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I think you should have paid more attention in your english / grammar classes. Sounds to me like your torque convertor is acting up. But I'm not an expert on slushboxes (or anything really), I only drive manual transmissions. But that is my initial impression. A cat problem would more than likely result in not being able to build speed / rpm, or slowing down. Basically a cat problem usually causes exhaust flow to be hindered, the engine won't breathe as well and will lose power. Normally it will not jump up in rpm due to a cat problem. I think that it has got to be something related to the transmission. Torque converter would be the first thing I would have checked.
The block uses a roller lifter camshaft and incorporates a different oiling method for the rockers. In addition, the push rod angled changed that means only a Magnum head would be compatible with a Magnum block, and conversely a non-Magnum block is only compatible with a non-Magnum cylinder head. The Magnum motor incorporates some lighter materials for the piston, and a high-swirl, highly efficient cylinder head.
Unless you are on a tight budget, I would recommend rebuilding or refreshing the '94 motor. If compression is low and the '94 engine has relatively low miles and had reasonably good maintenance, the problem will probably be in the cylinder head (punky or burnt valves, and/or worn valve guides, hardened valve guide seals, etc.). Unless there's a lot of cylinder wall scoring, Mopar blocks and piston rings seldom wear enough to represent a significant loss of cylinder pressure (compression). I've seen 318 and 360 motors with 150,000 miles on them that after a head refreshing registered the full service spec. compression. Of course, it all depends on how the motor was treated.
I'd also check the catalytic converter. After a lot of miles, and especially if the motor wasn't running great for a while, the converters start to clog and cause a serious performance problem.
Good luck,
Dusty
*Engine out of tune (worn or misfiring spark plugs, bad plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, etc.), dragging brakes, dirty throttlebody, vacuum leak, bad PCV valve.
*Defective Throttle Position Sensor
*Throttle Position Valve cable out of adjustment. Throttle linkage sticking or binding. Throttle Position Pivot (at transmission) sticking or binding.
You say that you lose power when this happens. If this is an erratic thing, I don't think you've got a catalytic converter problem. If, however, you are pressing on the accelerator pedal and it seems to gradually go slower and the transmission is not slipping, you could have a partially clogged catalytic converter that is beginning to overheat, among other things.
Regards,
Dusty
Thanks.
Any of these could be the problem.
AIR FILTER Restricted or clogged air filter.
FUEL FILTER <>Clogged or dirty fuel filter
WIRESET Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s).
SPARK PLUG Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s).
PCV VALVE Plugged or damaged pcv valve.
DISTRIBUTOR CAP Loose or cracked distributor cap
AIR CHARGE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air charge sensor or air charge sensor circuit.
AIR CLEANER TEMPERATURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty air cleaner temperature sensor or air cleaner temperature sensor circuit.
BAROMETRIC PRESSURE SENSOR Damaged or faulty barometric pressure sensor or barometric pressure sensor circuit.
FUEL INJECTOR COLD START VALVE Faulty cold start valve or circuit.
FUEL INJECTOR PRESSURE REGULATOR Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit.
FUEL INJECTION GSK <>Deteriorated, or faulty throttle valve mounting gasket
IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE Damaged, loose, or faulty idle air control valve.
IDLE SPEED CONTROL ACTUATOR <>Damaged, loose, or faulty idle speed actuator.
MAP SENSOR <>Improperly connected or faulty m.a.p. sensor.
MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR Improperly connected or faulty mass air flow sensor.
THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR Faulty throttle position sensor or throttle position sensor circuit.
TIMING SET <>Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s).
FUEL PUMP Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits.
FUEL TANK Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank.
FUEL INJECTOR Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector.
EGR VALVE Clogged, dirty or improperly functioning or defective egr valve.
DISTRIBUTOR Worn, loose or incorrectly adjusted distributor.
CAMSHAFT <>Worn or scored camshaft lobes may affect proper fuel intake, compression, combustion and exhaust.
I would start with the PVC valve and EGR valve and circuit.
Hope this helps, an accept would be appreciated.
Mike Howard
I recently noticed that power steering fluid is leaking and running along the line sheathed w/ the slit corrugated cover (the other line is bare). I presume this is the outlet line from the pump, which I think lies just beneath the reservoir.
I have also been getting a Check Engine (haven't pulled the code).
I wonder if anyone has seen this. Is it likely the seal at the pump where the outlet line connects? Or is it more likely the seal where the reservoir attaches?
In searching this site, I see posts #227 & 228 that allude to the power steering pressure switch (which may be located under the reservoir). These posts also suggest a connection with the O2 sensor. I bring this up because the other day, my truck - w/o warning - began to wildly lose power for a brief spell. This now makes me wonder if there's a connection.
Any thoughts or experience w/ this are appreciated.
Recall that this line is covered by a slit, corrugated plastic sheath for protection. What are the chances that this hole was caused by "natural" (i.e., not nefarious) causes?
I think I know the answer but thought I'd put the question out there ...
:mad:
Chances are low... But there is no such thing as a perfect machine. Unless you have good reason to consider anything else, you have to assume it is simply a natural failure.
Now let's turn to the Check Engine message I mentioned. I pulled the code and it's P0132 (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage). Sensor 1 & 2 on Bank 1 read "1000V @0% S.T. fuel trim". This strikes me as a possible short.
Again I refer back to posts 227 & 228 on this forum, which point to the possibility that the p/s line leak (a mini geyser at times) may have put fluid on the O2 sensors (which I suspect are in that region of the engine area).
I had only one instance of a real sloppy power failure in the last 2 weeks and it seemed to have "recovered". If this theory is valid, I wonder if it's fair to assume the the fluid wetted O2 sensors will "dry out" and eventually go back to normal.
I have a question regarding my 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7L V-8, with 117,000 miles. A couple of months ago, I noticed while having my cruise control set at 60 mph and my rpm setting at 2, that the engine would "surge" just above 2 after going over a slight "rise" in the road (not during) and then go back to 2 on the rpm display. After slowing down and re-activating the cruise control at around 50-55 mph, I would notice as the stick arrived at 60 mph, the engine would give a quick surge slightly above 2 and go back to 2. I added STP Fuel Injector cleaner on three occasions, and it seemed to help temporarily, but it is back and occurs more frequently, even when not going over any rise in the road.
Additionally, about a month ago I noticed that when I would start my truck up in the morning, it would surge while idle then come back down, then surge again, and so on.
Could these two issues be related and what should I be looking at? I was looking online a little, and one suggestion was made regarding the idle surge as it relates to the IAC valve. Any help would be much appreciated!
You can reduce the time it takes to disenguage by gently reving the engine for 30 seconds or so before putting into gear and driving....but why waste the gasoline?
Technical details: Silicone fluid withn the thermostatic-coupling is 'stiff' and takes awhile to get thrown to the outer-edges by centripital force.
BTW: If you had use the "search" feature, you would have found several discussions about this since the 4.7L engine was put into the Dak in 2000. Many people mistakenly think that their automatic-xmission is "slipping" when cold.... as least you did not make that assumption.
on. I turn the key 4 times to get the trouble codes. The codes I have gotten
are 22, 23, and 45. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor, the throttle
position sensor, the intake ambient air temperature sensor, the Oxygen
sensor, the pcv valve , and the air intake filter. The engine is hard to
start. After the engine is hot and I kill the engine, trying to restart is
hit and miss. Sometimes it will start right up and other times it won't.
Then it will act as if it is flooded. It won't idle. I rev the engine a
little and the rpm's will finally kick up to around 1500. Then the engine
will run smooth. The codes I get now are 45 and 22. I can't understand what
is going on. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Also, is the heater/AC blower resistor located in the engine compartment on the R/H firewall on a '93 Dakota? Thanks.
No MIL light. Scanned with 2 different scan tools and found only pending misfire DTCs. However, several of the sensor outputs as read through the PCM look strange. Have factory service manual and ran diagnostics on MAP sensor, TPS, ... The sensor output voltages look correct (MAP output Vdc vs manifold pressure). Example,engine OFF, manifold pressure 29.8 in. Hg, MAP output voltage 4.5 Vdc (OK), but PCM says manifold pressure is 9.0 in. Hg (via scan tool). Same problem w/ engine idleing (true pressure 11 in. Hg, PCM says 2 in. Hg). TPS also way off (PCM says 73% open when WOT). Long term fuel trim (7%) indicates some lean mix. Reset PCM by disconnecting power for 15 min. No improvement in MAP or TPS reading. Trans not shifting up as fast - better.
Checked sensor voltages at sensors and at plugs into PCM. No differences. Also checked all splices in sensor lines (5Vdc, sensor output, sensor gnd), all OK.
Question: It sounds like the part of the PCM that reads the sensor voltages (analog-to-digital converter circuit) isn't working right. Anyone else have these kinds of symptoms? Can PCM partially degrade like this? Thanks
Recently, the engine has been sputtering at 2000 RPMs and losing power, and when I punch the accelerator to maintain power I get an occasional POP. From time to time, the Check Engine light comes on at the same time that the loss of power is experienced. As I said when I lose power the engine does tend to sputter. Eventually the engine does recover for a time.
At low idle, the Oil Pressure gauge drops to low left and the Oil Pressure light comes on. Dipstick shows that I am burning oil, however I check and maintain the oil level religiously and change oil and filter every 3000 miles.
I've noticed that Dodge trucks seem to have this low oil pressure problem. However, the loss of power seems to be something much more sinister.
Anyone have some insight before I drop 3 grand at the dealer?
Once you have corrected the problem with the TPS... the codes should "reset" themselves because the problem is no longer happening.
You *could* disconect the battery for 15-20 minutes to perform a total system "reset"... but your onboard computer would have to relearn all of your driving-habits under various situations/conditions.... this could take weeks. (And again.... would most likely NOT correct the TPS problem)
I beleive the above answers your question(s)... but you should really be asking "Why am I getting these TPS codes"... alas - you did not ask that question.