. After the bottom pulls out lift trim up. Now disconnect the power line pieces from the door trim. Put the door trim piece to the side.
Now to be smart, take the power line from the old window motor and connect up to the new motor as you are holding it. Now try to use the window up/down button. If it works on the new motor and not the old, it is a motor issue. If it doesn't work on the new motor you have electrical problems and I can't help you.
Now pull the plastic sheet from the door metal. I just left it up and pulled the parts away that I needed to work on. Now it is kind of scary, you're thinking this looks too complicated. Take it easy it's not that bad!
Take a few minutes to look over the door. You will notice that the window is bolted to a metal bottom piece by two plastic tabs. You need to unscrew the window tabs from the metal bottom piece and remove the window. The window can be pulled out toward the outside of the car. Don't force this. If you can't do it for what ever reason, take it easy and think a solution through.
Now that the window is out. You can see that the motor is connected to the frame by five rivots. These rivots have to be drilled out. The way I did this is get a big drill bit and just start drilling until the rivot head is cut off. There may be a better way, I'm not sure.
After the rivots are drilled out, you will need to take two bolts off that are connecting the window brace to the door. Take these two bolts off.
Now pull the entire metal window frame (regulator) and motor out of a hole on the inside of the door. You will see that the regulator and motor are connected by more rivots (you may want to take out your digital camera and take a picture of how these are put together to reference later). Drill out these rivots. Now you can throw out the old motor (make sure you take the top metal bracket off the old motor and use two rivots to rivot on the new motor).
Connect the regulator and new motor back together and rivot them using the rivot tool and rivots. Make sure they are connected together real tight. (They make washers to use with the rivots, I highly recommend using these washers to make sure the rivots are as tight as possible.
Now that the regulator and motor are connected you can slide it back into the same hole in the door you pulled it out of. the odds are that the regulator and motor won't match up to the holes in the door, don't panic. Just connect up the power supply and move the door button up or down until you get the holes to match up. The up/down buttons will move the motor and regulator until they both are positioned to the door rivot holes.
Now that it is in position, slip a rivot in and use a washer at the end of the rivot to insure a tight solid rivot. After rivoting all 5 rivots, you can re-bolt the regulator to the door with the two bolts. Now is a good time to give a quick trial run with the window motor. the window tab bolts may hit the motor, don't worry about that.
Now move the window up/down to where you can get at the metal window bracket where the bolts will go.
Insert the window from the outside of the door. Match up the tabs on the bottom of the window with the bolts on the bottom metal frame of the window regulator. Tighten the bolts connecting the bottom metal from to the window. Now test window for real. Window should go up and down all the way.
Now reconnect all electrical connections to the door trim panel. You have to do the top of the door panel first to push it real close to the window, then connect the sides and bottom. Make sure all the little plastic tabs match. Take your time and do it right. If it doesn't match up pull it out and try again. You may need two people for this process. After trim is in, re-screw all screws and you are done. Clean up the mess.
Congrats, you just saved $200-$250.
Any ideas anyone ?
Thanks
jrmn
I just bought this car and a friend is helping work on it after he gets off work. He checked all fuses of course with tester all good and is now starting to trace the wiring clean/check all connections. The longer it takes him the more money I owe him! If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it very much! Thank you!
Its a 2000 chev cavalier with automatic locks. When I open the driver's side door it doesn't register that its open (i.e the light doesn't come on and the radio doesn't turn off and it doesn't beep if I leave my headlights on) and if I lock it with the automatic key (which sets the alarm) the alarm sometimes goes off since the car thinks the door has opened or something. So I've just been double checking that I turn off the lights and I turn off the radio manually. And i've been locking it without the alarm so that it doesn't go off randomly.
Has anyone had this problem? Not sure if its electrical or not.
I have the exact same problem. Did you ever find a fix for it? Anyone else know what this is? I tried all the fuses in the panel, none were bad.
UPDATE: I found that the flashers switch was gummed up a bit. I sprayed some WD-40 into it and worked it back and forth about a dozen times, and the brake lights and flashers work fine now.
Thanks!
I'm having a similar problem
Thanks for any suggestions.
I'm having the same problem.
Any help would be appreciated.
NOTE-When it happened the last time it started right up for them the next morning when they had it towed. They replaced the ignition switch since nothing seemed wrong with it.
Now I've driven it for 3 days since then with no problems, and then it does it again to me tonight.
Please help - tell me I didn't just buy a clunker..... :-(
Thanks. Brian Mac.
i have a 2002 cavalier
Brian Mac.
Its the one thats 5 fuses down, the fourth one from the front of the car. Its a red 10.
I had the same problem after i replaced my starter, so i went fuse pulling to see if any blew.