Alright boys... here's one for you... I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota V8, 5.2 4x4. I have the following problemS: It has loss of power, sputtering, stalling, backfiring, and lights come on and off and will randomly run at all. :sick: I've spent A LOT of time and money trying to find the problem with no luck yet. I've had the fuel filter and pump, gas tank, brain, relays, air fuel sensor, spark plugs, universals, crank shaft sensor, (and some others) all replaced. Those did not seem to fix my problem. Currently I am working on getting the distributor and plug wires replaced and hooked up to a scanner AGAIN. I am hoping this will help solve the problem but I am not holding my breath. Has anyone had or heard of this problem before? ANY and all advise would be greatly appreciated! I have done some research about other potential problems but not sure which to follow next. Could it be excessive oil pump drive gear wear that may cause warm engine surging, light bucking, or cold engine lack of power or burst spark knock. It said that engine noises may also be experienced with no drivability complaints. Maybe the throttle position sensor? OR the torque converter sensor? What about the Powertrain control module? PLEASE HELP..... WHAT DO I DO NEXT????? It's too late to turn back now...(Beside pull out all my hair... I do like my hair) I really want to keep my truck! I have put far too much of myself into it! Thanks, John
I have been doing some MORE searching and MAY have found something that could hopfully help some of you out there with similar problems to my own. I have found a posting from someone who seems to have been able to fix their problem. I'll post it and let you know how it worked for me.....
"Dear Bob,
I recently had a experience with my 88 Dodge Dakota truck that caused me some grief for a few days. One morning the truck wouldn't start so I check for spark which there was then I checked for fuel which there was. After some other investigating I tried to start it and it started. The next day it wouldn't start again so my son and I checked the throttle body for fuel injection which there was none. After some troubleshooting we determined that there was no 12V supply to the injectors, fuel pump or coil.
We noticed that the fuel pump would run when the key is in the run position for about one second and then it would stop which is correct. Just to make sure that the fuel pump is good we checked the fuel pressure which was at 14 lbs. which is correct. We then took apart the wiring harness to see if there was a bad connection going to the injectors and the coil. The connection was good.
The 12 volts goes through the auto shut down relay and after checking all the wiring from the computer to the relay several times we decided that maybe the relay was intermittent. So I jumped the 12V through the relay and the truck started. We bought a relay the next day and put it in that night and it worked.
The next morning Brant my son went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. That night we checked all the grounds on the engine and frame. Still no start. We replaced both battery cable connections as they were deteriorating. Then it started.
Next morning no start. Then we decided with great apprehension we bought a used computer. Installed the computer and now the fuel pump would not run at all and when I called the junk yard they said there was no warranty. We repeated our steps all over again and arrived that the computer was bad and so was the used computer so we bought a new computer. We installed the new computer and still no start.
At this point I was getting just a little tired of this problem and upset at spending $300 dollars for computers and the problem was still not fixed. I tried to think of what input to the computer would cause the computer to shut down the fuel system and coil but I couldn't think what it could be. Also another unanswered question was what caused the fuel pump to stop after about one second when the key is turned to the run position.
After looking at the shop manual some more I found a note that said that the computer will not energize the auto shut down relay if no tach pulses are seen from the computer. Then I knew what the problem was so I jumped the auto shut down relay again and checked for spark again and there was none. I removed the distributor and removed the electronic pickup to notice that the rotor under it with the six vanes for the cylinders was loose and they were rubbing on the electronic pickup which had taken out the pickup. We got another distributor complete with electronic pickup and the truck works fine.
Also I remembered a few months earlier when I was setting the timing that the marks were bouncing all over and I knew that the timing chain and sprockets were good so what was causing this. Now I know. What I learned was that fuel and spark are related and you need to check both.
Bruce Larsen Lindstrom Minn."
Again, hope that this can help at least someone. John
Got into my Dakota Club Cab 4x4 this morning and key would not move the ignition switch, worked fine the day before. Tried moving steering wheel around in locked position, no difference.
i have a 1996 dodge dakota 2.5 liter 4cylinder it has been running rough as though the fuel filter was clogged this has been going on for about two weeks, two days ago my generator light came own and my alternator was gone so i replaced the alternater and so far i havent had the same problems so i was curious if this could cause a vehicle to spit and sputter as if it was not getting fuel,
Found out at another forum a similar problem with other Chrysler vehicles and it is corrected by tapping the end of key in the ignition with a rubber mallet and the key now turns in ignition. It seems with mine, I might need to do this every time. Does anyone know what might need replaced for a permanent solution?
2002 Quadcab Lights blinking prob. Mine just started this. I hear a relay clicking at the same time. Prob more frequent when low fuel light and chime activated. The chime also started screwing up. This prob began at about same time my passenger window switch intermittently stopped working. Looking for ideas.
I had a similar problem after some "warranty" work. When the dealer had removed and replaced the stereo for some issues, when they crammed, and I mean CRAMMED the wires in behind the stereo, they had cut the insulation to a power wire and caused an intermittent short to a metal piece behind the stereo. Not only did I lose all lights and indicators, but it shut the truck off, at any speeds, and I first had it happen at highway speeds. Very scary. They refused to acknowledge they had done any wrong, knowing full well I just picked it up the day before, until I mentioned a lawyer, and promptly decided to investigate. Well, they found the cut wire, then wanted to charge me for it, as if I had cut it. The fight went on for a while. Lucky for them I had another car, or they would have had real issues. Anyway, back on topic, I would look for an electrical short. From what I understand they can be rather common in the cramped dashboard space on these trucks. Good Luck!
Gotta love those dealers...Wel interesting about your stereo. I just swaped my stereo out also just before this new prob. I wondered if it could be related. It all started when my stereo presets stopped holding. Soon after the stereo really started acting up before it went dead altogether. Right in the middle of that issue my Battery died. Boy did the truck act strange when the battery started to die. I replaced the Battery and the radio came back to life before going out a couple days later. I swapped the radio with a bone yard radio. It was not exactly the same, but the plug was the same and all features the same. I still wonder if my radio swap is related. I might try disconnecting the battery to reset everything. Thanks for the reply and good luck to you. Smitty
My brothers 92 Dodge Dakota w/V6 was running and he shut it off and got out the buzzer was going off because the keys were in the ignition. When he got back in put in the key turned it and had no power at all. The buzzer did not go off, had no power to anything lights radio nothing. I replaced the ignition switch but still nothing. Any ideas ?
My '05 Dakota 4x4 does the exact same thing. I am having the same problem with the dealers in Calgary. They can't seem to find anything wrong with it (no codes). I lose all electrical (gu ages, radio, door locks, & lights), but only for a split second. However I have noticed it only occurs when my gas gauge is below 1/2 a tank. When the guage is down, somedays it will do it only once on a 20 mintue drive and has happened as much as 5 or 6 times.
I had accepted the fact that it would never go away. I wonder if the previous owner had done any home wiring. The dealer says there is no record of this happening prior to when I began bringing the truck in in November. Unfortunately, my warranty expired, before I even bought the truck last year.
I have a 2001 Dakota Quad with 100,000 miles on it. Twice in the last week I was driving at medium speeds and the radio lost power. At the same time the radio went dead the turn signal would not work/blink. Also believe heater/air conditioner might of shut down (not sure). The truck has a new battery (6 months old) and I replaced all the basic fuses a month ago. When I stop the truck and then restart everything then comes back on as if normal. I assume I have a short some where in the electrical system buy have no idea how to located it. Has anyone had a similar electrical problem and is it costly to have it checked out? Dodge Dakotas supposedly have poor electrical systems, and I'm starting to wonder if the problem could spread to other electrical areas of the truck. I did notice my interior dome lights worked when I lost radio/turn signals. Guess I should check head lights, wind shield wipers etc., during next electrical cut off.
Any suggestions what action to take? Someone mentioned going to Walmart and buying a plug in device to check the voltage (while driving) via the cigerrete lighter? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
The defrost action on my side rearvision mirrors isn't functioning. There are no blown fuses in my fuse rack on the driver's side of the dash board. Are there any resistors that conceivable could have failed?? If so, Where would they be located?
my problem is when powered up to 2500rpms it drops back to 2000 rpms back and forth and sometimes dies as a result. thought it was tranny but now not so sure. was told maybe computer. check engine light is now on. looked under hood and found breather box lid not properly secured but that seems like a stretch.truck has 92000 miles on it , and has been very reliable til this. thank you for any advice
Did you ever find out what caused the problem? I have the same problem. I replaced the relay and found that it was not the problem. A tech at a dealership advised that I replace the headlight switch. I changed that out and the problem is still there. Any thing you can add?
Hi , I have a 90' dodge dakota 4 cyl. pickup. going 50 miles an hour and just stops running. No spark plug fire. No spark from coil center line. Distributor coupler disconnect - cross lines 2 an 3 and no spark from coil. Coil is good. check for open in lines 2 and 3, good to comp. Negative line from computer to coil is positive charge 12 volt when ignition is on, No charge on the positive line to the coil. When ignition is turned on a charge of voltage is measured in meter at distributor coupler line number 1 orange- then goes away. Why no spark? Why positive charge on negative line to Coil? Why does charge on line 1 go away? Coil good. Lines clear. Battery good 12 volt. Fuel pump good with fuel. fuses good. tires have air :-) Today
i have a 2004 Dakota Quad Cab 4wd and i was going through a concrete low water crossing when it bottomed out and the dash lights when out.. i checked every fuse in the driver side dash panel and everyone under the hood... but the gauge lights and the air conditioner knob lights wont come on.. anyone with a good answer would be greatly appreciated.. :confuse:
I have a 1994 Dodge Dakota with 160000 miles. One evening, the headlights failed as I was driving home, and I had to use the high beams, though I had to pull back on the dimmer switch manually (for over 10 miles.) As soon as I let go of the switch, the highbeams went off, and they would not stay on by themselves The parking lights and all others are fine. My mechanic said it was likely the turn signal/dimmer switch assembly on the steering column was bad. I replaced it myself, but it did no good. The headlight switch was replaced several months ago when I had an earlier problem so it is ruled out for the time being. I'm convinced that it's a fuse or relay problem under the hood. All of the fuses in the cab are fine. The fuse box or PDC (?) on the drivers side next to the battery contains several large square fuses, but I have no way of testing them, and don't know what all of them are as I have no owner's manual.
Please email me at KC8WJG@aol.com with any help or relevant comments.
I had same prob with my 2006 Dakota this am. Key does not turn (like it's the wrong key!) I hope the "mallet" suggestion works. This truck is new (only 10,000 mi)
I saw another post where a guy had a locksmith fix it...twice!
I ended up taking the ignition lock out, cleaning it and lubing it up, but it began doing the same thing in a few days. Finally broke down and bought a new ignition lock cylinder from carlocksandkeys.com for around $40, very quick turn around with 2 day shipping. Easy replacement on my '01 Dakota, now I have 2 different keys, one for door and one for ignition, not big deal with door remotes.
After reading @ the "mallet solution", I just pushed the key with a little more force into the lock and turned it normally. It turned. Subsequently the lock works fine.
But I'll make a note of carlocksandkeys.com just in case.
I have a 97 conventional cab Dakota with a V-6 Engine. This past winter I have noted that the interior lights stay on even when the engine is started. They have started staying on longer and longer now and I have had to take the bulbs out. I suspect it may be a door jam switch. Has anyone else had this problem?
I have a 1990 dakota. Only one of the instrument lights work. The turn signal indicators, and all the "idiot" lights on the bottom of cluster do not work. Also the high beam indicator does not work.
Today I noticed that my horn also didn't work. 2001 Quad cab. I also love my truck, with 91k miles. I haven't noticed anyother electical problems, the horn beeps with the remote lock. When I touch the horn/aibag pad it seems like the center pad is not as hard to press, seems like something is missing? It presses in very easy where before, it took fire presure to blow the horn? Could be me,,,,,,,,,, Strange, I also just got my truck back from dealer to have the water pump replaced. Mick
Well, the fact that you're getting an Air Bag lamp illumination AND the horn doesn't work, my first suspect is the clockspring. Could be a faulty horn relay. Your dealer should be able to quickly determine the problem.
What do I need to know when replacing the steering wheel clock spring? Especially removing the airbag and replacing? Main thing diconnect the battery, right? Special tools? My horn does not work.
My 2000 Dodge Dakota frequently will not charge battery on startup, or will stop charging while driving. I've tried replacing alternator, pcm, battery & temperature sensor, and problem remains the same. Any suggestions?
You asked for suggestions.... instead of just blindly replacing things, perhaps using a DVM (Digital Volt Meter) to troubleshoot and isolate the problem may be a better way to go. A charging system is pretty simple to troubleshoot.
I beleive that the regulator is imbedded in the PCM (engine computer) and it must be properly grounded to perform its task. On my 2000 Dak, pulled the screw to EVERY ground wire and filed the paint off of the body to ensure a good solid connection to ground.
Also, I have found that some rebuilt alternators are junk. In my experience, it is better to pay a bit more for a quality, tested replacement instead of installing the cheapest one. BEWARE of the units which claim a "lifetime warantee", you may be replacing it many times over your lifetime because they are the worst culprits.
On the surface, the "lifetime warantee" sounds like a good deal.... but instead, the rebuilders KNOW that they tend to be junk so they gladly replace them as you spend your lifetime doing the labor to replace them.
I have a 01 Dakota and have recently developed a problem with a dash beep. It is the same sort of beep as if your gas light came on, however there are no lights on the dash indicating a problem. The truck runs fine, but the beeping is driving me insane. The beep only occurs, however, when the truck is rolling. When I stop at a stop sign or a red light it stops, even while it is still in drive. It is an Automatic Quad Cab 4x4 if it helps. I have traced the beeping to a box that I was told by the dealer was time and alarm module under the kick panel on the driver's side. The dealer also told me the part cost was around $265, so I would like to get around replacing it if possible. For the time being I have a piece of tape over the opening of the box to make the beeping a little more bearable, but nonetheless it is still driving me crazy. If anyone could help me before I drive the thing off in the ocean and make a reef out of it that would be great.
I have a 2000 Dakota and over the last several months the lights on my dash (speedometer, oil gauge, gear indicator, etc.) have burnt out. I have replaced the fuse twice, most recently this past sat night. A couple of months ago, I noticed that the left turn blinker inside the truck does not flash, although the turn signal itself works fine.
My b-in-law seems to think it might be my dimmer switch. A guy at Checkers thought it could be that or an electrical problem. Any ideas and how to best fix?
The drivers side power window quit working. The left switch will work the passenger window but the switch for the left window doesnt work. The dealer says that the switches never go, that it is something else inside the door causing the problem. Any ideas?
ok when ever i turn the parking lights or head lights on my reverse lights come on also and when ever i put the truck in reverse the dash lights come on i check for loose or broken and even pinched wires and fornd nothing please help I have a 2003 dodge dakota sxt 3.9 4x4 auto trans extended cab
Your description sure sounds like a bad ground in the rear light harness.
When you put your truck into reverse, the electricity cannot "find" a good ground so the current flows "backwards" into other parts of the electrical system.
(The above is a laymans description of what us electronics experts call a ground-loop problem.)
Use a DVM to troubleshoot and isolate the problem.
When I turn on the headlight switch, dash lights go out, tach and speedometer go to 0, all gages go to full scale and high beam and the two turn signal lights are illuminated. Are there any ideas??
I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota that just developed an electrical problem. From the drivers side control panel none of the power windows work. Neither does the power door lock. The windows do not work from any door control panel. The door locks do work from the passenger side panel. I checked the fuse (number 13) but it was OK. Any ideas? Thanks.
For the life of me, I dont know. I have not been having any problems in weeks. I have gone thru the fuses and cleaned all of the grounds in the engine compartment. So I dont know.
I found the problem. I loosened the door panel and it looked like the connector to the power window panel was ok, so I put it back. After getting nowhere with the problem, I took the door panel off and the connector was loose and will not lock on, so I used a little duct tape and it works fine. Thanks.
I have a 2001 Dodge Dakota and recently my son pulled a trailer that had a short in the wiring. The headlights won't work, the electric door fob and locks won't work, the headlights glow very dimly when we turn the engine off and the intermittent wiper function won't work. Kinda weird huh?
I'm afraid the short in the trailer wiring has caused some malfunctions in the wiring and or computer.
My 2002 Dakota radio is doing the same thing and draining the battery over night. Replaced the battery and problem still presist. Removed the fuses for the radio which stopped the problem, but have no radio. Anyone with a solution?
After the cruise control stopped functioning I had the dealer replace the clockspring. all is well again. I ordered a clockspring on line for $60.00 delivered. The dealer wanted $99.00 for one.
I have a 2001 dakota 5.9 xcab with a very similar problem. Hazards come on with no problems all the time, blinkers would flash once or twice and then turn off but eventually they stopped working altogether UNLESS the key is in accessory position then they work just fine. I pulled the plug on multi switch and checked the pins 11, 5, and 3. 11being hazards 5 and 3 being right and left blinkers, when the key is on the "on" position or the truck is running the hazards work but the blinkers get no power, when the key is in accessory position hazards work and blinkers work fine. At first I thought it was the flasher but it obviously works because the lights flash in acc. All relays are good as well as fuses and i've checked grounds. To me it still seems likely that it's a grounding issue, like when the truck's off there's enough grounding to complete the circuit but when the truck is on the extra voltage produced is more than it can ground and the circuit isn't completed. I am however no expert so i'm lost as to what to do now and gaining frustration, any ideas?
lost both power windows and blower motor? fuses are fine both in fuse box and (pds?)under hood fuses, breakers what have you. no power when testing with test light to the fuse positions 1,and 2. which are the blower motor and windows ?
I HAVE A SIMILAR PROBLEM... EXCEPT IT BEEPS WHETHER OR NOT I AM MOVING. I THOUGHT IT MAY HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH MY TRANSMISSION SLIPPING IN AND OUT OF OVERDRIVE AT 45-60 MPH, BUT AFTER READING OTHER POSTS, IT SOUNDS AS IF THAT IS A DIFFERENT PROBLEM. WHICH LEADS ME TO BELIEVE THE PROBLEM IS ELECTRICAL. RECENTLY MY RIGHT BLINKER BLINKS AS IF A BULB IS BLOWN, BUT A CHECK OF THE LIGHTS SHOWS ALL IS WELL. I DON'T GET IT... ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Comments
I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota V8, 5.2 4x4.
I have the following problemS:
It has loss of power, sputtering, stalling, backfiring, and lights come on and off and will randomly run at all. :sick:
I've spent A LOT of time and money trying to find the problem with no luck yet. I've had the fuel filter and pump, gas tank, brain, relays, air fuel sensor, spark plugs, universals, crank shaft sensor, (and some others) all replaced. Those did not seem to fix my problem.
Currently I am working on getting the distributor and plug wires replaced and hooked up to a scanner AGAIN. I am hoping this will help solve the problem but I am not holding my breath. Has anyone had or heard of this problem before? ANY and all advise would be greatly appreciated!
I have done some research about other potential problems but not sure which to follow next. Could it be excessive oil pump drive gear wear that may cause warm engine surging, light bucking, or cold engine lack of power or burst spark knock. It said that engine noises may also be experienced with no drivability complaints. Maybe the throttle position sensor? OR the torque converter sensor? What about the Powertrain control module? PLEASE HELP..... WHAT DO I DO NEXT????? It's too late to turn back now...(Beside pull out all my hair... I do like my hair) I really want to keep my truck! I have put far too much of myself into it!
Thanks, John
"Dear Bob,
I recently had a experience with my 88 Dodge Dakota truck that caused me some grief for a few days. One morning the truck wouldn't start so I check for spark which there was then I checked for fuel which there was. After some other investigating I tried to start it and it started. The next day it wouldn't start again so my son and I checked the throttle body for fuel injection which there was none. After some troubleshooting we determined that there was no 12V supply to the injectors, fuel pump or coil.
We noticed that the fuel pump would run when the key is in the run position for about one second and then it would stop which is correct. Just to make sure that the fuel pump is good we checked the fuel pressure which was at 14 lbs. which is correct. We then took apart the wiring harness to see if there was a bad connection going to the injectors and the coil. The connection was good.
The 12 volts goes through the auto shut down relay and after checking all the wiring from the computer to the relay several times we decided that maybe the relay was intermittent. So I jumped the 12V through the relay and the truck started. We bought a relay the next day and put it in that night and it worked.
The next morning Brant my son went out to start the truck and it wouldn't start. That night we checked all the grounds on the engine and frame. Still no start. We replaced both battery cable connections as they were deteriorating. Then it started.
Next morning no start. Then we decided with great apprehension we bought a used computer. Installed the computer and now the fuel pump would not run at all and when I called the junk yard they said there was no warranty. We repeated our steps all over again and arrived that the computer was bad and so was the used computer so we bought a new computer. We installed the new computer and still no start.
At this point I was getting just a little tired of this problem and upset at spending $300 dollars for computers and the problem was still not fixed. I tried to think of what input to the computer would cause the computer to shut down the fuel system and coil but I couldn't think what it could be. Also another unanswered question was what caused the fuel pump to stop after about one second when the key is turned to the run position.
After looking at the shop manual some more I found a note that said that the computer will not energize the auto shut down relay if no tach pulses are seen from the computer. Then I knew what the problem was so I jumped the auto shut down relay again and checked for spark again and there was none. I removed the distributor and removed the electronic pickup to notice that the rotor under it with the six vanes for the cylinders was loose and they were rubbing on the electronic pickup which had taken out the pickup. We got another distributor complete with electronic pickup and the truck works fine.
Also I remembered a few months earlier when I was setting the timing that the marks were bouncing all over and I knew that the timing chain and sprockets were good so what was causing this. Now I know. What I learned was that fuel and spark are related and you need to check both.
Bruce Larsen Lindstrom Minn."
Again, hope that this can help at least someone.
John
Anyway, back on topic, I would look for an electrical short. From what I understand they can be rather common in the cramped dashboard space on these trucks.
Good Luck!
Smitty
My '05 Dakota 4x4 does the exact same thing. I am having the same problem with the dealers in Calgary. They can't seem to find anything wrong with it (no codes). I lose all electrical (gu ages, radio, door locks, & lights), but only for a split second. However I have noticed it only occurs when my gas gauge is below 1/2 a tank. When the guage is down, somedays it will do it only once on a 20 mintue drive and has happened as much as 5 or 6 times.
I had accepted the fact that it would never go away. I wonder if the previous owner had done any home wiring. The dealer says there is no record of this happening prior to when I began bringing the truck in in November. Unfortunately, my warranty expired, before I even bought the truck last year.
Any suggestions what action to take? Someone mentioned going to Walmart and buying a plug in device to check the voltage (while driving) via the cigerrete lighter? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Did you ever find out what caused the problem? I have the same problem. I replaced the relay and found that it was not the problem. A tech at a dealership advised that I replace the headlight switch. I changed that out and the problem is still there. Any thing you can add?
Thanks,
cm2381
did the light switch work? I replaced mine and I still have the problem.
Did the CTM fix your problem? I'm having the same symptoms.
Chris
Why no spark?
Why positive charge on negative line to Coil?
Why does charge on line 1 go away?
Coil good.
Lines clear.
Battery good 12 volt.
Fuel pump good with fuel.
fuses good.
tires have air :-) Today
Please email me at KC8WJG@aol.com with any help or relevant comments.
kcram - Pickups Host
Key does not turn (like it's the wrong key!)
I hope the "mallet" suggestion works.
This truck is new (only 10,000 mi)
I saw another post where a guy had a locksmith fix it...twice!
into the lock and turned it normally. It turned. Subsequently the lock works fine.
But I'll make a note of carlocksandkeys.com just in case.
Thanks in advance
Where do I look? The fuses are all good....
with 91k miles. I haven't noticed anyother electical problems, the horn beeps with
the remote lock.
When I touch the horn/aibag pad it seems like the center pad is not as hard to press,
seems like something is missing? It presses in very easy where before, it took
fire presure to blow the horn? Could be me,,,,,,,,,,
Strange, I also just got my truck back from dealer to have the water pump replaced.
Mick
Good luck,
Dusty
Especially removing the airbag and replacing? Main thing diconnect the battery, right? Special tools?
My horn does not work.
I beleive that the regulator is imbedded in the PCM (engine computer) and it must be properly grounded to perform its task.
On my 2000 Dak, pulled the screw to EVERY ground wire and filed the paint off of the body to ensure a good solid connection to ground.
Also, I have found that some rebuilt alternators are junk. In my experience, it is better to pay a bit more for a quality, tested replacement instead of installing the cheapest one. BEWARE of the units which claim a "lifetime warantee", you may be replacing it many times over your lifetime because they are the worst culprits.
On the surface, the "lifetime warantee" sounds like a good deal.... but instead, the rebuilders KNOW that they tend to be junk so they gladly replace them as you spend your lifetime doing the labor to replace them.
My b-in-law seems to think it might be my dimmer switch. A guy at Checkers thought it could be that or an electrical problem. Any ideas and how to best fix?
When you put your truck into reverse, the electricity cannot "find" a good ground so the current flows "backwards" into other parts of the electrical system.
(The above is a laymans description of what us electronics experts call a ground-loop problem.)
Use a DVM to troubleshoot and isolate the problem.
Trying to fix electrical problems without actually MEASURING the voltage and continuity of the circuits is guessing.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Thanks.
I'm afraid the short in the trailer wiring has caused some malfunctions in the wiring and or computer.
Any ideas?
all is well again.
I ordered a clockspring on line for $60.00 delivered. The dealer wanted $99.00 for one.