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Comments
i have just been catching up on my reading....thanks for all the input on the 6-cd changer indash (forester 03) I am still having some trouble with the system...i have loaded all new cd's...wiped them down...etc..still the player gets finicky...it sounds like it is working hard to read the cd...then it will play and sometimes it won't...i will make an appt. at the dealer to check out the problem...iam just waiting to have everything settle in...i am at about 900 miles on the car...the mpg question...i have been reading with interest..last week my mpg was about 16.5 mpg 95% city driving..from what i have been reading i may still be in the break in period....I hope my vehicle settles into a little better city mileage......I have been doing about 95% highway driving with this tank...i will let you know the mileage... I am really enjoying driving my vehicle...sturdy...and fun to drive...and
Phong...I have also noticed a lag in my car. Sometimes when i go from a complete stop and i step on the gas it feels as if it is being pulled back...as if the baack wheeels are in mud...this happens on hard surfaces..the car goes..but it feels a little sluggish in the rear wheels... well that is all for now...keep writing i am so enjoying reading everything....
It feels like it drags for a second on reverse (even on flat surfaces) almost like the brake is on. The feeling is definitely a pull on the back, not the front of the car. Then it picks up and goes, but with a whining reverse sound that I always associated with my Hondas but never noticed in other cars.
Question: is this normal? Is it the hill holder kicking in on flat surfaces? Should I have the dealer check it out?
Thanks so much for any feedback,
Julie
I also have the Rhino Ramps. :-D I just didn't like 'em for lifting the vehicle. If you didn't hit 'em just right, they'd slide on asphalt. Plus, you have to wait for the engine to cool down if you move the car onto the ramps. Makes things hotter to deal with, unless you leave the car on the ramps for an hour or two.
Anyone else ahve any input on what jacks and jackstands to use?
burnsmr4
When I changed my Outback's oil, it was first thing in the morning. I just went around our block and came back to our garage and drove up the ramps. The engine wasn't very hot, but warm enough that the oil flowed nicely. My dw had our MPV that morning, so when she came back it was at operating temps. I drove it up the ramps, ate lunch, and waited a bit for stuff to cool down before doing the oil change. Even with a jack and stands, I would have had to wait. Typically, I like to change the oil first thing in the morning.
-Brian
irritating while parallel parking etc. When the car was green things were very tight now with 10k things are loosening a bit. Most of the time the HH is GREAT but it seems to activate on what appears as level grade. Bob L
Does anyone know if a non- California (purchased in another state) 2003
Forester would meet the Califonia emission requirements?
If not what would have to be done at what cost.?
Ron
I live in NJ and my 2002 Forester says right under the Hood that its for ALL 50 States. Also my Factory Service manual does not discriminate for any Calif emissions as on other vehicles I have owned or serviced. In other words, unless anyone knows differently, US destined Foresters should ALL meet 50 state emissions.
MPG, I have had 5 tanks of gas in 1600 miles on my '03 XS, mpg varied from 26.2 to 31.0 mpg with 60/40 and 90/10 city/highway. This on the 5 speed, keeping it between 60-70 mph.
John
Only problem is, I don't think a 2 1/4 ton jack will work for me. I checked specs on my wife's '98 Volvo S70, and they say that the weight of the vehicle is around 4900lbs. Just a hair too much for 2 1/4 ton jack?
burnsmr4
On the Passenger side, remove the Air intake snorkel, on the Drivers side, remove the Washer tank Then all is opened up and straight forward. Be glad it's not a FWD V6 and you have the rear plugs to get to. These are easy.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Otherwise a thief will take your car if they want it.
-mike
I must've read the max. GVW for the car. I didn't THINK it was that much heavier than my '02 Subaru Forester S. LOL!
Anyway -- I'm gonna get the Craftsman jack and jack stand set from SEARS at $30. Thank goodness for rain checks. :-D
burnsmr4
information.
I also received the following reply from Subaru of America:
Thank you for visiting the Subaru Web site and for your inquiry. Yes, the 2003 Forester models all meet the stricter emissions standards of California regardless of which state it is purchased in. We have only offered Californian spec vehicles for the past couple of model years.
Thanks for the opportunity to be of assistance. If you need any future assistance, please feel free to contact us again.
Ron
Can´t talk about the subwoofer, but from the instruction sheets it looks more complicated only because you need to get to the back of the stereo harness.
I am wandering about the subwoofer myself. Is it worth to upgrade to the amp/subwoofer from Subaru if i was to stick to the stock stereo and get better door speakers? (p.s. i´m itching to use those SubaruBucks)
http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/library/
Note: I added the subwoofer and a WRX head unit to my 01 Forester in addition to upgraded front speakers/tweeters....I'm very happy with the results
did you upgrade to the Subaru "OEM" premium speakers or aftermarket? if so, which ones? thanks for any info.
I am definitely not an audiophile.....old ears from too many years in aircraft....but the upgrades are definitely better...even to my ears.
I also replaced them with 3-way Sony Xplods and the difference was quite noticeable.
I also replaced my rears with Polks, but this modification gave less bang for the buck. I believe the low positioning of the rear speakers and their small size results in a smaller improvement.
Ken
Duck: it's funny you mention it, but my old roommate hurt his shoulder skiing, and he was driving a stick. I didn't even have a driver's license yet. We ended up driving with him behind the wheel, but me changing gears. An auto would have been much easier.
I use rhino ramps, too, but my driveway is inclined, so using the ramps actually makes the cars sit level. So find a hill! :-)
-juice
always pros and cons....
Thanks for the info on the speakers. i think my first use of SubaruBucks will go to the subwoofer/amp and the security upgrade (that should take care of about $200...), the latter one prompted by recent street vandals and an insurance discount, in essence paying for itself in the next few years.
still no news on the springs, i am beginning to curse in my sleep at Scorpion and iSRPerformance...
I was told $139/tire. I'm not about to put out that kind of cash for tires that will last less than 30,000 miles. does anyone have any suggestions for another brand? I prefer raised white letters myself.
Thanks
thanks, kathleen
PS I can't WAIT to get this Forester -- I spent most of last night rescuing my other car, which has a dead alternator and conked out 0.5 miles from home, and then again 0.1 miles from home when its dying carburetor crashed too. We rescued it with my boyfriend's car, a 10-year-old Metro which also has a dead alternator and a bad clutch and yet somehow managed to creak along enough to push the other car home. I haven't been able to go more than 2 miles from home for months. Did I mention I can't wait to get the Forester??
Now if YOU have different thoughts than me.....at least get some kind of price break...add ons.....something.
OK....just my .02......don't be overeager to get a "new" car.
-Frank P.
-Jon
To refresh your memory - My wifes tranny started acting up about a month after the recall work was done. It was lurching at about 15mph.
We took it in and after about a week the dealer got back to us and said it was the valve box. We had that replaced last week. The mechanic that worked on it said he felt we should get a new tranny. The svc manager seemed to suggest the same thing without going so far as to say so.
They told us to drive it and see if the problem returned. Everything seems fine so far. Just wondering if and when it will return.
Chris
Gene
I would stay away from that dealer. Stuff like that needs to be disclosed upfront. If u are willing to purchase a "brand new" car with that many miles, I would definitely ask for compensation in the form of a cash discount or some sort of an extended warranty. There are quite a few of dealers in the Seattle area - you shouldn't have to settle for a new car that already has 670 miles. I am in the process of getting an XS Premium. So far I have mostly been price shopping by emailing the various dealerships. The one in North Seattle seems to have decent prices. Was your price quote for an X or XS ?
Do a search for "everything subaru joe", and click on sales. If its the same car, I now know why its so marked-down.
No way no how I'd pay new pricing on a vehicle with 670 miles on it. The whole point of ordering new was to avoid some yahoo overreving a green engine, or beating up the clutch, etc. I believe there are legal definitions that technically come into play, but as far as I'm concerned, it's used. An extended warranty is the least they can do. I'd go for a different unit if you want a new one, personally.
Just my 2 cents...
-brianV
They were worn excessively on the outside. I thought this was a misalignment, but apparently not, because their replacements, Goodrich Touring T/As lasted 42,000 with no sign of excessive outer edge wear. No alignment had been done. They actually could have gone another 8-10000 miles and still have been legal, but at 4/32 tread depth they began to hydroplane badly and to slide around in snow. Since we had 21 days in a row of snow here, I replaced them early. They are decent tires that I have used on 2 vehicles -- good in all conditions except in snow when they are more than half worn.
Currently, I am using Bridgestone Turanza LS/T tires that so far have been excellent in snow and very good in boh wet and dry conditions. They have a very deep tread that made them a bit squirmy at first in wet and dry conditions, but they are quite stable and grip and handle well. They settled in with wear.
They are said to be deisgned to retain good handling as they wear because of a special progressive tread design. They have a 60k warranty. The 16" ones cost $110 each at a regional chain store, mounted, balanced and with road hazard warranty, free alignment check, and one year roadside assistance. They are available mail-order from Tire rack for $73. This is for the 16" size. The 15" are less expensive.
The sound you are describing from your tires could mean either that you have cupping of the tread caused by misalignment, or that the tire has changed shape (usually a bulge under the tread or it has gotten out of round). So, you should have the alignment checked when you get the new tires.
I recommend that the alignment be done by a reputable place that does a lot of them. Many places do a sloppy job, making adjustments only if alignment is completely out of spec, leaving it alone if it is at the extreme but within tolerance. Make sure that whoever does the alignment sees the wear pattern on the old tires. This gives them useful information.
OE tires are almost always inferior to what you can get for the same price on the aftermarket. The Dueler H/Ts are not very good tires. Most folks I know with them (as OE tires) have not been very happy with the treadlife and performance.
If the treadwear warranty is indeed 60K miles, you might be able to contact Bridgestone for some adjustment. You should have received a warranty info brochure.
AWD should actually help keep tire wear more even as torque is being distributed to all four tires.
You can do much, MUCH better than Dueler H/Ts for $139/tire. For starters, do some research at Tire Rack and browse through their selection of tires. Since you want RWL, you probably want to being in the light truck tire section. Choose a tire with at least the same speed, traction and wear rating as the Duelers (that shouldn't be too hard).
I recently purchased Dunlop SP5000s for my Forester S and are very happy with them. They came out to about $100/tire at Discount Tire -- this included balancing, mounting and disposal of my old tires. It also includes lifetime balancing and rotation too.
Ken
You might want to contact the "internet sales manager" at local dealerships. I talked to one in Tacoma (I suggest you use the yellow pages, "Edmunds" looked askance at my posting of the guy's actual name and e-mail address, even though I will get no kickback or anything). I'm sure you will be able to figure out the name of a Tacoma Subaru dealer.
Last year when I was looking for a new Forester I made contact with him this guy, let's call him "Bill" (not Gates) from one of the various internet pricing services.
At the time, he was selling for $500 or so over the dealer invoice. True, they get a kickback from Subaru so the dealer really gets $1000 for the car, but it was still about $2000 below list.
If you can wait for him to order a car in, you get the best price. Otherwise, add $250 or so, max, and he will deliver the car to you. I think he is closer than 650 miles.
Accessories sold for near dealer cost, too, and he provided the sheets to show, which were right-on what I had found from Consumer Reports.
I did not have the opportunity to buy a new 2003 XS from him, though . .
found a 2001 S for about $8k less and couldn't justify spending the extra.
I was impressed with his manner over the phone and e-mail, seemed like a straight shooter, none of the usual dealer stuff, just selling cars to
people who knew what they wanted.
hopefully this will meet the "non-commercial" standards of Edmunds. (my first message had his e-mail address and everything . . I learned that was a no-no)
-mike
I figured it was something like cupping or shifted belts.
I do plan to have an alignment done at a sube dealership. I live within walking distance of one which makes it real convenient for service. But $139/tire for the Duelers seems a bit much and I'm tempted to look elsewhere for tires. The thing is, thanks to my Subaru Mastercard, I have $200 in Subaru bucks that I can use toward any Subaru service or parts at the dealership. The Subaru Bucks are good for four years, so maybe I could buy the tires elswhere and have the alignment done at the dealership. Or I could just save the Subaru bucks for something else. Anyway, I am definitely going to look at other tire brands.
BTW, its been a long time since I visited this board (over a year and a half I'm sure). Unfortunately, my life has become much busier than I would like....even my kayaking time has been cut short, which is not good for Skip. Anyway, it is good to still see some of the oldtimers like Juice and kens here. I'll try to come a round a little more.
Later.....
Seems like a good deal if it had 11 miles, but not 670.
-juice
Gene
i hope you can help me answer this question. got back to the USA. My wife has been driving the Forester (sorry, no name for it) for about a month and she filled it with gas twice. all city driving. to my horror, two things happened: MPG for one tank = 19, another = 20. also, at one point, there was a cylinder 1 and 2 misfire error code on the ECU so she took it to the dealer, where they said not to worry but stop buying Costco gasoline and use "brand name" instead. My suspicion is that this all has to do with the fact that since Mar 1 we get normal gas and not the oxygenated variety we have been using since getting the car in november. So the question is, should i reset the ECU and/or switch to other gas stations? keep in mind, i have gotten as much as 29MPG on the Costco gas and lowest ever was 22MPG (overall average since buying the car = 25MPG).
Thanks for any ideas!