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Comments
Put very simply, it works. The shock absorbers have some sort of oil reservoir and the valving works to centre the suspension in the middle of its travel after a few bumps. No, I don't understand the technicalities but its a super system and particularly good when the car is fully laden or towing. The suspension loads up and sinks but by the time I hit the nearest cross street, it has levelled up.
I've had my Outback for 4 years and 65000miles and no problems with the units either. And yes, they do get regularly loaded up.
Cheers
Graham
And why wouldn't it be worth $24k? An Expedition we test drove was $42k, and it wasn't even the Eddie Bauer model. Alternately, what SUV can match that kind of acceleration, for even double that price? None.
OK, who will try those self-leveling shocks first? Would that be cool or what? I'd try it if I had a 2003.
It's not going to have the same replacement costs as the old air bladders, because you just replace the shocks themselves. I wonder what they cost, in fact. Probably only a bit more than regular shocks.
Shocks are a wear-and-tear item anyway. The stock ones won't last forever. My Miata's shocks are spent.
-juice
Bob
Ken
Kajko,
Are you still waiting on the springs? I've been waiting to see how yours turns out, I still want to do the same to mine.
I'm looking to get a Forester 2.5x Automatic in Cayenne Red for my mom, who sadly just totaled her 1993 Legacy Wagon. In Northern Virginia, there are a few 2003's left. Where my parents live, in Central Massachusetts, there are almost none. I figured I might be able to get a good deal on an '03 so I shopped it here.
The lowest price I could get on a 2003 was $19500. Back in MA, my parents shopped a 2004 at a local dealer. Exactly the same car, except for the visor cloth difference (or whatever it is). Without too much haggling they were able to get a quote for the '04 of $19800. This matches an internet quote I got from a dealer in RI. I'm quite surprised that there was so little cost advantage for the 2003--and frankly a little surprised that the dealers were willing to go nearly $1000 under invoice so easily. We are not done shopping and will try to get a few more hundred off, as my parents really don't want to spend more than $19. But, so much for the 2003--not worth it!
By the way, just a general comment, every time I'm shopped a car in the last few years (probably around a dozen or so cars shopped for myself, family and friends), the Edmunds TMV is always considerably more than we end up paying after a few hours of haggling. Maybe this is just an anomoly, or maybe some just don't haggle much, but I find this rather curious and would advise people not to offer that price but instead go much lower and settle for it in the end if you have to.
By the way, I did test drive the Forester and was impressed. I'm not crazy about the sort of crazy beige interior in the Red though. Turning circle and tight steering were impressive. For my mom, its perfect. Personally, I drive a 2002 Intrigue so the Forester is underpowered for my taste, but its a good value and a nice package...
Steve, Host
-mike
I think "Barry" would be a good place to start.
-Dave
I was trying to say that Cayenne Red in a 2003 is NOT sold out in Northern Virginia. I drove one and was quoted $19500 for it. Meanwhile, back in Massachusetts, my parents drove the exact same thing only a 2004 and were quoted $19800. Now I know that we are talking different regions, but I was still surprised that the best deal I could get on a 2003 was only $300 better than what they were offered on a 2004 after miminal negotiation. Perhaps Subarus are simply more expensive in NoVA, I don't know...
Good info on the TMV. I realize that it is merely an average and it can be beat. In the article in mentions two strategies--offer the TMV and make it your exit number, or offer below up and negotiate up. I would strongly recommend the second one--and since I would imagine most people who look at this site (which is excellent by the way) ARE educated (or in the process of educating themselves), I would think that the TMV is high for most Edmunds consumers unless there is some sort of demand issue with the vehicle they want.
Edmunds should create a new thread where buyers can write about their experiences buying a Subaru through the Internet.
btw, I paid TMV for my used Outback back in April. It was within $100 of what Terry over in Real-World Trade-In Values said it was worth. TMV may not be the last word, but it's a great tool to get you in the ballpark.
Steve, Host
By the way, I do appreciate the dealers who give a straightforward quote like this though.
kajko: I'm also interested to see if those springs will fit. Take pics, I'll even host them for you if you want.
Matt: the 2004 gets the cloth sun visor and collapseable front pedals, but it loses the cassette. Also, the 2003 may have lower finance rates.
If you want the cassette and will finance it, it may be worth getting the 2003.
Any how, check fitzmall.com, it's a quick drive from NoVA, and prices are competitive. If you want a referral to a specific sales man e-mail me.
-juice
I did check out Fitzmall.com, I actually really like their website to check out what cars are 'really' going for. In this case, they don't have my color and they are running a few hundred higher than the others though.
-juice
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
I am sure everyone appreciates the 32 milliseconds of relief you so generously provided them! ;-)
tidester, host
-mike
Corrosion would be a bigger concern, I wonder if you could coat them.
-juice
Recently I took my Forester S 01 to the dealership to get the rear brake pads. I knew I would likely need to get the rotors resurfaced as I noticed I went a smidge to long before finally getting the pads replaced.
The mechanic over there said rotor resurfacing is something they do every time the pads need to be replaced.(Regardless of if you've waited too long before getting them replaced) Is this true? My fiance who has a little knowledge of fixing cars said that he's never heard of that being done as a standard procedure.
What is your opinion on this? I was hoping to have the brake pads replaced my by fiance next time, but if this needs to be done then it doesn't make sense to have hime do it.
Thanks,
~Laurie
The shops got tired of people coming back a week after a brake job complaining about the noise, so most just turn the rotors automatically unless told not to.
New pads mated to a new rotor surface will be quieter from the start, and customers will be happier.
That's the version I've read anyway.
Steve, Host
Why? The outer surface is hardened, so getting a lathe to shave that off leaves a softer layer of metal exposed.
Let your fiance do it next time, as long as there is no pulsing from the brake pedal when you apply the brakes, and the system operates smoothly. He should bleed the fluid, though.
-juice
As far as shaving off metal: the way rotors are heat treated, I think it's fairly homogeneous -- the hardness should be consistent all the way through. This may be an issue for rotors that are coated in some special way, but I think the average garden variety rotor (like those found on our Subes) are plain old heat treated cast iron or steel.
Craig
-Frank P.
-brianV
Hey, it's Friday, go for a nice drive.
-juice
-Frank P.
I seem to remember something about grooves and new pads having to wear to match the grooves in old rotors - I think the context was why new pads can make noise in spite of anti-squeal grease behind the pads.
Steve, Host
I found that I clocked 29.6 mpg with no AC (and driver's window down
John
My one "fault" is that the seat warmer switches are too close to the drink cup holders
John
The OEM (Yokohama) tires on my 2001 Forester S are about gone after 45,000 miles. I'm in the Northeast so I'm looking around for a general purpose all season tire that will be good in the snow in winter. I've looked at the tirerack web site and they actually recommend a several different high performance tires but I'm not sure they are really appropriate for a Forester. Does anyone have any recommendations on different tire brands and models?
Thanks in advanced,
Rich
Seat heaters feel that way to me. I'd still love to have them.
Jerri: keep in mind there are approximately, oh, 7 billion Camrys and Accords on the road. And about 3 Aztecs. So you might not see any complaints for that Pontiac.
Gosh, I never thought I'd write that! LOL
Any how, my money's still on the Camry being a far better car.
-juice
The OEM (Yokohama) tires on my 2001 Forester S are about gone after 45,000 miles. I'm in the Northeast so I'm looking around for a general purpose all season tire that will be good in the snow in winter. I've looked at the tirerack web site and they actually recommend a several different high performance tires but I'm not sure they are really appropriate for a Forester. Does anyone have any recommendations on different tire brands and models?
Thanks in advanced,
Rich
I recommend them highly.
Ed
Steve, Host
The Yokos are just passenger car tires in disguise. Any good all-season tire should do as well as the Yokos.
I'll second Ed's recommendation with the SP5000s. I have them on my Forester S as well and they have improved wet and dry handling. I have not had a chance to drive with them in the snow, however.
The Dunlop Sport A2 is also a good contender at a lower price point.
Ken
These tires seem about the same as the Yokos in ride comfort and noise. They are rated 400-something as far as tread wear, and seem to be wearing well at this point. I run them at 32 PSI all around, and have rotated them once so far, after 5K miles. I paid $66 per tire from Tire Rack back in March '03, but they are currently selling for $80 apiece, I think. Check out tirerack.com's web site, for lots of info on tires. I hope this helps.
Len