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Chrysler Sebring Brake Problems



  • pbmiller1pbmiller1 Posts: 2
    wondering if anyone can tell me how to tell if this is caliper or vacuum booster?
  • I had these checked out at numerous Chrysleer Service DEalerships they all say the brake shoes are good but they never address the Rorors, The Brakes are Horrible right now I never had any service on the brakes after 6 years and 70,000 miles yet the technicians say my brakes are fine only after looking at the pads, they never test driven the car nor have they every looked at the fluid level. The Service technicians are WORST then the Chrysler Cars themselves. Never again Will I by a Chrysler Product nor any car thats under their umbrella such as Dodge, etc.
  • mpfimpfi Posts: 5
    Here is the checklist that worked for me.

    1) After unsuccessfully wasting time, money and effort trying different aftermarket parts combinations, I bought a new set of front brake rotors and brake pads from the Chrysler dealership. Each brake rotor (MOPAR) box indicated they were “Made in U.S.A.” Removed the factory protective paint from the rotors brake contact area. Cleaned the rotors and pads to near surgical-like condition.
    2) Ensured that both hub bearings were in good - if not - in excellent conditions.
    3) I used a brake rotor runout gauge to properly install each brake rotor in relation to the hub bearing; I took the time to ensure that both front rotors were as close as possible to perfect zero runout.
    4) I had installed 2 rebuilt front calipers before from a reputable brake caliper rebuilder; but, there was something suspicious about the left one. This time, I was very lucky that I found and purchased 2 front brake calipers that seemed to be brand new rather than rebuilt ones.
    5) Replaced the 2 front brake hydraulic lines with OEM ones, even though the ones in my car appeared to be perfectly fine (they only had 60k miles of use each). I noticed that the new brake lines had an improved design.
    6) Before the final assembly, I ensured that each brake pad was not too tight with respect to the anti-rattle springs at the caliper mounting rail and applied a very light coat of silicone based brake lubricant to the sliding end for each brake pad.
    7) Caliper pins lubrication: I used a light film of silicone based caliper pin lubricant and ensured that each pin would slide in and out without lots of effort while displacing any trapped air. The upper slide pin bolt is the one with the rubber anti-vibration bushing. I found different recommendations on different websites; however, this is how it is working fine in my Sebring.
    8) Doubled-checked the torque for every anchor and caliper slide pin bolt. Ensured that both calipers would slide freely.
    9) I adjusted the rear brakes according to factory specs; you need to ensure that the rear brake system is doing its part to stop the vehicle.
    10) Bled the brake system. Reinstalled the tires using the correct procedure and torque specification. With the vehicle tires secured, started the engine and pressed the brake pedal 7 – 8 times to seat the brake pads against the rotors and to verify proper pedal pressure before attempting to move the vehicle.
    11) Inspect and refill the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir as needed.

    Finally and very important, the new brakes break-in procedure. You must identify a road where you could safely and gradually reduce speed from about 40 - 30 miles x hr to about 10 - 15 miles x hr without coming to a complete stop. I selected a local highway at night where it was safe and there was almost no traffic. I repeated the previous steps several times; I probably drove for at least 30 minutes allowing time between each slow down for the brake system to cool down a little. Before I was using the 30 - 30 procedure, meaning 30 miles x hr down to approx. 10, rest 10 secs, then repeat. While this could be excellent for other cars, I decided to allow a little more than 10 seconds for the Sebring front brakes to cool.

    When possible avoid panic stops or abusing the brakes for the first couple of hundred miles.

    Please, note that I may have skipped steps and information that I assume the reader is familiar with. The information shared here should not be used in place of the factory recommended procedure. Brake system diagnostic and repairs should only be performed by Certified Technicians.
  • mpfimpfi Posts: 5
    New brakes break-in procedure clarification.

    There are countless technical writings and brake parts manufacturer websites devoted to new brakes break-in procedures and related information; you must follow the factory recommended procedure from your specific brake parts manufacturer.

    As a general rule, after the vehicle's speed is reduced to about 40 - 30 mph, the brakes are gradually applied to slow down to about 10 mph without coming to a complete stop, resume normal speed and continue to drive for some distance to allow the brake system to cool down a little then the process is repeated.

    After you have done this several times as recommended by the brake parts maker, you should resume normal speed and continue to drive for about 15 - 20 mins for the brake system to cool down as much as possible before coming to a complete stop and/or eventually parking the vehicle.

    You will need to identify a secure place where you could do this process without placing yourself or others at risk.
  • I,

    I Bought a Sebring 2007 crd limited, and have the same problem. No solution yet, the Dealer says its normal...but it isnt.

    Any solution?

    Best Regards,

  • well 3 years & 32,000 miles later, 5 sets of rotors, 8 sets of pads Chrysler OEM branded, Wagner, Bendix, and Centrex brands Chrysler made good on an engineer visit, he replaced pads & rotors back OEM, (do not use value line) and do not turn OEM rotors ever - this increases heat, do not let technician at dealer or tire store use impact wrench - use hand wrench and torque wrench, as weird as it seems that "worked" - clearly defined in JS (Sebring family including Dodge Avenger) factory service manuals, this will cause rotor to warp, heat will build up and continue, cutting rotors (also called turning) thins out metal and thickness also causing heat build up enough to warp - now having checked at factory expense every 3 months / 3,000 miles whichever comes first and so far they are holding up - keep fingers crossed
  • I,

    Thanks for your feedback...wish me luck :)

    Regards from Portugal

  • Hi,

    I have one new set of rotors and one sets of pads (japanese brand)....and everything ok...but just drive 250 miles...

  • my brake issues were pretty much limited to accelerated wear, and once pads were worn, and heat build up warped the rotors there would be a vibration in steer column that could be felt in steer wheel when braking slowly and at around the 40 mph mark, the heat build up got so bad at one point on rotor set #3 the rotor surface had cracked, (looked like shattered safety glass) and had a bluish purple tinge color in center hub another sign of excessive heat present, I still like the Sebring runs good, stopping has always been my challange and of course poor dealer support (everywhere)

    thanks for everones help, I hope this can return the favor and ease your frustration to one of you, find a dealer you can trust, use new Mopar, not their discount Value Line brand the dealers sell you for their service coupons, make sure they dont use an impact on wheel lug nuts when mounting, and do not turn rotors ever, if grooved to point of maximum just replace them.

    If dealer gives you a hard time tell them to look it up in the JS family model service manaul 2007 - 2010 Chrysler Sebring / Dodge Avenger and CALL Factories toll free 800 number and complain, if in California have them start paper work on "lemon law" you will be called back and that's a promise
  • donseibdonseib Posts: 1
    I am going through the exact same problem. I already changed the pads, the rotors, the calipers, the parking brake shoes. Yesterday a friend told me that the brake line is probably pinched. Makes sense, right? Not sure if that is a big deal to do. Well, doing anything laying in my driveway isn't a walk in the park.
  • In 08 took car to dearlership for brakes told emergengy brake stuck and it was replaced. when it snow car go threw lights took back to dearlership and they said that it was abs and normal. 2011 june going to work went through stop sign almost killed which was memorial day always. Then towed to dearlership and called to check on it and they said the brakes line was contaminated. they told me it would cost 1800.00 to fix. when I complainted they said they would paid half. now that has been fixed drove home and the car is pulling, making noise and back in shop and waiting to see problem now.
  • jwrunjwrun Posts: 1
    almost everytime we start our sebring for the day and press the brakes they squeel loudly for awhile then stop; the brakes seem to run okay but the noise is very loud. Any ideas?
This discussion has been closed.