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I hope you have better luck with yours than I did with mine. (Mine went away last month). Now the dealer that I traded it to can't sell it!
I do not tow, but car is periodically used as an RV tow car with 4 wheels on ground (transfer case in neutral). Am I alone in sensing that the diesel's torque is too much for the transmission/torque converter. Ck engine light has been on most of the car's short life...have paid a fortune in EGR system work as dealer (mistakenly) thinks this is the problem...I think its simply an unworkable diesel/trans linkage...any thoughts???
This is what my dealer told me: He and his Jeep colleagues in France had to repair a few converters who suffered from the combination of the variable vanes turbo giving more torque at the low end and travelling at low speed in high gear.
Were you in this condition?
He also gave me a clear warning about using power chips combined to the automatic transmission. I should also destroy my converter :sick:
- You probably already had damaged the torque converter before the F-37 recall occurred, but not enough to destroy it.
This would seem reasonable assuming the service technician didn't do a thorough verification of the converter after flashing the controller. Once play gets into the assembly, you need less power to continue mechanical deterioration. In such case the liability insurance of the dealership should pay the repair.
Now the bad part, I had the transmission lock up on me when trying to back out of my driveway,4 times when parked in front of my house at approx 6 & 8,000 miles. My driveway has a little incline, when I tried backing the vehicle out of the driveway, it locked up. I had a heck of a time getting it to unlock by moving it back and forth in all the gears and hitting the brake. It happened 3 of the times when I had the Select-Tract in the 2H Range for rain and light snow like it recommends. I took the vehicle into the place I bought it, and of course they couldn't duplicate the problem when I had it running. I had them make a notation in my service record about the problem. Also I really hate the bad gas mileage this vehicle gets, it's nothing like the 17 city--22 highway it reports it gets, I'm 74 years, and don't burn rubber.
I want to get rid of this car, but will not take a $10,000 loss, the vehicle listed for $31,040, and it's like it just came out of the factor, but no one wants to give me more then $16,500 for a trade-in. Lou
The problem was not fixed properly and has been worsening since May. The Jeep started to lurch and die at stops. I took it in. The gears seem to grind when I accelerated slowly. I took it in. I have all receipts from the shop visits between May and early November. I'm no car guru, but it's obvious that there is an issue! The topper is a few days before Thanksgiving, at just under 27K, I pulled out in front of traffic and nearly got rear ended because it would not go over 40 mph. Second gear was the highest it would run. I immediately took it to nearby Jeep dealership service shop and explained the details of what I took as a transmission problem.
The shop replaced the EGR valve and told me it was ready to go. When I went to pick it up today, I pulled out and couldn't go beyond 2nd gear again. I left it parked right in front of the service booth and left the key with the manager with instructions to have the service manager call me first thing in the morning. Honestly, I am becoming disgusted with my Jeep Liberty and Chrysler mechanics' skills in general. I'm thinking maybe a :lemon: complaint is in order.
Have any of you had any success with a repurchase or replacement? I mean, I do pass the 4x test and the serious safety hazard test for the lemon laws in Texas, but I don't know if a stupid transmission is enough to go legal on their @$$. I'm leaning towards "one more shot," but what if it's still not repaired?
Forbes just released their list of the top 10 worst automobiles for 2007. Jeep Liberty, Nitro (Dodge's version of the Liberty), and Jeep Patriot made the top of the crappy list. So unfortunately, you may be looking at quite a few problems here in the near future. Sorry but you'll probably be joining the rest of us Liberty owners who wished that they'd have bought something else. I've been "repairing" my 2003 Liberty Freedom Sport for 4 years now. Always something "unusual" according to the Jeep dealer. But on line here it seems all too common.
I would bet the bank that your 4WD vacuum modulator (I think that's what the service tech called it) is faulty. I spent $129.60 at Continental Chyrsler/Jeep in LaGrange, IL for the new part + labor. Service guy also told me that they have replaced a lot of these on 02-04 Liberty's at the 35K+ mark. My 2003 has 46K on it so I guess I've been been lucky. As this forum shows, any year Liberty is basically a dog. More problems than the average vehicle, crappy gas milege, poor trade-in/resale value. Even in mint condition w/low miles- nobody wants them unless you argee to almost give it away.
That noise you're hearing is the 4WD engaging/disengaging while you're driving it with the bad vac mod. If you pay close attention to your fuel gage, you'll note a big drop in your MPG. I only drove mine some 100+ miles with the bad vac mod and burned over 3/4 of a tank of gas! I'd get it in for service real fast. Please let us know if that's what it turns out to be for sure on your '03. Good luck.
If you heard nothing falling on the road that day and the vehicle can still use two gears, I would guess you have a hydraulic / solenoid / shifting control issue. All gears are constantly meshed so if one breaks, the whole transmission gets "frozen".
Try to inspect the rotary switch of the gear selector (driver's side) and the big connector of the gearbox control module located near the firewall on the passenger side. Are you getting an error code?
Spike
I get less mileage when I put a new air filter or when I have the K&N on :confuse:
Could our turbo be making the air/fuel mixture too lean?
In my case, cleaning the Boost Pressure Sensor never made a change. Could be due to the mechanically driven waste gate compared to the variable vanes you have :confuse:
Now that winterized diesel fuel is available, for the same amount of fuel (3/4 tank mark) I get 320 instead of 450 Km or miles, the ratio is the same :sick:
With just a drop-in K&N, you are doing absolutely nothing to the engine except at WOT, because you have a throttle plate regulating air flow anyway.
Rainy weather creates a denser fuel charge, so that effect makes perfect sense.
after 26,000 miles. Its out of warranty by 1 month and has been great. If indeed I
can not get jeep to fix this under warranty who makes a good 5 or six speed after market transmission for replacement? I really enjoy the gas mileage and performance I get from the CRD and have realized they is not a reasonable replacement on the market for less the $40,000. So what can I do to fix it so
I don't continue to have problem.
I have a 2003 5 speed manual transmission Jeep Liberty. My truck has been running good up until now. Wednesday driving was fine but thrusday not the same issue. Thursday I went on an errand and notice I have having problems shifting. I felt like I was working against the gears. I fought to get into gear. Sometimes the gears would grind or even pop out of gear or it would shift really hard. That day I took it to a friend that works at a dealership didn't know if he could help me. He wasn't sure what was wrong with it because it wasn't his expertise. I have an on going issue with the transmission mount. When I had my oil change the mechanic there explained that the one of the housings that the bolt mounts to is cracked and needed to be replaced. He told me is wasn't a must-fix-this-minute thing but SHOULD be fixed ASAP. They were suppose to call me about parts and $ but never did. Then I kind of forgot about it. Well my friend that took a look at my truck said that the crack mount could be a factor but doesn't know for sure. He did say the cracked part is a serious problem and needs to be fixed. Upon looking at the crack, I noticed it's the actual transmission mount/assembly and the whole thing would need to be replaced. Oh Boy! But would replacing that fix my problem. Then friday I went on an errand again and it was worse. I had to jam it into gear. I mean all my strength to get into gear. I decided it wasn't safe to drive and turned around to go home. At my last stop sign I put it in neutral and then I couldn't get back into gear. I tried 1st and 2nd and no luck. I ended up having to push my car down the street into my driveway. I really don't know how to diagnosis this problems. I have been told just in talking that it could be A. the cracked bolt mount B. sync rose C. transmission D. clutch E. throw out bearing. Can someone shed some light on this issue because I need my car!!! I am a college student that works full time and this is my only line. Needless to say I need to do something ASAP. Please help.
Then start the engine without any gear engaged and check for unusual transmission noise. This will tell you the status of the clutch alignment with the gearbox. If the gearbox is severely misaligned you should hear a complaint from the bearings and the splined shaft that reaches into the clutch plate + mechanism.
Then you try shifting gears using the clutch with engine still running. If you hear cracking sounds while you shift then you can incriminate the synchromesh 'roses'.
All previous tests put no load on the transmission. When you are on the road you torque the transmission in both directions (+/-) and gears may want to 'let go' when they are severely damaged. This is different from synchromesh wear that has a function of putting two pieces at a same speed of rotation just before penetration of the annular splines/fingers/cogs machined on the gears that are engaged. The synchromesh is a 'consumable' compared to the gears.
Bonne chance
ps: the throw out bearing can only get noisier than usual but will not affect the transmission as such unless it explodes and permanently separates the clutch plates (not seen this yet!). If the clutch pressure plate is damaged, you will feel it with your foot when you press the pedal. A broken pressure plate mechanism will sound like a charm bracelet worn by a very old lady with Parkinson disease.
By putting the truck on jacks, you simulate the usual 'stress' on the transmission and suspension elements; if a fixation element is broken, it will not relax into it's original shape.
Note: can't do a CARS clunkers trade in as jeep has to be in "running condition." Who was the stupid politician who though of that. This jeep is not just a clunker, it's a $10,000 flower pot .
So after I get the Jeep back I notice there's a harsh 4-3 downshift. I bought the vehicle NEW in 2003 and it NEVER did this before. I take the Liberty back to the shop and tell them to fix it. They say they take everything apart and re-check all of their work and that it's nothing that they did. They then tell me that there is a "TSB" about this problem but that they can't help me because they are no longer a Jeep dealership. They tell me I need to go to a Jeep dealership now.
#1. Is it possible they screwed something up when they were "servicing" the tranny? What are the odds that this problem just happened to start at the very same time they "service" the tranny but the 2 aren't related? Give me a break!
#2. Why should I have to pay for another shop to take care of a problem when this shop told me they could service the Jeep? Weren't they being dishonest?
#3. I paid this dealership over $800 when all was said and done for the 60K service! Is it possible they did the complete 60K service when they can't fix this "software" problem that a real Jeep dealership can supposedly easily?
We're having the same issues
Anyone else having this problem and found a solution?
Taken to dealer 4 times and they could not reproduce problem. Had computer flashed and all fluids, filters etc done. This has been going on for 6 months.
Finally got service tech to feel it this am. Service rep working with my extended warrantly company.
I have the feeling extended warranty company will try to weasel out of this. Adjuster meeting my service rep tomorrow to go over repairs. Also have turbo and intercooler/boost tubes issues going on.
Any ideas on what could be causing the transmission issues? The more info I have the better.
Thanks in advance (still love the vehicle, just need her fixed) :sick:
We are having the very exact same problem. They replaced internal transmission module but the problem exists still. What was the result of your issue?
Fast forward to June 2010 my jeep now has 56K miles. The hard shift between 1st & 2nd is still there but another problem between 3rd & 4th has presented itself. There is a hesitation between 3rd & 4th gear & the engine revs/tach spikes before it hits 4th gear. I took it to the dealer & they broke down the trans. They tell me I need a new trans. Luckily, this is covered under the 7/70K Powertrain warranty. Then they tell me that I am getting a remanufactured trans. When I ask what type of warranty comes with this "new" remanufactured trans, they tell me that there is no additional warranty - that I only get the remainder of the original 7/70K Powertrain warranty.
Questions: 1. Has anyone else had this problem/situation? 2. If so, how was it resolved & were you pleased w/the results? 3. Should I be concerned with receiving a "remanufactured" trans as opposed to a "new" trans? 4. Is it standard practice to not warranty something like this (parts &/or labor)?
Thanks for the info!