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In my removal I broke it down into hoses cables and the bolts and a couple more hoses when you get the manifold separated from the engine.
From memory, I get up on the engine and look behind the engine to the top of the block. You ll see a Y type hose going to the idle air valve and another metal tube that runs along the top of the block. Try and get some pliers on the hose clamp to the metal pipe side, remove this hose clamp only The other two sides do not need removed. Now your going to remove hose clamps on the valve cover. The largest ones in the middle of the cover next to the intake on the intake manifold. Theres two on the left valve cover and one on right valve cover. That is all the hoses for now
I switch to throttle cables next, the three on the right side of the engine. The two upper ones that go into the firewall must be removed, leave the other one alone. That one goes to the other side of engine throttle plate, and stays on the manifold when you lift it off. The two nuts are 14mm size. Use two wrenches and turn the nut on the firewall side of cable while holding the nut on the end of the cable side. If it doesn't move, you have your adjustment for later. Then lift cable off from between the metal clamp by open the throttle by hand at the lever next to these nuts and slide the end of the cable out of the slot made for removal. Then re-tighten the two nuts back together. I re-tighten the nut you loosened to the one that never moved.This is your adjustment point when you reinstall it. I mark this nut on the top with red paint for a reference in case it moves a little.
Next is the EGR valve. It can be hard to get to the tube that runs down to the exhaust manifold. I used a 90 degree nut wrench. like those plumbers wrenches but lighter and smaller. Open it up to 15/16 and put on with the wrench towards the front of the engine and try to break it loose. Dont have to remove it completely. It helps to have all the wires on the valve cover out of the way. Then get the other end of this tube at the EGR Valve, it is 1 1/4 size.
Back to the hoses I missed the vacuum booster hose and its clamp on the top backside of engine and fuel regulator hoses.Its down under the manifold on the top of the block by the Y hose and the other fuel regulator diaphragm hose is next to the Idle Air Valve (IAC) on the back of the engine too but higher up on the left side as you sit in the car It pulls right off. One more hose clamp to be removed is on the front of the engine right side comes from the bottom of the manifold into the hoses you removed in the first paragraph. It is smaller, 3/8 size. and wont come off until you lift the manifold and twist the manifold as you remove it, then it comes off. This is the next to last hose holding the manifold on. The last hose is the coolant hoses. There is two, one on each side of the opening for the intake by the throttle valve. I hold the intake up in the air after you have removed the 16 10mm bolts holding it all down. I should have included it in the last step for bolts. Use a 2x4 wedge undr the manifold to keep it up while I remove these last two hose clamps. These are 3/8 size hoses with antifreeze in them. Now is a good time to start draining some of the coolant in the radiator before you start or these hoses will give you a small flood on top of the engine.
Oh yea I remove the two bolts (12mm) on the EGR Valve and remove it, This gives me more access to the last hose I just mentioned. Also remove the diaphram above it,on the top of the manifold next to the EGR. Two 10mm bolts hold the diaphram on.The only hoses that I didnt mention run along the valve cover to some metal tubes and solenoids on the left side of engine, they also get removed. They bolt to the left valve cover. I pull off the small hoses at each end and the two more that connecte to the intake by the throttle valve. The whole assembly of these hoses cant be removed until you remove the manifold.Remember to put it inplace first before you install the intake manifold on reinstallation.
Should anyone read this post and want pictures and details for a 96 Infinity send me a request.
Again, thanks for your help 'rearwheeldrive'.
Never bend or break anything on this car, parts are too expensive. I think I tried to get the cover off with it loose but I never had to bend it. It makes installation easier to remove it completely once you get the valve cover off. The right side cover is tough getting around the A/C lines I used a 1/4 drive socket wrapped in masking tape to help my two fingers loosen the bolt because the ratchet gets in the way of the A/C lines The fuel lines I left on too.
My pic's are detailed, but I have them in two different software programs and cant find then in the old software that pops up in the download window of this site. I'll find them today.
Sounds like the battery is dead. What is the voltage?. If you dont have a meter Radio Shack sells one for $4.00 dollars.
I think your car has something draining it. To immediately fix this, disconnect the ground cable at the battery every time you park the car. Mine is 13mm size nut on the negative (ground) side of the battery.. Its the correct cable to disconnect when you want to take electric battery power off the whole car, not the positive or red cable, its the hot one Since the NEG. cable is wired to the car body at the other end of the cable, the battery won't short out or spark if your wrench accidentally touches the car metal too when loosening it.
Its the positive cable that goes to all the switches and fuses that is hot, and is never touching the car body. If you accidentally touch the wrench to the car body when your removing it first instead, you would cause a direct short in the electric system bypassing all the switches and fuses and electric parts, and cause sparks too.
The dealership said they were going to give me a call the next day. I get a call 11:30AM the next day informing me that my car was no longer in the lot. I was even asked if I had come back to the dealership that same night to pick up my car with my spare (So I'm the victim here and I get accused of taking my car). They "discovered" the car missing AM and it took them 4 hours to contact me. I immediately head over to the dealership to file a police report. They have no clue as to what happened. No internal investigation was done. No camera footage was available. Basically considered the whole matter as between me and my insurance. They were very passive and had poor customer service. I love Infiniti and if you car about your's, I highly suggest don't bring it in to Frontier Infiniti on Stevens Creek (San Jose, CA).
:shades:
Can anyone help?
Thank you kindly,
James S.
James
Good luck,
Bil
I would be very surprised if you experience any major issues (especially if you can ascertain that routine maintenance has been performed.
Seriously though, assuming your plugs are OK, I would check the fuel system. Do you hear your fuel pump come on when you turn your key to the ON position?
My anti-lock light is on and my break light is on lightly. (dimmed) My anti-lock is not connected, but light is on. Then when I drive it, it sounds like it is reving higher, it does not sound like the normal engine sound.
Also, there is a humming in the back side of passenger, sounds like near the CD player which I think is off. I have not ever used it since I bought it. The other owner said she hit it accidently and it stopped working. I was told it was not my fuel pump. I have had the car for 5 years now and the humming for a few years. Can you help me? Thanks Jettb
1. Didn't want to start
2. Smoke from exhaust is thick upon start up and thins out after 5-6 mins.
3. A/C blows HOT air. I'm told all I need to do for that is to get a belt and add freon.
Can anyone help this unattached lady who really needs to make this car work. Can't afford to pay a mechanic. Need help from you experts.
thanks.
Great forum. This is really a great site.
I recently bought a 1998 Q45 with 96k miles. Interior and body are in great condition. The drive has very few shakes. However, I recently brought it in for an oil change and brake inspection. One of the issues were a small leak (undetermined yet so they are doing a dye check). Another was that the struts need changing.
My question is, besides these items that could be related to the age of the car, are there other issues that I should be checking for or saving for? I really want this one to last as it still really is an awesome car.
Thanks!
Take care of your 98 and it will take care of you.
anybody please!!!
i own an 02 q45 that has 61k miles and everything works perfect,but the suspension.it has a very rough ride and it makes no difference whether its on sport mode or auto mode.it makes no difference whatsoever,i could be on the high way or around my neighborhood it has a rough ride and can really feel the road. last week i took it to the dealership and they said that all suspension components are in good shape and they can lift it or lower it with their own computer but my sport-auto button does not work.i dont know if its supposed to be that way,or if i'm supposed to feel the diff between the 2 modes.can anyone please help me?otherwise i'm putting a for sale sign on it. i thought it was going to have a very smooth ride because they brag a lot about having a very smart independent suspension all around.THANKS A BUNCH
One note...to maintain a Q, it helps to be handy or else you'll spend a lot of money.
The remaining problem is that when it starts it kinda lopes idling until I step on the gas and then it quits. It doesn't lope at traffic lights or other stops, just when I first start it it. Even if I drive a few miles and park it, it will still lope when first restarted.
Any ideas?
(I swear that cat cleaner worked wonders!)
Bil
need a new sensor or could it be the alternator. If it is a sensor, how much does
that cost.
Good luck,
Bil
Question 2. When I am sitting a red light the engine starts missing and then when I start moving it misses for about the first 100 feet or so.
Any suggestions? Thanks
Question 2: My 2001 Q45 "lopes" at idle, some of the time. A reading of the trouble code shows low fuel pressure. I'm waiting on delivery of the fuel pressure part now. Sure hope thats it....
If yours is a true "miss" it could be one of the plug wires. I had one go bad and they short out against the tube they sit in. Unfortunately, even though the wire is replaceable, it is not offered as a part. Had to buy the whole part.
Bil
What I did was go to JCWhitney.com where they have a product you add to the gas and it will clean the cats. They send 2 bottles, under ~$20 shipped. Worked for me. Although the can says it cleans oxygen sensors, I had to replace 2 of them (online=$28 each).
I love my 2000 Q45. Most reliable car I've ever owned, and I've had 85 or more cars.
Good luck,
Bil
Question 2. my car cut off while driving and i tried to restart it and it work but yhe second time it would in't start can somebody help me ? Thx
I'm searching for someplace that can go through my original drive. If you know of someone let me know.
Do you remember the name of the catalyst cleaner you bought from JCWhitney? I tried to find it online and even talked with them but they did not seem to know what I was talking about.
Thanks.
Joe
Jim
The way to reset is as follows: Turn the key on and as soon as the airbag light goes out (before it starts blinking) turn the key off. - Wait a few seconds and do the same thing two more times. - When you turn it on for the 4th time leave it on and the sensing system should have reset. - Note: it is essential that you turn the ignition off as soon as the airbag light goes out and before it starts blinking the first three times.
Good Luck. Joe W.
I'll give it a try tomorrow.